Hardanger - work in a frame or in hand?
Teresa
Mapescpa wrote:
>
> I am about to start my very first fairly large hardanger project. I have read
> several books and pamphlets about the procedure and think I can do the
> stitching. However, the instructions that I have read so far disagree on
> whether it is best to stitch hardanger in hand or in a hoop or frame.
>
> Would anyone who has some experience in hardanger help me out with this? I tend
> to think I would be more comfortable using some type of frame, as I have
> practiced holding the fabric in hand and it feels very awkward. Perhaps if you
> prefer in hand, you would describe exactly how you hold the fabric.
>
> Thank you very much!
>
> Lois
Dear Lois:
While not real experienced with hardanger, I've done enough to tell you
there is no "right" answer. I have done my kloster blocks both in a
frame and in hand. While it is much faster in hand, I found that the
stitches were not *quite* as even- and I made a lot more mistakes which
had to be frogged later- so no real time saved. So, from now on, I will
go back to doing the klosters in a frame.
Eyelets are definitely- for me- easier in a frame. I only tried a few in
hand and they were just real difficult to get even and pulled enough.
Blanket stitches, on the other hand, I found I could not do at all in a
frame- and the same for the needleweaving.
As they say, jmho, but that's what I've found in the few months I've
been doing hardanger.
Hope this helps.
Teresa/LadyDoc
Mapescpa
I am about to start my very first fairly large hardanger project. I have read
several books and pamphlets about the procedure and think I can do the
stitching. However, the instructions that I have read so far disagree on
whether it is best to stitch hardanger in hand or in a hoop or frame.
Would anyone who has some experience in hardanger help me out with this? I tend
to think I would be more comfortable using some type of frame, as I have
practiced holding the fabric in hand and it feels very awkward. Perhaps if you
prefer in hand, you would describe exactly how you hold the fabric.
Thank you very much!
Lois
The smaller the victim, the greater the crime.
SDKOEHLER
Lois,
I tend to do both! I work all my Kloster blocks, buttonhole stitches,satin
stitches etc by hand using the sewing method, but then after cutting I put it
in a frame to do the needlewraps. I'm not sure I can explain how I hold it in
hand, I don't tend to scruch my fabric up, just gently hold it and go for it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sarah Koehler / Ferndale WA
sdko...@aol.com
Current UFO's: Flower Power, Hardanger Table Runner, Crocheted Afgan.
Hank & Anne Reintges
If you are more comfortable stitching on a frame then I would advise using a
frame (or hoop). I stitch hardanger in hand until it is time to cut and
needleweave, then I use a hoop. I just dislike using hoops or frames and will
not use them if I can get away with it. I find the tension is better if I use
a hoop to do the weaving and filling stitches, though. JMHO
Anne/ NC
In article <19980127014...@ladder02.news.aol.com>, mape...@aol.com
(Mapescpa) wrote:
>I am about to start my very first fairly large hardanger project. I have read
>several books and pamphlets about the procedure and think I can do the
>stitching. However, the instructions that I have read so far disagree on
>whether it is best to stitch hardanger in hand or in a hoop or frame.
>
>Would anyone who has some experience in hardanger help me out with this? I tend
>to think I would be more comfortable using some type of frame, as I have
>practiced holding the fabric in hand and it feels very awkward. Perhaps if you
>prefer in hand, you would describe exactly how you hold the fabric.
>
>Thank you very much!
>
>Lois
>
>The smaller the victim, the greater the crime.
Address has been altered to block junk bulk mailers. To send an E-mail
delete the ".uk" on the end of address.
Linda D.
Hi ya,
I have done a quite a bit of hardanger and have taught several
classes, I always work "in hand" for all of it, klosters, buttonhole
stitch, needleweaving....the works. I don't use a hoop at all. I
just kind of roll the fabric up in my hand, not awkward at all :)
"If" you do decided to use a hoop, please, please be careful if you
use it for the needleweaving! I have a friend who is very, very
experienced in hardanger, she was working on a huge beautiful
hardanger tablerunner and she used a hoop for the
needleweaving....somehow it was too tight and "popped" some of threads
out of the kloster blocks....not a good thing :( She spent hours and
hours, day upon day repairing those threads....no fun :(
Enjoy hardanger, it's a wonderful break from cross-stitch, IMHO :)
Take care, Linda :) (Flit on #stitch)
Susan Hartman/Dirty Linen
Hi, Lois!
I let the fabric determine the method I use. If I'm stitching on
Hardanger fabric (rarely), I use a hoop and the "stab" method for
kloster blocks. If I'm using linen (usually), I do kloster blocks "in
hand," using the sewing method. No matter what the fabric is, I take it
out of the hoop to cut threads, and do use a hoop for the needleweaving.
