It mows

[Terry Coombs]

And it mows quite well . The belts need to be replaced , but they work
well enough to see that my weedeater is going to get a lot less usage from
now on .

--
Snag

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> fired this volley in
news:mj8fjs$7b3$1...@dont-email.me:

Yeah, but do all three blades cut in the same plane? I've seen new mowers
that couldn't do that! (distinct, individual blade paths visible in the
cut-width)

Lloyd

[Terry Coombs]

Yup , they seem to be all in the same plane as far as I can tell . Not as
smooth as a putting green , but then the area I tested it on was the power
line easement , grass and weeds/wildflowers were between knee and waist high
. I need to sharpen and balance the blades , there's a little vibration .
I'm on totally new ground here , my previous mower experience is a 22" cut
single blade u-push-it unit . A guy could easily get spoiled by a machine
like this ...
BTW , for those that were discussing leveling the deck - This deck rides
on wheels , with rollers at center front and rear to (I think) help stop
scalping . There is no way to level the deck other than to adjust the lift
links for side/side leveling . I'll be looking at an online manual for
information on how it's supposed to be set up .
--
Snag

[Larry Jaques]

By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
mowing?

--
Vidi, Vici, Veni

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> fired this volley in
news:678glad11i97l34tn...@4ax.com:

> By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
> mowing?
>

By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and seldom
rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances, even just shipping
from factory-to-customer.

Lloyd

[Terry Coombs]

This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when quality was
a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made , probably in the
80's . I'm still looking for alignment information , found a couple of
references but no actual specs/information on what and how . I did find a
mention that the front should be 1/4" lower than the back , but no
information on how to accomplish that .
Why is it that wives don't understand the drive to finish a project while
you're focused on it ?
--
Snag

[Jim Wilkins]

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:mj9vg7$7cg$1...@dont-email.me...

The front/rear tilt adjustment on mine is the opposing nuts on the
threaded horizontal rods leading to the forward attachment point.

The deck suspension is a four bar linkage whose geometry may not be
easy to understand.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-bar_linkage

-jsw

[Leon Fisk]

On Sat, 16 May 2015 22:25:11 -0500
"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote:

<snip>

> BTW , for those that were discussing leveling the deck - This deck rides
>on wheels , with rollers at center front and rear to (I think) help stop
>scalping . There is no way to level the deck other than to adjust the lift
>links for side/side leveling . I'll be looking at an online manual for
>information on how it's supposed to be set up .

The wheels are like safety bumpers. During normal use they shouldn't be
touching the ground.

The lift links are indeed how you level from side to side. Usually
there are some sort of threaded rod/couplers used in the front hook up
that are adjusted for the front to back height.

John Deere's manuals are hard to come by for free. They want you to PAY
for everything you get from them...

I put this together for a neighbor's machine, newer than yours:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/Manual-Owners.pdf

Download and save it. Maybe it is enough like yours to get you on the
right track. I'll be removing it as soon as you say you have it...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:33:48 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
<lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

>Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> fired this volley in
>news:678glad11i97l34tn...@4ax.com:
>
>> By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
>> mowing?
>>
>
>By LACK of design, is more like it.

Perzactly. One has to buy the thicker "pro" blades to keep them from
bending on the first gopher mound or tree root the deck hits. The
resultant non-vibrating deck is a wonder to behold. <shakes head>

>The decks are stamped, and seldom
>rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances, even just shipping
>from factory-to-customer.

Heathen! You forget that the lighter weight decks are cheaper and
easier to ship and pull around, saving five to ten molecules of CO2
over their short lifetimes. Greenies everywhere love them. <sigh>

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress <deep sigh>)

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

>Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
>> Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> fired this volley in
>> news:678glad11i97l34tn...@4ax.com:
>>
>>> By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
>>> mowing?
>>>
>>
>> By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and seldom
>> rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances, even just
>> shipping from factory-to-customer.
>>
>> Lloyd
>
>This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when quality was
>a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made , probably in the
>80's . I'm still looking for alignment information , found a couple of
>references but no actual specs/information on what and how . I did find a
>mention that the front should be 1/4" lower than the back , but no
>information on how to accomplish that .

Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough
to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn.

> Why is it that wives don't understand the drive to finish a project while
>you're focused on it ?

Maybe because they have literally dozens of other projects lined up
waiting for you?

[dpb]

On 05/17/2015 7:32 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
...

> John Deere's manuals are hard to come by for free. They want you to PAY
> for everything you get from them...

...

