Lowery stand clamp question
Maria
My first problem was not tightening the clamp down far enough. Easily
fixed. Now on to the second problem which may not be so easily fixed.
I was working a long narrow project, 8 by 17 inch Q snaps, using the
side clamp.
It was comfortable working only the bottom of the project. I worked the
top without having in the stand. Anytime I had to end threads or check
the back, I had to take the project off the clamp. I usually use scroll
rods or smaller Q snapped project so I haven't had this problem before.
I don't particularly want to work projects sideways loaded from the ends
though I have some other scrolled projects that are worked like that
(like Dutch Beauty, I didn't have scrolls long enough for the width, at
the time I started it). I work on them, but not eagerly. I have to
re-orient my thinking to do it. This summer I just haven't been up to
that.
I would like to continue to have the option of working long narrow Q'd
projects. I do this especially when I want to bead as I go.
Would the corner clamp solve the problem? I just can't picture how the
corner clamp works in flipping a project.
--
maria from MA
remove the munge to reply
Pat Porter
lever joining tha clamp to the top of the "L" bar and just flip in the
normal way, surely. I have the Lowery and can`t see a problem at all. I
have the corner clamp which is no problem - it should be even easier with
the side clamp, I should think.
Pat P.
"Maria" <ma_st...@yahoomunge.com> wrote in message
news:UMfc7.6955$lr2.2...@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net...
Maria
the problem is clearance.
if the side clamps it too far up the side inorder for me to be able to
reach it (that horrible "R" word), then the bottom end is digging into
my lap. Flipping to the back is impossible because I can't get it out
of my lap. LOL
if the side clamps it up too close to the bottom end, then by flipping
it, I can't see over the long top end that has either bonked me in the
head or on it's way to getting into my lap if it could crawl up my legs
LOL
Swinging it away, flipping then swinging back would probably work, but
it would really break up the stitching rhythm. Would also be
frustrating in a portion of work which had many needle changes to do
(most of my work) due to the frequency of interruption.
After looking at a jpeg of the corner clamp, I think I'd be in the same
boat as when I have the side clamping towards the bottom-- i.e., the top
has no where to flip. Remember we're talking about a 17 to 20 inch
length. Things under 15 inches aren't a problem.
Raising it up was something I was considering, but then the problem of
being able to reach working areas comes into play. On a long rectangle,
you can comfortably reach the area you're working but when you flip the
project, the working area with the threads you're trying to reach is
farthest away from you---tending towards the unreachable. Again,
stitching rhythm is lost when you have to shift position to get to that
farthest part, and becomes a frustration when having to do often in a
short time.
Ah well. I was just wondering if there was a less awkward way of doing
this. I guess not. Back to considering working from the side or
continuing to balance it on some body part (my own, still attached, got
lots of spare stitching parts here but none belong to Dr. Frankenstein).
It's not a big deal as far as things go, but I'm finding myself becoming
fussier the better equipment I work with.
Thanks for giving it a shot. I'll play with the options, as I have a
number of projects on 8 by 17 plus lengths on Q's. I don't want to
leave the beading till last, the beading is a big part of the fun of
these projects (SB's and Calico Crossroads Kloster blocked Seasonal
Bellpulls)and keeps me motivated working the project. The other
projects are Victoria Sampler pieces which are beaded and now needing
silk ribbon which I wouldn't want to crush in Rods.
Sally
If I understand you right.. you're gonna be in the same predicament no
matter what stand or attachments you use. The problem is the height that
you're trying to comfortably work with.
I've never used Q snaps.. but is there a way to use them by using shorter
side bars until you at least get the top done?
I use wood scroll rods.. and I bought some longer side bars thinking how
wonderful it would be to be able to see more of my work.. ugh.. big mistake.
I still have the longer side rods, but nothing goes on them until the top
part of the design is done.. same problem as yours.. I couldn't reach the
top backside comfortably.. and even if I could reach the spot up high on the
back, it really slowed me down.
There are others here that don't mind flipping the work and working on it
sideways or upside down.. but I'm too anal for that <G>... it just wouldn't
be fun for me.
So... as much as you love doing long skinny things.. do you think you can
find a way to work on shorter lengths of it at a time?
Sally
Mary M. Riedel
is loosen it slightly and the whole thing. including the Q-Snap or whatever
frame I'm using, twirls around easily so I can work on the back of it. Is
that what you mean?
Kim McAnnally
reason I'm really looking forward to getting my Handi Clamps in!
Kim
--
Now carrying Handi Clamp frames!
http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/New.html
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:bgq3nts8849vvbemj...@4ax.com...
> What I do is work from the bottom, up. As I stitch, I turn the scrolls
slowly
> as I go. After I stitch two 10 stitch rows (20 stitches high, in other
words) I
> lower that into the bottom scroll as far as I can without bonking into the
rod
> with my needle, and not having to do contortions to stitch too close to
the
> scroll rod.
>
> With qsnaps you can't move the fabric down? That is why I don't really
like
> qsnaps. They are not tight enough for me, either.
>
> Can you try to move the fabric as far down as possible, so you can reach
easier,
> while raising the L bar up a bit to clear your lap?
>
> V
Maria
>With qsnaps you can't move the fabric down
Sure, if the cloth is wide enough on the sides for the snaps to hold
them.
I've done that before: Loading the proj on shorter snaps, letting the
top loosely flop.
The problem comes when doing a long very narrow project that is the
width (or less) of the snaps. Going to 6 inch snaps is a possibility on
some of the projects, but I'm not sure if there's enough room to
comfortably get the stitching hand up through. The only way to find out
would be to try to find some 6 inch snaps and see (aw gee, whiz, have to
go stitch equipment shopping...<G>)
>Can you try to move the fabric as far down as possible, so you can
reach easier,
>while raising the L bar up a bit to clear your lap?
