Use Hitachi Woodworking Mitre saw to cut Metal?
Spencer McGrew
My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
abrasive blade and cut metal?"
The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
discuss hard metals.
Any thoughts, or experince?
J. Forbes
After using it to cut steel with an abrasive cutoff wheel, you wont want to
use it on wood again. The mess a chopsaw leaves is pretty ugly. I have a
Makita 14" chop saw, and I use it quite a bit. I also just recently got to
use a friends Makita miter saw for doing the trim in our house addition. I
dont think the moving parts on the miter saw would ever work again after using
if for abrasive cutting.
Jim
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim and Janet Forbes jfo...@primenet.com
Sierra Vista, AZ URL= http://www.primenet.com/~jforbes
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Tony Midea
Spencer McGrew wrote:
>
> My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
> for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
> abrasive blade and cut metal?"
> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
> discuss hard metals.
> Any thoughts, or experince?
I have a Hitachi saw also (not compound though and used it for just this
same thing. Cut some pretty thick 3/8" flat stock (steel). Go very slow
and remove the dust bag and shroud or it may get wasted just like mine
did. cost me 10.00 to replace them
Tony
Bill Browne
In article <jforbes.53...@primenet.com> jfo...@primenet.com (J. Forbes) writes:
>From: jfo...@primenet.com (J. Forbes)
>Subject: Re: Use Hitachi Woodworking Mitre saw to cut Metal?
>Date: 31 Dec 1996 09:48:01 -0700
>In article <c1f7cc$861b...@news.compuvar.com> Spencer McGrew <bk...@thevision.net> writes:
>> My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
>>for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
>>abrasive blade and cut metal?"
>> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
>>discuss hard metals.
>> Any thoughts, or experince?
>After using it to cut steel with an abrasive cutoff wheel, you wont want to
>use it on wood again. The mess a chopsaw leaves is pretty ugly. I have a
>Makita 14" chop saw, and I use it quite a bit. I also just recently got to
>use a friends Makita miter saw for doing the trim in our house addition. I
>dont think the moving parts on the miter saw would ever work again after using
>if for abrasive cutting.
>Jim
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>Jim and Janet Forbes jfo...@primenet.com
>Sierra Vista, AZ URL= http://www.primenet.com/~jforbes
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
Along those same lines, I used abrasive blade on a circular saw to cut
cinderblock. The dust got in the bearings....don't work so good on wood
anymore : (
Bill
pnpn...@aol.com
In article <c1f7cc$861b...@news.compuvar.com>, Spencer McGrew
<bk...@thevision.net> writes:
> My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
>for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
>abrasive blade and cut metal?"
> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
>discuss hard metals.
> Any thoughts, or experince?
>
>
We had this thread about 4 weeks back. I have just this minute finished
cutting up 100 pieces of 3/4 x 1/2 x 1 long aluminum bar on my Delta mitre
saw. I use a 60 tooth carbide blade with some solid stick lube from Enco.
Make sure the metal is clamped well and that any end stop is removed so
the cut off metal can move out of the way after the cut.
I do this about 2 times a week with many different shapes and sections. 1"
al pipe even.
Peter
Ray Spinhirne
Tony Midea (Tony....@moa.net) wrote:
: Spencer McGrew wrote:
: >
: > My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
: > for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
: > abrasive blade and cut metal?"
: > The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
: > discuss hard metals.
: > Any thoughts, or experince?
: I have a Hitachi saw also (not compound though and used it for just this
: same thing. Cut some pretty thick 3/8" flat stock (steel). Go very slow
: and remove the dust bag and shroud or it may get wasted just like mine
: did. cost me 10.00 to replace them
: Tony
I used my Sears RAS with an abrasive blade to do some serious cutting on
3 x 3/8 steel angle. It worked slow but ok and made a big mess. Several
months later the moter "smoked". Was this related? I don't know. I would
use a carbide blade on AL with no worries. For steel I don't think I think
I would look for a used abrasive saw.
jack yates
Spencer McGrew wrote:
>
> My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
> for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
> abrasive blade and cut metal?"
> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
> discuss hard metals.
> Any thoughts, or experince?
...My neighbor and the *other* machinist in this little burg has been
using a chop saw to cut 1/4 X1 mild steel for about a year now with no
problems..he sold me his power hacksaw...
Jack
John Earle
Another note along these lines - has anyone cutting large numbers of
aluminum pieces ever set up a clamping mechanism on BOTH sides of the cut
for aluminum pipe/rectangles/extrusions etc.? Apart from the cold saw
speed ratings for aluminum (3400 rpm) I don't see much difference with
using a woodworking chop saw (5000rpm) other than the somewhat more flimsy
construction. And the ads for all the multi-thousand cold saws have
double-sided vice mechanisms or air-cylinder clamps on each side of the
cut...
Any words on this one fellows?
John
jack yates (my...@ldl.net) wrote:
Roger Loving
In <jforbes.53...@primenet.com> jfo...@primenet.com (J.
Forbes) writes:
>
>In article <c1f7cc$861b...@news.compuvar.com> Spencer McGrew
<bk...@thevision.net> writes:
>
saw
>>for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
>>abrasive blade and cut metal?"
>> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
>>discuss hard metals.
>> Any thoughts, or experince?
It works just fine, but the saw gets too dirty for wood work.
Roger Loving
Fitch R. Williams
Spencer McGrew <bk...@thevision.net> wrote:
> My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
>for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
>abrasive blade and cut metal?"
> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
>discuss hard metals.
