Re: Al Outboard engine - clearing out waterways
John D.
>Slightly off topic but I thaught people with aluminium based engine block
>experience might have an answer to this:
>20 ish year old 2 hp Suzuki not much used outboard engine still works well
>but is overheating enough to start to sieze after a few minutes, apart from
>checking the impeller, I think it has been left long periods without being
>washed through with freshwater prior.
>Is there a liquid mix I can run through the waterways (preferably running
>the engine in a tub of the mix - which might defurr the waterways without
>pulling the engine apart? This probably wouldnt' be worth the trouble as
>the spares could be difficult, breaking studs etc. in this old engine which
>has never been stripped.
>Charlie+
Check the impeller. The little 2 HP motors are usually pretty
bulletproof, particularly if they have been used for a while and
clearances are getting sloppy. I ran a Marina 2 HP for almost an hour
with only one vane left on the impeller and it didn't seem to bother
it much. At least I replaced the impeller and used it for another
couple of years, and it was still running when I sold it.
There flushing mixtures for cleaning the crud out of a salt water
cooled engine but they are fairly rich mixes of various acids and
react pretty rapidly with aluminum.
John D.
(johndslocombatgmaildotcom)
Bob La Londe
Always replace the impellor for an outboard every two years max if its in
use, each year if its operated in a river system or other gritty
environment, and any time its been sitting for an extended period.
Its possible a lean condition may make it run a little hot from a gummed up
carb, but I can guarantee you when you take out the impellor you will find
its taken a curved set or is even starting to break down or crack.
Impellors are relatively cheap, and dirt cheap compared to the cost of a new
or even good used outboard.
Also, when was the last time you changed the gearcase lubricant? You should
do that every year, or everytime its been sitting for an extended period.
Also relatively cheap and dirt cheap compared to replacing or rebuilding
your lower unit.
Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com
cavelamb
> Charlie+
you know... that's a lot easier said that done.
(not the impeller, but the gearbox oil)
Never the less, It's on my list - if the spring thaws ever come...
--
Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/
Bruce
wrote:
Actually it is pretty easy... with the right gear. The easy way is to
buy the gear oil in one of those "toothpaste" tubes. Take out the two
plugs and let the old stuff drain out then jam the nozzle of the oil
tube in the lower hole and squeeze. When oil comes out the top screw
the plug in. Then take the tube out of the bottom hole - the oil won't
leak out - and screw in the plug. Almost quicker to do then to tell.
Cheers,
Schweik
(goodsoldierschweikatgmaildotcom)
Bob La Londe
"Bruce" <brucein...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:tn7ao5lmgmrtna9qn...@4ax.com...
I use a pump, but basically the same thing.
1. Place bucket under unit.
2. Pull bottom plug.
3. Pull top plug.
a. Inspect oil draining from unit for metal particles and color
b. If brown you have water in oil, plan on a seal kit.
c. If any metal particles larger than tiny slivers, plan on a
complete rebuild soon.
4. Pump oil in bottom hole until it comes out top hole.
5. Replace plug in top hole.
6. Remove pump.
7. Place plug in bottom hole.
It's a really good idea to replace the gaskets on both plugs.
cavelamb
I'm sure you guys are assuming that you can actually get to the gearbox.
Probably even thought you'd take the motor off of the boat.
Or maybe the boat is on a trailer!
RoyJ
pressure sprayer with gear oil. Complete refill took 5 minutes (mostly
waiting for the oil to drain), topping off took 60 seconds. Checked
every motor that went though the shop.
Bruce
wrote:
Actually I use a pump also but I wanted to post the most simple
method. You could even use a long hose and a funnel, just hold the
funnel higher then the upper hole :-)
Another point is that the seals in the lower end don't last forever
and if the engine is used frequently it is a good idea to change the
oil on say, a monthly basis. That way if water starts getting in you
may catch it before the gears go.
Cheers,
Schweik
(goodsoldierschweikatgmaildotcom)
John D.
wrote:
Well, I was talking about a sailboat dinghy motor and La Bonde is
probably talking about a bass boat so yes. My motor hangs on the aft
rail and his sits on the trailer.
John D.
(johndslocombatgmaildotcom)