Stumpwork v Raised Embroidery (Raised Work)
Murraysl
The naming of Raised Embroidery (Raised Work) to Stumpwork is heavily
documented in Victorian times the name "Stumpwork is 19th Century". Prior to
that household accounts from Great houses in the UK often itemised wooden
caskette with embroidered, or just embroidered panels.
The popularity for working Raised Embroidered figurative panels for boxes,
picture frames etc. was very short 1630 - 1660 and were the last project for
embroidery education in the UK. These panels were often started when the
emboiderer was only 9-11 years old and took about 2 years to complete. The
embroiderer had already worked a basic sampler by the age of 6, and had
mastered whitework and needlelace stitches before commencing raised embroidery
work.
The clothes on the figures were worked seperately in needlelace (which is a
fabric of stitches) which were then used to dress the figure leaving
drapes/folds where desired. Felt or wood were worked over with satin stitch to
give raised edges for example window frames. Hands and feet of figures were
often carved in wood and wrapped with thread (wire was also used). Bodies of
people, cats and animals were usually stuffed with wadding. Pots were worked
on canvas and applied (slips). Stones and hills were worked with at least 5
layers of felt and covered with french knots (yes stitching though all layers
of felt).
I know Dianne disagrees with me on the name "Raised Embroidery" and references
Jane Nicols. However, in the UK "Raised Embroidery" is the correct term: My
refernces Margaet Swain, Pamela Warner, Barbara & Roy Hurst, V&A, Kathleen
Epstein Staples wrote a good article for Vol 19 Sampler & Antique Needlework
which is a USA publication.
Here is another area of "hot contention" Button Hole stitch used for
needlelace should it be known as blanket stitch? Marion Scoular is striving
for this rename as many people work taylors button hole (which has a twist) and
is incorrect for needle lace. (I believe the Royal School of Needlework, UK is
also voting on this one :-). )
:-)
I love debating Sandra
JDTHMLLR
also voting on this one :-). >>
So what does it really matter? These kinds of discussions generally generate
more heat than light.
Judith
Sheena Mackenzie
Sheena.
JDTHMLLR wrote:
> << (I believe the Royal School of Needlework, UK is
> also voting on this one :-). >>
>
Dianne Lewandowski
"stumpwork" was through Jane Nicholas book. Then I was pointed to
(through a long ago post) Elizabethan Embroidery, which I thought looked
suspiciously like that from Nicholas, only with a different "style". By
the way, from other research, those Victorians sure knew how to make up
new names for things!! Makes it tough, sometimes, when trying to look
up stuff.
Haven't a clue where it got its name. Hadn't bothered to look it up.
Thanks much for the references.
Here's a few I have gathered up this morning.
Jane Nicholas: "Many examples of this heavy, padded, raised embroidery,
[17th century] now known as stumpwork . . ."
P. Clabburn: stumpwork - see raised work <big grin>
Raised work - "(embossed work, stump work, cut canvas work, embroidery
on the stamp). . . 17th century when it was called raised or embossed
work, later became known as embroidery on the stamp and later still
(during the 19th century) stump work, though why is unclear."
Gay Swift Batsford (UK publication) - stumpwork - "embroidery on the
stamp), 17th century, largely belonging to Britain . . . Raised
embroidery was practised widely on the Continent and especially in
Germany as part of the Gothic striving towards realism. Metal thread
stitchery was worked over high paddings of closely structured wadding or
carved wooden blocks. Britain clung to the tradition of opus
anglicanum, and relief work appeared only minimally during the early
years of the reign of Henry VIII . . ."
So it would seem between our resources that either stumpwork or raised
embroidery is a correct term to use, with "raised embroidery" or
"embroidery on the stamp" having the longest-life. Like stitches, we'll
just have to put down a name, and include, in perenthesis, their other
well-known names.
Actually, there *is* a twisted stitch in needlelace. But, of course,
it's not like the tailor's buttonhole. "Buttonholing" is in such common
useage, that it would be almost impossible to change the nomenclature.
Marian Scoular's essay is on my website. But I DO feel that it's
important that embroiderers know the difference between blanket stitch
and buttonholing. And I DO think that authors and teachers should point
it out.
This was a good question/subject worthy of further digging in. Thanks,
Sandra!
Dianne