Not Quite OT - Partially Aluminized Mylar Sheeting
Joe
I'm looking for a supplier of aluminized mylar film, just like the
"emergency blankets" you can buy in camping stores, etc, but in roll
form, so as to avoid the creases in the folded blanket products. I
want them to be only partially reflective (like the blankets). We use
them to cover over our SW-facing windows & French door during the
summer; we still are able to see out, but the creases are sorta
annoying.
Does anybody know of a supplier of "small" quantities (maybe a few
hundred feet by 3 or 4 feet wide)? UPS shippable size is a must.
Joe
cavelamb
Try?
http://j.piri.home.mchsi.com/parts.htm#bag
If I may hitch hike on your thread, Joe?
I'm looking for a similar film - but much thicker.
Something like X-ray negative stiffness.
This is intended as a smooth surface for glass and carbon fiber layups.
--
Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/
Steve W.
Reflective window tinting film. Just about any glass shop, tinting shop
or even Lowes/Home Depots will have it on hand.
--
Steve W.
Ned Simmons
wrote:
>
>If I may hitch hike on your thread, Joe?
>I'm looking for a similar film - but much thicker.
>Something like X-ray negative stiffness.
>This is intended as a smooth surface for glass and carbon fiber layups.
Mylar drafting film. Single matte has one side textured for drawing,
the other is glossy. It's available in different thicknesses. Photo
film backing is Mylar (polyester film).
http://www.draphixdirect.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0105.exe?UID=1928031010484742&GEN0=0.00&GEN1=drafting&FNM=00&HKW=WEBDIV05&SKW=manual,drafting,film,roll
--
Ned Simmons
Ed Huntress
"cavelamb" <cave...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:FKOdnamRe8BRVgrW...@earthlink.com...
I think that model makers use 0.014" Mylar for that purpose. I've never
tried it, but some model magazine I read a few years ago mentioned it. The
thickness stuck in my memory for some reason. It probably displaced
something important in doing so. d8-)
You can buy it at good craft/drafting suppliers.
--
Ed Huntress
Ned Simmons
<hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>> If I may hitch hike on your thread, Joe?
>> I'm looking for a similar film - but much thicker.
>> Something like X-ray negative stiffness.
>> This is intended as a smooth surface for glass and carbon fiber layups.
>
>I think that model makers use 0.014" Mylar for that purpose. I've never
>tried it, but some model magazine I read a few years ago mentioned it. The
>thickness stuck in my memory for some reason. It probably displaced
>something important in doing so. d8-)
>
>You can buy it at good craft/drafting suppliers.
Another form is plastic shim stock, which comes in a wider variety of
thicknesses in rolls and small sheets. Both polyester (Mylar) and PETG
are available from McMaster.
--
Ned Simmons
sta...@prolynx.com
> "cavelamb" <cavel...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Don't know how thick it is, I've used similar stuff for wing covering
on models, once glued in place, it can be tightened with a heat gun.
No dope needed! Comes on a roll.
Stan
Ed Huntress
<sta...@prolynx.com> wrote in message
news:2497774a-2f2f-4169...@o30g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
I'll have to remember that one. I was surprised that the thickness quoted
was so...ah, thick. That's good for maintaining curves and flatness but it
sounds pretty thick to work around a model airplane wing.
Anyway, that was just a remark I saw in an article, not a description of how
to use it. And using it as a parting layer on FRP is quite a bit different
from what you're doing with it.
--
Ed Huntress
Joe
wrote:
True, but it's made to be adhered to the glass. I don't need the
adhesive properties. I just want to attach it to the sash frame (or to
the door face using small magnets) for easy removal in the fall.. And
it's gotta be CHEEP! (like me)
Joe
chaniarts
the adhesive is only active after you pull off a protective sheet of mylar
and wet that surface. if you don't pull the protective sheet, it doesn't
stick to anything.
Joe
Is that stuff Mylar (PET)? I didn't know it could be made to shrink
that much. We make PET film where I work, and we do test it for
shrinkage as a quality check; it doesn't change its dimensions by
much. Maybe if you stretch it (under heat) but don't allow it to
recrystallize, it might shrink back to the original size?
