Zero Setters (For Tool Length Offsetting in CNC's)
BottleBob
Just in case someone might be interested.
I used a 1" Indicating Zero-Setter from SPI for over a decade. One of
THE most used tools I had. Then a friend asked me about 6 months ago
where he could get one. SPI no longer carried them. But today I
stumbled across one in a Mitutoyo catalog.
Mitutoyo part number 950-111 for the inch model. Go to the bottom of
the PDF below and back up a few pages.
http://www.mitutoyo.com/pdf/1981_Winter_Promo.pdf
And on a search, I found the following ones as well.
http://www.rajshreeengineers.com/z-axiszero.htm
The above one has a magnet on the bottom for use in Horizontal
Machines. Too bad it doesn't have an aluminum or brass magnet, eh.
Maybe you could clamp and thin steel plate to your alum. parts and
allow for that thickness, or do your setting off the tombstone or vise
rails, whatever.
http://www.amtuae.net/accessory-Z-zero-Setter.htm
http://balajiclampingdevices.com/z-zero-setter.html
http://www.rajshreeengineers.com/z-axiszero.htm
http://www.taipeitradeshows.com.tw/product_info.shtml?comno=28539446&showno=MT&docno=76349
Cripes! The world is flooded with them. LOL
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
F. George McDuffee
===========
In case you didn't notice, all but one of the companies
[rajshreeengineers] or their web sites are located outside the
US.
You can download an add-on for firefox to show url information in
your bottom toolbar at http://dndetails.com/
Unka George (George McDuffee)
..............................
The past is a foreign country;
they do things differently there.
L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author.
The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).
Triboniophorus
"BottleBob" <bott...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:VeCdna1rF5rvWa_W...@earthlink.com...
Les Paul made one too--called it a Paulverizer IIRC.
Or maybe it was Mikey--who called it a Mikeabrator.
Hmm wonder if he's even still alive....curious if anyone's heard from him
lately....
--
BottleBob
> "BottleBob" <bott...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> Cripes! The world is flooded with them. LOL
>>
>>
>
> Les Paul made one too--called it a Paulverizer IIRC.
>
> Or maybe it was Mikey--who called it a Mikeabrator.
>
> Hmm wonder if he's even still alive....curious if anyone's heard from him
> lately....
TB:
Ahh yes, the Millabrator. Funny you should mention that. I had one
for years, and a regular in amc asked me about it some months back.
I'd only used it about twice since I had it, so I sold it to him.
About Santa Cruz Mike, it seems once China (or Taiwan), swallows you
up - you're seldom heard from again. How many posts have we seen from
Hamei in the last 5 years, eh.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
Triboniophorus
yubyub
Give a man a fish and he eats this evening....teach him how to fish and he
will live a lifetime without hunger....
The antithesis goes as follows :
"Build a fire for a man then he will be warm for the evening...
...BUT...
*Set a man on fire* and he will be warm for the remainder of his life....
--
Set a man on on fire and he is warm for the rest of his like
raamman
> To All:
>
> Just in case someone might be interested.
>
> I used a 1" Indicating Zero-Setter from SPI for over a decade. One of
> THE most used tools I had. Then a friend asked me about 6 months ago
> where he could get one. SPI no longer carried them. But today I
> stumbled across one in a Mitutoyo catalog.
> Mitutoyo part number 950-111 for the inch model. Go to the bottom of
> the PDF below and back up a few pages.
>
> http://www.mitutoyo.com/pdf/1981_Winter_Promo.pdf
>
> And on a search, I found the following ones as well.
>
> http://www.rajshreeengineers.com/z-axiszero.htm
>
> The above one has a magnet on the bottom for use in Horizontal
> Machines. Too bad it doesn't have an aluminum or brass magnet, eh.
> Maybe you could clamp and thin steel plate to your alum. parts and
> allow for that thickness, or do your setting off the tombstone or vise
> rails, whatever.
>
> http://www.amtuae.net/accessory-Z-zero-Setter.htm
>
> http://balajiclampingdevices.com/z-zero-setter.html
>
> http://www.rajshreeengineers.com/z-axiszero.htm
>
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ydr3hrz
>
> Cripes! The world is flooded with them. LOL
>
> --
> BottleBobhttp://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
what's wrong with using a regular jo-block ?
