Washing DMC before use
M.T.
I am using only navy blue dmc thread for the design. Should I prewash the
threads and/or the material. This will be a useable product and will
undoubtedly be laundered at some point. I'd hate for the threads to run on
the creamy fabric. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Holly
mte...@cybergate.org
please reply to me directly as I don't get to read this newsgroup often.
Thanks.
Lynn
>I am making an afghan on the 5" squares afghan cloth and it's a cream
>color. I am using only navy blue dmc thread for the design. Should I
>prewash the threads and/or the material. This will be a useable product
>and will undoubtedly be laundered at some point. I'd hate for the threads
>to run on the creamy fabric. Any suggestions?
>
I do shirts a lot, although not the color combo you mention. I've never
pre-washed floss, nor have I ever had anything run. However - do NOT use
Woolite - I don't imagine it would hurt to wash. Might just keep the
stress level down (yours, not the floss!)
Lynn
EMartin760
I have never had any problems with DMC bleeding either...DMC is colorfast, so
it is not supposed to run. You shouldn't have any problems.
Erica
PBSievert
CaponRouge
wrote:
I've never had a problem with my Anchor floss running, although i have
had some of the richer DMC colors run. I've never even had a problem
with Anchor reds, dark colors, black, or anything like that.
Everything seems quite colorfast and I wash in Orvus, so anything that
might potentially run seems to be a moot point. I am gradually
switching my stash from DMC to Anchor.
wisn...@teleport.com
had black run in either. After having two rather large projects
ruined by floss running, I don't take chances anymore and prewash all
dark colors of any brand of floss.
FWIW
Marsha
snj
depends how you wash it.
Jane
Leigh Harris
>I am making an afghan on the 5" squares afghan cloth and it's a cream color.
>I am using only navy blue dmc thread for the design. Should I prewash the
>threads and/or the material. This will be a useable product and will
>undoubtedly be laundered at some point. I'd hate for the threads to run on
>the creamy fabric. Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Holly
I've always heard that DMC was colourfast. That was my experience too,
until last week. I was stitching on a white towel with a design that
only had a little dark blue 797. After I had wet the waste canvas and
removed it, I discovered to my horror that my completed towel had two
large smudges of blue below the design! It did come off with cold
water and Sard Wonder Soap, but it was certainly a worry to see it
there.
It's also happening on another design using lots of 797 and 798. Where
my hands rub against it to go underneath, there is all this blue
smudging, and that is before I've wet it. Has anyone ever had this
sort of problem before?
It's also transferring onto my Klipfast frame (like a Qsnap) and a bit
rubbed off onto some aida I put into the frame. Can I bleach the frame
without leaving a bleach residue, or whatever, that would damage
future fabrics placed into it?
Leigh
Perth, Australia
NOTE: To obtain true e-mail address, substitute "spam" with "BMH" and
"blackhole" with "bigpond".
Kim Brown
<Snipped story about DMC 797 and 798 running on fabric being worked>
>
> It did come off with cold water and Sard Wonder Soap, but it was
> certainly a worry to see it there.
Leigh, be *careful* with the Sard! DDs baby bibs (which I worked mostly
in DMC 699 and 700 greens) ran like mad when I Sarded them! Extended
rinsing ensured there were no big stains, but you can still see a faint
green hue in the body of the fabric. I've only ever had DMC run when it
was washed with Sard, so use it sparingly. You might try 'Run Away',
which is a product made expressly for this purpose, but it's a pretty
powerful chemical (judging by its incredibly awful odour) and may be too
severe for needlework. It might strip *all* the colour out and leave you
with a delightful whitework piece! You'd need to experiment.
> It's also transferring onto my Klipfast frame (like a Qsnap) and a bit
> rubbed off onto some aida I put into the frame. Can I bleach the frame
> without leaving a bleach residue, or whatever, that would damage
> future fabrics placed into it?
I'd be inclined to use something like Spray'n'Wipe and then soak the
plastic in plain water for a while in the sun. Sunshine ought to get rid
of all trace of chlorine bleach, but as always, be careful (I'm not a
fan of bleaching, because the results are usually unpredictable).
