Washing Finished Piece
Mike
The best way to wash your work is in luke warm water, use a very mild
detergent , like Woollite.I haven't had any colors run!
~Mary
ma...@erols.com
Does anyone have any suggestions for washing a finished cross stitch
piece on linen? I'm so afraid of the colors running as I did not wash
the floss before stitching. Also, should I have done so?
Phouka
ma...@erols.com wrote:
: Does anyone have any suggestions for washing a finished cross stitch
: piece on linen? I'm so afraid of the colors running as I did not wash
: the floss before stitching. Also, should I have done so?
I think there are a few trains of thought here...
Me, I rinse only vivid colors, and wash the finished product
in Orvus. (well, my framer does, I'm too petrified to do it
myself)
I've read that Orvus is NOT GOOD for stitching. I've
also heard that you shouldn't wash finished pieces
unless they're soiled...
You'll probably get ten different answers. If the colors
do bleed, just keep rinsing, and it normally comes out
ok.
Robin
--
pho...@frii.com Boulder, CO
Teresa
I just finished washing a 25 yo linen shirt with hand stitching on it.
(Actually I just finished soaking it for a week, while changing the
orvus and water every day.) It came out beautiful!
Teresa/LadyDoc
Karin Langeveld
I use dish soap, too - wouldn't know what Orvus was called here, if it was
available at all...
Be sure to use a clear one, though, not one of those lemon scented ones, I
read somewhere (probably on RCTN <g>) that they can cause metallics to
tarnish.
Karin
Lynn <en...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> I always wash and iron my stuff when I'm done. I also stitch on
t-shirts,
> and they go in the regular wash (cold water).
>
> When I first started stitching, the first two leaflets I bought said, "Do
> **NOT** use Woolite. Use a clear dishwashing liquid." I use Ivory, and
a
> lady at the cross stitch shop told me she uses Dawn. Orvus is supposed
to
> be the best, but I can't ever seem to find it, so I just stick with Ivory
> Liquid.
>
> I have never washed my floss before I started. Also, after washing, roll
> in towels to remove most of the moisture, then iron dry, face down, on
top
> of very thick towels. Keeps the stitches from going flat.
>
> Also, I once washed a piece on Aida and didn't have a chance to iron it.
> Once it dried, it never really looked that "wrinkle-free", so I always
make
> sure I'm not on my way out and have time to complete the whole operation
at
> once.
>
> I've never had a color run; but I hear they can if you do use Woolite, so
> just use your dish soap.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Lynn
>
Lynn
In article <34364f9b...@news.erols.com>,
ma...@erols.com wrote:
>Does anyone have any suggestions for washing a finished cross stitch
>piece on linen? I'm so afraid of the colors running as I did not wash
>the floss before stitching. Also, should I have done so?
>
>
I always wash and iron my stuff when I'm done. I also stitch on t-shirts,
nancy boaz
Blaine & Mary Sauve-Miller wrote:
> time. I've read many places that this is the worst thing to use on
> stitching! There were many posts here some time back on Orvus, and I
> finally bought some and now I swear by it! It's wonderful, there are no
> chemicals in it to eventually discolor the stitching design! My work
> comes out so bright! Mary
I use cold water and Ivory dishwashing liquid, just a few drops and all
marks from your hand's oils and stuff comes right off.
Nancy
J. S. Koster
Larry Rasmussen wrote:
snipped advice on Treasure Wash
> Oh, as an aside, it is very hard to
> find "Orvis" in anything but 55 gallon drums. I've known a few EGA
> and ANG chapters that bought a drum and then decanted it into quart
> jars and sold them to their members. A quart of the stuff should last
> the average stitcher about 10 years.
>
> Best,
>
> Larry
> Lets all practice random acts of kindness
> Visit our Webpage at: http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/6311
My local feed store not only had Orvus in 1 gallon containers, but also
in 1 pound (approx 1 pint) ones as well. Ideal size! I happened to
mention to the clerk what I wanted it for - and another employee said
that he knew of at least one customer who bought it for washing her
woolen yarns. Wonder if that's why they stock the small lots?