Triboniophorus
"raamman" <raa...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9e706cdc-4662-4d75...@d21g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
a jo-block is too easily scratched
chinese 1-2-3 block usually is more than sufficient
--added benefit, if they get much cheaper due to the bungled US Treasury
efforts towards equalizing fair trade over the past decade then we can
continue to import for cents on the dollar ( in comparison to the true cost
of mining and producing steel ), and if the dollar keeps droppping we can
eventually melt them down for scrap and get more than we paid for the
freaking abominations im the frist place and subsequently sell them all back
to China.
Good plan if it werent for the wal-,art lawn chair and the trade deficit
where mcdonald's is having mctoys made in mcChina for the Mcmovie indus
try
--
BottleBob
> what's wrong with using a regular jo-block ?
R:
First: If it's an inspection grade Jo-block, it will CEASE to BE one
after a very short period of time due to the scratches it receives
sliding ON your parts and UNDER the sharp edges of your tools.
Now don't get me wrong, I've used dowel pins to set tool length
offsets for years on parts which are too small, or because of geometric
constraints are not able to support a Zero Setter.
Second: When you ARE able to use a Zero Setter, it's quicker. To
use your Jo-block, dowel pin, 1-2-3 block, whatever, you have to bring
the tool down below the block/pin height, then crank the spindle back
up to slide the block/pin under the tool. You may want to double check
the height if it's a close tolerance part.
With a Zero Setter you just come down and when you get close you slow
down to .001 increments and watch the indicating dial go to zero and
you're done. You don't have to go back up & down, or do a double check.
It's the same whether you're setting tools off the top of your part,
off the vise, or off the table. A Zero Setter is quicker.
In my opinion, probably the worst way to set TLO's on a CNC is to use
the shim stock or cigarette paper method. WAAAY, too much chance of
chipping the sharp edges of your carbide tools, or gouging your part.
Plus it's often the slowest method, since you are just creeping up on
the shim trying to be double careful to NOT chip the tools as I just
mentioned.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
F. George McDuffee
=========
I ain't Bob, but its too expensive and too hard on the jo blocks.
Frugal approach is to use a gauge pin and roll under the tool as
you back off. Dowel pins are even cheaper, but not quite as
accurate. Dowel pins may also be under/over nominal size.
Buy 1/8 or 0.100 ZZ pin gage for 2.00$US
http://www.auto-met.com/gage/pin_gage.htm
buy 1/8 X 2 dowel pins for 16 cents each. [minimum order quantity
applies]
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/39599/nm/Dowel_Pins_Brighton_
Anyone for ZigZag, E-Z wider or if you're old enough Bull Durham
cigarette paper?
http://www.gothamcigars.com/ZigZag-Cigarette-Paper/products/190/
https://www.rollingpapers.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=EZWI&keywords=all&gclid=CMPRoJO27p4CFQ8eDQodmCDOMw
BottleBob
> On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 21:21:15 -0800 (PST), raamman
> <raa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> what's wrong with using a regular jo-block ?
> =========
> I ain't Bob, but its too expensive and too hard on the jo blocks.
>
> Frugal approach is to use a gauge pin and roll under the tool as
> you back off. Dowel pins are even cheaper, but not quite as
> accurate. Dowel pins may also be under/over nominal size.
Unka' George:
I don't know about that. Case hardened and ground dowel pins are
virtually never undersize. They are usually very accurately .0002
oversize (+ or - .0001). Stainless dowel pins can often be on-size.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
F. George McDuffee
========
Perhaps the more correct advice, even for the gage pins, is to
verify the diameter with your good mic or .0001 indicator, set
with a known good jo or space block. Most likely not the
time/place to use your "verynear" calipers...
BottleBob
> On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 23:03:24 -0800, BottleBob
> <bott...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> I don't know about that. Case hardened and ground dowel pins are
>> virtually never undersize. They are usually very accurately .0002
>> oversize (+ or - .0001). Stainless dowel pins can often be on-size.
> ========
> Perhaps the more correct advice, even for the gage pins, is to
> verify the diameter with your good mic or .0001 indicator, set
> with a known good jo or space block. Most likely not the
> time/place to use your "verynear" calipers...