That's really bad luck - let us know how you get on, won't you?
>
> Leigh
> Perth, Australia
>
--
Trish {|:OI}
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Me
think I remember hearing that it also made those colors changed not as
colorfast. Anyone else know anything about this?
Leigh Harris wrote:
> On Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:28:23 GMT, mte...@cybergate.org (M.T.) wrote:
>
> >I am making an afghan on the 5" squares afghan cloth and it's a cream color.
> >I am using only navy blue dmc thread for the design. Should I prewash the
> >threads and/or the material. This will be a useable product and will
> >undoubtedly be laundered at some point. I'd hate for the threads to run on
> >the creamy fabric. Any suggestions?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Holly
>
> I've always heard that DMC was colourfast. That was my experience too,
> until last week. I was stitching on a white towel with a design that
> only had a little dark blue 797. After I had wet the waste canvas and
> removed it, I discovered to my horror that my completed towel had two
> large smudges of blue below the design! It did come off with cold
> water and Sard Wonder Soap, but it was certainly a worry to see it
> there.
>
> It's also happening on another design using lots of 797 and 798. Where
> my hands rub against it to go underneath, there is all this blue
> smudging, and that is before I've wet it. Has anyone ever had this
> sort of problem before?
>
> It's also transferring onto my Klipfast frame (like a Qsnap) and a bit
> rubbed off onto some aida I put into the frame. Can I bleach the frame
> without leaving a bleach residue, or whatever, that would damage
> future fabrics placed into it?
>
Judith Miller
Me <xtit...@iname.com> wrote in article
<6u5ne8$lki$1...@news-1.news.gte.net>...
: Didn't DMC change some of their colors recently to be more
enviromental? I
: think I remember hearing that it also made those colors changed not as
: colorfast. Anyone else know anything about this?
Why not send this question in email to DMC and see what they say?
www.dmc-usa.com. You might want to ask them to post their response here.
--
Judith Miller
Madison, WI
Matt & Kathy Hoover
says...
>
> I've always heard that DMC was colourfast. That was my experience too,
> until last week. I was stitching on a white towel with a design that
> only had a little dark blue 797. After I had wet the waste canvas and
> removed it, I discovered to my horror that my completed towel had two
> large smudges of blue below the design! It did come off with cold
> water and Sard Wonder Soap, but it was certainly a worry to see it
> there.
>
> Perth, Australia
Just a note to say, it isn't necissary to wet 'waste canvas' in
order to remove it...it will pull nicely wihtout being wet...I
remove all the thread from the sides first (frays easily) and
then pull each SINGLE thread out horizontally. Don't pull in
pairs as that won't work as well. If you have not split any of
the waste canvas threads with a too sharp needle, then they
should strip right out without wetting, thus avoiding the stain
process (at least till you wash it!) Sometimes a pair of tweezers
helps to get a grip on the shorter threads.
Kathy
ellice
*snip*
> pre-washed floss, nor have I ever had anything run. However - do NOT use
> Woolite - I don't imagine it would hurt to wash. Might just keep the
> stress level down (yours, not the floss!)
Chiming in here - a friend who owned a terrific yarn shop emphasized
this to me. Evidently Woolite works well in cold water, but is very
harsh with the detergent in it, so they never, ever used it on fine
woolens or embroidery. It does do a great job as cold-water wash on
stinky hockey gear - which probably highlights why not to use it on your
precious needlework ;^)
ciao,
ellice
Leigh Harris
<c940...@alinga.newcastle.edu.au> wrote:
><Snipped story about DMC 797 and 798 running on fabric being worked>
>>
>> It did come off with cold water and Sard Wonder Soap, but it was
>> certainly a worry to see it there.
>
>Leigh, be *careful* with the Sard! DDs baby bibs (which I worked mostly
>in DMC 699 and 700 greens) ran like mad when I Sarded them! Extended
>rinsing ensured there were no big stains, but you can still see a faint
>green hue in the body of the fabric. I've only ever had DMC run when it
>was washed with Sard, so use it sparingly
Thanks Trish. I'll keep that in mind! The thing is, I didn't wash the
stitched bit with the Sard, but just the smudges below it. I know Sard
will get out anything, so that's why I went for it. I've got some
Orvus which I'll use when I first wash the stitching on the towel,
then I'll chuck it in the machine with ordinary detergent as that is
what it'll have to stand up to with normal use.