I've _never_ had the Deere dealer refuse information or copies of
pertinent sections of shop manuals or whatever gratis. A whole new user
manual for a used machine bought privately and no relationship
whatsoever with a dealership would be something else, though...

--

[Leon Fisk]

How many big green farm machines you got there? ;-)

Scag, ExMark, Poulan, Husqvarna, MTD... Owners, service, parts...
manuals are all easy to find online in pdf form and can be had for the
price of downloading.

My neighbor has an old John Deere A and now an old John Deere Lawn
Tractor. I've looked for manuals/info online. You won't find diddly
squat for them other than parts and those aren't easy to read. He
looked himself and couldn't find anything of use to him. The newer stuff
you can get as individual pages if you look hard enough. Nothing
suitable for keeping locally or printing out though unless you work at
it. Just saying...

[Ed Huntress]

They get two arms and a leg for their manuals, but if $25 - $30 sounds
better, Select Manuals has a lot of JD's:

http://www.selectmanuals.com/agriculture-john-deere-c-75_76.html

And, believe it or not. Target stores (or Target online, anyway) and
Wal-Mart have some John Deere manuals.

--
Ed Huntress

[Terry Coombs]

Downloaded and saved . I'm not sure if it will help , but I'll look thru it
. THANKS !

--
Snag

[dpb]

On 05/17/2015 8:19 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Sun, 17 May 2015 08:01:37 -0500
> dpb<no...@non.net> wrote:
>
>> On 05/17/2015 7:32 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> John Deere's manuals are hard to come by for free. They want you to PAY
>>> for everything you get from them...
>> ...
>>
>> I've _never_ had the Deere dealer refuse information or copies of
>> pertinent sections of shop manuals or whatever gratis. A whole new user
>> manual for a used machine bought privately and no relationship
>> whatsoever with a dealership would be something else, though...
>
> How many big green farm machines you got there? ;-)

A few... :)

> Scag, ExMark, Poulan, Husqvarna, MTD... Owners, service, parts...
> manuals are all easy to find online in pdf form and can be had for the
> price of downloading.
>
> My neighbor has an old John Deere A and now an old John Deere Lawn
> Tractor. I've looked for manuals/info online. You won't find diddly
> squat for them other than parts and those aren't easy to read. He
> looked himself and couldn't find anything of use to him. The newer stuff
> you can get as individual pages if you look hard enough. Nothing
> suitable for keeping locally or printing out though unless you work at
> it. Just saying...

Have you tried just going into the shop? Here they're all there (may
have to dig around a little to drag out the really old stuff, but
Jerry's never failed on anything I've ever asked about including the ole
112 lawn tractor that's somewhere in the early '60s vintage...of course,
I do have the original owner's manuals on everything here (plus some for
stuff that's been gone for 50 year or more...I stumbled on the book for
the old McCormick 10-20 and the bill of sale for it a few months ago in
a drawer...it had been traded in on the first Farmall 'M' before or
shortly after I was born so I never saw it... :)

That's not quite as convenient as if all had been scanned and put up as
.pdf doc's if one wants to just sit at the keyboard, granted. I don't
do collector stuff, but I'd've thunk w/ all the collectors there are
that there would be just scads of places for vintage Deere doc's.

But, if you want something that's hard to get and pricey if you do, try
JLG on their manlifts, etc., ... :( They hold stuff to authorized
dealers only and won't discuss repair/maintenance issues at all with end
users (I suppose for liability reasons). Cost me $150 for a base
maintenance manual that turns out doesn't include hydraulic systems as
well as other subsystems--they're that much more apiece. Deere looks
pretty good in comparison to their shade of orange.

--

[Terry Coombs]

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
>>> Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> fired this volley
>>> in news:678glad11i97l34tn...@4ax.com:
>>>
>>>> By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
>>>> mowing?
>>>>
>>>
>>> By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and
>>> seldom rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances,
>>> even just shipping from factory-to-customer.
>>>
>>> Lloyd
>>
>> This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when
>> quality was a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made
>> , probably in the 80's . I'm still looking for alignment information
>> , found a couple of references but no actual specs/information on
>> what and how . I did find a mention that the front should be 1/4"
>> lower than the back , but no information on how to accomplish that .
>
> Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough
> to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn.
>
>
>> Why is it that wives don't understand the drive to finish a project
>> while you're focused on it ?
>
> Maybe because they have literally dozens of other projects lined up
> waiting for you?

No , actually it was her day off and she wanted to "do something" .
Probably wanted me to think up "something to do" too ...