Joan K.
Blaine & Mary Sauve-Miller
Dennis & Karen Eichorst
nancy boaz wrote:
>
> Blaine & Mary Sauve-Miller wrote:
> >
> marks from your hand's oils and stuff comes right off.
>
> Nancy
Hi, Nancy, from a former Illini. DH and I left for greener pastures
(actually, hillier ones) in Dec. 1990. He did BS, MS, PhD in Ceamic
Engr., and I got my BA in History, so between the two of us, we walked
over most of the campus. I worked at the Union Book Center back when it
was still in the Union. I miss C-U.
Karen
--
"We did _not_ survive a NUCULAR war! It was a NUCLEAR war! A NUCLEAR
war!"
_____________________________________________
Please remove ".chlorine" from e-mail address to reply
Matthew & Kathy Hoover
In article <01bcd018$983da2e0$2f3f86c2@pc>, h...@euronet.nl says...
> I use dish soap, too - wouldn't know what Orvus was called here, if it was
> available at all...
>
> Be sure to use a clear one, though, not one of those lemon scented ones, I
> read somewhere (probably on RCTN <g>) that they can cause metallics to
> tarnish.
>
> Karin
Kathy
Larry Rasmussen
ma...@erols.com wrote in article <34364f9b...@news.erols.com>...
> Does anyone have any suggestions for washing a finished cross stitch
> piece on linen? I'm so afraid of the colors running as I did not wash
> the floss before stitching. Also, should I have done so?
The best, believe it or not, is a product called "Orvis." It is a soap
used
to wash horses. It can be found at almost any horse farm or stable. A
decent alternative is "Treasure Wash." The real key is that it must be
pH neutral. Never, ever use dishwashing detergent or Woolite. And,
be sure you use distilled water for the wash and the rinses. Wait a
minute, I want to check something........ Okay, I'm back. Tell you what,
I used to distribute Treasure Wash at the SEYG/INRG Charlotte show
for an outfit in Lake Forest, IL. I've still some small sample bottles
left.
If you agree to reimburse me for the mailing costs, I will be glad to send
you some. You don't need much. Oh, as an aside, it is very hard to
Tzarna
I use Orvus. I bought some old stitched linens at an antique shop and
the Orvus got 99% of the crud out and the pieces turned out to be
gorgeous...I gave away most of them as gifts. And my pieces tend to
get dirty because of the cats (no matter what I do....) and it gets
everything out and with a good long overnight soak if need be, the
fabric is clean and soft to the touch and the colors bright.
Stitchery Row recommended it and i've never gone back.
Larry Rasmussen
> Orvus is not pH neutral (although I've seen some
> bootleg decantings incorrectly labelled so).
> Nor is pH neutrality the key to the proper cleansing
> of needlework.
If what you bought is not "pH neutral" then you bought
the "new and improved" Pine scented version."
If you care to drop a line to the Field Museum in Chicago,
where they do some quite extensive textile restoration
including restoring ancient Inca needleworked pieces,
you will soon find out the error of your statement that
pH neutrality is not key to proper cleansing of needlework.
I shan't labor to convince you of your erroneous thinking.
> Unless you want to pick virtually any sewing catalog,
> like Clotilde or G-Street... or walk into virtually any
> decent quilting store... then you can easily find both
> the 8 oz and the 32 oz jars.
Price a 55 gal drum and then compute the number of
quart (32 oz) and half-pint (8 oz) jars you can get from
the drum. You will soon find that you will save a hunk of
money by getting a group together and buying a drum
and decanting it into jars yourself. That will leave the
entire group with funds they could better use to increase
their individual S.E.X.
Owned-by-cats
Mike wrote:
>
> The best way to wash your work is in luke warm water, use a very mild
> detergent , like Woollite.I haven't had any colors run!
> ~Mary
Woolite? I've always heard that Woolite was a no-no! I quit using it
after I had colors run & ruin my brother's birthday present. :-( Orvus
is what I use now, and have seen recommended many many times.