>. You might try 'Run Away',
>which is a product made expressly for this purpose, but it's a pretty
>powerful chemical (judging by its incredibly awful odour) and may be too
>severe for needlework. It might strip *all* the colour out and leave you
>with a delightful whitework piece! You'd need to experiment.
Sounds scary!
>That's really bad luck - let us know how you get on, won't you?
>Trish {|:OI}
Sure will. I better get back to my stitching then! Besides, it's a
gift that will be needed soon. Deadlines and all that. Thanks for your
help.
Me
Well, I did so, and received the following response.
Thank you for your interest in DMC. In early 1995, because of
changes in envirnomental regulations, we shifted our gray color
family. Our colors continue to be colorfast, and this shift did not
affect the colorfastness of DMC Embroidery Floss.
Feel free to post this answer on the RCTN newsgroup, and please let
me know if you have any additional questions.
Jill Reed Siroty
DMC
____
The DMC Corporation
Bmciowa
>It does do a great job as cold-water wash on
>stinky hockey gear
Thanks Ellice!
That is *very* useful information!
X/USA/H+/Y1.5/2C/XTDP/HQ/:-D~/G/W+/D/M/B/b/R-/S/K-/E/C/J/none,Anne Rice, chips
and salsa
Leigh Harris
Hoover) propounded:
>Just a note to say, it isn't necissary to wet 'waste canvas' in
>order to remove it...it will pull nicely wihtout being wet...I
>remove all the thread from the sides first (frays easily) and
>then pull each SINGLE thread out horizontally. Don't pull in
>pairs as that won't work as well. If you have not split any of
>the waste canvas threads with a too sharp needle, then they
>should strip right out without wetting, thus avoiding the stain
>process (at least till you wash it!) Sometimes a pair of tweezers
>helps to get a grip on the shorter threads.
>
>Kathy
Kathy, you must have much more strength than I do! I've tried pulling
it out dry (before I knew I was supposed to wet it) and it's not easy.
I had sore arms for days. I have always used the tweezers because I
can hardly grip it at all otherwise. I like someone's suggestion of
pliers.
Was it on a t-shirt or something that you pulled it from? I think that
may make a difference. I'm working on towels so there's a lot more
thickness as well as the little loops of towelling that may get in the
way and grip.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Kim Brown
>
> > On Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:22:16 -0400, mhoo...@gte.net (Matt & Kathy
> >Hoover) propounded:
> >
> >Just a note to say, it isn't necissary to wet 'waste canvas' in
> >order to remove it...
<snip>
> >Kathy
<snip>
> ... and it's not easy. I had sore arms for days.
<snip>
> Leigh
> Perth, Australia
Kath, there must be some secret to the way the dry pulling of WC is
done: I also pull it 'dry' and have no trouble, *providing* I haven't
pierced it with my needle, as you mention. I find that after I get that
first stubborn thread out, it's a simple (but boring) task to get the
rest. Leigh, I'll let you know if there's a 'secret' to all this if I
ever figure it out :-)
Mike & June Huber
and found that the increased friction against the wet floss plus the
tendency of the waste threads to break when wet made it virtually
impossible to pull.
My solution was to wash the shirt with the waste threads in place. (After
removing all the threads not held down by stitching--picture your washer or
dryer full of loose threads otherwise.) The washing took out all the sizing
from the waste canvas and the clean, dry threads were relatively easy to
pull out.
Ease of pulling may also be related to what brand of waste canvas you use.
Mine may have been poor quality. It was an old piece from my stash.
June in Houston
Kim Brown wrote:
> Leigh Harris wrote:
> >
> > > On Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:22:16 -0400, mhoo...@gte.net (Matt & Kathy
> > >Hoover) propounded:
> > >
> > >Just a note to say, it isn't necissary to wet 'waste canvas' in
> > >order to remove it...
>