sharpening round pointed punches
Grant Erwin
punch and then follow that up with an automatic center punch and then
maybe a hand punch driven by a 2# hammer if I need a pronounced mark.
My 2 automatic center punches are both exceedingly dull. One is made by
Starrett, the other General. Both punch tips are replaceable, and yes, I
know how to do that. They use identical threads, maybe 10-32 (haven't
measured them) so I could make up a pin with a threaded hole so I could
mount the tips in a collet.
Short of a toolpost grinder, is there a good way to repoint the old tips?
The ideal way to do it would be to set up the tips in a motorized toolhead
on a tool & cutter grinder with a cup stone, but even when I had a T&C
grinder I didn't have a motorized toolhead.
GWE
DeepDiver
news:117vvgq...@corp.supernews.com...
>
> My 2 automatic center punches are both exceedingly dull. One is made by
> Starrett, the other General. Both punch tips are replaceable, and yes, I
> know how to do that. They use identical threads, maybe 10-32 (haven't
> measured them) so I could make up a pin with a threaded hole so I could
> mount the tips in a collet.
>
> Short of a toolpost grinder, is there a good way to repoint the old tips?
> The ideal way to do it would be to set up the tips in a motorized toolhead
> on a tool & cutter grinder with a cup stone, but even when I had a T&C
> grinder I didn't have a motorized toolhead.
Since these tips are for hand-held center punches, the points don't have to
be perfectly centered with respect to the longitudinal axis of the punch (as
opposed to, say, transfer punches). Therefore, you have the option of using
slightly less precise methods of sharpening the points.
Have you considered chucking the points in a die grinder and then spinning
them against an abrasive stone?
- Michael
Grant Erwin
That's a pretty good idea, Mike. And of course you're correct about the
precision of the point's centering not being critical. Thanks! - GWE
BillP
.
.
Grant, I've always set the punch in a drill chuck and hold the poit
against a grinding stone (6" grinder)... works well for me!
Bill
Peter T. Keillor III
Done the same with a cordless drill. Worked fine.
Pete Keillor
Larry Jaques
<gr...@NOSPAMkirkland.net> spake:
Someone mentioned a cordless drill, but nobody mentioned grinding
inline with the direction of the punch vs. at 90°. Points don't last
as long if you grind at 90°, as with a pencil sharpener. Twist slowly
when you sharpen so you don't get the radial lines which shorten the
life of the tip. (I just picked up that tip today while browsing
through a library book called "The Complete Library of Metal Working,
Blacksmithing, & Soldering" by Oscar Almeida, J.G. Holmstrom, and B.M.
Allen, respectively. It was made regarding scriber sharpening but I
think it logical that it also applies to punches.)
I use my 1" belt sander to tip tools and square those !@#$%^& blade
screwdrivers.
------------------------------------------------------
I survived the D.C. Blizzard of 2000...from California.
----------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
--------------------------------------------------
lionslair at consolidated dot net
My understanding is to grind like TIG - leaving long vertical cuts that slide
into metal. Circular rings plug up a hole as the punch starts in.
Martin
--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
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DeepDiver
> DeepDiver wrote:
>>
>> Since these tips are for hand-held center punches, the points don't have
>> to be perfectly centered with respect to the longitudinal axis of the
>> punch (as opposed to, say, transfer punches). Therefore, you have the
>> option of using slightly less precise methods of sharpening the points.
>>
>> Have you considered chucking the points in a die grinder and then
>> spinning them against an abrasive stone?
>
> precision of the point's centering not being critical. Thanks! - GWE
You're welcome. As others have pointed out, it's preferable to have a radial
grain pattern in the finished point (as opposed to concentric rings). I'd
still use the die grinder to shape and sharpen the point, stepping down to a
fine whetstone so that I'd have a very smooth finish. Then I'd buff the
point on a cotton or felt wheel loaded with emery compound, holding the tip
pointing down and rotating it against the wheel so that the buffing removes
any concentric grooves from the grinding. With enough polishing, there won't
be any grinding marks (and any microscopic grain from the polishing will be
along the longitudinal axis of the point).
By doing it this way, you'll get a truer conical point, than if you try to
grind it along the longitudinal axis.
- Michael
Eric R Snow
Greetings Grant,
I sharpen hollow gasket punches by chucking them in the lathe,
indicating 'em, and using a dremel tool to sharpen. Works great.
Eric
Jim McGill
I've sharpened mine by mounting them in a 1/2" drill and running them
against a fine belt on my belt sander. Just make sure you counter rotate
them or you get flat spots (guess how I know :-)
Jim
Robin S.
"Grant Erwin" <gr...@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
>
> Short of a toolpost grinder, is there a good way to repoint the old tips?
Why not just offhand grind on the bench grinder? Similar to sharpening a
drill, it takes some pratice. Once you have the skill, it takes about 30
seconds to sharpen your punch.
