B&S/Ramoc 618 Surface Grinder Question
Gunner Asch
The front ways are 10 roller bearings layed out horizontally in a
matching groove, held seperated by a length of brown material
(nylon?)..5 notches to the right, 5 to the left.
The rear ways are diamond shaped...there are 10 rollers there as well,
but they are in a diaginol 45degree orientation.
Question...are they supposed to be all in the same direction, or are
they supposed to alternate, back/front/back/front etc?
I loaned it to a shop a couple years ago, they finally got an automatic
grinder and I got it back over the weekend. But the brown material with
the 5 notches, left and right, hat keeps the rollers seperated at the
rear ways is gone, and the roller bearings were laying in the bottom of
the ways case. They sent it over to me in a pickup and they had
not..not..not tied the table down, the assholes..and the table was
hanging nearly off the ways.
I can make a new spacer, with the 5 right, and 5 left notches..but I
need to know how the rollers are supposed to be oriented. Ive got some
very thin fiberglass sheet that will make the spacer.
Anyone got a surface grinder with roller bearings in the ways can lift
the back of the table up and let me know how they are supposed to be
oriented?
Thanks
Gunner
Cliff
>I can make a new spacer, with the 5 right, and 5 left notches..but I
>need to know how the rollers are supposed to be oriented. Ive got some
>very thin fiberglass sheet that will make the spacer.
Fiberglass in grinder ways & bearing surfaces is a great idea.
Leave it to gummer ...
--
Cliff
Randy
wrote:
>Ive got a Ramco 618 copy of the Brown and Sharpe 618 surface grinder.
They should be a crossed roller design, and I have to agree with
Cliff, fiberglass woud be bad for this app. The original was most
likely nylon or similar they turned brown from age and oil.
Use a plastic without any type of fibers in it.
Thank You,
Randy
Remove 333 from email address to reply.
Randy
wrote:
>Ive got a Ramco 618 copy of the Brown and Sharpe 618 surface grinder.
>
>The front ways are 10 roller bearings layed out horizontally in a
>matching groove, held seperated by a length of brown material
>(nylon?)..5 notches to the right, 5 to the left.
>
>The rear ways are diamond shaped...there are 10 rollers there as well,
>but they are in a diaginol 45degree orientation.
>
>Question...are they supposed to be all in the same direction, or are
>they supposed to alternate, back/front/back/front etc?
>
look for shiny wear patterns and you should be able to tell how they
were in there.
Joseph Gwinn
Gunner Asch <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ive got a Ramco 618 copy of the Brown and Sharpe 618 surface grinder.
>
> The front ways are 10 roller bearings layed out horizontally in a
> matching groove, held seperated by a length of brown material
> (nylon?)..5 notches to the right, 5 to the left.
Might be Rulon.
Joe Gwinn
Ned Simmons
wrote:
>Ive got a Ramco 618 copy of the Brown and Sharpe 618 surface grinder.
>
>The front ways are 10 roller bearings layed out horizontally in a
>matching groove, held seperated by a length of brown material
>(nylon?)..5 notches to the right, 5 to the left.
>
>The rear ways are diamond shaped...there are 10 rollers there as well,
>but they are in a diaginol 45degree orientation.
>
>Question...are they supposed to be all in the same direction, or are
>they supposed to alternate, back/front/back/front etc?
If it's a typical crossed roller way arrangement, they alternate.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f3/Rail-guides_DIN644_crossed-roller.png
>
>I can make a new spacer, with the 5 right, and 5 left notches..but I
>need to know how the rollers are supposed to be oriented. Ive got some
>very thin fiberglass sheet that will make the spacer.
The original was almost certainly some flavor of cotton phenolic
(Micarta, Textolite, etc.) I've seen brass used as well. Fiberglass is
too abrasive.
>
>Anyone got a surface grinder with roller bearings in the ways can lift
>the back of the table up and let me know how they are supposed to be
>oriented?
My grinder has balls in v-ways, so isn't much help as a reference.
--
Ned Simmons
Gunner Asch
>>I can make a new spacer, with the 5 right, and 5 left notches..but I
>>need to know how the rollers are supposed to be oriented. Ive got some
>>very thin fiberglass sheet that will make the spacer.
>
>The original was almost certainly some flavor of cotton phenolic
>(Micarta, Textolite, etc.) I've seen brass used as well. Fiberglass is
>too abrasive.
Makes sense to me. Brass would be fairly easy to come by and work.
I dont use it all that much, couple times a month, but when I need it..I
need it.
Thanks!!!!
Gunner
Gunner Asch
Thank YOU!!
Gunner
Gunner Asch
wrote:
>In article <u7t7s5h0mglnq220e...@4ax.com>,
> Gunner Asch <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Ive got a Ramco 618 copy of the Brown and Sharpe 618 surface grinder.
>>
>> The front ways are 10 roller bearings layed out horizontally in a
>> matching groove, held seperated by a length of brown material
>> (nylon?)..5 notches to the right, 5 to the left.
>
>Might be Rulon.
I might be able to use brass as someone else mentioned.
Much obliged!!
Gunner
"D"
> On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:00:07 -0400, Joseph Gwinn <joegw...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >In article <u7t7s5h0mglnq220ep17shjop61255d...@4ax.com>,
>
> - Show quoted text -
used to build expanding machines, we used teflon to seperate the pins,
keeps them apart, and leaves a little of itself on the pins, made the
whole thing run smoother
"D"
d...@kbrx.com
binding resulted along with noticable deposits. Next spacer was made from
aluminum - worked much better.
Hul
Gunner Asch
wrote:
Thanks!
I wacked one out about an hour ago, out of 1/8" acrylic plastic, cut the
roller "holes" out with a Dremal tool and tested it after cleaning
everything up. A bit rough for 10 passes, then smoothed right out. In
fact..I hit the 6x18" chuck a pass, shaved off a pencil mark to true
it..and its looking really good.
I dont expect the acrylic to last years and years..but it should do the
job for a while until I can make a proper one. Wound up missing one
roller, sigh..but left one of the center holes open and it will work.
Thanks all for your advise.
Gunner
Cliff
A dark colour probably indicates a graphite or molybdenum disulfide
self-lubricating filler in the self-lubricating plastic (Nylon is a good bet).
>Use a plastic without any type of fibers in it.
He's so smart ..... perhaps a nice cement ....
>
>Thank You,
>Randy
>
>Remove 333 from email address to reply.
--
Cliff
Randy
wrote:
>On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:11:03 -0400, Ned Simmons <ne...@nedsim.com> wrote:
>
>>>I can make a new spacer, with the 5 right, and 5 left notches..but I
>>>need to know how the rollers are supposed to be oriented. Ive got some
>>>very thin fiberglass sheet that will make the spacer.
>>
>>The original was almost certainly some flavor of cotton phenolic
>>(Micarta, Textolite, etc.) I've seen brass used as well. Fiberglass is
>>too abrasive.
>
>
>Makes sense to me. Brass would be fairly easy to come by and work.
>
>
My 1939 Cincinnati T&C grinder is balls in Vee ways, and it used a
brass spacer. I would guess plastic is just a more modern cheaper
alternative to brass.
Jerry Wass
reinforcing---Have seen gobs of it in ball bearings---Jerry
Cliff
>I vote for the phenolic spacer--paper or linen is the usual
>reinforcing---Have seen gobs of it in ball bearings---Jerry
A note on Nylon.
It picks up water & swells; IIRC it can pickup up
to 10% by weight ... probably not for use in critical
applications exposed to water-based fluids.
--
Cliff