Unka' George:
I'd say measuring first is excellent advice no matter WHAT you're
using to set your tools. Gage pin, cigarette paper, dowel pin,
Zero-Setter, even a Jo-block, and especially a 1-2-3 block.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
Triboniophorus
> F. George McDuffee wrote:
> > On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 23:03:24 -0800, BottleBob
> > <bott...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >> I don't know about that. Case hardened and ground dowel pins are
> >> virtually never undersize. They are usually very accurately .0002
> >> oversize (+ or - .0001). Stainless dowel pins can often be on-size.
>
> > ========
>
> > Perhaps the more correct advice, even for the gage pins, is to
> > verify the diameter with your good mic or .0001 indicator, set
> > with a known good jo or space block. Most likely not the
> > time/place to use your "verynear" calipers...
>
> Unka' George:
>
> I'd say measuring first is excellent advice no matter WHAT
Bob sory i cut it short but the drill cab is what it is IOW refrence onlt
One a firt things I teach the noobs is the drill cabs ( and i have the grand
mall hout set here ) only get your close ass.
mike the drill
inspect the point is it new or is it some thing thats dulled to the max and
waiting for the lazy assed shop owner get off his ass who sharpen all drills
wvwry 15 years no mztter what ?
mike the drill
did I mention ?
mike the drill
Noto goina get into collet chucks but it its wobbling like and ole whore on
sunday morning then probly gonna cut WAYYY oversize
kids these dayzes gonna gimmee heart attack bad enough I take the same dame
risks
cncmillgil
Your absolutely right. Just can't seem to convince the "others".
I've broken & chipped more carbide inserts & small EM's than I'd like
to remember.
I've have my own "poor mans" setter. It was sold by SPI & others maybe
40bucks? Basically a 2" spring loaded flashlight with 3 red lens
around the circumference- uses (3) 357 watch batteries.
Sweet, I'm not that careful when power feeding down on it. It has
about 1/8 travel. Touch it - back off in .0005" steps till it slides
out - type in 50.8 -I'm done! All the tools in the Hurco carousel are
set with one tool touch. If I'm sizing blocks, I set off the parallels
& go up my finished block thickness for Z0. Comes out +-.0005 w/o much
effort. Usually -.0005 because of the insert pkts not quite the same
in the face mills & she's gettin worn.
Only one problem with the new Hurco- its insulted some how, so the
flashlight does not work. Oh well, its a spring loaded 2" feeler gauge
now & saves me on batteries.<g>
If the contour does not allow me to get the setter on it, I slap on
the indicator & use the machine Z readings to get a reference number
from the part to the back area of the vise top / table or somthin
stationary & use that to set new tools on calculating the ref. number
in.
http://users.cin.net/~milgil/CNC_xmas.jpg
http://users.cin.net/~milgil/Santa_checkup.jpg
http://users.cin.net/~milgil/I_Want_a_Hippo.mp3
--
ª"˜¨¨¯¯¨¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•.¸ Gil© ¸.•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¨¯¯¨¨˜"ª
BottleBob
> Your absolutely right. Just can't seem to convince the "others".
> I've broken & chipped more carbide inserts & small EM's than I'd like
> to remember.
> I've have my own "poor mans" setter. It was sold by SPI & others maybe
> 40bucks? Basically a 2" spring loaded flashlight with 3 red lens
> around the circumference- uses (3) 357 watch batteries.
> Sweet, I'm not that careful when power feeding down on it. It has
> about 1/8 travel. Touch it - back off in .0005" steps till it slides
> out - type in 50.8 -I'm done! All the tools in the Hurco carousel are
> set with one tool touch. If I'm sizing blocks, I set off the parallels
> & go up my finished block thickness for Z0. Comes out +-.0005 w/o much
> effort. Usually -.0005 because of the insert pkts not quite the same
> in the face mills & she's gettin worn.
Gil:
Ya know, I've got one of those 2" Continuity LED Tool Length Setters
you're talking about. I used to use it ALL the time before I got my
first 1" tall indicating Zero-Setter. It was good, but the Zero-Setter
is faster. Although, on large machines & Horizontals the the
continuity setter can have it's advantages, since you don't have to be
right IN the machine and on top of the Zero-Setter to see the dial as
the LED's are on the side. On the Horizontal you have to hold the LED
setter by hand on your part.