Alicia
remove nospam from addy to reply
--
ali0...@EMAIL.UNCC.EDU (704) 547-3570 Library/Information Services/
Technical Services/Atkins Library/UNC-CHARLOTTE <all standard
disclaimers apply>
"Well-behaved women rarely make history." Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
"Tattooed opinionated soapmaking amazon women RULE!!!"
Lisa Kuney
Fratfrat
I found Christina's explaination of pH very confusing. Seriously, am I
the only one who did? I am a chemist and one of my degrees is in physical
chemistry. I know a good deal about acid base theory but I am not a
conservationist. Neutral pH is well defined but I don't really understand
what is meant by natural pH. I have asked Christina for a good text to
help me and if anyone else would like the information I would be happy to
pass it on.
Lesley C Wright
<Snippage>
> This fact that this property increases at lower temperatures
> with the chemical comprising Orvus is what makes the
> product so wonderful for many conservation projects. Most other
> soap products form more colloidal electrolytes as temperature
> of the solution *increases.*
<more snippage>
Christine,
Do you know of an equivalent product to Orvus that we can get here in the
UK? I have asked people with horses and also in tack shops, and noone here
seems to have heard of it.
I would have emailed but I can't do that unless people have highlighted
email ids in their postings (mailer/browser mismatch but that's company
policy....)
Thanks in advance,
Lesley
Ellen
Elna ... I've been told you use that stuff by the teaspoon to wash a sink
full of stitching...... Maybe now that you have the mother lode we can all
send our stitching to your house for some tender loving after care? :-)
--
Ellen
Elliot Lake, Ontario
A Jewel In The Wilderness
Elna Mullaley wrote in message <343f4d12...@news.primenet.com>...
>I paid 11.75 plus postage for a 7.5 lb container of Orvus (approx 1 gal)
>delivered to my door. Seems reasonable to me.
>Happy stitching, Elna
George Blum
Try reading it again. The natural PH is the PH of an object when in its natural
state. The inside of your mouth is probably not neutral, nor is your skin. Nor
is the ground. Try an experiment. Gather some soil from a few places in your
yard. Not the top soil, dig down a bit. A teaspoon from each place is fine. Mix
it all up and do a soil ananysis. Is it PH nuetral. Mine isn't. Mine is acidic.
That's why we can grow such nice rhodies and azaleas and other acid loving
plants. The soil in our area is naturally acidic. Now take a piece of linen and
check its PH. Do the same for your floss and other materials. If your linen is
natutally PH 6.5 than you want to keep it at 6.5 because that's what mother
nature wants it to be.
PS. Orvus is a shampoo used for large animals. Being a large animal myself, I
find it works fine.
George
Emma
In article <01bcd30f$0be92450$264af682@halibut> "Lesley C Wright" <l.wr...@rl.ac.uk> writes:
>Do you know of an equivalent product to Orvus that we can get here in the
>UK? I have asked people with horses and also in tack shops, and noone here
>seems to have heard of it.
>Lesley
Dear Lesley,
I'm not Christine, but I do know what Orvus is. (I'm a chemist - and I know
far, far too much about soap)
Orvus is a paste made from sodium dodecyl sulfate and water. (Sodium dodecyl
sulfate is also known as sodium lauryl sulfate).
So, if you go to a pet shop, and check ingredients, you should get the same
stuff.
Emma
(who has purified sodium dodecyl sulfate in lab. Argh.)
My real email is coe...@chem.usyd.edu.au
KPaules531
In article <coen.112...@no.spam>, co...@no.spam (Emma) writes:
> Orvus is a paste made from sodium dodecyl sulfate and water.
(Sodium >dodecyl sulfate is also known as sodium lauryl sulfate).
Isn't that what's in shampoo? You don't mean we could use shampoo and get
the same results, do you? Not being a smarta**, just asking an honest question.
JoAnn
KPaules531
In article <19971014023...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
roi...@aol.com (Roisinn) writes:
>Don't you do it! Put down that bottle of Breck or else!
