Ideas appreciated. I know it will cost a bit, but compared to a new one, it
will be less, and I like this old gal. If the back half checks out, I may
spring for it. I'm guessing $500. Anyone know the real price?
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
#1 - a compression check. Most everyone thinks they know how, but look it up
so you don't do it wrong.. which can be very misleading.
Seals can be replaced without an overhaul. Trouble is, ya might find scored
journals and bearings.
But if the journals and bearings are in good condition, keep everything very
clean during reassembly, and all should be fine (assuming the compression
check was good.
Plasti-gage optional, and a good idea.
If journals are scored (no plasti-gage required to determine that they need
replaced), the crank should be ground undersize to spec for undersize
bearings.
Then buy the correct bearings and proceed by keeping everything very clean
during the reassembly.
Plasti-gage is a good method of double-checking accuracy before closing up
the crankcase and running the engine only to find out it cranks too slowly,
or there are knocking noises.
--
WB
.........
"Steve B" <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:sk0sr7-...@news.infowest.com...
$500 for what? The seals? $75 at most for all the seals you are gonna
need and then some.
Gunner
--
"Confiscating wealth from those who have earned it, inherited it,
or got lucky is never going to help 'the poor.' Poverty isn't
caused by some people having more money than others, just as obesity
isn't caused by McDonald's serving super-sized orders of French fries
Poverty, like obesity, is caused by the life choices that dictate
results." - John Tucci,
I think he meant a total rebuild - rings , rods & mains , seals , maybe an
overbore and pistons depending on taper and OOR . That's a flathead isn't it
? Might need valves/guides and a set of hard seats too . Not sure if
flatties even have valve guide seals ...
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !
Gasket set, new mains, seals, rod bearings. Might as well go through it
while it's apart.
Steve
IIRC those had a water jacket manifold that would deteriorate over time.
--
I can see 2012 from my front porch
Actually, the front and rear main seals can usually be replaced
without tearing the engine apart. See if you can get aservice manual
on the vehicle and look at the procedure. Generally speaking the
front seal is pulled out and the replacement is driven in with a
driver or appropriately sized socket. The rear main is pretty much
the same.
Jim
Thx. My $500 SWAG was close. By the time I replace everything I want to
do, I'll probably be in it $750.
Steve
Hmm.. Interesting. Is that with the engine in place? I haven't looked at
it. Can you drop the pan without having to jack up the engine and take the
motor mounts off, or separate from the generator? I know the old Chebbies
had a rope seal that you could pull through with a piece of aircraft cable
that came with the kit. Doing those two without doing everything else would
be a nice alternative.
Steve
The one time I needed seals on a Dodge 6 cylinder, I did them myself.
Learned a lot, but didn't do much improvement to the leak rate.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve B" <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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