--
Snag

[Terry Coombs]

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
>>> Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> fired this volley
>>> in news:678glad11i97l34tn...@4ax.com:
>>>
>>>> By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
>>>> mowing?
>>>>
>>>
>>> By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and
>>> seldom rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances,
>>> even just shipping from factory-to-customer.
>>>
>>> Lloyd
>>
>> This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when
>> quality was a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made
>> , probably in the 80's . I'm still looking for alignment information
>> , found a couple of references but no actual specs/information on
>> what and how . I did find a mention that the front should be 1/4"
>> lower than the back , but no information on how to accomplish that .
>
> Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough
> to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn.
>

Shoulda done this in one reply ... oh well , what's a few electrons .

I've read in at least 3 places now that the front is supposed to be 1/4"
lower than the rear . Dunno why . After reading Jim W's post , I'll look
into the adjustments . I wondered why there's a height adjustment knob down
in front of the seat , well now that I know the wheels aren't supposed to
actually support the deck while mowing I can see how it's supposed to work .
Need to get that sheet of plywood out - as soon as it quits raining and
dries out some .
--
Snag

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 10:16:26 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>

So why didn't we hear that you said "OK, hon. Go jump into your Levis
and an old tee and we'll finish this together.", hmm?

[Michael A. Terrell]

Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> So why didn't we hear that you said "OK, hon. Go jump into your Levis
> and an old tee and we'll finish this together.", hmm?

Maybe because he could finish it faster, without any help?

[Terry Coombs]

You've met my wife ?

--
Snag

[Terry Coombs]

You don't get it . She expects me to KNOW that she wants something . It
wouldn't be fair if she actually said something ... like "Hey , ya wanna go
to town and get a burger and then hit some of the tourist trap shops on
main?"
"We've enjoyed 25 years of wedded bilss . "
--
Snag
been married 41 ...

[Steve W.]

What model tractor? Which style deck?

JD like many other companies made different decks to fit the same
tractors. On my Cub Cadet for instance there is a nice height adjuster
on it, but with a commercial terrain following deck you don't use it.
You set the height of the deck with the wheels.
The deck rides the wheels while it cuts.

The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag, the front tip should
be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass.

--
Steve W.

[Gunner Asch]

Linde does the same damned thing. Cant find a manual for my forklift
ANYWHERE.

Gunner

[Gunner Asch]

I used to do that..bring out a radio..some sodas, then she would get
bored and leave. Which worked fine for me but it gave her the idea I
cared about her and we "worked together" so she could brag to her
friends

Gunner

[Terry Coombs]

It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they
changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with
hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the
seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does
it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let
the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?

--
Snag

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 16 May 2015 22:25:11 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

Adjust the wheels??

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

Because it gets in the way of THEIR agenda!!!

[Leon Fisk]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote:

<snip>

>It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they
>changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with
>hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the
>seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does
>it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let
>the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?

I'm not familiar with that model Deere. But on my Poulan Pro the knob
sets the cutting height. It works like a stop setting. I can pull the
lift lever back and raise the deck all the way up, but when you release
the lift lever and lower the deck it stops at where the knob is set.
Maybe your 317 works like that too. I also have a little numbered marker
on the opposite side of the lift lever on the pivot. That is suppose to
help with setting it to so many inches. It isn't very accurate. I just
measured the blade height with a ruler and tried for around 3.5 inches.
I'm sure it is set lower right now, probably more like 2.5 to 3 inches
as I've tweaked it off and on.

The wheels on my unit are simply there to keep from scalping stuff when
negotiating uneven terrain. Which my yard has quite a bit of...

[Leon Fisk]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500
"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote:

>It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage...
<snip>

Check this out:

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-317-oper/johndeere317operato.html

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-41-and-4/johndeere41and48rot.html

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/

Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and Mower
deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help.

[Michael A. Terrell]

I doubt it, but I've met plenty who are like that. :)

[Larry Jaques]

It didn't look like they had any adjustment there. Wheels are for
anti-scalping, anyway.

My Murray deck has slotted area on the back bracketsand wingnuts for
setting overall height range and leveling. I cut a couple pieces of
tubasix the height I liked, rolled the mower onto the driveway, and
set them under the deck, then loosened/tightened those adjuster nuts.
Bingo, instant set! Those blocks live in the pump house, so they
don't get lost. The front mount pair is sort of a floating bracket
which hangs from the mower frame. I think the rear adjusters move the
deck a bit front to back, then allow it to hang flat and self-level,
for the most part. It seems to work pretty well.