For face mills that have to be set accurately, I check each insert
(usually only three for the face mills we used), and set TLO's for the
lowest insert.
> Only one problem with the new Hurco- its insulted some how, so the
> flashlight does not work. Oh well, its a spring loaded 2" feeler gauge
> now & saves me on batteries.<g>
Now that's strange, the Z axis ways are on the same casting, right? I
wonder if it could be related to the use of ceramic bearings in the
spindle? Maybe connect a wire from the spindle drawbar mechanism to
another part of the base. Or put a refrigerator magnet contacting the
spindle nose and the head? Or a wire with a couple of alligator clips,
one clipped to the sheet metal, that other in your hand - so that you
can touch the tool holder when cranking down to complete the circuit.
>
> If the contour does not allow me to get the setter on it, I slap on
> the indicator & use the machine Z readings to get a reference number
> from the part to the back area of the vise top / table or somthin
> stationary & use that to set new tools on calculating the ref. number
> in.
I've set from the bottom like you explained above in certain unusual
cases. But I tried to not make a habit of it. It only takes one or
two times getting a phone call, or distracted and forgetting to allow
for, and enter, the finished material thickness to ruin your whole day. :(
I'll add one minor detail. When setting TLO's for tiny tools, like
.005 diameter end mills and the like, I tend to use .0625 dowel pins.
Since just BREATHING on those minuscule puppies tends to snap them off.
raamman
I fully agree with the last paragraph of your post; I have not had any
kind of trouble using jo-blocks, I don't need to slide the entire
block under the tool, just the edge of the block needs to pass under,
when it does that, I have my height. The small problem I see with your
setter ( which is a lot better than the electronic one they used at my
old shop ) is the need to clear a larger base for it, and even then
you might not realize a chip or deformation in the table might cause
the setter to sit askew, or if there is a mechanical error, with a jo-
block I can at least feel the table surface to ensure this is not
happening. A cheap jo-block set off ebay can provide a few disposable
jo-blocks, a 1 inch block will still measure 1.000" and if you use the
same method to set your tools all the surfaces will be consistent will
each other. I have not used a dowel to set a tool height, but I
imagine it might be hard to tell when one is just scrapping the
tangent of the pin or cleanly passing underneath; with the edge of the
jo-block the setting is much more certain.
BottleBob
> On Dec 24, 1:18 am, BottleBob <bottl...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> In my opinion, probably the worst way to set TLO's on a CNC is to use
>> the shim stock or cigarette paper method. WAAAY, too much chance of
>> chipping the sharp edges of your carbide tools, or gouging your part.
>> Plus it's often the slowest method, since you are just creeping up on
>> the shim trying to be double careful to NOT chip the tools as I just
>> mentioned.
Raamman:
Sorry, didn't mean to create a group lynch mob as a result of your
original question. Which was a valid one.
And as a matter of fact, I personally HAVE used a 1" high round
Jo-Block for TLO setting. But it was from my personal cheapie set that
had two 1" blocks. And it's quite extensively scratched now FROM that
usage. I wouldn't even want to TRY to "wring" it against any other
blocks for fear of damaging the other ones.
> I fully agree with the last paragraph of your post; I have not had any
> kind of trouble using jo-blocks, I don't need to slide the entire
> block under the tool, just the edge of the block needs to pass under,
> when it does that, I have my height. The small problem I see with your
> setter ( which is a lot better than the electronic one they used at my
> old shop ) is the need to clear a larger base for it, and even then
> you might not realize a chip or deformation in the table might cause
> the setter to sit askew, or if there is a mechanical error, with a jo-
> block I can at least feel the table surface to ensure this is not
> happening. A cheap jo-block set off ebay can provide a few disposable
> jo-blocks, a 1 inch block will still measure 1.000" and if you use the
> same method to set your tools all the surfaces will be consistent will
> each other.
You're correct, the Zero-Setter I used isn't perfect, nor advisable to
use in ALL situations. But when you CAN use it, I've found from
personal experience that it's the best all around method for quick
setups, for me at least.
