Forming wire mesh cloth - how to compress a cylindrical shape?
Royston Vasey
I'm forming some wire mesh cloth - that part is going ok.
The finished part needs to be compressed to fit into a pvc part - working it
in by hand results in scratching and marking of the pvc. I'm looking for
some ideas on how to compress the mesh part so it slips cleanly into the pvc
part. There's a few pics in the dropbox:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/wire_screen.pdf
Spehro Pefhany
Stuff it into a stubby thin-walled open-ended tube (maybe with a ring
or other handle at one end) shove the tube into the PVC and then
withdraw the tube while pushing against the top of the screen so it
stays seated in the PVC.
(Sort of how I imagine how a tampon applicator would work).
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
Jim Wilkins
Could you hold it on the outside of the PVC with a press-on stainless
sleeve? Maybe cut a groove and wind wire around the screen to squeeze
it in, then press the sleeve on to cover and secure the sharp ends. Or
perhaps you can find a stainless key ring the right size.
A retaining sleeve on the inside could split the pipe.
If it really has to be inside maybe you could fold the rim back over
itself over a tube mandrel before cutting it so it would snap into an
internal groove.
jsw
dca...@krl.org
My thought would be to compress it around a mandrel. My first thought
was using a ratcheting cargo strap, but chucking the mandrel in the
lathe and wrapping rope around it might work well. Sort of how one
makes springs on a lathe using something in the tool post to control
the tension in the rope. Still another idea would be using something
like a single wheel knurling tool to force the wire against the
mandrel.
Dan
Royston Vasey
"Spehro Pefhany" <spef...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in message
news:6140n5ta66k9dm1e4...@4ax.com...
Yeah, I toyed with that idea - like some of the old piston ring compressor
sleeves for auto engines. The open end needs to be squeezed a little smaller
than 16mm OD but the flat top end OD is fixed at 16mm and wouldn't fit
through.
Royston Vasey
"Jim Wilkins" <kb1...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f8905e89-23c3-4d15...@d27g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
jsw
You've given me an idea Jim, maybe I should "trepan" a slot into the end of
the PVC, fill it with urethan and just push the screen into the urethane.
Cheers.
_________
|_
/------ _]
| |
| --->
| |_
\------ _]
|_________
Royston Vasey
<dca...@krl.org> wrote in message
news:dba296a0-0541-4283...@o26g2000vbd.googlegroups.com...
Dan
Mmm, thanks Dan, its only 16mm ( 5/8") in size - your approach is what I'd
thought of if it was bigger - kind of like a mini strap wrench or band style
ring compressor.
Jim Wilkins
> ...
> You've given me an idea Jim, maybe I should "trepan" a slot into the end of
> the PVC, fill it with urethan and just push the screen into the urethane.
> Cheers.
> _________
> |_
> /------ _]
> | |
> | --->
> | |_
> \------ _]
> |_________
That's how the hydraulic tank pickup filters that Northern sells are
assembled. I know because I had to glue one back together.
jsw
Bob Engelhardt
> "Spehro Pefhany" wrote
>> Stuff it into a stubby thin-walled open-ended tube ...
> ... the flat top end OD is fixed at 16mm and wouldn't fit
> through.
Do you *any* leeway here? If the flat top end could be 14mm, say, it
would work nicely. The forming bar & die could be tapered & would work
better than the straight ones.
Bob
David Billington
a block of suitable material, maybe 15.5mm in diameter, and suitably
deep. Have it split down the middle. Place the wire form in to compress
it then fill the recess with water and freeze it. When frozen remove the
former and drop the wire form and ice slug into your PVC part and allow
the water to thaw.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:xradnYewEuoziu3W...@westnet.com.au:
> Yeah, I toyed with that idea - like some of the old piston ring
> compressor sleeves for auto engines. The open end needs to be squeezed
> a little smaller than 16mm OD but the flat top end OD is fixed at 16mm
> and wouldn't fit through.
Sure it will Roy...
Make the "sleeve" out of multiple petals of thin sheet stock. Push the
screen home, then slide out the shims one at a time.
LLoyd
axolotl
> I'm forming some wire mesh cloth - that part is going ok.
>
> The finished part needs to be compressed to fit into a pvc part - working it
> in by hand results in scratching and marking of the pvc. I'm looking for
> some ideas on how to compress the mesh part so it slips cleanly into the pvc
> part. There's a few pics in the dropbox:
Tighten a hose clamp around it.
Kevin Gallimore
whit3rd
> I'm forming some wire mesh cloth - that part is going ok.
>
> The finished part needs to be compressed to fit into a pvc part - working it
> in by hand results in scratching and marking of the pvc. I'm looking for
> some ideas on how to compress the mesh part
One approach is to fix the wide end by electroplating, so it doesn't
expand when removed from the mandrel. Keeping a mesh in shape
this way is a standard tactic (among makers of electron lenses for
scanning electron microscopes, anyhow).
Royston Vasey
"David Billington" <d...@djbillington.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4b70363d$0$2480$db0f...@news.zen.co.uk...
Neat - no good for me but its a good idea.
Royston Vasey
"axolotl" <munge...@shorecomp.com> wrote in message
news:hkq4j5$hi4$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
A bit too big - gives me the idea of a small cable tie maybe.
dan
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Mon, 8 Feb 2010 21:07:21 +0800:
If the PVC piece is bored through, I would try using a piece of cloth.
Push the piece of cloth part way through, then put the screen part in
place. Pull the cloth from the other end, and it should drag the
screen with it. When in place, hold back on the screen part, and
continue pulling the cloth out. A hole in the cloth would allow a bar
to push against the inside end of the screen part, holding it in
place.
--
Dan H.
northshore MA.
Larry Jaques
<roy...@vasey.com> scrawled the following:
Think "tampons", Royston. <vbg> How about a teflon sleeve with an OD
the size of the ID of the PVC to help guide the screen in?
Or a pair of spring steel guides on sticks, curved tongs if you will.
Questions: Do you later "inflate" the cup back to full inside
diameter? What do you use to secure it to the PVC? And, last but not
least, whatever are these used for?
Another thought: If you were to compress the cup closer to final
diameter, it might be easier to work with. It appears to have lots of
gaps between the folds and OD.
--
We don't receive wisdom; we must discover it for ourselves
after a journey that no one can take for us or spare us.
-- Marcel Proust
Larry Jaques
<spef...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> scrawled the following:
>On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 21:07:21 +0800, the renowned "Royston Vasey"
><roy...@vasey.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm forming some wire mesh cloth - that part is going ok.
>>
>>The finished part needs to be compressed to fit into a pvc part - working it
>>in by hand results in scratching and marking of the pvc. I'm looking for
>>some ideas on how to compress the mesh part so it slips cleanly into the pvc
>>part. There's a few pics in the dropbox:
>>
>>http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/wire_screen.pdf
>
>Stuff it into a stubby thin-walled open-ended tube (maybe with a ring
>or other handle at one end) shove the tube into the PVC and then
>withdraw the tube while pushing against the top of the screen so it
>stays seated in the PVC.
>
>(Sort of how I imagine how a tampon applicator would work).
Great minds think alike, Pete. <g>
Royston Vasey
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:9ei1n5po26hj41pr3...@4ax.com...
Everytime I think tampons I'm reminded of UK's Prince Charles bugged phone
call where he told I think it was Camilla Gorilla his bit on the side at the
time that he "wished he was her tampon" - a nasty thought! :|
The tongs is a good idea - I just made something similar using some
crimpers:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/wire_screen_tool.pdf
Once in place the screen springs back quite a bit, I still need some
urethane - maybe sika 191, 293 ?? The black marine stuff anyway, that works
really well on most things. The screen is a shield over a humidity sensor -
to stop fingers and look nice more than anything else. I don't think there
is a way to eliminate the folds and extra mesh / cloth. The cloth doesn't
want to stretch enough so a degree of folding results.
cheers.
Larry Jaques
<roy...@vasey.com> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>news:9ei1n5po26hj41pr3...@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 21:07:21 +0800, the infamous "Royston Vasey"
>> <roy...@vasey.com> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>
>>>I'm forming some wire mesh cloth - that part is going ok.
>>>
>>>The finished part needs to be compressed to fit into a pvc part - working
>>>it
>>>in by hand results in scratching and marking of the pvc. I'm looking for
>>>some ideas on how to compress the mesh part so it slips cleanly into the
>>>pvc
>>>part. There's a few pics in the dropbox:
>>>
>>>http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/wire_screen.pdf
>>
>> Think "tampons", Royston. <vbg> How about a teflon sleeve with an OD
>> the size of the ID of the PVC to help guide the screen in?
>>
>> Or a pair of spr
>
>ing steel guides on sticks, curved tongs if you will.
>>
>> Questions: Do you later "inflate" the cup back to full inside
>> diameter? What do you use to secure it to the PVC? And, last but not
>> least, whatever are these used for?
>>
>> Another thought: If you were to compress the cup closer to final
>> diameter, it might be easier to work with. It appears to have lots of
>> gaps between the folds and OD.
>
>Everytime I think tampons I'm reminded of UK's Prince Charles bugged phone
>call where he told I think it was Camilla Gorilla his bit on the side at the
>time that he "wished he was her tampon" - a nasty thought! :|
Heh heh heh.
>The tongs is a good idea - I just made something similar using some
>crimpers:
>
>
>http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/wire_screen_tool.pdf
Ah, good!
>Once in place the screen springs back quite a bit, I still need some
>urethane - maybe sika 191, 293 ?? The black marine stuff anyway, that works
>really well on most things. The screen is a shield over a humidity sensor -
>to stop fingers and look nice more than anything else. I don't think there
>is a way to eliminate the folds and extra mesh / cloth. The cloth doesn't
>want to stretch enough so a degree of folding results.
Have you tried a press in the shape of those tongs? Place screen cup
over mandrel and compress vigorously with tons of force to 'set' the
folds tighter.
Alternatively, have you thought of just using a disc of screen and a
slightly longer piece of PVC, dadoing in the flat screen piece? You
could even use a heftier screen gauge to keep fingers from damaging
it.
Royston Vasey
I don't have much in the way of machinery so I've made do with what I have.
The wire is 316 stainless and is quite "springy". An arbor press is on my
wish list (along with a mill, guillotine, panbrake..........)
> Alternatively, have you thought of just using a disc of screen and a
> slightly longer piece of PVC, dadoing in the flat screen piece? You
> could even use a heftier screen gauge to keep fingers from damaging
> it.
>
I can't quite visualise what you mean. I've tried a few different
arrangements, the one I have come up with seems to be the best in terms of
being simple to manufacture with the tools I have to hand.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
So why not use something ready-made, like this?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#suction-strainers/=5qqxb3
Part # 44265K24
Poly large-particle suction screen.
LLoyd
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:Xns9D1A6111CA679ll...@216.168.3.70:
Or, more like what you're making -- part # 98755K15
LLoyd
Royston Vasey
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9D1A616265D79ll...@216.168.3.70...
Thanks Lloyd, I looked & looked and could not find anything off the shelf
that would work. It's hard to get the right mix of size / appearance & cost.
Now I've got it sorted the they should cost me ~ $0.10 each.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
I mailed you off-list with a suggestion, and the mail has bounced. Did
you see the post about making an insertion sleeve out of several
"leaves" of shim stock? After insertion, you draw out the leaves one-by-
one, so the diameter of the "crown" doesn't matter.
LLoyd
Royston Vasey
Sorry Lloyd the email address is bogus. The external compressor approach
seems to work ok. I can see how your suggestion of individual leaves would
work, but in my case it may be problematic as the cup will sit into gooey
urethane glue - the fingers may pull this out as they are withdrawn. Thanks
for the suggestions Lloyd (& all others)
Larry Jaques
<roy...@vasey.com> scrawled the following:
>>>Once in place the screen springs back quite a bit, I still need some
>>>urethane - maybe sika 191, 293 ?? The black marine stuff anyway, that
>>>works
>>>really well on most things. The screen is a shield over a humidity
>>>sensor -
>>>to stop fingers and look nice more than anything else. I don't think there
>>>is a way to eliminate the folds and extra mesh / cloth. The cloth doesn't
>>>want to stretch enough so a degree of folding results.
>>
>> Have you tried a press in the shape of those tongs? Place screen cup
>> over mandrel and compress vigorously with tons of force to 'set' the
>> folds tighter.
>
>I don't have much in the way of machinery so I've made do with what I have.
>The wire is 316 stainless and is quite "springy". An arbor press is on my
>wish list (along with a mill, guillotine, panbrake..........)
Got a 1T arbor press? It might do the trick, but you'd still need
dies.
>> Alternatively, have you thought of just using a disc of screen and a
>> slightly longer piece of PVC, dadoing in the flat screen piece? You
>> could even use a heftier screen gauge to keep fingers from damaging
>> it.
>
>I can't quite visualise what you mean.
Think flat water faucet screen shape, glued into a dado in the end of
the pvc fitting.
> I've tried a few different
>arrangements, the one I have come up with seems to be the best in terms of
>being simple to manufacture with the tools I have to hand.
OK. Then maybe the next best thing would be to use a stainless hose
clamp to better smooth out the wrinkles over the arbor. That in
itself may make insertion into the pvc fitting easier.
--
In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are
needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And
they must have a sense of success in it.
-- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850
Steve Ackman
That's definitely a wrong way of doing it.
roy...@vasey.invalid is one possible way of doing it
correctly.
--
☯☯
Unlimited webspace - Unlimited bandwidth
http://www.dreamhost.com/r.cgi?74713
Bob Engelhardt
> In <Ec2dnWidZotCOu_W...@westnet.com.au>, on Wed, 10 Feb 2010
> 20:34:34 +0800, Royston Vasey, roy...@vasey.com wrote:
>> Sorry Lloyd the email address is bogus.
>
> That's definitely a wrong way of doing it.
>
> roy...@vasey.invalid is one possible way of doing it
> correctly.
>
Why?
Steve Ackman
The wrong way is to use a domain you don't have
permission/authority to use... thereby causing mail
servers to deal with a lot of Usenet generated spam.
A right way is to use the .invalid top level domain
because the mail doesn't actually go anywhere. You
infringe on nobody's servers.