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 13:29:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:

>

Yabbut, that didn't get her off his back, now did it?

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 13:40:27 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>

Which is why women should come with instructions...

>to town and get a burger and then hit some of the tourist trap shops on
>main?"
> "We've enjoyed 25 years of wedded bilss . "

I've enjoyed 61 years of unwedded bliss so far, and I'm the happiest
when listening to these stories y'all tell, knowwhatImean,Vern?

[Michael A. Terrell]

Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> On Sun, 17 May 2015 13:29:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >Larry Jaques wrote:
> >>
> >> So why didn't we hear that you said "OK, hon. Go jump into your Levis
> >> and an old tee and we'll finish this together.", hmm?
> >
> >
> > Maybe because he could finish it faster, without any help?
>
> Yabbut, that didn't get her off his back, now did it?

How do you know? Were you there, peeking in the window? ;-)

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>

_Drag_, at 4mph? <giggle>

>>the front tip should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass.

Is Steve talking about canting the spindle in the deck?

> It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they
>changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with
>hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the
>seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does
>it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let
>the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?

As I was saying about my Murray, the slots are 3.5" long and I can set
the range that the lever height adjustment works (1-6). With your
hydraulic lift (expensive toy), any adjustment will be for the set
height and the hydraulics will work for adjusting the range up and
down from that base height.

[Larry Jaques]

Which they (and we) _also_ do not understand.

[Terry Coombs]

Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500
> "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage...
> <snip>
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-317-oper/johndeere317operato.html
>
> http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-41-and-4/johndeere41and48rot.html
>
> http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/
>
> Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and Mower
> deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help.

The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked - I
already had the first one . Thank you !

--
Snag

[Pete Keillor]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:30:04 -0700, Larry Jaques
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:

>On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Steve W. wrote:

<snip>

>>> The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag,
>
>_Drag_, at 4mph? <giggle>
>

<snip>

Yeah, drag of the blade on the grass. If the front is higher, it'll
still do most of the cutting, but the rest of the blade will gradually
try to reduce the height that last little bit, increasing the load and
giving a raggedy beat up cut.

[Terry Coombs]

Actually in this case it's only 1/8" - according to the directions
specific to this deck . My thanks to Leon Fisk for finding and posting the
link to the model 48 setup and user manual . I learned how it's supposed to
be set up , and how to accomplish the proper alignment .
As others have said , the wheels aren't supposed to touch during normal
operation . I didn't know that - and apparently neither did the last guy
that ran this deck .
I also found out that the throttle is supposed to be ran wide open during
cutting operations , which kinda makes sense . Higher blade speed should
give a cleaner cut . New bearings for the 2 outboard spindles are on order ,
there was detectable play in them . Center spindle bearings were tight and
smooth , apparently have been replaced already . That should clear up the
slight vibration . I have a feeling that now my wife is going to want a
"lawn" ... she thinks the area I was using for testing looks much better
than when I use the weedeater .
--
Snag

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:25:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"

<mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 17 May 2015 13:29:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
>> <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >Larry Jaques wrote:
>> >>
>> >> So why didn't we hear that you said "OK, hon. Go jump into your Levis
>> >> and an old tee and we'll finish this together.", hmm?
>> >
>> >
>> > Maybe because he could finish it faster, without any help?
>>
>> Yabbut, that didn't get her off his back, now did it?
>
>
> How do you know? Were you there, peeking in the window? ;-)

With my special spidey sense (bachelorhood), I can track the poor
married guys' conditions and know how this inevitably plays out. I've
also heard the lamentations on it almost daily for decade upon decade,
y'know? But, nooooo, you guys keep chasing them until they catch you.
Sest lavvy.

[Larry Jaques]

Do you hear that tee-tiny violin playing in the background?

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear
draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it
gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to
use it?

[Terry Coombs]

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Leon Fisk wrote:
>>> On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500
>>> "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage...
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> Check this out:
>>>
>>> http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-317-oper/johndeere317operato.html
>>>
>>> http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-41-and-4/johndeere41and48rot.html
>>>
>>> http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/
>>>
>>> Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and
>>> Mower deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help.
>>
>> The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked
>> - I already had the first one . Thank you !
>
> Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear
> draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it
> gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to
> use it?

