Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

Q: slate frames and/or medieval/ren. type frames

0 views
Skip to first unread message

Liz / Cozit

unread,
May 9, 2002, 12:38:14 AM5/9/02
to
Ok... from all the pretty pictures I've been looking at
lately (ok... so it's getting late here...and I'm getting
punchy, but one last post...)

What I've been seeing in the pre-1550s (at least) pictures
of frames looks like an adjustable frame made in at least
a similar way to the slate frames that are starting to pop
up here and there now... with the exceptions that
sometimes they're much bigger, there is only a one hole
row down the middle of the adjustable length thinner slats
(Rather than the 3 I've seen recently), and I haven't
found any pictures that had the material tacked to the
frame, only laced the whole way around.

I admit that looking less than 100 years later (late
1500s, early 1600s) I found a picture of a double
staggered row of holes for the adustable part, and another
that had canvas tacked to the one set of cross bars (can't
remember for certain which) apparently to attatch material
to.

So, I lucked out and picked up some wood *close* to what I
had in my mind for making a smaller frame (across the lap
on tressles) of the lace over it fashion to use for early
1500 demos... but it doesn't seem *quite* right... it was
free, so I figured I might play with it... but I'm not
quite sure.

I'm looking for suggestions on dimensions for such a
frame... I figure that the "top and bottom" cross bars
will be the heavier, non-adjustable pieces, and the sides
the thinner, adjustable ones. I was *thinking* 2 inches
by 1/4 inch (should I try to make that 1/2 inch?) "boards"
for the adjustable sides with the holes in them.... and 1
to 2 inches by 3/4 to 1 inch for the fixed sides (figuring
I need at *least* 3 times the other's depth to put the
holes in and hold "properly).

What I *have* is 1 inch by 1 inch lengths for the fixed
sides, 1 1/2 by 1/4 inch for the movable.

I'm not wild about that... especially the ones destined
for holes... seems like it might/might-not work. The wood
was free, but time to put into it since it was scrap
"packing" wood (clean, untreated, just used basically as
shims for shipping boards). I can obviously go in search
of something better (sides I can find that 1 1/2 by 1/4
inch... not so great looking, or 2 1/2 by 1/4 inch ...
good looking, but seems wide maybe? Not sure what I can
get hold of, untreated, for the fixed sides beyond what I
just picked up... but I've got a fair amount to look
through and the one guy at Home Depot said they could
special order *some* sizes.

Anyone have any good suggestions for dimensions of the
sides?


TIA,
-Liz (still having too much fun researching a new
character for this fall)

Fred

unread,
May 9, 2002, 3:11:48 AM5/9/02
to
I would think the first thing to do would be to take a piece of ground
fabric, lay it on a table, study it and write down a list of things that you
want to accomplish. That's your goal! Then draw a plan or plans for the
device that allows you to achieve your goal. Then determine the strengths
required. Select, cut your wood and assemble. Then put your device to
practical use.

IMHO American Red Oak is the lightest, easiest to work with yet, strongest
wood you can find.

Fred
El Honcho Grande at
http://www.stitchaway.com
Visit my albums @ http://www.picturetrail.com
Username is stitchaway (no caps, no spaces)
W.I.P. - "Fiddler on the Roof", "Romantic Venice",
"Ocean Princess", "Southwest Charm",
"Rainbow Trail", "Indian Pottery", "One Earth" and
"Spirit of the Full Moon".

"Liz / Cozit" <co...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:3CD9FD33...@comcast.net...


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/20/02


Sandra

unread,
May 10, 2002, 12:04:00 AM5/10/02
to
> I admit that looking less than 100 years later (late
> 1500s, early 1600s) I found a picture of a double
> staggered row of holes for the adustable part, and another
> that had canvas tacked to the one set of cross bars (can't
> remember for certain which) apparently to attatch material
> to.
>
Liz,

Not sure exactly what you are trying to do?

Gripit Plus sell a neat slate frame (with the double stagger pin
holes) which it strong enough to STAND-ON to get the 100% tambour
tautness of an embroidery hoop, then you lace the sides, for $50 it is
a bargin. Ring Lilais 'Sam'Ralph (800) 347 5748 it is not shown on
their web site, for the exact dimension.

The professional workroom frames to sit lots of ladies is of a similar
specification but bigger.

What do you want to embroider?
Sandra
http://needleandframe.com

Liz / Cozit

unread,
May 10, 2002, 1:05:14 AM5/10/02
to

Sandra wrote:

I'm "only" putting a pouch on it this time around... not cut, drawn while
embroidering.

The Gripit one I am considering, if I can't figure this out for myself...
actually, I might just get one for myself *not* to take to faire and
demos, anyway :-)

The pictures in and before the time period I'm doing, and at least in one
a bit after, all show a single line of peg holes, and I've only seen one
that might have been tacked to the one side of bars, the other pictures
show laced around. So I'm trying for that look in inexpensive wood (since
anything I take to the MD Renn. Fest. to work on will be ruined,
cleanliness-wise at least).

Thanks for the info about the Gripit.. I had remembered that Linn had
them to do it, but not which company... and didn't know an approximate
price.

-Liz

0 new messages