Needlepoint to Cross Stitch
Doris Rhodes
Hi Everyone -
I've had so many questions answered here by all of you - it's really great
to have a place like this to come to. I have been doing cross stitch for
years now and all of a sudden I'm seeing some really nice needlepoint kits
out there also. Does anyone know if you can convert needlepoint to cross
stitch, and if so, how difficult is it. I really love cross stitching and
don't think I need to take up a second obsession. Thank you all in
advance - Dori
Lula
Dori,
You can follow a needlepoint chart just like a XS chart but the main
difference is your stitchery may stitch up as large areas of blended,
flat colors unless the design you are following has sharp color
contrasts or outlines to define and separate these details.
Depending on the design, another thing you might have to do is
backstitch some areas to define design elements to set them apart from
blending into the background.
--
Lula
http://www.woolydream.com
Needlework Adventures
sha...@epix.net
One of the simplest answers to that question about converting
needlepoint charts to cross stitch is the in the differences in the
ground fabric.
Needlepoint is done on canvas, cross stitch on fabric. Both are even
weave and both are of a similar construction, however, the holes in
canvas are much larger than cross stitch fabric and the canvas is
stiffer. A lot of cross stitch charts are meant to be stitched over
2...most needlepoint, unless it is on penelope canvas, is stitched over
1, unless we are speaking of deorative stitches. So, you have to have
that concept straight in your mind if you are used to stitching over 2.
And, some needlepoint is graphed on the intersection, not a symbol in
the space. I have found some confused by this.
You probably will not have any quarter stitches in the needlepoint
chart...these are not too common in needlepoint since it is not often
one is told to pierce the thread on the canvas to do a quarter
stich...remember needlepoint is generally over 1, not over 2 as is a lot
of cross stitch so quarter stitches are generally not used. You may have
to backstitch areas as Lula said for definition.
If the chart is for a picture, rather than a counted geometric design,
there should be no problem converting it. And if it is a geometric, the
only thing you have to remember is to put your work in a frame or on
stretcher or scroll bars because of the limpness of the cross stitch
fabric. It should work up the same. Be consistent...you either count
holes or threads. You will be much happier with the results.
Question for you, stitching is stitching...why not try the needlepoint.
It is only a stiffer fabric with bigger holes and not all that
different. I would encourage you to try it and learn something new. If
you enjoy it, it may end up opening new avenues of creativity and I see
that as a good thing.
I have done all forms of needlework at one time or another and have a
good knowledge of most forms from lace making to all sorts of surface
embroidery quilting and knitting (which is my "hobby" and a break from
15 hour days of the needlepoint business) crochet and tatting. This
never hurt me and I am able to speak to anyone on needlework of all
types and know what they are talking about. It has helped me grow and I
am constantly learning. Knowledge never hurt anyone. My home is full of
examples of all sorts of needlework. I even knit my own washcloths...you
can not beat them and yes, I use them all the time.
Give it a shot!
Sharon G
sha...@epix.net
McCollum
I, too, did only cross-stitch -- until I wandered into a needlework shop
and they didn't have any cross-stitch charts, only the most beautiful
hand-painted needlepoint works on canvas (Lula - my goodness I love those
colors!). So I decided to branch out and bought a brightly colored piece
that as I told the shopkeeper, "Even a blind person could tell the color
changes" (missing my chart already!). I wanted my first effort to bring as
little frustration as possible.
Long story short, I have really enjoyed venturing into a new area of
needlework. I am discovering new stitches and ways to bring neat textured
looks to background areas. My cross-stitch is still my primary stitching,
but my little orange pumpkin guy keeps beckoning me to stitch a little here
and there and he might just be done by Halloween!
Give it a try! You might really enjoy it.
Dawn Eileen
Lula
That's how I got involved in needlepoint too! By walking into a
needlework shop and falling in love with the many different threads and
colors I saw!
My first ventures into needlework was counted work until I found blank
needlepoint canvas! I never turned back and have even made a career
designing needlepoint!
Dawn and Sharon G are absolutely right, try it, you may just like it a
lot as an addititon to your cross stitching.
---
Lula
http://www.woolydream.com
Needlework Adventures
Jerome Culik & Martina Culik Moore
dori,
Both Lula (below) and Sharon G (another post) have given you
excellent advice. I would like to add some more to think
about...
The basic needlepoint stitch is done like: / instead of the
basic cross stitch which is is done like: X . Changing from
X to / will make some designs appear to be not symmetrical
(is this spelled right???).
For your first projects, look for a chart that does not have a lot of
half or
quarter stitches or backstitching to define the areas. Some
backstitching
in the design is OK. In needpointing you will find that the areas
become more softer (blended as Lula says) without the backstitching.
It's just a different look; but you can always backstitch if you want.
If you want to do a project with a lot of quarter stitches or
backstitching,
say an angel design with these stitches defining the face, you might
want to think about doing the face in petit point, doing some of your
own graphing to get the same result. Petit point is done on Penelope
canvas: the basic needlepoint stitch is done "2 over 2" and
the basic petit point stich is done "1 over 1". This is a little
advanced to start.
Have fun! Martina
Lula wrote:
>
> Dori,
>
> You can follow a needlepoint chart just like a XS chart but the main
> difference is your stitchery may stitch up as large areas of blended,
> flat colors unless the design you are following has sharp color
> contrasts or outlines to define and separate these details.
> Depending on the design, another thing you might have to do is
> backstitch some areas to define design elements to set them apart from
> blending into the background.