>
><rubberband gun squarely aimed at your nose>
>
You better make that shot count, pardner!
>It's great in theory... but then there's the other stuff including
>in 99% of the shampoos on the market today....some of them
>not so good for needlework....
>
>Christina... who's actually seen a piece of needlework that
>was washed in Pert...
Ewwwwwwwww! Wouldn't that tinge your work green?
Actually, I do use Orvus - the fer-real stuff, not shampoo. I'm not
risking my hours of work on the cheap shampoo I use on my hair.
JoAnn
Nan
KPaules531 wrote:
<snip>
> Actually, I do use Orvus - the fer-real stuff, not shampoo. I'm not
> risking my hours of work on the cheap shampoo I use on my hair.
>
> JoAnn
Recall Consumer Reports doing a shampoo comparison where they had
staffers use different brands. They also handed out diluted
dishwashing liquid to some staffers without telling them it wasn't
shampoo. Guess which "brand" got the best ratings from the staffers?
Yep.
Nan
Marina Salume
*Isn't that what's in shampoo? You don't mean we could use shampoo and get
*the same results, do you? Not being a smarta**, just asking an honest question.
Most shampoos have perfumes and oils in them that could stain your
fabric. Orvus is made to wash horses, which have extremely sensitive
skin, so it has no perfumes or oils in it. It is extremely easy to rinse
out of your fabric also. I use it to hand wash all kinds of delicate
fabric items (and it does a great job on your hair too :-)
--marina
ahe...@dorsai.org
Marina wrote:
>
> Most shampoos have perfumes and oils in them that could stain your
> fabric. Orvus is made to wash horses, which have extremely sensitive
> skin, so it has no perfumes or oils in it. It is extremely easy to rinse
> out of your fabric also. I use it to hand wash all kinds of delicate
> fabric items (and it does a great job on your hair too :-)
OK, that does it, now I have to find Orvus. My partner and I have
fragrance allergies and are always looking for good unscented
shampoo/soap etc. We can use up an 11-gallon drum I'm sure!
Alison
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
KPaules531
>Recall Consumer Reports doing a shampoo comparison where they had
>staffers use different brands. They also handed out diluted
>dishwashing liquid to some staffers without telling them it wasn't
>shampoo. Guess which "brand" got the best ratings from the staffers?
>Yep.
>
>
And your co-workers could actually see their reflections when they looked
at the back of your head!!
JoAnn
boad...@hotmail.com
Shampoo??!! Yeesh, I never would've even thought of that! I use clear
Ivory liquid, though I understand flakes are better. But my local
needlework experts agree that the clear liquid is ok to use, too. I use
lukewarm water, a little suds, soak 10-15 minutes, then rinse rinse
rinse! Is it just me, or does anyone else get that peculiar sense of joy
while you rinse and you see the colors magically get brighter on your
piece?
Beth :)
Washington, DC
In article <19971014225...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
kpaul...@aol.com (KPaules531) wrote:
>
> In article <19971014023...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
> roi...@aol.com (Roisinn) writes:
>
> >Don't you do it! Put down that bottle of Breck or else!
> >
> ><rubberband gun squarely aimed at your nose>
> >
>
> You better make that shot count, pardner!
>
> >It's great in theory... but then there's the other stuff including
> >in 99% of the shampoos on the market today....some of them
> >not so good for needlework....
> >
> >Christina... who's actually seen a piece of needlework that
> >was washed in Pert...
>
> Ewwwwwwwww! Wouldn't that tinge your work green?
>
> Actually, I do use Orvus - the fer-real stuff, not shampoo. I'm not
> risking my hours of work on the cheap shampoo I use on my hair.
>
> JoAnn
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
Stephenie Labovitz
ROTFLMAO..... I actually laughed out loud, sitting at my office desk.
-Stephenie
Latesky1
>And your co-workers could actually see their reflections when they looked
>at the back of your head!!
>
>JoAnn
>
>
>
ROFL!
