Q-Snap Question
Drisana
www.crossstitchzone.com. I have always stitched in a hoop and was very
excited to try out my new Q-snaps. My current WIP is on aida, and I was
very disappointed because I couldn't get the fabric taut at all. Mind you,
I probably keep my fabric tighter than most, but after a stitch or two I
would have to take the fabric out and start all over putting on the snaps.
I finally put it back in the hoop. On a whim, I tried the Q-snaps with a
piece of evenweave I had laying around. It was MUCH better.
I thought maybe I was using the snaps wrong until it worked with the
evenweave, but maybe I really don't know what I am doing. Has anyone else
had this problem? Or does anyone have any advise?
For the record, I got very good service from Cross Stitch Zone (located in
BC, Canada) and thanks goes to the nice lady who gave me the link...I'm so
sorry I can't remember who it was.
--
Drisana
Tom & Rita Liesch
> I have always stitched in a hoop and was very
> excited to try out my new Q-snaps. My current WIP is on aida, and I was
> very disappointed because I couldn't get the fabric taut at all. Mind
you,
> I probably keep my fabric tighter than most, but after a stitch or two I
> would have to take the fabric out and start all over putting on the snaps.
> I finally put it back in the hoop. On a whim, I tried the Q-snaps with a
> piece of evenweave I had laying around. It was MUCH better.
>
> I thought maybe I was using the snaps wrong until it worked with the
> evenweave, but maybe I really don't know what I am doing. Has anyone else
> had this problem? Or does anyone have any advise?
Even with the stiffest aida, I have no trouble keeping drum tight tension on
the fabric when using q-snaps. If the fabric goes a little slack, just take
two of the clamp on pieces (use ones that are opposite each other) and while
still clamped in place, rotate the clamps towards the outside edge of the
fabric. Or to put it another way, put your right hand on the clamp on the
right side of the q-snap and your left hand on the clamp on the left side of
the q-snap. Rotate the clamps, right clamp to the right and left clamp to
the left. Your fabric should tighten up nicely.
Rita Liesch
Drisana
weird piece of fabric...it's not very stiff at all. And I did the same
thing with the aida as I did with the evenweave. Oh well, once I'm done
this I probably won't be using aida any more anyway.
Thanks for your response...at least I know I was doing it right.
--
Drisana
"Tom & Rita Liesch" <lie...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:9e0qvu$gs6$1...@slb0.atl.mindspring.net...
Kris
What I do to keep my fabric taut is cut 4 pieces of felt...just slightly
smaller than the bars. I place my fabric on the frame, put a piece of the felt
on top, then put my snap in place.
It works wonderfully!!! Plus won't have to worry about snagging your stitching
or fabric with the snaps..:)
Hope that helps ya!!
Kris
WIP:
Bass Fishing by Designs for the Needle (for my dad for Father's Day).
Webpage displaying photos of all my needlework.
Drisana
'traction'. I really DO hate the ring marks the hoop leaves.
--
Drisana
"Kris" <stay...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010517121515...@ng-fi1.aol.com...
InStitches
#1 - If your clamps start to get a bit loose, run them through the top rack
of your dishwasher and let them cool completely. Or you can soak them in
hot water for a few hours to do the same if you don't have a dishwasher.
#2 - In between times, I use some of that Rubbermaid (c) grip-it shelf
liner, cut similar to the felt previously mentioned, between the fabric and
the clamp.
HTH,
--
InStitches [I, too, like my fabric drum tight...LOL!]
"Count twice, stitch once."
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:0bv7gtcmt43gd37pb...@4ax.com...
> I like my fabric drum tight. When I say drum tight, I mean you can play a
song
> on it. Maybe this definition is different to different people, but I have
not
> been able to get my fabric, any kind, to be "drum tight" on Q-Snaps. It
slips
> right out as soon as I start stitching. I am going to use mine when I get
into
> quilting.
>
> Victoria
Drisana
too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
--
Drisana
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:0bv7gtcmt43gd37pb...@4ax.com...
| I like my fabric drum tight. When I say drum tight, I mean you can play a
song
| on it. Maybe this definition is different to different people, but I have
not
| been able to get my fabric, any kind, to be "drum tight" on Q-Snaps. It
slips
| right out as soon as I start stitching. I am going to use mine when I get
into
| quilting.
|
| Victoria
|
|
| On Thu, 17 May 2001 15:46:11 GMT, "Drisana" <dri...@canada.com> wrote:
|
| >Hmmm...I'm really puzzled now. That IS what I was doing. Maybe it's
just a
| >weird piece of fabric...it's not very stiff at all. And I did the same
| >thing with the aida as I did with the evenweave. Oh well, once I'm done
| >this I probably won't be using aida any more anyway.
| >
| >Thanks for your response...at least I know I was doing it right.
|
|
| *****
| "I would have to ask the questioner. I haven't had a chance
| to ask the questioners the question they've been questioning."
|
| - G. Dubya Bush, Jan 8, 2001.
| *****
LBachrach
>What I do to keep my fabric taut is cut 4 pieces of felt...just slightly
>smaller than the bars. I place my fabric on the frame, put a piece of the
>felt
>on top, then put my snap in place.