I'm trying something of the sort now on a new project I just had to
start to try out the options <G> (any excuse to start something else).
I'm working the from the bottom up. But this project also has
sufficient cloth to the sides that I can work with only the sides
held--which means the "bonking"/reaching problem won't occur--as I can
switch this to shorter Q's without worrying about crushing the beading,
ribbon, or any other dimensional effect on the embroidery's surface.
Thanks for giving it a shot.
maria from MA
Maria
one of those cases inwhich I won't use them because I didn't want to
have to roll the project.
I've never moved Q snaps around on a project. The same willeys that
some people get with people touching their projects, or with tape on the
fabric, I get with the thought of Q snaps clamping onto stitched
surfaces.
If the the choice was between Q clamp on stitching and rolling some
batting into rods in order to scroll it, I would find some batting and
scroll it. But with a long very narrow (3 to 5 inch wide design) it's
just a visual treat to have the whole thing available to look at while
working, to do the dimensional work (beading and such) as I go.
Yep, I am becoming a fussy old *art. ;)
--
maria from MA
remove the munge to reply
Kim McAnnally wrote in message ...
Maria
I didn't know they had the 90degree connectors!
The things I seem to not have enough of are those grooved things for
connecting the lengths.
I don't need the extenders, but the ones with the very thin band between
the two sections of grooves. Do the hardware stores have those?
maria from MA
remove the munge to reply
>Actually, you can just take the qsnap with you to the hardware store
and buy a
>length of pvc pipe the same diameter and cut whatever length you want
with a
>hack saw. You can even buy the 90 degree angle connectors for a few
cents each
>and have every size imaginable for about 10 dollar worth of pvc stuff!
As long
>as you have the initial qsnap so you have the clamps.
Meredith Dill
make sure you take the pieces with you so you get the right size...
Meredith
--
Meredith
To email me, drop the spam.
Kim McAnnally
Yep, here is a link <G> It has spare elbows, spare clamps, and the
extension kit
http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/vitem-Qsnaps2.htm
Kim
--
Now carrying Handi Clamp frames!
http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/New.html
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:ogi5ntods7aask0up...@4ax.com...
> I can't be sure, but I know Home Depot has an entire aisle dedicated to
pvc
> pipes and connectors. I'm sure you can rig something up.
>
> V
>
>
> On Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:10:42 GMT, "Maria" <ma_st...@yahoomunge.com>
wrote:
Shirley Shone
It says in the booklet.
The Lowery Long Frame Adaptor.
The long frame adaptor passes through, and is gripped by the corner
clamp.
It enables long narrow frames to be held at any point across the width.
My catalogue is 3 years old and the price for it was then.
Top to bottom frame 14 inches 15.50 uk pounds
" " " " 20 inches 17.50 uk pounds
If you would like me to I will see of I can scan the picture of it and
send it to you by email.
Shirley
In article <muzc7.7915$lr2.2...@typhoon.ne.mediaone.net>, Maria
<ma_st...@yahoomunge.com> writes
Shirley Shone
Kim McAnnally
we would get into trouble with Q-snap.
Kim
--
Now carrying Handi Clamp frames!
http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/New.html
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:icp5nt81a42085vt2...@4ax.com...
> Those are out of sight prices! Wow, that's expensive. You can get elbows
at
> hardware stores like Home Depot for 30 cents each. I guess because it is
a
> "needlework" website, they are more. I imagine they don't have the buying
power
> of the big hardware giants, but maybe they should start going to HD to buy
their
> stock so they can charge less! Eeeyikes.
>
> V
>
>
> On Thu, 9 Aug 2001 13:10:27 -0700, "Kim McAnnally"
<lwyat...@charter.net>
> wrote:
>
> >You can also buy just the replacement clamps, IIRC.
> >Yep, here is a link <G> It has spare elbows, spare clamps, and the
> >extension kit
> >http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/vitem-Qsnaps2.htm
> >Kim
>
>
>
Kim McAnnally
regular basis that I have low prices, so I know that compared to other
needlework shops, I'm doing fine. I couldn't hope to compare with PVC prices
at Home Depot.
Kim
--
Now carrying Handi Clamp frames!
http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/New.html
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:j0s7nt0e2eagmovg5...@4ax.com...
> I am so sorry I said this without thinking about who I would hurt. Kim,
in no
> way did I know you were the owner of the site. Also, I am terribly sorry
for
> what I said.
>
> I hope the preface of Home Depot buying power came across when I expressed
> price. Also, the Q-Snap company rules how much they are sold for.
>
> This is a good example of foot in mouth disease and I am really, really
sorry.
>
> Please accept my heartfelt public apology.
>
> respectfully,
> Victoria
>
>
>
> On Thu, 09 Aug 2001 19:34:59 GMT, victoria <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote:
>
> >Those are out of sight prices! Wow, that's expensive. You can get elbows
at
> >hardware stores like Home Depot for 30 cents each. I guess because it is
a
> >"needlework" website, they are more. I imagine they don't have the
buying power
> >of the big hardware giants, but maybe they should start going to HD to
buy their
> >stock so they can charge less! Eeeyikes.
> >
> >V
> >
> >
> >On Thu, 9 Aug 2001 13:10:27 -0700, "Kim McAnnally"
<lwyat...@charter.net>
> >wrote:
> >
> >>You can also buy just the replacement clamps, IIRC.
> >>Yep, here is a link <G> It has spare elbows, spare clamps, and the
> >>extension kit
> >>http://www.fabrics2uxstitch.com/vitem-Qsnaps2.htm
> >>Kim
> >
> >
> >
> >http://www.freetibet.org
>
>
>
> http://www.freetibet.org