Good luck, and do what feels most natural for you.
Sue
> In article <19980127014...@ladder02.news.aol.com>, mape...@aol.com
> (Mapescpa) wrote:
> >I am about to start my very first fairly large hardanger project. I have read
> >several books and pamphlets about the procedure and think I can do the
> >stitching. However, the instructions that I have read so far disagree on
> >whether it is best to stitch hardanger in hand or in a hoop or frame.
> >
> >Would anyone who has some experience in hardanger help me out with this? I tend
> >to think I would be more comfortable using some type of frame, as I have
> >practiced holding the fabric in hand and it feels very awkward. Perhaps if you
> >prefer in hand, you would describe exactly how you hold the fabric.
> >Lois
--
Susan Hartman/Dirty Linen
The Magazine of Folk and World Music
http://www.dirtylinen.com
TJBentz
SDKOEHLER wrote:
> Lois,
> I tend to do both! I work all my Kloster blocks, buttonhole stitches,satin stitches etc by hand using the sewing method, but then after cutting I put it in a frame to do the needlewraps. I'm not sure I can explain how I hold it in hand, I don't tend to scruch my fabric up, just gently hold it and go for it.<<
This is interesting since I do the opposite. I use a 5" wooden frame of
my grandmother's for the kloster blocks and then wrap the bars in hand.
I'm a scruncher.
--
Tamara in sunny San Diego
http://pages.prodigy.com/tjbentz
X/USA/-/-/-/2C/XHP/HQ/:-D~/P/NGG-/W+/D/M/B/b+/R-/S-/K-/E/?/C+/Harrison
Ford/Lillian Jackson Braun/German chocolate
Mike & June Huber
Mapescpa wrote:
>
> I am about to start my very first fairly large hardanger project. I have read
> several books and pamphlets about the procedure and think I can do the
> stitching. However, the instructions that I have read so far disagree on
> whether it is best to stitch hardanger in hand or in a hoop or frame.
>
> Would anyone who has some experience in hardanger help me out with this? I tend
> to think I would be more comfortable using some type of frame, as I have
> practiced holding the fabric in hand and it feels very awkward. Perhaps if you
> prefer in hand, you would describe exactly how you hold the fabric.
>
>
> Lois
>
> The smaller the victim, the greater the crime.
I did my very first hardanger piece in a hoop, but have now learned to
work in hand and prefer it. I hold the fabric the same way I would for
working cross-stitch in hand. Excess fabric is rolled (right side in to
keep it cleaner) and held in my left hand, thumb on top and fingers
underneath to guide the needle. Needle and thread are in my right hand
and all stitches are done with a sewing motion. I turn the fabric
whatever way is needed to make the sewing motion comfortable.
For wrapping and weaving bars, I always hold the fabric so that the
wrapped portion of the bar is closest to my left hand. I pinch the wraps
already done between my left thumb and middle finger so that the tension
stays consistent. I can also use this pinch to pack the wraps together.
My advice to you is: take a scrap of fabric, try a small test square
each way (in hand vs. in hoop or frame) and do what is most comfortable
for you.
APotter597
Well, I hardly qualify as experienced since I only just finished my first
Hardanger project (I am now thoroughly hooked by the way, and drooling over the
new Nordic Needle catalog). I used a scroll frame for all the kloster blocks
and satin stitching (my pattern also included a small amount of silk ribbon
embroidery), then took it out of the frame and did the cutting and needle
weaving in hand. It worked pretty well.
Amy
A Potter
APott...@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/APotter597/index.htm
AChrist787
While I don't do an overwhelming amount of hardanger (cuts into my needlepoint
time) I always work it on scroll bars or stretcher bars. Not only is it hard
on my hands to work in hand, my work simply looks better when done on bars.
Anne
Anne Christopherson
"Old roses are full of instructions on how to live right."
Katherine Hutter
I taught myself Hardanger about 20 years ago from a book I found in an
old WoolWorth's store (Hardanger Embroidery A Complete and Practical
Course by Sigrid Bright). I started doing it all in hand (klosters and
filling) and have continued that way ever since. I tried once to do the
klosters on a scroll frame, but it was too difficult for me to master
that way - didn't have the same feel. So, this is the one kind of
stitching that I do completely in hand.
Katherine Hutter
Sunnyside, NY
Kotchka
I do the klosters in hand, but I like having the piece on a frame for doing
the filling stitches. Just my little quirk
--
Kotchka
---
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peanuts
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and
WE are the dreamers of dreams
-- Willy Wonka
Katherine Hutter <art_...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<34DCA8...@ix.netcom.com>...