>
>It works wonderfully!!! Plus won't have to worry about snagging your
>stitching
>or fabric with the snaps..:)
>
If you don't happen to have any felt around, you can use almost any fabric that
has some substance to it. It sure works for me! Another thing you can try is
switching the clamps -- but, really, the felt or fabric should do the trick.
Since discovering Q-snaps, I've gotten rid of those pesky hoops that leave
creases and, even worse, marks. I think you'll feel the same way once you get
accustomed to them. And yes, Victoria, you *can* get the drum-tight. At least
I have!
Lee
Drisana
But I think I have just the thing to put between the clamps and the fabric.
I'm not sure if it's the same stuff you're talking about but it's like a
loosely woven placemat dipped in spongy material. It's meant for putting on
a picnic or patio table. It should be perfect. Thanks for the advise.
--
Drisana
"InStitches" <instit...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ErTM6.205$FW....@newsfeed.slurp.net...
Jill Hebert
hoop marks and didn't have a free set of scroll bars. The stitch tension seemed
to turn out ok, but I didn't like the idea of not having it stretched...plus it
cramps my hand to hold the fabric that way! :)
-Jill
Seanette Blaylock
Poll was Re: Q-Snap Question":
>Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
>too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
>Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
I agree with you - tight as I can get it.
--
Seanette Blaylock
X/USA/H+(Bob)/-/-/1C(HFM Felix)/1F/"Magic in Motion", Laine Gordon/Dimensions /
XNCrTK/A/D/-/SF/-/-/b++/R-/S-/K+/-/P/G/W+/Patrick Stewart, James Earl Jones/Stephen King, Scott
Adams, Erma Bombeck, Jeff Foxworthy/CHOCOLATE! :-)
Liz / Cozit
Drisana wrote:
> Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
> too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
>
> Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
Varies with my current project... though I do have two in q-snaps right now..
and when I have them tight (I loosen... well most of the time.. between
stitching sessions) they're pretty much that tight... sounds like a drum
tight...
*But* I do notice that I occasionally have to twist the clamps a bit to tighten
while I work... and after enough times of doing that, sometimes remove and
replace again as they've worked their way too far around.
I'd suggest you seek either the advice of someone "in person" who has been using
them a while, or see if someone around here has a good picture of how they look
when in use properly. It took me a few tries to figure out how to get the
material settled square, with the clamps in such a way that they'd keep it tight
*and* not put odd pressure in a different place on the material.
-Liz
Jolene
Stitchaway mounts. www.stitchaway.com They really do make the fabric drum
tight. It takes some practice getting the fabric in the groove--I finally
learned to use the blunt end of my Gingher nippers to press it in. The
quality is beautiful, and Fred does everything except come to your house and
set it up for you. You can mail order them from him in CANADA! Jolene
(not affiliated blah blah blah usual disclaimer)
"Drisana" <dri...@canada.com> wrote in message ...
Bobbie Hall
Just be sure to remove that stuff if you lay your project down for a
while, since it might just disintigrate & you'll have plastic stuff in
your project... I'd think a natural fiber fabric might be safer, say
some wool or felt?
Just thinking out loud...
Bobbie
KDLark
>>
I like to pull my fabric tight. Most of the time I use Q-snaps, unless I have
a motif that's small enough to sit in the middle of a hoop with no marks left
to iron out, such as a Christmas ornament. A couple of years ago, I asked my
husband for a scroll frame, thinking "hey, I'm a serious cross-stitcher now, I
need the serious cross-stitcher thing!" The woman at the shop tried to sell
him Q-snaps, but he was a good boy and bought what I wanted. I used it for one
project, and haven't used it again -- I might dig it out later, though. I did
several things wrong that first time, and I want to give it another chance. A
scroll frame just looks so...serious!
Katrina L.
Velvet
>
> Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
> too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
>
> Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
I prefer it tight, as well. I finally got a scroll frame set up that
works for me, and has the fabric nice & tight (so what if the scroll
frame is sideways), and just where I need and want it. But I'm one of
those freaks who also likes having the entire stitching area available
to her, because she doesn't like wasting her valuable stitching time
with repositioning fabric).
--
.|.
- * - Jen Persinger
(\o /|` ** mom to Alyxa Brianna (21 Sept 1997)
(VXV E-Mail: vel...@rootaction.net ICQ: 35217570
/| URL: http://cainan.shutdown.com/~velvet
MiMs2U
can remember, and have hoops in all sizes. My favorite tends to be an ellipse
shaped one.
I tried the Q-Snaps after reading how wonderful they are. I can deal with the
smaller one (8x8), but the bigger sizes are just too big. I also find that the
Q-Snaps get heavy after a while and I feel it in my wrists. Some folks have
suggested I use the QSnaps on a frame, but I'm just not ready to buy get a
frame. Others have told me how they prop the QSnap on their legs or arm of the
chair as they stitch. That's not for me either.