Melissa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Current Projects: Sunshine and Shadow, Prairie Schooler; South Battery View,
Barbara and Cheryl; Santa of the Forest, MLI; Lamb's Halloween, Earth Threads
Gspring142
I've been using Dawn dish soap, diluted, but just found where I could get a
small amount of Orvus, a catalog called Keepsake Quilting. I actually just
ordered it today.
Greta
AJ Bennett
My framer suggests clear Dawn Dishwashing Liquid. It is best for
removing the oils your hands deposit on the fabric. Ann
Tara wrote:
>
> On 4 Oct 1997 05:22:21 GMT, "Larry Rasmussen" <su...@iu.net> wrote:
>
> >The best, believe it or not, is a product called "Orvis." It is a soap
> >used
> >to wash horses.
>
> Orvus actually. Sold by Proctor & Gamble.
> And I don't believe it's Ph neutral...
>
> (Orvis is a clothing store that does catalogue mail order)
>
> >Oh, as an aside, it is very hard to
> >find "Orvis" in anything but 55 gallon drums.
>
> Actually if anyone goes to a Tack shop, Saddlery shop or a Feed store
> they should be able to get it in 1 gallon containers (spend no more
> than $20 max). It is available mail order from Jeffers
> (1-800-JEFFERS) or KV Vet Supply (1-800-423-8211) as well as other
> equine supply stores.
>
> >A quart of the stuff should last
> >the average stitcher about 10 years.
>
> *nod*
>
> Tara R. Scholtz University of Maryland at College Park
> ta...@wam.umd.edu or ts...@umail.umd.edu McKeldin Library
> =====================================================
> If training has not made a horse more beautiful, nobler in carriage,
> more attentive in his behavior, revealing pleasure in his own
> accomplishment...then he has not truly been schooled in dressage.
> -Col. Handler
dkth...@removemindspring.com
Lynn <en...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>I'm always amazed how different the piece looks after it's been washed an
>ironed! It looks so fresh and fluffy, it's hard to believe that it's the
>same piece I'd been looking at for six weeks.
...or six years.
DebT
---------------------
Please remove "REMOVE" from my email address to reply.
ma...@erols.com
ROTFLMAO Sounds like ME :-D
Robin
Lynn
In article <8769176...@dejanews.com>,
boad...@hotmail.com wrote:
[snip]
>Is it just me, or does anyone else get that peculiar sense of joy
>while you rinse and you see the colors magically get brighter on your
>piece?
>
>Beth :)
>Washington, DC
>
I'm always amazed how different the piece looks after it's been washed an
ironed! It looks so fresh and fluffy, it's hard to believe that it's the
same piece I'd been looking at for six weeks.
Lynn
R. Fingerson
AJ Bennett wrote:
>
> My framer suggests clear Dawn Dishwashing Liquid. It is best for
> removing the oils your hands deposit on the fabric. Ann
I know that I feel squeaky when I wash my hands in Dawn --
I wonder if this can really be good for natural fibers? I
can see that it would word wonders on removing hand oils
and possible staining, but it seems to be pretty harsh
stuff.
Robin
--
pho...@frii.com
http://www.frii.com/~phouka/
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away
Sharyn
I may be a bit slow here, or perhaps too used to taking things
literally. When people say wash it in "clear" liquid, eg clear
dishwashing liquid, do they mean simply one that isn't a cream
dishwashing liquid, or something else?
My dishwashing liquid is green, but it's not cream. So is that clear
or not? I would rather not turn my TW wedding sampler green when I
wash it tonight (before applying the beads; which reminds me, am I
right to wash it before I put the beads on? And should I put the beads
on without the piece on the frame? I've never "done" beads before.)
Sharyn
(this has been worrying me for *days*!)
sha...@caverock.co.nz
S.Mar...@ext.canterbury.ac.nz
boad...@hotmail.com wrote:
>Shampoo??!! Yeesh, I never would've even thought of that! I use clear
>Ivory liquid, though I understand flakes are better. But my local
>needlework experts agree that the clear liquid is ok to use, too. I use
>lukewarm water, a little suds, soak 10-15 minutes, then rinse rinse
>rinse! Is it just me, or does anyone else get that peculiar sense of joy
Stephenie Labovitz
Sharyn wrote:
>
> I may be a bit slow here, or perhaps too used to taking things
> literally. When people say wash it in "clear" liquid, eg clear
> dishwashing liquid, do they mean simply one that isn't a cream
> dishwashing liquid, or something else?