About a decade ago I did a bunch of timed runs of setting tools to see
which method I was using at the time was fastest. I posted some of the
results in here (amc).
> I have not used a dowel to set a tool height, but I
> imagine it might be hard to tell when one is just scrapping the
> tangent of the pin or cleanly passing underneath; with the edge of the
> jo-block the setting is much more certain.
Try it. You hold the dowel against the tool as you're cranking up the
Z in .0001 increments. It slips right under the tool with no chipping
of the tool edge.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
BottleBob
> About a decade ago I did a bunch of timed runs of setting tools to
> see which method I was using at the time was fastest. I posted some of
> the results in here (amc).
Here's a post I made in 2003:
==============================================================
I've set tool lengths with an indicator setter from the table
surface (I have one of those Millabrators), I've set them from the
fixture surface, from the surface of the parallels in a vise, from the
vise surface itself, from the top of machined vise jaws, etc. Some
methods may be more advantageous than others for certain classes of
work, but generally I've settled on using the top of the part for 98%
of the work "I/we" do. We even leave -1.0000 in the Haas Z offset
position, because it's become the shop standard that we use a 1" set
block off the top of the part.
As far as tool setting devices go, I've used paper/cellophane,
dowel pins, 1-2-3 blocks, an Led Lighting conductive setter, the
aforementioned Millabrator, a 3/4" diameter X 1" high gauge block, but
my favorite is SPI's 1 inch high indicating setter with a .0005
Mitutoyo indicator attached to the side.
A 1-2-3 block is usually much too clunky for setting .010 dia.
end mills, or .015 drills and such. The SPI indicating setter is fine
for setting small or large tools. If the indicating area is too small
to support the indicating setter I sometimes use that 3/4" round gauge
block I spoke of, or even a 3/16 or 1/8 dowel pin. One trouble with
using a gauge block is that the sharp edge of the carbide cutters can
scratch the surface of the gauge block.
For speed, I haven't found anything that can beat an indicating
setter. I did a timed run in the Haas Thursday just in case I'd have
time to post about it. I set tools 10 through 20, with tool 10 in the
spindle while being on the TLO offset page. This machine has about a
30 inch Z travel compared to our 20 inch Fadals. Anyway, pushing the
timer and setting the 11 tools to within tenths took 4 min. 11 seconds.
Now I don't normally set EVERY tool to tenths since it's usually only
critical where you want multiple tools to cut the same surface with a
minimal step, but I did it for this exercise to show how quick it can
be done.
About off-line setters: On our Fanuc controlled Makino, it's
easier to set the tools off-line and enter the numbers into the
control. A definite dinosaurian procedure compared to the tool setting
features of the Haas or Fadals. Off-line setting, writing the numbers
down, and manually entering the numbers into the control greatly
increases the opportunity for mistakes. Anywhere along the line, in
reading the number, writing it down, entering it into the control,
transcription or transposition errors can creep in.
In summary, there are numerous ways to skin a cat, and it
depends on the type of work YOU do, whether one method of setting TLO's
may be more beneficial than another for you or your shop.
==============================================================
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
BottleBob
> About a decade ago I did a bunch of timed runs of setting tools to
> see which method I was using at the time was fastest. I posted some of
> the results in here (amc).
Here is what I wrote in a thread in March of 1999. (I've combined
parts of two posts together)
===============================================================
When I started doing tool length offsets I used a 1-2-3 block, I
changed to a 1 inch diameter X 1" high gage block out of my cheapo gage
block set. The smaller block was much more maneuverable and easy to
use. I recently bought one of those 2" high round set blocks that are
spring loaded and light up when they are touched. Yesterday was the
first day I started using it. I think this thing is the cat's meow,
although the light could be brighter.
Today I timed how long it took to do tool length offsets in the Fadal
with 6 tools. They were already in the carousel and the readout was at
"enter next command." From hitting the first button on the control to
tool number 6 being put away with all the TLO's set, it took 3.06
minutes.
===============================================================
Now these are on different machines (Fadal vs. Haas), but the actual
cranking down the head shouldn't be all that different. Actually it
should take more time on the Haas since it has a 32" Z travel compared
to the extended head 24" travel on the Fadal I used.