Just wondering if anyone else has this problem with the QSnaps and if there are
any other suggestions.
Thanks!
Mims
Natasha
Natasha
Drisana <dri...@canada.com> wrote in message
news:ZlRM6.136925$_f3.1...@news20.bellglobal.com...
InStitches
That's exactly the stuff I was talking about. Your description is much
better than mine...LOL!
--
InStitches
"Count twice, stitch once."
"Drisana" <dri...@canada.com> wrote in message
news:DLTM6.137757$_f3.1...@news20.bellglobal.com...
InStitches
You are most welcome.
--
InStitches
"Count twice, stitch once."
"victoria" <ani...@animaux.net0> wrote in message
news:0bh8gtk1opm72epfg...@4ax.com...
> Good ideas, thanks!
>
> v
Dianne Lewandowski
embroidery that, more often than not, REQUIRES tightly stretched
grounds. This category includes, but is not limited to: drawn thread,
pulled thread.
I just read an interesting booklet by Pat Allen on crewel embroidery.
She maintains having the ground drum tight at all times. However, I
disagree with this - and wonder how one does stem stitch (for instance)
on drum tight fabric. You can't at all, in some circumstances, and with
some difficulty in other circumstances, work *some* stitches with the
ground absolutely tight. Particularly those stitches which are
naturally done in a sewing motion (thread in/out in one motion). Of
course, different grounds maintain different tensions when mounted, and
I've done these stitches on very tightly stretched fabric - with a
sewing motion. But other grounds prevent this.
Many have learned to do fabulous cross stitch in hand - others prefer a
hoop or frame of some type.
I realize this is a "poll", but I wanted to interject for the simple
reason, those who are reading this newsgroup don't all do cross stitch;
it's not quite clear exactly *what* type of embroidery you're referring
to; and, I wanted to point out that the type of stitching one does may
require a different approach to fabric mounting (or not mounting at
all).
Dianne
Rhiannon wrote:
>
> Rhiannon looked up from petting a cat to read what "Drisana"
> <dri...@canada.com> wrote:
>
> >Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
> >too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
> >
> >Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
>
> Mark me as another "tight as I can get it" member. I broke some of my
> Bill's Frame scroll rods trying to get the tension where I like it
> (the screwy things are made of plastic).
>
> Question re: your aida on Q-Snaps: how much extra fabric are you
> leaving around the edges? Is there enough fabric for the clamps to
> hold on to? IME there should be at least 2" of fabric beyond the
> frame to keep it from slipping.
>
> HTH,
> --
> Rhiannon
>
> rhi...@CATHAIRearthlink.net
> ICQ# 1249904
> AIM Rhicat
>
> WIPs: Mirabilia's Sleeping Beauty, L&L Spiritdancer
> UFOs: My Lady's Garden, The Kiss
> Fini: JN Snow Forest & Have a Heart, SB Valentine Folio
Ericka Kammerer
Drisana wrote:
>
> Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
> too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
>
> Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
I work in hand unless whatever I'm stitching really
requires otherwise. Most of what I do involves a variety
of stitches, some of which are more easily done in hand.
Ericka
--
The return address on this message works, but it goes to an
account I weed out only on occasion. To send me email, send to
my first name dot my last name at home dot com
and watch the spelling ;-)
NormaBM
A thought that came to me is-maybe the fabric isn't large enough for the clamp
to get good hold on to.
I keep my fabric very tight and use q-snaps all the time.
Happy Stitching
Norma
Bill Williams
ever need. Connienews:RGTM6.137721$_f3.1...@news20.bellglobal.com...
Bill Williams
that you get to put on the backs of throw rugs to keep them from slipping.news:DLTM6.137757$_f3.1...@news20.bellglobal.com...
Joyce_in_RSA
Fantastic StitchAway? I'm still waiting (in despair) for mine, but you all
in more civilised countries could have one easily, and from all I've heard,
it's the complete answer to those who like their work really taut. I just
wish I knew someone coming to South Africa who could bring me one, having
waited 5 months so far for one through the post!! Joyce in RSA.
Drisana
section about that big...you get that good feeling when you get to move the
hoop or snaps over to the next section.
--
Drisana
"Rhiannon" <rhi...@CATHAIRearthlink.net> wrote in message
news:k4l8gto7bnob9kud8...@4ax.com...
| Rhiannon looked up from petting a cat to read what "Drisana"
| <dri...@canada.com> wrote:
|
| >Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
| >too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
| >
| >Which makes me wonder...what is everyone else's preference?
|
Drisana
stitch.
--
Drisana
"Dianne Lewandowski" <dia...@heritageshoppe.com> wrote in message
news:3B046BB7...@heritageshoppe.com...
Drisana
pricier and the system bulkier than I can go for right now. I don't want
anything uncomfortable to hold because I like to sit back and cross-legged
while I stitch. It DOES look like an interesting system though, and maybe
in the future I'll try them out.
--
Drisana
"Joyce_in_RSA" <joy...@global.co.za> wrote in message
news:9e2nmu$fm3$1...@ctb-nnrp2.saix.net...
s.e.l
The only time I've ever had problems with Q-Snaps and Aida was when I
purchased a piece of aida from h*ll that had an almost slippery feel to it.
I used the grip-it shelf liner (I have small pieces cut up specifically for
the QSnap emergencies) and it worked perfectly.
Good luck with them though. I wouldn't be without my QSnaps !
Shannon
"InStitches" <instit...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ErTM6.205$FW....@newsfeed.slurp.net...
s.e.l
> Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
> too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
I always have my fabric tight enough to bounce quarters off of - and the
only way I've managed to achieve this, particularly on a large piece, is
using the QSnaps. Hoops work great, but I find they distress or damage
stitches that I've already made on the piece. And roll bars ? Even with an
engineering degree, they're beyond me. LOL - People tell me they're simple,
but things never end up as tight as I want :(
Shannon
«»«»«» My mind works like lightning -- one brilliant flash and it's gone !
«»«»«»
WIP:
Angel of Love (MLI) - WIP
Gillyflower Grace (JN) - WIP
Summer Sampler (MLI) - WIP
StephStitch
>Fantastic StitchAway?
Would someone please tell me what this is and/or provide a link? Thanks.
Stephanie
Alabama
WIP: Alma Lynne's "Noah Found Favor" sampler; Linda Driskell's Blue Bonnet
Spring Sampler
Finished 2001: Kreinik Garden Sampler
Lorri Birmingham "Close to My Heart" bellpull
Jolene
"StephStitch" <steph...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010518100155...@ng-cu1.aol.com...
Di Messina
the clamp on. The material won't slip and stays tight. This works great
for me.
If you're in the US you can find this stuff at places like K-mart,
Wal-mart, and even some building / home centers. If you're outside the US,
and can't find it, let me know and I'll send you a couple strips. I bought
a roll 2 years ago and have been giving pieces away and still have more than
half the roll left. 1 roll will last almost forever unless you have an
awful lot of friends or many many Q-snaps.
Di
Drisana <dri...@canada.com> wrote in message
Drisana
something here. The only stuff I have at home though is blue and I'm going
to watch at first to make sure it doesn't colour the fabric any. IF it
does, I'll head of to Walmart.
--
Drisana
"Di Messina" <dmes...@uswest.net> wrote in message
news:zuaN6.54$IB.1...@news.uswest.net...
Velvet
> I always have my fabric tight enough to bounce quarters off of - and the
> only way I've managed to achieve this, particularly on a large piece, is
> using the QSnaps. Hoops work great, but I find they distress or damage
> stitches that I've already made on the piece. And roll bars ? Even with an
> engineering degree, they're beyond me. LOL - People tell me they're simple,
> but things never end up as tight as I want :(
I should send my DH over to set up your scroll frame! I had a problem
with tension too, until I realized that I had the wrong size bars for
the stuff I was working on! Once I got the right size bars for the
fabric, with a bit of help from DH, everything got set up, and the
fabric is nice & taut! And it's even a cheapie scroll-frame, as well :)
Susan in Alabama
I wanted to point out that the type of stitching one does may
> require a different approach to fabric mounting (or not mounting at
> all).
>
> Dianne
Just so! As a general rule, I like my fabric "rather tight" (my how
equivocal that sounds). But my tools vary based on exactly what I am doing.
And this despite the fact that I do "only" cross stitch and hardanger, with
a fair number of sampler stitches thrown in for variety. I may use different
types of mount, or no mount at all, in the course of the same project --
depending on the varied properties and propensities of the specific stitches
involved. Atually, I factor in both ground fabric and working thread as well.
I've done no formal study of the matter, but I've "learned not to do *that*
again" with a variety of materials. For example, it seems to me that genuine
linen does not require as much tension and in fact responds very badly --
sometimes even unrecoverably :( -- to being overstretched.
Susan
Liz / Cozit
Drisana wrote:
> Sorry about the vagueness. Personally, I was referring to counted cross
> stitch.
Same here... well, mostly... applies to most any work I do in a frame or
hoop.... if I'm using such, I like it to be very taut.
OTOH, I also work in hand occasionally... sometimes more than others. Depends
on the project, where I'll be working on it the most, and how I feel like
working on the project (I've been known to change from in-hand to hoop and back
again at least once on something... and, BTW, you *can't* see the difference (at
least without a magnifying glass... we didn't do that) between the hoop and
in-hand areas on that... even though the material was far from stiff.
-Liz
Dianne Lewandowski
Susan in Alabama wrote:
For example, it seems to me that genuine
linen does not require as much tension and in fact responds very badly
sometimes even unrecoverably :( -- to being overstretched.
Susan
Can you explain more? I'm intrigued <grin>. I mean that sincerely.
Not as a cynic. You see, I try to put things together in my head over
time. This person says only stretch "this" way to do "this"
embroidery. Someone else says "only do it drum tight" or you'll end up
with . . . And still someone else says "too tight and you'll be in
trouble." What I suspect is that certain things, done in certain ways
*might* cause a problem. But some people tend to go overboard and say
"Everything must".