>
> My dishwashing liquid is green, but it's not cream. So is that clear
> or not?
No, that isn't clear. Your green dish liquid obviously has to have some
type of dye/coloring to make it that green color and you don't want to
expose your needlework to that!! Clear liquid is a non-cream,
see-through (without any color) liquid soap. (If it looks like thick
water in a bottle, then it is probably the right dish soap).
Hope you haven't washed that TW yet!!!
As far as "when" to wash, I've heard it both ways. Some people are
afraid that the dyes on their beads will run, so they wash before
applying the beads, others want to make sure that they get out the dirt
after handling the piece after beading. Personally, I would wash before
the beads, so as not to risk the bleeding (again--my own personal
opinion). I also personally like to apply the beads while on a frame
because that helps me keep the piece taut to keep the beads properly
aligned. (I did MLI's Earthdancer and the beads were pretty crowded so
I needed the extra help).
Remember, there are no "bead police", you can do whichever is most
workable for you.
-Stephenie
boad...@hotmail.com
In article <6240nd$b...@wnnews1.netlink.net.nz>,
S.Mar...@ext.canterbury.ac.nz (Sharyn) wrote:
>
> I may be a bit slow here, or perhaps too used to taking things
> literally. When people say wash it in "clear" liquid, eg clear
> dishwashing liquid, do they mean simply one that isn't a cream
> dishwashing liquid, or something else?
>
> My dishwashing liquid is green, but it's not cream. So is that clear
> wash it tonight (before applying the beads; which reminds me, am I
> right to wash it before I put the beads on? And should I put the beads
> on without the piece on the frame? I've never "done" beads before.)
Dear Sharyn,
The "clear" liquid I was referring to is just that...clear. No
color..neither clear green, nor clear yellow, but clear clear. I don't
know if you have this in your local store, but in mine they sell various
popular brands of dish detergents in both clear and regular
formulas...supposedly the clear ones are better for people who have
sensitive skin, etc.
Regarding washing before or after beads, well...I dunno. I've washed
smaller pieces after doing the beads, and have never had a problem, but I
haven't done that with a bigger piece yet. I'll be interested to hear
what responses you get to this question. Good luck with your piece, and
happy beading!
Beth
Washington, DC
Sharyn
boad...@hotmail.com wrote:
>The "clear" liquid I was referring to is just that...clear. No
>color..neither clear green, nor clear yellow, but clear clear. I don't
>know if you have this in your local store, but in mine they sell various
>popular brands of dish detergents in both clear and regular
>formulas...supposedly the clear ones are better for people who have
>sensitive skin, etc.
In NZ supermarkets they appear to care more about being
environmentally friendly than being friendly to sensitive skin. Or
perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Thanks for the explanation
however, now I'll know what to look for. Sorry for being a bit dense!
>Regarding washing before or after beads, well...I dunno. I've washed
>smaller pieces after doing the beads, and have never had a problem, but I
>haven't done that with a bigger piece yet. I'll be interested to hear
>what responses you get to this question. Good luck with your piece, and
>happy beading!
Thank you :-) I'm quite proud of it, and a bit nervous about the
beading. I'm trying to decide whether to use a cross stitch in
attaching the beads, or a half cross. I may have to see how it works
out when I actually try. I have no special beading needles either, I
was thinking of using quilting betweens. I shall report on how this
works, you can count on it!
Sharyn
(listening to the news, which appears to be full of death and murder
and child abandonment this morning :-( )
S.Mar...@ext.canterbury.ac.nz
sha...@caverock.co.nz
Sharyn
>> My dishwashing liquid is green, but it's not cream. So is that clear
>> or not?
