Question for Do-It-Yourself Needlework Framers ...
lin...@his.com
I am going to frame a sampler myself.
I ordered the frame, and have received it. I have the foam core. I
have the glass.
When I used to go to make-a-frame shops, or when I've had something
professionally framed, the needlework is often affixed to the frame
with a sort of staple-gun type thing that puts tiny nails or clips
through the back of the fabric and the back of the frame, so that the
foam core and the needlework is held firmly to the frame.
I don't have one of these staple-gun things at home, of course.
So I am wondering -- for those of you who do your own framing, do you
use anything to affix the needlework to the back of the frame? Or do
you just use masking tape? Or ...?
How do you keep it in the frame?
Many thanks for any information or suggestions ...
Linda W.
Julie in Hondo
You can purchase frame inserts that you sort of tap in with a small hammer.
I think Hobby Lobby has them on the shelf by the framing dept. They are
actually supposed to "push" in but it usually takes a hammer. I personally
bought the gun that inserts the bending kind of inserts and I love it.
Julie in Hondo
Nadia Abbasi
I don't know whether this is "proper" technique or not, but it's worked
beautifully the last few items I've framed. I center the work on the
foam core and stick four pins through the front - one at each corner of
the stitching - to hold it temporarily in place. Then I pull the
fabric tight edge by edge and stick silk pins through the fabric and
into the foam core all around the edge and then lace up the back
tightly with a double strand of regular thread. Then I take out the
pins from the front and pop it right into the frame. It holds
beautifully, the silk pins don't rust, and you don't have to use any
glue or tape that could damage the fabric. I usually get a 1/8 inch
thick acid-free foam core from Hobby Lobby - and they cut it to size at
no extra charge.
I hope this was helpful (and understandable!)
Nadia
flastitch
> So I am wondering -- for those of you who do your own framing, do you
> use anything to affix the needlework to the back of the frame? Or do
> you just use masking tape? Or ...?
>
> How do you keep it in the frame?
>
> Many thanks for any information or suggestions ...
>
> Linda W.
Hi, Linda. I use a Black & Decker PowerShot, a manual heavy-duty
stapler bought at a home store. Try to find staples with long "legs"
(various sizes are available). I shoot them into the frame so that they
don't go all the way in. This may take a little practice to know where
to position the stapler. Then the staples, which will be sticking out a
bit, can be pushed down flush against the item you're framing, holding
it in place. You'll need to put a staple every few inches. Hope this
helps.
Beth in Florida
Bertha
something like:
> When I used to go to make-a-frame shops, or when I've had something
> professionally framed, the needlework is often affixed to the frame
> with a sort of staple-gun type thing that puts tiny nails or clips
> through the back of the fabric and the back of the frame, so that the
> foam core and the needlework is held firmly to the frame.
>
> I don't have one of these staple-gun things at home, of course.
>
> So I am wondering -- for those of you who do your own framing, do you
> use anything to affix the needlework to the back of the frame? Or do
> you just use masking tape? Or ...?
What you need are called "glazier's points." They're the same things used
to hold in window glass in wood-frame windows. You can get a specific
kind which do not require a gun to use; they're called "push points" and
they look like this:
<http://www.acehardware.com/sm-fletcher-push-points-10-pack-08-711--pi-1278896.html>
You lie them flat agains the back of the art/needlework, with the pointy
side against the frame, press a chisel or screwdriver against the vertical
tabs, and push it into the wood. For harder woods you might need to tap
the chisel/screwdriver with a hammer.
Your local hardware store should have some. Good luck!
-Bertha
--
I am returning this otherwise good typing paper to you because someone has
printed gibberish all over it and put your name at the top.
-- English Professor, Ohio University
lin...@his.com
May I ask a bit more? This is an interesting idea. :-)
Do you use glass when you use this method? I'm just wondering if the
pins are enough to keep the piece in the frame even with glass.
I usually use pins along the sides of the foam core, as you do, in
order to center the piece. But then I've taken them out before putting
the piece into the frame.
I've done both lacing and used masking tape on the back. Since I had
been taking the pins out, I'd leaned more towards masking tape since I
was concerned that the lacing might put extra pressure on the fabric
where the lacing pulls it tight. But with the pins left in, that
wouldn't be an issue, I wouldn't think.
So by leaving the pins in, it's like having enough traction (or
whatever) to hold the piece in the frame without nails or staples?
Many thanks!!!
Linda W.
Ericka Kammerer
I would use non-rusting pins a long time before
I'd use masking tape. It really doesn't take very long
before masking tape causes the fabric to yellow and
deteriorate.
Best wishes,
Ericka
Jere Williams
design I did for my daughter (now 33) when she was in first grade, and I
finally took it to be professionally framed this year because I'd used
masking tape, and it totally gave up the ghost and was coming out of the
frame.
It looks great now!
--
Jere
"Ericka Kammerer" <e...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:oPydnRhiHvV...@comcast.com...
Jenn Ridley
>Hello ...
>
>I am going to frame a sampler myself.
>
>I ordered the frame, and have received it. I have the foam core. I
>have the glass.
>
>When I used to go to make-a-frame shops, or when I've had something
>professionally framed, the needlework is often affixed to the frame
>with a sort of staple-gun type thing that puts tiny nails or clips
>through the back of the fabric and the back of the frame, so that the
>foam core and the needlework is held firmly to the frame.
>
>I don't have one of these staple-gun things at home, of course.