Interesting , yes it is . It also has taps from the pump to add a
hydraulic 3 point hitch to the back for plows and other implements . I do
have the belt covers , and they are on the deck . Wouldn't do to get grabbed
and lose a limb ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much . Less pressure , especially on the rear , means
more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction
problems .
I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks
end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be
picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New
spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need
to have it fully and properly functioning .
I'm not sure what a new yard/garden tractor with comparable features costs
, but I know I can't afford one . JD is proud enough of their new units you
have to call to get a price ... there were no prices in the flyer I got in
the mail , just discount offers between $500-$1000 , so you know they ain't
cheap !
--
Snag

[Larry Jaques]

On Mon, 18 May 2015 08:32:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>

wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear
>> draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it
>> gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to
>> use it?
>
> Interesting , yes it is . It also has taps from the pump to add a
>hydraulic 3 point hitch to the back for plows and other implements . I do
>have the belt covers , and they are on the deck . Wouldn't do to get grabbed
>and lose a limb ...

I suppose the triples do expose more belt than is safe.

>I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
>now , but probably too much . Less pressure , especially on the rear , means
>more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction
>problems .

I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the
wheels on the stops.

Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts
are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II.

(I traded $300 worth of work for the beastie with hydrostatic tranny,
go/reverse pedal and have only changed oil, put on a couple belts, and
replaced the blades with thicker Pro thatchers in the past 6-7 years.)

> I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
>mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks
>end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be
>picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New
>spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need
>to have it fully and properly functioning .

It's nice to be able to totally rebuild something for under a Benjie,
innit?

> I'm not sure what a new yard/garden tractor with comparable features costs
>, but I know I can't afford one . JD is proud enough of their new units you
>have to call to get a price ... there were no prices in the flyer I got in
>the mail , just discount offers between $500-$1000 , so you know they ain't
>cheap !

I understand they're all made in China now and the shit has totally
hit the fan, with JD fans bailing by the tens of thousands.

[dpb]

On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

> ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right

> now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means

> more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction
> problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...

--

[Terry Coombs]

>I said , then

Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the
> wheels on the stops.

I spin 'em all the time when using the front blade . Lowering the pressure
in the tires might help ... I don't remember what I put in them when I
mounted them , seems like it was around 20 or so - which is probably about
10 lbs too much .

>
> Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts
> are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II.
>

I'm waiting on delivery of 2 16 x 6.50 - 8's at about 30 bucks each
including tax . My tire guy matched WM , but I gotrta mount them . WM would
probably insisted in mounting , for another 15 bucks or so because these are
"special case" wheels .

>
>> I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
>> mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect
>> by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted .
>> Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for
>> the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming
>> too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly
>> functioning .

Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting
those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on
time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up
and getting the front blade back on .

--
Snag

[Terry Coombs]

During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the
seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide
enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our
road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a
couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it
wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag

[Steve W.]

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-317-oper/
http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/john-deere-317-hydr/

grab them before deere kills them...

If the deck has front wheels like
http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/wp-content/uploads/322-john-deere.jpg
it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the wheels
and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height adjuster on the
tractor to the lowest setting.

If the deck looks like this style
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212595&d=1336672145
with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need
to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height
with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck.



--
Steve W.

[Steve W.]

Drag on the blade as it goes through the grass. The tip of the blade
cuts the grass and the rest of the blade is there to support that
cutting edge. With the front of the deck tilted down 1/4" the 1/2 of the
blade that isn't cutting grass doesn't get drug through the grass
slowing the blade down.

>
>
>>> the front tip should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass.
>
> Is Steve talking about canting the spindle in the deck?

The deck itself should tip down 1/4" in the front. This is actually a
common adjustment on better mowing gear.

>
>
>> It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they
>> changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with
>> hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the
>> seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does
>> it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let
>> the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?
>
> As I was saying about my Murray, the slots are 3.5" long and I can set
> the range that the lever height adjustment works (1-6). With your
> hydraulic lift (expensive toy), any adjustment will be for the set
> height and the hydraulics will work for adjusting the range up and
> down from that base height.
>
> --
> When we are planning for posterity, we ought
> to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
> -- Thomas Paine
>
> (comparing Paine to the current CONgress <deep sigh>)

--
Steve W.

[Steve W.]

Don't be sure of that. I have the Cub Cadet equivalent of that Deere.
For winter duty it has a 275 pound steel cab, loaded tires, chains, and
190 pounds of wheel weights, plus my FA in the seat and it still spins !!

Cub Cadet 2263 (it was an 1863 from the factory but I stuck a 22 horse
on it) It's from the last true garden tractor series that CC put out.
Then they started the 1000/2000 series to meet box store pricing. The
3000 series were nice but $$$$$$


--
Steve W.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:mjeag7$vtb$2...@dont-email.me...