Lora....@erols.com
In <34DCA8...@ix.netcom.com>, on 02/07/98
at 10:31 AM, Katherine Hutter <art_...@ix.netcom.com> said:
>I taught myself Hardanger about 20 years ago from a book I found in an
>old WoolWorth's store (Hardanger Embroidery A Complete and Practical
>Course by Sigrid Bright). I started doing it all in hand (klosters and
>filling) and have continued that way ever since. I tried once to do the
This booklet is still sold by Dover Publications, $3.50
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Lora....@erols.com The Bronx
Lefthanded needleworker, doll lover and chess player
-----------------------------------------------------------
Steve and Terri
Lora....@erols.com wrote:
: In <34DCA8...@ix.netcom.com>, on 02/07/98
: at 10:31 AM, Katherine Hutter <art_...@ix.netcom.com> said:
:
: >I taught myself Hardanger about 20 years ago from a book I found in an
: >old WoolWorth's store (Hardanger Embroidery A Complete and Practical
: >Course by Sigrid Bright). I started doing it all in hand (klosters and
: >filling) and have continued that way ever since. I tried once to do the
: This booklet is still sold by Dover Publications, $3.50
I used it quite a bit when I was working on learning Hardanger...
Terri
--
Terri Carl
ter...@neosoft.com
X/USA/H++/X4Y12/4C/XNHtD/0 & new F/:-X/L/G & G-/Wo/D or A, always
S/M/B/b-/R++++++++/S++/K-/E///R1B2/Harrison Ford (this week)/Carl Hiaasen
(this week)/ALWAYS chocolate
Barbara Joyce
Debbie, you really *must* attend a Tangle! There are lots of stitchers
there who are well versed in Hardanger and can help you learn. A couple
of us have even taken a workshop with Janice Love, who is, IMHO, the
foremost Hardanger authority.
Meanwhile, I would strongly recommend you buy "Hardanger Basics and
Beyond" by Janice Love. It will tell you everything you need to know to
do Hardanger with the correct techniques, which in turn will enable you to
produce beautiful Hardanger pieces with proper tension and stitch
uniformity.
See you soon, I hope,
Barbara
In article <34E2BB...@chesapeake.net>, fran...@chesapeake.net wrote:
> Thanks for the info. I ordered Walk the Gentle Path bye Emie Bishop
> (thinking it was a cross-stitch only pattern) from another catalog (with
> tiny hard-to-see photo) - then I get my first Nordic Needle catalog &
> find out it's advanced Hardanger - ACK!- which I've never done. Looking
> forward to working on it anyway.
>
> Debbie in St. Leonard MD USA
*****************************************************************
Current Projects: Home for Christmas Stocking, for my SIL, Tom; True Friends from Just Nan; Miniature Reversible Sampler (class-only design from The Drawn Thread); and Sampler Sewing Basket from Hillside Samplings.
******************************************************************
kemp
Well, we can suffer through learning Hardanger together...I have the same
Emie Bishop pattern plus "Heart's Delight". I am still practicing the
stitches on scrap linen. Nordic Needle has Hardanger lessons 101, 201, &
301 on their web site http://nordicneedle.com
Their instructions for the individual stitch types seem easier to
understand than those in my chart brochures.
Good luck!
Karen
Brad <fran...@chesapeake.net> wrote in article
<34E2BB...@chesapeake.net>...
Barbara Joyce
Before you try to educate yourselves about Hardanger, you owe it to
yourself to look at a copy of Hardanger Basics and Beyond by Janice Love.
I think it's the best self-teaching text available--clear, easy to
understand directions and great stitch charts, even contains a description
of mistakes people make and how to correct them. Worth every penny.
Barbara
*****************************************************************
Robert and Elizabeth
I just have to put in my two cents--My mother lent me Basics and Beyond,
and I got a copy for myself when she demanded it back. I have learned to
do hardanger from this book and it is great. I keep it with me when I am
working from other books to make sure I change threads correctly. As
Barbara says, it is worth every penny! Elizabeth
Chris Braun
On 13 Feb 98 03:53:54 GMT, "kemp" <ke...@acsol.net> wrote:
>Nordic Needle has Hardanger lessons 101, 201, &
>301 on their web site http://nordicneedle.com
It's http://www.nordicneedle.com.
Chris
Dee
What is a Tangle???
Barbara Joyce wrote:
> Debbie, you really *must* attend a Tangle! There are lots of stitchers
> there who are well versed in Hardanger and can help you learn. A couple
> of us have even taken a workshop with Janice Love, who is, IMHO, the
> foremost Hardanger authority.
>
> Meanwhile, I would strongly recommend you buy "Hardanger Basics and
> Beyond" by Janice Love. It will tell you everything you need to know to
> do Hardanger with the correct techniques, which in turn will enable you to
> produce beautiful Hardanger pieces with proper tension and stitch
> uniformity.
>
> See you soon, I hope,
> Barbara
>