> Any thoughts, or experince?
You can use it to cut Aluminum if you are careful. I've
done it with my Mikita 10". Used a carbide blade with
*lots* of teeth - don't remember the exact number.
Would *not* recommend using an abrasive wheel in it to cut
steel. The miter box is made mostly of Aluminum. The
redhot abrasive particles and steel particles will do ugly
things to it in relatively short time. They will be
directed right at the compound moving parts area.
I used an abrasive blade in my Sears Radial Arm Saw 20 years
ago to cut a few pieces of steel tubing. It has never been
quite the same since.
Fitch
pnpn...@aol.com
In article <32cc9eea...@news.ptw.com>, frwi...@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:
>I used an abrasive blade in my Sears Radial Arm Saw 20 years
>ago to cut a few pieces of steel tubing. It has never been
>quite the same since.
>
>
Woah, wicked boy! I suppose you use sharpened spurs and whips with your
horses too.
Peter
pnpn...@aol.com
In article <5ae2rm$f...@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>, v8...@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca
(John Earle) writes:
>double-sided vice mechanisms or air-cylinder clamps on each side of the
>cut...
>
>Any words on this one fellows?
>
>
Sounds like a good idea, my setup with the Delta saw on occasions will
fling the cut piice into the brown hole near the black hole of the buffing
wheel. Leaves a nasty looking gouge in the end loose end when it does.
Not a real problem though, once in every 30 or 40 usually. I actually
thought about clamping both sides this morning as I was cutting some 1/2"
diameter round aluminum. The flingings to the brown hole were a little
more frequent.
I wear a face shield that has a plastic mesh in front to protect my
glassses and face.
Peter
Orest Koroluk
> Spencer McGrew wrote:
> >
> > My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
> > for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
> > abrasive blade and cut metal?"
> > The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
> > discuss hard metals.
> > Any thoughts, or experince?
I have used my mitre saw and my radial arm saw to cut 6061 extrusions and
thin sheet using carbide tipped blades. It works well but then I only do
it occassionally. Your manual probably does not mention hard metals
because they could noyt be done using a standard blade. I have made
adjustments to intrument panel sheets using a jointer to take off thin
skims as well. If your tools are sharp aluminum is no problem. Personally
I would stay away from abrasive wheels on woodworking equipment (not the
least problem would involve sparks from ferrous materials and sawdust).
Orest
James Wilkins
> My wife wants crown molding so I got a Hitachi compound miter saw
> for Christmas. As soon as I opened the box I thought "Hmmm, add an
> abrasive blade and cut metal?"
> The manual does mention cutting aluminum sash, but does not
> discuss hard metals.
> Any thoughts, or experince?
An abrasive wheel makes an ungodly mess (still trying to invent the other
kind) and burns a mix of abrasive and iron oxide into every downwind
surface and ten feet beyond.
OTOH, does anyone know if it is safe to use a suitably speed-rated wood
blade in an abrasive cutoff saw?
--
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA
stewart cooper
not fun. stew
Cory Burr
I'm not sure if I've followed this thread properly!?!
Of course you can use a mitre saw on metals ---NON FEROUS ONLY---
AND only when using the correct rake angle blade for the application. Typically a
-3degrree to -5degree (negative rake) triple chip. I use a 100 and a 120 tooth 16"
negative rake tripple chip blade on a B&D compound mitre saw (chopbox) and cut solid
aluminum and brass (sometimes up to 3" thick). One important caveate, enter the
workpiece slowly to avoid breaking teeth on first contact. Also, caution shoud be
excercised on thin pieces or pieces with thin sections eg. extrusions.
Also I would never think of putting an abrasive blade on my chop saw, they aren't made
for that. (So in other words...NO STEEL or other FERROUS alloys!)
Steve
Cory Burr <cb...@mhtc.net> wrote:
snips
>
>I'm not sure if I've followed this thread properly!?!
>Of course you can use a mitre saw on metals ---NON FEROUS ONLY---
>AND only when using the correct rake angle blade for the application. Typically a
>-3degrree to -5degree (negative rake) triple chip. I use a 100 and a 120 tooth 16"
>negative rake tripple chip blade on a B&D compound mitre saw (chopbox) and cut solid
>aluminum and brass (sometimes up to 3" thick). One important caveate, enter the
>workpiece slowly to avoid breaking teeth on first contact. Also, caution shoud be
>excercised on thin pieces or pieces with thin sections eg. extrusions.
>
>Also I would never think of putting an abrasive blade on my chop saw, they aren't made
>for that. (So in other words...NO STEEL or other FERROUS alloys!)
Chop and Miter saws work great on steel. I use an abrasive blade on
mine for cutting rebar and such.
I was doing some fancy brick work last year on my patio, and used my
miter saw with a masonry blade to miter bricks. Worked like a charm,
except the mass of dust screwed up the bearings.
Abrasive wheels also work great for cutting titanium. Cool white
sparks too!
PLAlbrecht
Heck yeah, you can cut ferrous in a miter saw. I do it all the time. The
stuff tends to build up on the exhaust side of the blade housing, forming
sort of a sintered slaglike material, but it does cut. I routinely cut
3/16 x 1 1/4 CRS flat stock to make repro Porsche Speedster steel seat
frames. Use a big metal-cutting abrasive wheel, about $6ish at the Home
Despot type stores. I'm paranoid so I wear safety goggles and a face
shield.
Don't do this near anything you don't want pitted by hot sparks (like cars
or especially auto windshields).
Pete