Regards,
Robin
Grant Erwin
These are tips, not whole punches. Not easy to manipulate something that
small around a grinding wheel. I may make up a pin with threaded hole, or
I may try holding them in a small chuck and spinning that by hand. In
general I don't think it's worth practicing it enough to get real good at
it when I only do it once every five or six years. - GWE
Robin S.
"Grant Erwin" <gr...@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
>
> These are tips, not whole punches. Not easy to manipulate something that
> small around a grinding wheel. I may make up a pin with threaded hole, or
> I may try holding them in a small chuck and spinning that by hand. In
> general I don't think it's worth practicing it enough to get real good at
> it when I only do it once every five or six years. - GWE
It just feels like a waste of time to do all kinds of setup just to put a
point on a punch. I don't own an auto center punch as they don't make sense
for tool and die work. The regular prick and center punches are really easy
to sharpen if one can sharpen a drill already. I sell auto center punches
and I'd imagine they'd be equally simple.
Good luck one way or the other.
Regards,
Robin
Hul Tytus
and a forgiving nature too.
Hul
Karl Vorwerk
thoughts on this list. I chucked it in a cordless drill ran it at low speed
and sharpened the bit on my angle grinder, grinding in the direction of the
point. Nice and sharp now.
Thanks
Karl
"Grant Erwin" <gr...@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:117vvgq...@corp.supernews.com...
Jim McGill
to control small bits of wood as you run them through the table saw.
Works a lot better than push sticks because the point is actually in the
wood. If they catch, you just loose a bit of metal not a finger. I've
used it several times and had to sharpen the pick once (after I picked
it up from the far side of the shop). Really glad to do it. Interesting
thing was it didn't make a detectable mark on the carbide blade.
~Roy~
to push wood through a table saw........the awl or icepick could
easily have wound up in your head, instead of making it across your
shop.!
On Wed, 11 May 2005 09:34:02 -0700, Jim McGill
<mcgill...@BOGUShalcyon.com> wrote:
>===<>Trick a pattern maker showed me one time is to use an ice pick or punch
>===<>to control small bits of wood as you run them through the table saw.
>===<>Works a lot better than push sticks because the point is actually in the
>===<>wood. If they catch, you just loose a bit of metal not a finger. I've
>===<>used it several times and had to sharpen the pick once (after I picked
>===<>it up from the far side of the shop). Really glad to do it. Interesting
>===<>thing was it didn't make a detectable mark on the carbide blade.
==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
~~~~ }<((((o> ~~~~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~~~~~ }<(((((o>
Gunner
>For some reason I fail to see any advantage in using any metal object
>to push wood through a table saw........the awl or icepick could
>easily have wound up in your head, instead of making it across your
>shop.!
Yes indeed. Bad juju.
Gunner
>
>On Wed, 11 May 2005 09:34:02 -0700, Jim McGill
><mcgill...@BOGUShalcyon.com> wrote:
>
>>===<>Trick a pattern maker showed me one time is to use an ice pick or punch
>>===<>to control small bits of wood as you run them through the table saw.
>>===<>Works a lot better than push sticks because the point is actually in the
>>===<>wood. If they catch, you just loose a bit of metal not a finger. I've
>>===<>used it several times and had to sharpen the pick once (after I picked
>>===<>it up from the far side of the shop). Really glad to do it. Interesting
>>===<>thing was it didn't make a detectable mark on the carbide blade.
>
>
>==============================================
>Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
>
>~~~~ }<((((o> ~~~~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~~~~~ }<(((((o>
Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli
Rex B
air does not impress me as a gain in safety. Maybe it's just me :)
- -
Rex Burkheimer
Bernard R
exactly the right tool. The main reason for using one is when ripping
narrow thin stock as this has a tendency to rise on the back of the
blade. Board Buddies and other hold down devices are fine but require
too much space between the fence and blade to be universally useful.
Any machine operation can be dangerous, and there are plenty of cases
where people go out of their way to defeat all the manufacturers and
OSHA safeguards. But, IMHO, and speaking as someone who's been using
powered woodworking machines for over 50 years and with all original
fingers and limbs, your safety is in your own head and hands, evaluating
each operation, ensuring clear paths for each item and paying attention
from before you switch the machine on until its off again and the work
piece removed.
Bernard R
Robin S.
"Bernard R" <bwjar...@cox-internet.com> wrote in message
news:Zevge.41267$gc6.10443@okepread04...
> your safety is in your own head and hands, evaluating each operation,
> ensuring clear paths for each item and paying attention from before you
> switch the machine on until its off again and the work piece removed.
>
Whoa! Personal responsibility?
Refreshing...
Regards,
Robin
Too_Many_Tools
lionslair at consolidated dot net
Some simple glue would hold long enough for a safe saw cut.
If it had been hun up in the blade then shattering light metal and worse is easy.
Sometimes experts in one field tend to be less cautious in another due to lack of
work in it or respect.
Remember the saying - do as I say, not as I do.... I think the pattern maker was doing.
Tom Miller
Well said!