I like your approach. :-)
Dianne
Dianne Lewandowski
But I don't think I saw the first poster - just responses. And in
reading some - I wasn't sure WHAT we were talking about. Q-snaps are
*very* popular with Brazilian embroiderers.
I'll bet you could do other embroidery on aida - though I'm not sure why
anyone would want to :-). I know I use it in my book for practising
other types of stitches having nothing to do with cross stitch. But
that's a stretch.
Not sure whether or not I'm being chastised here - but in any event, I
took it in good humor.
Dianne
Rhiannon wrote:
>
> Rhiannon looked up from petting a cat to read what Dianne Lewandowski
> <dia...@heritageshoppe.com> wrote:
> <snip>
> >
> >I realize this is a "poll", but I wanted to interject for the simple
> >reason, those who are reading this newsgroup don't all do cross stitch;
> >it's not quite clear exactly *what* type of embroidery you're referring
> >to; and, I wanted to point out that the type of stitching one does may
> >require a different approach to fabric mounting (or not mounting at
> >all).
>
> Since the original poster wrote the fabric she was using was Aida, I
> just assumed she was working cross stitch. What other types of
> needlework are done on Aida?
>
> --
> Rhiannon
Susan in Alabama
>
> Can you explain more? I'm intrigued <grin>. I mean that sincerely.
> Not as a cynic.
No offense intended so none taken :) Before I tried linen, I was an
inveterate drum-tight stitcher. When I started on linen, I noted
immediately that neither 2 nor 3 strands of cotton on 28 count seemed
enough. There were gaping holes around every stitch, but for some
reason I envisioned that they would shrink to fit when I washed the
finished piece. Didn't happen. Of course that ultimately left my
stitches looking rather loose, even after stretching and framing. At
the time I also had never stitched in-hand and wasn't quite ready for
another new trick. So I tried changing the tension with my q-snaps
next time out, and it seemed to work better. I don't think my
stitching improved that much in general as I started out with smaller
designs.
(big snip)
But some people tend to go overboard and say
> "Everything must".
Oh yes. I took a beginning hardanger class last fall -- 3 Saturday
mornings. First time out, the teacher got my dander up with her
instructions to stitch only in-hand and only using what she called the
sewing-scoop method. Not only did she add that, of course this is the
only proper way to cross stitch, hence all of us should be doing it
anyway , she even asserted that "sewing-scoop" is the one and only
proper name for the method. Not sewing. Not scoop. Must be
sewing-scoop.
Oh dear.
I actually did as she asked for the class. What did I know about
hardanger? For all I knew she might be right as far as hardanger is
concerned. Now this teacher's own work is absolutely beautiful, and
she does give thorough, comprehensible instructions. But I was pleased
to a most unseemly degree when I discovered that Janet Love, certainly
no slouch, has a philosophy more akin to yours and mine. She doesn't
demand or forbid mounting. She thinks certain stitches lend themselves
to certain methods, explains what she finds best and why, and notes
that in the end, it's a matter of what works best for a particular
stitcher. Much more reasonable!
>
> I like your approach. :-)
Why thank you. Obviously I like yours as well. Great minds and all ...
Susan
Dianne Lewandowski
the details on the holes in the 28-count. Thanks a million!
Dianne
Alison Hendon
feels I guess. When I do surface embroidery or stamped embroidery I
need a hoop. Q-snaps feel too bulky for my hands to hold comfortably.
When I do Hardanger I use a hoop for the Kloster blocks and
needleweaving but take the hoop off to cut the threads.
Alison
Dianne Lewandowski
Normally, the tension slacks after a few stitches - and works just fine
for things like stem/outline, chain, etc. etc. Tambour hoops hold on
better (and I understand Q-snaps do, but I haven't tried them), for
things like satin stitching or pulled, drawn work.
I used to stitch most "regular" embroidery in hand (except stuff like
satin). But I moved to a hoop because I was doing things that required
it (pulled/drawn work). In my humble opinion, one gets used to one or
the other and compensates. I've done cross stitch in linen "in hand",
and although it's not an award-winning piece (my first attempt at
linen), had I known lots of tricks: railroading, gridding first, better
quality linen, it would have turned out much better.
I just met a gal who studied in Norway (Hardangersom), and if I remember
correctly, it's done in hand or with a hoop.
Which brings me to another question: Does anyone know, for sure, why we
English speaking persons dropped the "som" at the end of the name
Hardanger?
Dianne
Karen C - California
>English speaking persons dropped the "som" at the end of the name
>Hardanger?
I've seen it both ways in English language books, so it's probably a matter of
our American passion for shortening things (e.g., in the stitching community,
cross-stitch is generally assumed to mean *counted* cross-stitch unless
specified as stamped) "Som" means sewing or seam. Fair Isle, among
crafters, is assumed to be Fair Isle knitting; Hardanger sewing is equally
redundant.
