What needles to use for cross-stitch/thread count?
Marina
seen references to different size needles to use for different thread
counts. Is there a set of guidelines for needle sizes for thread counts? I
have always either used the needle in the kit or selected a needle that fit
the floss and the project.
Also, are there some brands or types of needles that are better or worse
than others?
regards,
Marina
Butterfly
"Marina" <mar...@spamalertsonic.net> wrote:
> Also, are there some brands or types of needles that are better or worse
> than others?
I never noticed any difference between brands of tapestry needles until
I tried the PieceMaker brand. There was something about that needle that
makes it feel very good when I use it. I can't put my finger on just
what it is that gives it that quality. It seems to glide smoothly
through the fabric, and the metal feels just right. Weird, huh? I hope
it's just not my imagination. :-)
Probably the best thing to do is try several different brands. You might
find one you like better than others too.
I've been using the size 24 and 26 tapestry needles for my cross-stitch
on 14-count adia or 25-count lugana.
I bought the PieceMaker needles both online from the Nordic Needle, and
in-person at the PieceMakers store in Costa Mesa.
Dianne Lewandowski
> I have always either used the needle in the kit or selected a needle that fit
> the floss and the project.
That's the right thing to do. The fiber should fit comfortably in the
eye. That doesn't mean it will be easy to thread. But once threaded,
it moves about freely.
When working on ordinary grounds, the needle should be fat enough to
allow a hole for the eye and thread just big enough so that it closes up
after the stitch. Now, that's the "rule" often touted. But in my own
experience, I've never seen fabric that didn't close up around the
stitch. Leather and some man-made suedes are possible exceptions. When
working with silk ribbon, very large needles are used on very delicate
grounds. Doesn't bother the fabric at all.
On the other hand, if the needle isn't fat enough to create a decent
hole, it can cause abrasion on the fiber that is threaded through it.
Much of this is just experimenting. And also what you get used to. If
things aren't going smoothly, sometimes changing needle sizes or types
will solve a problem.
Dianne
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.
I found the crafts stores needles to be too hit and miss, regardless
of what was written on the package. The eyes may all look alike, but
from a single package of 5, you may have 2 sharps, 2 blunts, and a
real flat top.
I was at a Singer sewing center a couple of years ago and found a
large long eyed needle, marked size 22 but is closer to a 24, that had
a very fine ball point tip, and they were all uniform in size. The
needles feel creamy in your hand, like the finest flatware does when
eating with it, and floss does not snag or catch at the ends of the
loop. I bought 2 packages that day, the next day I went back and
cleaned out their entire stock and still sometimes wish I had more.
TTUL
Gary
MarieK in Pa
Marie in Pa
"Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr." <ClassicHa...@bbs.galilei.com.nospam> wrote
in message news:3e3e96a3...@news.galilei.com...
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.
Hmmmmmmmmm. I remember the packages had a green boxed area at the
top, and most below that was red. Which I think was Singer's style
packaging at that time.
Ironically, the local Singer stores were better known for their
selection of 45rpm records. They always had the top hits when
everyone else was sold out or couldn't get them.
I often wonder how many record buyers eventually became stitchers,
just from being in a Singer store so often and seeing all the sewing
merchandise they carried.
I know I picked up a lot of things I didn't really need, just because
I was there! I have enough of those black design wheels to choke a
horse, for both the drop in Golden Singer and for the add-on
attachment that does the same thing for the blue faced Silver Singer.
I have three Singer machines who's pedals are always going south on
me, and none of them are interchangeable. Why?
My very best all time favorite needles were made by Milwards Needles
in England, they even carried packages of needles marked 'Betweens'
which were perfect, not to sharp, not to blunt, nowdays I think they
call them ball point needles. The only reason I quit buying Milwards
Needles was because they called all of their needles 'Large Eye
Needles' even if you couldn't see the eye in a microscope. To me,
Large Eye means I can drive 6 strands of floss through the eye without
a threader, hi hi.
The good ole days, 20 needles (under size 10) for 10 cents.
TTUL
Gary
Annasplace
24 is good, for 16/32 or 18/36 a 26 is good. I have a tendency to use 26 for
almost all counts including 20/40, although a 28 would work on that too.
Anna
Sandra
Pulled thread – Tapestry,
Laid work – Sharps,
Couching – Sharps.
"Use a needle large enough to make a hole for the thread to pass without abrasion".
Kreinik Thread Suggested Needle
1/8" Ribbon Tapestry # 18/20
1/16" Ribbon Tapestry # 22/24
Heavy (#32) Braid Tapestry # 18
Medium (#16) Braid Tapestry # 20/22
Tapestry (#12) Braid Tapestry # 20/22
Fine (#8) Braid Tapestry # 22/24
Very Fine (#4) Braid Tapestry # 22/24, Sharps #3
Blending Filament Tapestry # 22/24/26/28
Cord Tapestry # 24/26/28
Cable Tapestry # 22
Japan #1 Tapestry # 24/26/28
Japan #2 Tapestry # 20/22
Japan #7 Tapestry # 20/22
Ombre Tapestry # 22/24
Silk Mori Tapestry # 22/24/26/28, Sharps #3/5/10
Silk Serica Tapestry # 22/24, Sharps # 2/3
Silk Bella Tapestry # 26/28, Sharps # 8/10
DMC Thread Suggested Needle
Perle Cotton #12 Tapestry # 22/24, Sharps #5
Stranded Cotton Tapestry # 22/24/26/28, Sharps #3/5/10
Hope this helps
Sandra
http://needleandframe.com