> --
> Lula
> http://www.woolydream.com
> Needlework Adventures
>
> Doris Rhodes wrote:
> >
> I have been doing cross stitch for
> > years now and all of a sudden I'm seeing some really nice needlepoint kits
> > out there also. Does anyone know if you can convert needlepoint to cross
> > stitch, and if so, how difficult is it. I really love cross stitching and
> > don't think I need to take up a second obsession. Thank you all in
> > advance - Dori
--
邢 唷��
Doris Rhodes
Hi
Thank you to all of you who took the time to answer my question regarding
cross stitch conversion to needlepoint. You all really gave me a lot of
information and also inspiration. I think now I will probably bit the
bullet and try a small needlepoint to see how I do. Thanks again. Dori
Doris Rhodes wrote in message <6kiled$1...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>...
>Hi Everyone -
>I've had so many questions answered here by all of you - it's really great
Beth Frank
Hello, I'm rather late replying to this, but I do mostly counted
needlepoint rather than
cross stitch. When I want to do a really detailed design (like an angel) I
usually use
the same count linen called for in the pattern and convert to 1 over 1.
That is, each
square on the cross stitch graph converts to 4 stitches. I also smooth the
edges as
I stitch so that I don't get stair step effect.
-Beth
JWashb7906
In article <01bd8fe9$b7f9df40$c867...@moonbeam.ncsa.uiuc.edu>, "Beth Frank"
<efr...@nospam.ncsa.uiuc.edu> writes:
<<I also smooth the edges as I stitch so that I don't get stair step effect.>>
Hi Beth -
How do you do that? "smooth the edges"
Janet
Aura Perez
Hi Beth, I am looking for a good source of needlework stuff, can you
recomend a catalog? I already subscribe to NN but they do not have too many
needlepoint stuff.
Thanks
Aura
SandraMW1
I really like some of the charted needlepoint patterns and would love to try it
but I am mystified as to how you manage to count the stitches without going
crackers--all the books I've read about needlepoint tell you to turn the canvas
upside down to do a consecutive row--which means you have to read the chart
upside down and backwards. I'm I missing something and making this harder than
it has to be?
Sandy
(who has been been relying on painted canvas to satisfy her needlepoint habits)
LISA RICHARDS
SandraMW1 wrote:
>
I'm I missing something and making this harder than
> it has to be?
>
the chsrt the same way you would any cross stitch chart. After all, one
(or at least I) just take note of how long the next line is by seeing
where it ends in relation to the current line. The reason you turn your
needlepoint is so that your stitches lie evenly when you're doing
basketweave or tent stitch (I forget which it is...), otherwise you get
little peeks coming through of the canvas. It's really not that hard,
believe me. Not that I'm good at it - there are lots of little white
specks in mine, but that's a measure of my stitching, not the difficulty
of reading the chart. The stitches run the same direction no matter
whether you're right side up or upside down. Sometimes I even do this
when I'm x stitching, so I can use the sewing method more easily.
Hope this made any sense. The point is, jump right in, it's easier than
you think. Just try to get your threads to cover the canvas nicely. Beth
Russell has some _gorgeous_, but not too dificult, things in her books
(I adore the Arts & Crafts Movement, and it's artistic partner the
Pre-Raphaelite Movement - spent hours at the Tate Museum when I was in
London just drooling all over the place). And, she gives very good
instructions on both stitching and finishing.
Lisa R.
Karen T
On 4 Jun 1998 18:57:34 GMT, "Beth Frank" <efr...@nospam.ncsa.uiuc.edu>
wrote:
>Hello, I'm rather late replying to this, but I do mostly counted
>needlepoint rather than
>cross stitch. When I want to do a really detailed design (like an angel) I
>usually use
>the same count linen called for in the pattern and convert to 1 over 1.
>That is, each
>square on the cross stitch graph converts to 4 stitches. I also smooth the
>edges as
>I stitch so that I don't get stair step effect.
>
> -Beth
>
What exactly do you mean by smoothing the edges? MLI mentioned that,
too, about converting her charts faces and hands to over-1, smoothing
as you go. I understand "why" but not sure I understand exactly "how"
Karen
Jerome Culik & Martina Culik Moore
Sandy,
Typically, turning the canvas upside down is when you are
doing continental stitch as opposed to basketweave.
I only use continental for small areas of stiching
since it distorts the canvas.
What I do, is look at the next row in relation to the current row
that I am doing or have done, in the color I am working...
For example, if the current row has 5 stiches and the next row
has 8 stitches, I look to see whether the additional stitches
have been added all to one side of the previous 5 stitches,
or 2 to one side and 1 to the other side, ...or...
Martina
SandraMW1 wrote:
>
> I really like some of the charted needlepoint patterns and would love to try it
> but I am mystified as to how you manage to count the stitches without going
> crackers--all the books I've read about needlepoint tell you to turn the canvas
> upside down to do a consecutive row--which means you have to read the chart
> upside down and backwards. I'm I missing something and making this harder than
> it has to be?
>
> Sandy
> (who has been been relying on painted canvas to satisfy her needlepoint habits)
--
**JS Culik & ML Culik Moore**
Herb
Hi Sandy,
The purpose of "turning the canvas upside down" is so that you are always
working from right to left when doing the continental stitch. What I do
is, starting from the right, I go into the bottom left of stitch into top
right, and continue across the row. When coming back, instead of turning
the canvas, I go into top right of stitch first into bottom left. I'm
actually working from left to right on this second row, but executing the
stitch as if I had turned the canvas. I hope I explained this legibly. If
not, e-mail me and I'll try to explain better. Good Luck. Tobie
SandraMW1 <sand...@aol.com> wrote in article
<199806070042...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...