IIRC, "som" has a slash through the O, giving it one of those odd foreign
pronunciations that native English speakers can't quite get their mouthes
around. Just like the immigration officers changed foreign names they couldn't
spell, Americans tend to change foreign words they can't pronounce. Everyone
in the stitching community knows what Hardanger is, so why stress yourself
trying to pronounce suooeeem? (and being laughed at for getting it wrong)
--
Finished 5/13/01 - 1981 UFO !!!
WIP: getting my health back, Calif Sampler, Holiday Snowglobe
Paralegal - Editor - Researcher
http://hometown.aol.com/kmc528/myhomepage/profile.html
Don't risk your on-line privileges! I report all Spam.
Dianne Lewandowski
"obvious" suffix (is that what you'd call it?) in the english language.
Norwegians also put datter (or is that dotter) at the ends of last names
for married women (think I got that right). Interesting language.
I'm also confused with the word Deutchland. (I'm sure I spelled that
wrong). How on earth did that become Germany?
Dianne
F.James Cripwell
> I'm also confused with the word Deutchland. (I'm sure I spelled that
> wrong). How on earth did that become Germany?
>
> Dianne
When Jill and I lived in Europe, I became very much aware that the
English, particularly, like to call places by *their* names rather that
those used by the inhabitants who actually live there. We lived in
Nederland, which the English insist on calling Holland. I am sure we
could easily say Paree, for the capital of France; but no we say it like
the French spell it, Paris. And so on. Its the same with Deutschland.
That is how the people who live there call their country, but we insist
its Germany; because the Germanic peoples lived there. I feel it would
be nice if we called places the way the inhabitants do. But dont let my
ideas get to Belgium; I would probably be linched!!
--
Jim Cripwell.
Thoughts from a confused philosopher.
If a husband speaks in a forest and his wife does not hear him,
is he still wrong?
Karen C - California
>for married women (think I got that right). Interesting language.
>
JohnsSon, and his daughter is Mary JohnsDottir. Which means that John's
grandson would be Ole PetersSon and his GGS would be Anders OlesSon and his
GGGS becomes John AndersSon. I'm not sure how many of them still follow that.
I do know that in Iceland, the phone book is listed by first names, because
everyone in the family has a different last name. So you'd run down the list
of Vigdis's looking for the one who is her father's daughter.
In Old Russia (again, I am not sure whether it continues to date, since my
informant left Russia around 1945), all generations use the same last name
(women get an A on the end), but your middle name indicated you to be Ivan's
son or daughter. Hence, upon introduction you know that Igor Ivanovitch
Tarasov is the brother of Pyotr Ivanovitch Tarasov, but not of Sergei
Gregorovitch Tarasov.
>I'm also confused with the word Deutchland. (I'm sure I spelled that
>wrong). How on earth did that become Germany?
>
Short Answer:
It's actually the other way around. Back in the days of the Huns and the
Celts, there were also a Germanic people wandering around Europe.
Over the centuries Germany as we know it today evolved from an area under the
control of the scattered Germanic tribes, to a unified division of the Holy
Roman Empire, to a linguistically bound (but politically loose) collection of
dukes and princes, to a nation re-unified under the Kaiser as Deutschland (the
land of the Deutsch speakers, which was really all they had in common after
centuries of division), to post WWI democracy.
The icon (something less than a goddess) Germania has long been the symbol of
the area (think of the early American coins with Lady Liberty in flowing robes
on them; same idea), no matter who's in charge.
The Deutsch name has been around since at least the Holy Roman Empire, when the
area was known as the HRE Deutsche Nation. I'll have to do a little research
to figure out how Deutsch evolved from Germania, since the only similar-looking
word in modern German is deuten (and derivatives), i.e., meaning or
interpretation. Unfortunately, the only German History class available at my
alma mater was "Contemporary Germany, 1945-present", and the origin of the name
wasn't covered, since it was a millennium older than that.
I suspect that Durant's History has the answer, and I also suspect I'll have to
spend quite a bit of time poking around in the volumes to find it.
--
Finished 5/19/01 - 3 bookmarks
WIP: getting my health back, Calif Sampler, Holiday Snowglobe
Paralegal - Editor - Researcher
http://www.craft-searcher.com/kmc/index.html
Alison Hendon
use the stab stitch. But the art nouveau pillowcase I'm doing is all
satin stitch, and it needs to be a little looser because I "sew" that
stitch. The Hardanger can be pretty tight as well, again I "stab"
those kloster blocks (what my teacher recommended and what I would
naturally do anyway).
The only time I have used a hoop for counted cross was when I was
stitching on navy Aida. The hoop really holds the holes open. My
left hand (which holds the fabric) was actually trying to stretch it
to see the holes, so I tried the hoop instead. I got some really nice
German wood hoops from Rose Cottage (I think) at the last CATS show.
I may try using the hoop on the navy Jobelan I'm using now...
Alison
sherlock64
> Drisana had some very interesting things to say about "Fabric Tension
> Poll was Re: Q-Snap Question":
>
> >Darn, I was hoping Q-snaps would be the answer. I like my fabric tight
> >too...I mean so you could bounce a quarter off it tight.