You can buy framing points
(<http://www.pictureframes.com/html/pointdriver.html> second on the
page) most places that you can buy frames. Put them in with either a
point tool (preferred) or a screwdriver gently tapped with a hammer
(not preferred, but effective).
I usually use a shallow enough frame that the paper back suffices to
hold the piece in the frame. I used to use small brads, but it's much
easier to use framing points.
jenn
--
Jenn Ridley : jri...@chartermi.net
WIP: Oriental Butterfly, Insect Sampler
Most recently Finished: TicTacToe Sampler, Snow, Morning Glory
Stitching log: http://www.livejournal.com/users/jenn_stitch/
lin...@his.com
Wow. Maybe I should leave the pins in, then. Are the conventional
straight pins we use these days non-rusting?
And then maybe I could just tape the ends of the fabric on the back
lightly or something. I don't know that I'm good enough at lacing!!!
Thanks so much!
Linda W.
lin...@his.com
This might well work fine for my sampler in question, too -- I mean its
being a shallow-enough frame to hold the piece in the frame. I'll see
how it works once I get the sampler affixed to the foam core.
I wonder, if I brought it to a frame shop, whether they'd just put a
few brads or whatever they might use in for me? Although I'l trying to
keep the cost down, so I may see what happens without them.
Hmmmm ...
Thanks!
Linda W.
Nadia Abbasi
Yup - I just leave the pins in - once you push them down, they sort of
hold themselves in place. Sometimes if the frame comes with a backing,
I'll get my husband to press the glazier's point down real tight, but
it's a pretty fat fit, depending on how wide the inside of the frame
is. You could even just cover the back with plain brown paper if
you're sure nothing will fall back out - which mine usually don't
because they end up nice and snug.
And I specifically get silk pins because they don't rust. They're in
the same section as the regular stick pins, but cost a dollar or so
more. I learned about those from Tia Mary, I think.
I do use matted, glass front frames. I just think mats make the work
look that much nicer.
Nadia
lin...@his.com
Thanks!
I'm going to try that for this one and maybe I'll save having to
find/purchase the other things, since I need to have this done by
tomorrow evening.
I'm planning to cover the back with brown paper. I've saved some brown
paper and am hoping that if I iron it (carefully, of course!) it'll get
some of the wrinkles out.
I'll look for the silk pins. I wonder if I could find them in the
sewing section at CVS??? (Since I'm a bit pressed for time and that's
closer than a sewing shop.)
I'm not going to mat this one because it's an antique-look pattern, and
I think it looks more like an old piece without the matting. I have
added a border to the pattern, though, because it just looked
unfinished to me without something around it. And so many of the
antique ones have a border of some kind.
So I'm stitching in the border right now. Then I can get to the
framing part. :-)
Thanks again!
Linda W.
Brenda Lewis
the nickel plating on the others.
--
Brenda
Bilge Queen of Puzzle Pirates
Jenn Ridley
>Nadia ...
>
>Thanks!
>
>I'm going to try that for this one and maybe I'll save having to
>find/purchase the other things, since I need to have this done by
>tomorrow evening.
>
>I'm planning to cover the back with brown paper. I've saved some brown
>paper and am hoping that if I iron it (carefully, of course!) it'll get
>some of the wrinkles out.
After you get the paper glued down, spritz it with water. Just a
little. The paper will shrink as it dries, will be beautifully taut
against the frame, and *no wrinkles*. This trick even works with
paper grocery bags, although I usually use kraft paper (or plain color
wrapping paper, shiny side in, if that's all I've got).
Joan E.
Here's a great site for instructions on pinning and lacing your
needlework:
http://www.shakespearespeddler.com/stretch.html
I've been using Theresa's method for quite awhile now. The lacing is
time-consuming but I prefern doing that than taking a chance and
leaving the pins in. JMO.
Joan
lin...@his.com
Thanks, Jenn.
Do you spritz water over the entire surface of the paper evenly, or
just sort of randomly?
Linda W.
Jenn Ridley
I use a cheap spray bottle set on fine mist, and try to mist it
evenly. As long as it's evenly moist (and not really wet), it should
work fine. My mom uses her sprinkler bottle for doing the same thing.
(anyone remember those? A sprinkler head fitted onto narrow necked
glass bottle.)
(I have a spray bottle next to my iron, but there's also one in the
kitchen that I use for spritzing plants or wetting down the kids'
bangs before I trim them.)
Pat P
"Julie in Hondo" <huntingm...@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:11qje2d...@corp.supernews.com...
The staple guns aren`t all that expensive - and are VERY useful things to
have in any case.
Pat P
>
>
>
Darla
<rhianno...@netscape.net> wrote:
>I specifically look for pins labeled as stainless steel. I don't trust
>the nickel plating on the others.
But keep in mind that "stainless" does not mean "rust-proof."
Liz from Humbug
Good point! DH recommends taking a magnet with you when you want to
buy stainless steel pins. The more magnetic they are, the more iron
they contain, an the more likely they will be to rust. A "low grade"
stainless steel will indeed rust more quickly than a 300 series (makes
it sound like I know what I'm talking about, doesn't it? ) :-) , which
has less iron in it.
Liz from Humbug
Helen Bartel
choose not to use mats, I put in some spacers to keep the glass off
the fabric.
If you are using glass, it adds some weight to the whole thing and you
will likely need something more than tape to keep it in the frame. I
use glazier points (of course, my DH is a woodworker, so I don't need
to do the work myself) and then cover the back with paper and tape. I
have a heavy plasticy tape that works really nicely.
Helen
lin...@his.com wrote:
Helen Bartel
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