A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.

-jsw

[Terry Coombs]

Mine looks more like the first one , with wheels front and rear . The
adjustment mechanism is different though , it uses a pin-in-hole arrangement
. I've already bookmarked links to both the mower and deck manuals , see no
(easy) way to actually download them, to my comp though . Those manuals have
been up since 2009 , I'd think if JD was going to kill them it would have
happened by now ...
The only problem I see with letting the tractor carry the deck is that it
can then cut taller where the ground dips . I don't think that will be a
problem with the rough cutting I have planned though . Good to know I can
run it either way , I did get the adjuster on the tractor freed up yesterday
.
So many people have contributed information , my thanks to all !
--
Snag

[Larry Jaques]

On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

>>I said , then
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>> I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the
>> wheels on the stops.
>
> I spin 'em all the time when using the front blade . Lowering the pressure
>in the tires might help ... I don't remember what I put in them when I
>mounted them , seems like it was around 20 or so - which is probably about
>10 lbs too much .

15 too much, according to the manual. Yeah, a front blade would
require LOTS of traction, and likely real tractor tires with heavy
lugs and liquid filling.

>> Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts
>> are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II.
>>
>
> I'm waiting on delivery of 2 16 x 6.50 - 8's at about 30 bucks each
>including tax . My tire guy matched WM , but I gotrta mount them . WM would
>probably insisted in mounting , for another 15 bucks or so because these are
>"special case" wheels .

I've found them for $26-52 each for the exact same tire. I like to
sell at retail, but _buy_ at wholesale, please. ;)

>>> I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
>>> mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect
>>> by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted .
>>> Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for
>>> the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming
>>> too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly
>>> functioning .
>
> Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting
>those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on
>time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up
>and getting the front blade back on .

Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics,
please, once she's mounted.

[Larry Jaques]

On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:27:13 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

POP! And oh-so-easy to R&R, eh?

Are you using chains in the ice/snow?

[Larry Jaques]

Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting
weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free
on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too.

[Terry Coombs]

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
>>

>> Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am
>> awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new
>> parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she
>> works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on .
>
> Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics,
> please, once she's mounted.

It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and down - I
can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to take it off the
get at the mower drive box . I can either run it square for a straight push
or angle it to either side . It has a spring so if I hit something it tilts
, or can be locked upright . I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway ,
and it works just swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ...

--
Snag

[Terry Coombs]

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:27:13 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> dpb wrote:
>>> On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
>>>> now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear
>>>> , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
>>>> part of my traction problems.
>>>
>>> W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.
>>>
>>> Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
>>> something...
>>
>> During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
>> the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
>> quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
>> able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
>> get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
>> bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !
>
> POP! And oh-so-easy to R&R, eh?
>
> Are you using chains in the ice/snow?

One of my first purchases was a set of chains - because I knew from the
start clearing ice and snow would be the primary winter use for it .

--
Snag

[Steve W.]

The only reason they are still up is probably because it's pictures and
not a single file.
They went after a few other sites with lawyers. Told them to take the
manuals off line or else.

> The only problem I see with letting the tractor carry the deck is that it
> can then cut taller where the ground dips . I don't think that will be a
> problem with the rough cutting I have planned though . Good to know I can
> run it either way , I did get the adjuster on the tractor freed up yesterday
> .
> So many people have contributed information , my thanks to all !


--

Steve W.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Friend that's giving me the leaky deere has a sidemount weight system
on his tractor to allow mowing the ditch without tipping over. It
hangs a hundred pounds or so about 3 feet out on the high side to hold
it down!!

[Ed Huntress]

That sounds like an outrigger sailing canoe I used to sail on Carnegie
Lake in NJ. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

[Larry Jaques]

On Tue, 19 May 2015 08:22:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

That's cool! Hyd or pin/hole angle adjustment?

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Larry Jaques]

You never thought you'd see an outrigger on a tractor, huh?

[Terry Coombs]

Pin in hole . Probably worked better when new , there's some slop now in the
pivot holes . Sometimes tends to climb when dragging backwards . There are
also two sleeves with holes on the back side at the ends , look like they
were maybe for some kind of slider or something to prevent gouging say when
plowing snow .

--
Snag

[Terry Coombs]

We see them all the time up here on mower units . The sides of some of
these roads is pretty steep , they run a mower deck on a boom and need
balance weights .

--
Snag