But in my other post, setting 10 tools in the Haas with the Indicating
Zero-Setter took 4 min. 11 sec. (or 25.1 sec. per tool).
Setting 6 tools with the LED Continuity Tool setter took 3 min. 6 sec.
(or 31.0 sec. per tool).
Actually IMO, a 5 sec. different per tool is too small a difference
(and too small a sample size), to declare a definite winner.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
BottleBob
> BB, I like this one 2.000 high.
> http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii305/dobedave/Haas/toolsetup.jpg
DD:
Looks easy to read. Got to keep an eye on that little inner dial
though, eh? <g>
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
BottleBob
>> why wrote:
>>> BB, I like this one 2.000 high.
>>> http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii305/dobedave/Haas/toolsetup.jpg
>> Looks easy to read. Got to keep an eye on that little inner dial
>> though, eh? <g>
>
> It starts about the .050 mark so no need to look at the inner dial,
Dobie Dave:
Whew, that's a relief. I thought it marked the number of revolutions
the dial turned. I have a 1.575" dial Compac .0001 test indicator that
has an inner dial the marks complete revolutions turned.
> also has magnet in the base, think I paid $70.00 for it. The knob on
> the left locks it at 2.000 to set the zero.
Being the way I am, I'd spend countless wasted hours surface grinding
the top, or the bottom to get that dial to point straight up when
reading zero. LOL
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
D Murphy
news:Z9ydnVNN7Ziz6anW...@earthlink.com:
> why wrote:
>> BB, I like this one 2.000 high.
>> http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii305/dobedave/Haas/toolsetup.jpg
>
> DD:
>
> Looks easy to read. Got to keep an eye on that little inner dial
> though, eh? <g>
>
Which brings up the question of why can't someone make an electronic DTI
that transmits via blutooth or somesuch to a unit with a LARGE LCD screen
that you can hold in your hand and read with failing eye sight while the
DTI is up inside the dark machine in some hard to get at place?
--
Dan
(Master of the run on sentence)
cncmillgil
> BottleBob <bottl...@earthlink.net> wrote innews:Z9ydnVNN7Ziz6anW...@earthlink.com:
Anyone using a webcam type camera to remotely monitor CNC?
I live close to the shop & do lights out machining often. It would be
nice to do a check before going to bed just to see if all is ok.
Things like momentary power spike/drop - network glitch- machine
software hangup ect have stoped the machine at night. Its always a
sinking feeling coming in in the morning with the red light flashing.
--
~g~
raamman
>
> - Show quoted text -
dlink has a dcs-900; it has a 2.4 ghz wireless remote network
capabilities. I've had mine for about 2 years now, I'm sure the
technology has improved on the capability and the price. I use it to
record activity at my home when I'm away, wirelessly sending the image
to 2 old non-descript systems that record. I works well enough after I
replaced the antenta.
raamman
heck, one needs a thick skin in this business huh ? the one
application that I did not consider for the zero-setter was setting an
entire carosel. Usually, my/ our practice is to maintain tool
standardization, tools being left in the same place for the most part
and special tools being set up for the job when required.This
generally means set up one or two tools and a jo block in my pocket if
I need or want to do a check. I'll try the dowel. Thank you for your
time.
BottleBob
> On Dec 24, 11:21 pm, BottleBob <bottl...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Sorry, didn't mean to create a group lynch mob as a result of your
>> original question. Which was a valid one.
> heck, one needs a thick skin in this business huh ?
R:
Truer words were never spoken. <g>
> the one
> application that I did not consider for the zero-setter was setting an
> entire carosel. Usually, my/ our practice is to maintain tool
> standardization, tools being left in the same place for the most part
> and special tools being set up for the job when required.This
> generally means set up one or two tools and a jo block in my pocket if
> I need or want to do a check. I'll try the dowel. Thank you for your
> time.
Every job shop is obviously going to be a little different. The wide
range and type of work we did it didn't really allow for standardized
tooling to remain in place from job to job. So a half carousel (10
tools), & sometimes a full carousel (20) were needed to be reset.
Usually we only made 3 to 5 parts, and then it was on to the next job.
And they weren't normally family of parts type jobs.
--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob