info
Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Waterpik repair
17 views
Skip to first unread message
Jim Wilkins
Dec 3, 2020, 11:08:32 AM12/3/20
to
The battery-powered WP-360 Water Flosser eventually slows down, so I buy
another and set the old one aside to fix later. Today is later, to avoid the
infection risk of a shopping trip and the cost of yet another new one. After
prying the ribbed ring out with a Swiss Army knife can opener they
disassemble easily with a small Phillips. Inside is two tabbed AA NiMH
cells, a DC motor and pump, all of which come apart by removing fairly large
screws, unlike the tiny ones on another of today's projects.
The on-line repair suggestions are about replacing the battery, but when I
took apart an old one for practice the batteries were still charged and the
motor had corroded and seized solid. The current, slow one worked fine after
I had opened it, which is typical for me. Maybe a bit of clogging dirt was
dislodged? I see the same thing with small engine carburetors.
Electrically the 3.17VAC input float-charges the NiMh cells through a series
diode. The motor on my good one draws about 1 Amp from a metered power
supply, disassembled on the bench without the pump load. The battery voltage
dropped from 2.8V (external test charge) to 2.2V before disassembly, 2.5V
after.
The motor pinion drives a crown gear with an eccentric for the pump piston.
The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled everything
that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
different suggestion.
Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?
another and set the old one aside to fix later. Today is later, to avoid the
infection risk of a shopping trip and the cost of yet another new one. After
prying the ribbed ring out with a Swiss Army knife can opener they
disassemble easily with a small Phillips. Inside is two tabbed AA NiMH
cells, a DC motor and pump, all of which come apart by removing fairly large
screws, unlike the tiny ones on another of today's projects.
The on-line repair suggestions are about replacing the battery, but when I
took apart an old one for practice the batteries were still charged and the
motor had corroded and seized solid. The current, slow one worked fine after
I had opened it, which is typical for me. Maybe a bit of clogging dirt was
dislodged? I see the same thing with small engine carburetors.
Electrically the 3.17VAC input float-charges the NiMh cells through a series
diode. The motor on my good one draws about 1 Amp from a metered power
supply, disassembled on the bench without the pump load. The battery voltage
dropped from 2.8V (external test charge) to 2.2V before disassembly, 2.5V
after.
The motor pinion drives a crown gear with an eccentric for the pump piston.
The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled everything
that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
different suggestion.
Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?
Jon Elson
Dec 3, 2020, 1:44:14 PM12/3/20
to
Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
> Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?
I kept a Braun electric toothbrush working for YEARS past the expected
>
> Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?
lifetime, with outboard batteries and a drop of oil on each motor bearing
every couple years. I'll bet a drop of oil on each end (if you can get to
the shaft at both ends) and let it soak in for a few hours will loosen the
motor up quite well. Eventually the brushes and or commutator wear away,
and that is the end of it.
Jon
Jim Wilkins
Dec 3, 2020, 7:05:57 PM12/3/20
to
"Jon Elson" wrote in message
news:GYCdnW_UMuNprFTC...@giganews.com...
--------------------------------
I used a needle oiler from a hobby store which reached in past the crown
gear and under the pinion. The gear assembly separates from the motor easily
but I only did that on the frozen unit because inadequate gear tooth
engagement is a reported problem.
I've used turbine oil in a zoom spout bottle on the plain shaft bearings of
my megger and found that it needed re-oiling after a year on the shelf,
perhaps the thin oil evaporates? The crank drives a planetary speed
increaser on a concentric shaft, and becomes stiff if not oiled.
https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Megohm-Tester-Resistance-Megohmmeter/dp/B00975X2FY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
It's a ripoff of the old Biddle megger. The idea is that if you shock
yourself you automatically stop cranking the high voltage generator.
news:GYCdnW_UMuNprFTC...@giganews.com...
I used a needle oiler from a hobby store which reached in past the crown
gear and under the pinion. The gear assembly separates from the motor easily
but I only did that on the frozen unit because inadequate gear tooth
engagement is a reported problem.
I've used turbine oil in a zoom spout bottle on the plain shaft bearings of
my megger and found that it needed re-oiling after a year on the shelf,
perhaps the thin oil evaporates? The crank drives a planetary speed
increaser on a concentric shaft, and becomes stiff if not oiled.
https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Megohm-Tester-Resistance-Megohmmeter/dp/B00975X2FY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
It's a ripoff of the old Biddle megger. The idea is that if you shock
yourself you automatically stop cranking the high voltage generator.
Gamayun
May 5, 2022, 10:45:07 PM5/5/22
to
> The motor pinion drives a crown gear with an eccentric for the pump piston.
> The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled everything
> that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
> different suggestion.
Hi Jim. I have a issue with de DC engine. on the WP-360. I dont know how to buy. Can you please tell me the specs of the engine?
> The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled everything
> that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
> different suggestion.
--
For full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/waterpik-repair-651283-.htm
Jim Wilkins
May 6, 2022, 6:31:16 AM5/6/22
to
"Gamayun" wrote in message
news:16ec63fd794d0546$1$1198433$4236...@news.newsgroupdirect.com...
> The motor pinion drives a crown gear with an eccentric for the pump
> piston.
> The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled
> everything
> that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
> different suggestion.
Hi Jim. I have a issue with de DC engine. on the WP-360. I dont know how to
buy. Can you please tell me the specs of the engine?
------------------
Specs???
I oiled the bearings.
news:16ec63fd794d0546$1$1198433$4236...@news.newsgroupdirect.com...
> The motor pinion drives a crown gear with an eccentric for the pump
> piston.
> The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled
> everything
> that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
> different suggestion.
Hi Jim. I have a issue with de DC engine. on the WP-360. I dont know how to
buy. Can you please tell me the specs of the engine?
Specs???
I oiled the bearings.
Jim Wilkins
May 6, 2022, 10:01:42 AM5/6/22
to
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:t52tdf$mkh$1...@dont-email.me...
My notes show the motor drew 1.2A without the reservoir, from a lab-type
metered power supply. The battery is a 2.4V NiMH, 1300mAh. I charged it at 1
Amp from the current-limited lab supply until the batteries began to warm
up, which indicates a full charge, at 3.6V on charge and 2.9V after
disconnecting it.
The supplied charger provided 0.112A at 2.88V which is the C/10 rate that
nominally requires 14 hours for a complete charge and can be left on longer,
though maybe not continuously. It isn't regulated, merely half wave
rectified AC.
0 new messages