A friend of mine gave me some of that heat-shrink film a few years
ago; it was orange in color and worked great for my purposes. Now that
I've used the 3M window insulating film kits on the windows of the old
part of my house, it reminds me of the model-builder's stuff; you even
use a heat gun (OK, hair dryer) to shrink it, thus removing the
wrinkles.
We used to make X-ray film base years ago, but everyone's gone to the
digital sensors, so the market has all but dried up. I think Agfa is
the only supplier left.
There is a re-work supplier near here called Interfilm. They do PET,
along with other films. Don't know what their minimums are, though.
http://www.interfilm-usa.com/home
Joe
axolotl
I don't need the
> adhesive properties. I just want to attach it to the sash frame (or to
> the door face using small magnets) for easy removal in the fall.. And
> it's gotta be CHEEP! (like me)
>
> Joe
I don't know how cheap it is, but these folks:
http://www.mylarstoreonline.com/TotalBlack-OutMylar25ft.html
sell it, apparently for the dope growing industry.
Kevin Gallimore
cavelamb
Now that you mentioned that, I just remembered that I have a piece left over
from the front door!
Yea!
RAM�
news:5rtfp5lqtblhn2c0r...@4ax.com:
The "adhesion" is by vacuum: you dampen the glass, press the film firmly
against it, and squeegee out the bubbles.
You can use painters' tape or drafting tape (masking/duct tape has too
sticky a glue) to attach to a frame.
Another alternative might be the removable type of dark window tinting
that sticks by electrostatic "cling" if you're not "hooked" on the
silvery appearance...
chaniarts
maybe on some, but i can tell you from experience removing some that there's
some adhesive involved.
RAMł
news:hnb772$jp7$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
What you've experienced is the separation of the coating from the film.
You didn't soak the stuff off (score then apply soap film) before you
peeled it away from the glass.
No adhesive is required to make the film stick - just water aka
diHydrogen Monoxide. (MSDS @ <http://www.dhmo.org/msdsdhmo.html> )
Since the OP has no intention of applying the film to the glass - he
wants to tape/pin it to the window casing - it makes no difference
whether or not an adhesive is used nor whether any form of adhesion is
involved. <grin>
Joe
wrote:
I tend to agree with chaniarts, in that some of the film I've
seen/used does seem to have an adhesive. The stuff I put on my car
does, for sure. I even had to peel off a backing film before applying
it, although there was no detectable 'tack' to that surface before the
application, which involved wetting it, then squeegeeing it in place.
The only problem with the adhering stuff is that it costs too much for
my purposes (I did allude to the fact that I'm a cheap bastard). The
"gardeners" stuff is 100% reflective, which also means it will not
pass any light, so is not suitable for my needs.
The "space blankets" I have been using are about 52" x 64", and can be
had for around a buck each online. If it weren't for the creases, they
would be ideal. Barring any more leads, though, it looks like that is
what I'll be using again this summer. Even with low-E windows, the
additional shading makes a huge difference in my cooling costs.
Joe
chaniarts
strange. i didn't see you there when i applied it, nor when i was trying to
get it off 15 years later after it had faded to a light purple and was
massively bubbled.
also strange: if you google it
http://www.google.com/search?q=car+window+film+removal EVERY page returned
states that it has an adhesive layer.
in getting it off, i tried water, soapy water, ammonia, lacquer thinner, and
acetone. it wasn't until i broke down and bought the stuff they sell in auto
stores for removal did the film adhesive come off.
Steve W.
>
> strange. i didn't see you there when i applied it, nor when i was trying to
> get it off 15 years later after it had faded to a light purple and was
> massively bubbled.
>
> also strange: if you google it
> http://www.google.com/search?q=car+window+film+removal EVERY page returned
> states that it has an adhesive layer.
>
> in getting it off, i tried water, soapy water, ammonia, lacquer thinner, and
> acetone. it wasn't until i broke down and bought the stuff they sell in auto
> stores for removal did the film adhesive come off.
>
>
>
Any of the films sold for vehicle use have adhesive on them. The older
ones used a REALLY nasty adhesive. Tint shops have the removal spray OR
you can do it the hard way, Razor scraper and LOT'S of blades...
The newest films sold are MUCH thinner than the old stuff. Plus they
have better dyes that hold color better. The only real problem with the
thinner film is that using heat to stretch it to match curves is a bit
more difficult as it does tear easier.
--
Steve W.