>
Has anyone else tried using the rubbermaid shelf liner (the soft
cushioning stuff that has little holes in it) in small strips beneath
the q snaps...it will help tighten the grip..just don't put too fat a
piece or it will crack the q clamp. I use it especially when the q
snaps are older and tend to get looser..sherlock64
Anna W.
You'll find Fred's website at http://www.stitchaway.com
Anna W. in Tx
"StephStitch" <steph...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010518100155...@ng-cu1.aol.com...
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen
The Nederlanders Speak DUTCH which sound so much close to Deutscland
?????????//it seemsd the first English people visiting Europe could
not make the difference Between German and Nederlands, Tothem it all
sounded the same , And since the Nederlanders were More close to them
They got To be called Dutch speakers !!!!! hahahah
And while we are On This subject may I draw your attention to the fact
that our Capital Is JERUSHALAYIEM and not Jerusalem ,
The Oranges [and cakes] Should be called JaFFO and Jaffa ,
Acre should Be AKKO , Moses Is MOSHE , Abraham Is Aavraham , Izak Is
Yitshak , Jakob is JAAKOV etc..
Joyce_in_RSA
We get the blame for all the ills of the world, these days. Joyce in RSA
(but still British to the core!).
Karen C - California <kmc...@aol.com.LuvXS> wrote in message >
Karen C - California
I didn't say English-speakers were not in the wrong. :)
I agree with Jim's point that we should call people what *they* want to be
called. It's only polite. You like to be called Joyce, and you wouldn't take
nicely to it if I told you that I wanted to call you Elizabeth.
In the case of Germany, there is an explanation for why English chose that
particular name. It doesn't make it any more right than some foreign language
calling RSA "Apartheid Nation" or "Mandela State" on the grounds there's an
explanation for the name.
Dianne Lewandowski
amaze me with their vast knowledge.
Big thanks to Karen for her sharing of historical facts. Wow!
Thanks to Jim. I agree that we (in U.S. or wherever, I guess) shouldn't
be taking something and changing its name. From what I'm gathering, the
literal translation of Hardangersom is Sewing from the Region of
Hardanger. So it makes perfect sense (to me at least) to call it
Hardangersom. Even if we can't readily make the "o" which is peculiar
to their language.
Thanks to Mirjam for pointing out some obvious failings on the English
speaking world. I understand some language differences because some
peculiar letters have to do with pronunciations - some of which we
foreigners can't say on a bet because the "hearing" of language is set
by about the age of two. And some alphabets differ (my last name
doesn't *really* have a "w" in it, nor is it technically pronounced with
a "w" sound).
As a teacher of music, I get pretty perturbed at some public education
music teachers (and private) who teach their young students that a
fermata is a "bird's eye". For heavens sake. Kids can quickly learn
the word fermata as quickly as they can learn my last name (No, I won't
let them call me Mrs. L). By the end of first lesson, they know how to
say it - and smile easily when doing so.
But I digress a bit. This all goes back to a previous post I had about
using proper terminology for needlework - gaining concensus from the
"masters" as to what that actually "is" (sort of like botany's
categorization), and using it henceforth. So before I started using the
word Hardangersom, I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing. I
know some will say, what the heck is the difference. Well - it makes a
BIG difference, I am sure, to the pride of the people who invented it.
Sort of like someone always mispronouncing your last name. A few times
and you smile graciously. Later it becomes irritating.
Dianne
Kay Hahn
Well, like for most people and countries the names mean: The People and The
Place where The People live. Deutsch comes from Old High German "diutisc".
meaning "of the people" deriving from the Indo-Germanic "teu" meaning "to
swell"
over words that mean "crowds" and "people". "Land" is cognate to "land". So it's
the place where the Teutonic peoples live. (Note the plural!) Wow, I
remember that from High School - now ask who the Germanic people were - yes,
absolutely, a tribe living in that area who happened to be Celts. We tend to
forget that that area was originally settled by Celts. Then we had the Romans
and the Tribal Migrations and who knows what. When I retire, I'm going to go
back to school and study early history and language - it's fascinating.
Kay at kh...@cas.org
all usual disclaimers apply .nothing witty here
Elizabeth Acklam
> >Norwegians also put datter (or is that dotter) at the ends of last names
> >for married women (think I got that right). Interesting language.
> >
> At one time all Scandinvian countries did that ... John's son is Peter
> JohnsSon, and his daughter is Mary JohnsDottir. Which means that John's
> grandson would be Ole PetersSon and his GGS would be Anders OlesSon and his
> GGGS becomes John AndersSon. I'm not sure how many of them still follow that.
Yes, all the Scandinavian countries (at least Norway and Sweden) used to
do that. In Norway it would be -soenn (oe = o with /) and -datter and in
Sweden -son and -dotter. Although the English word "son" is "soenn" in
Norwagian, the extension to the names became at some point -sen in
Norway. None of the Scandinavian countries do this any more. I don't
know exactly when this tradition stopped, but in my family this was
probably around 1870, when my great-great-grandfather Paul Rasmussen
(son of Rasmus) had a daughter who also got Rasmussen as her family
name. As a result, all the most
common family names are still of the type Jensen, Larsen, Hansen and so
on, because Jens, Lars and Hans were the most common first names at the
time. The -datter names have of course disappeared, because at a time
all women would take their husbonds family name in marrage.