>No, that isn't clear. Your green dish liquid obviously has to have some
>type of dye/coloring to make it that green color and you don't want to
>expose your needlework to that!! Clear liquid is a non-cream,
>see-through (without any color) liquid soap. (If it looks like thick
>water in a bottle, then it is probably the right dish soap).
I'm not sure I've seen this in New Zealand, but then I don't tend to
make a habit of going through the dishwashing liquid aisle of the
supermarket and testing each bottle. I think I might go to Ballantynes
(local up-market department store) and see if they have any specialist
things for washing needlework, if not I'll stop off at the supermarket
on the way home and test each and every brand of dishwashing liquid
until I find *the right one*.
>Hope you haven't washed that TW yet!!!
Luckily enough, no... when I got home last night I finished stitching
my initials and the date on it, took it off the frame and stared at it
for a while. Then I decided there was no way I was going to risk
having to give my mother a green wedding sampler (although it would go
with my walls, which are a very light green, it wouldn't go with hers)
and that I'd better wait to hear the wisdom of the group.
>As far as "when" to wash, I've heard it both ways. Some people are
>afraid that the dyes on their beads will run, so they wash before
>applying the beads, others want to make sure that they get out the dirt
>after handling the piece after beading. Personally, I would wash before
>the beads, so as not to risk the bleeding (again--my own personal
>opinion). I also personally like to apply the beads while on a frame
>because that helps me keep the piece taut to keep the beads properly
>aligned. (I did MLI's Earthdancer and the beads were pretty crowded so
>I needed the extra help).
I was thinking of washing before the beads to make sure the beads
wouldn't come off in the wash. I'd never even considered that the dye
might come out of beads. I think I'll wash before the beads though, to
make sure! It will be interesting over the weekend to see how all
these new things go - although I've finished things before I've
generally handed them over to my mother to wash and frame for me, but
as I earn more than she does now I decided it's time I did it all
myself! (plus it's for her - can't really make her wash and frame a
gift...)
>Remember, there are no "bead police", you can do whichever is most
>workable for you.
It's just intimidating the first time, and on something that has had
so much work in it. I've worked on this off and on for a year and a
half and it's finally nearly done. And it looks so *wonderful* I was
almost in raptures watching it. Although then I started thinking,
hmmm, I could have done this section a bit smoother and I wonder what
this would look like done with a laying tool...
Oh well, thanks for the advice, I'm in the middle of TWs Castle
Sampler for my husband and he's complaining that that has taken me
over 2 years, so I'd better get on to that next! I'm also going to
start a pattern with ducks and ducklings that my secret pal sent me.
I'm thinking of doing it on linen rather than lugana, too. So many
challenges, so little time...
Sharyn
S.Mar...@ext.canterbury.ac.nz
sha...@caverock.co.nz
Latesky1
>>same piece I'd been looking at for six weeks.
>
>
>
>DebT
>-
Deb
ROFLMAO! I just finshed a piece I have been working on off and on since 1989.
Melissa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
boad...@hotmail.com
In article <625vmv$m...@wnnews1.netlink.net.nz>,
S.Mar...@ext.canterbury.ac.nz (Sharyn) wrote:
<snip>
> beading. I'm trying to decide whether to use a cross stitch in
> attaching the beads, or a half cross. I may have to see how it works
> out when I actually try. I have no special beading needles either, I
> was thinking of using quilting betweens. I shall report on how this
> works, you can count on it!
>
> Sharyn
> (listening to the news, which appears to be full of death and murder
> and child abandonment this morning :-( )
> S.Mar...@ext.canterbury.ac.nz
> sha...@caverock.co.nz
Hi again, Sharyn! I'm fairly new to beading, (just a few here and there
so far) but I use a full "x" when I do it. It seems to be working so
far... I put the bead on the second half of the "x". Anyway, FWIW,
thought I'd tell you this... I've heard of several ways to bead, but this
just seemed like the most secure to me.
Don't you just hate the news lately? I've been avoiding it the past
couple of days....
Beth :)