> I do know that in Iceland, the phone book is listed by first names, because
> everyone in the family has a different last name. So you'd run down the list
> of Vigdis's looking for the one who is her father's daughter.
It is not so strange that they still do this in Iceland although the
Scandinavian countries stopped years ago. You can see the same
development in the languages. IIRC, in Norse time, the old-Nordic (not
certain of correct English term) language developed into East-Nordic
(Swedish and Danish) and West-Nordic (Norwegian, Icelandic and
Faroeish(?) (the language at the Faroe Islands)). These days, due to
geography and history, Norwegian is much more similar to Swedish and
Danish, while I think Icelandic has not had to take the same influence
into the language (and traditions).
Elizabeth
in Oslo, Norway
Elizabeth Acklam
>
> But I digress a bit. This all goes back to a previous post I had about
> using proper terminology for needlework - gaining concensus from the
> "masters" as to what that actually "is" (sort of like botany's
> categorization), and using it henceforth. So before I started using the
> word Hardangersom, I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing. I
> know some will say, what the heck is the difference. Well - it makes a
> BIG difference, I am sure, to the pride of the people who invented it.
I have to say that most Norwegian needleworkers probably has no idea
that Hardangersom is so popular abroad. At least all those I have talked
to that are not active on the internet are amazed about it when I tell
them.
As a Norwegian, I have just seen the fact that Hardangersom is
"Hardanger" in English as an established term. Norwegians would of
course never shorten the word in the same way, because the word
Hardanger is the region, and most Norwegians would not even associate to
the word Hardanger with needlework at all.
I think it is great that you wish to use the proper term, but I have to
say that there are things I have seen in this newsgroup in the 8(!)
years I have been lurking here, that has annoyed me much more than the
term Hardanger. :-) Especially the term Scandinavian has been used in
many strange ways here over the years. And when I read here that
Hardanger is a Scandinavian technique I get just a tiny bit upset,
because Scandinavia and Norway are very different things! (I guess I
should have seen that as my cue to delurk at the time, which I did
not... :-)
Elizabeth
in Oslo, Norway
Dianne Lewandowski
Norway: Is it preferable as Hardangersom, or (like names) is tradition
changing and it is "proper" to just say Hardanger? Is there a general
concensus? Traditional pride? I have read a couple small articles on
how there is a group that is trying to keep the original tradition for
Hardanger[som] alive and well.
You might not know - but if you do, I'd love to hear your take on all
this.
Dianne
Dianne Lewandowski
it here quite well. I thank you very much.
If I understand you, the Norwegians just shrug their shoulders without
malice when told we (U.S.) call it Hardanger <very big grin>.
Tom and I met the loveliest Swedish couple on the Internet about 9 years
ago. They came to visit us. We've lost touch the last couple years,
but shared a good deal for a long time. I also accompanied the Swedish
Glee Club in northern Illinois. What great fun that was. Because the
choral group was aging (no young persons wanted to join) and their
numbers dwindling, a few Norwegians became members. Occasionally there
was rivalry, but most often it was a great group of guys. They
certainly knew how to have fun. I got to hear a LOT of Swedish music -
most of it quite reverent or patriotic. Great stuff.
Dianne
Di Messina
Di
Elizabeth Acklam <e...@nobjects.com> wrote in message
news:3B0ACB8C...@nobjects.com...
Mike & June Huber
For pulled thread work, I use a hoop since that gives me the most evenly
tight fabric. I do work some things in hand, though, so it depends on
the type of stitching and the size of the project.
Someone else mentioned overstretching of fabric, and I have seen this. I
got a set of those new scroll rod side bars (I think by K's Creations)
that have screws on the ends of the side bars to add more tension after
you've tightened the knobs that hold the scroll rods. It's a similar
concept to the screws on the top of Fred's Stitchaway frames. I
discovered that these bars give me a great deal of leverage for
tightening the fabric, but only in one direction--vertically. It's
actually possible to tighten the fabric so much that you distort the
weave. I watch the fabric carefully, and make sure the sides are staying
parallel to the side bars. If they start to "bow in" slightly, I know
I've made the fabric too tight and need to back off the tension a little
bit.
Then there's the Millennium Cutwork Sampler--lots of reticella-ish
cutwork areas. I had the fabric stretched nice and tight in a scroll
frame for the stitches that frame the cutwork areas, but once I started
cutting away the threads in those areas I had to reduce the tension.
Without the full fabric weave to support them, the little "windows"
started to curve. Historically, I believe that this type of work was
often basted to a supporting heavy fabric while the cutwork fillings
were done, and the work was then done "in-hand". That's what I'll
probably do with this one.
One of these days, I'm going to get a slate frame and learn how to
properly mount the fabric on it. According to Linn Skinner (and others),
that's the best way to get drum-tight tension on a piece of fabric in
all directions.
June in Houston