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Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
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John Doe
Apr 22, 2019, 4:23:33 PM4/22/19
to
I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
flat bar.
The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be cut
to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45° and
reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of course
strength is important.
Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide 1/8
inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
whatever.
Will this or anything cheaper do...
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
1/4 inch thick steel.
flat bar.
The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be cut
to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45° and
reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of course
strength is important.
Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide 1/8
inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
whatever.
Will this or anything cheaper do...
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
1/4 inch thick steel.
David Billington
Apr 22, 2019, 5:04:50 PM4/22/19
to
small radius and the quantity required. For me I would assume you have a
bench vice and that would be a first choice if you have nothing better,
I do. Maybe fit some aluminium angle to clamp the material to act as
soft jaws and then place a steel block against the strip and hammer with
a suitable hammer such as maybe a 2lbs lump hammer, should be an easy job.
Terry Coombs
Apr 22, 2019, 5:54:24 PM4/22/19
to
bolts/rods sticking straight up and about an inch apart . Instant
improvised bending fixture . If you have a heat source , torch or
whatever , heating it red hot will make it much easier . If not , a
hammer can help persuade to bar to bend . And take out any unintended
kinks .
--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !
John Doe
Apr 22, 2019, 6:26:35 PM4/22/19
to
in the future.
What would be a suitable vice for using a vice brake to safely bend
1/8 inch thick 1 inch wide steel flat bar? Whatever sort of common
steel.
This looks tight enough (the two pieces on the bottom)...
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71s8TWkcqcL._SL1600_.jpg
That was done using a 5 inch vice brake, I suppose the 4 inch
version will do as well.
John Doe
Apr 22, 2019, 6:33:23 PM4/22/19
to
Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
> John Doe wrote:
>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick
>> steel flat bar.
>>
>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be
>> cut to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45°
> John Doe wrote:
>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick
>> steel flat bar.
>>
>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be
>> and reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of
>> course strength is important.
>>
>> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide
>> 1/8 inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
>> whatever.
>>
>> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
>> I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
>> 1/4 inch thick steel.
> Â Do you own a vise or know someone who does ? Clamp 2 - 1/4" or
>> course strength is important.
>>
>> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide
>> 1/8 inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
>> whatever.
>>
>> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
>> I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
>> 1/4 inch thick steel.
> 5/16" bolts/rods sticking straight up and about an inch apart .
> Instant improvised bending fixture . If you have a heat source ,
> torch or whatever , heating it red hot will make it much easier .
> If not , a hammer can help persuade to bar to bend . And take out
> any unintended kinks .
Can you improvise a vise brake?
> Instant improvised bending fixture . If you have a heat source ,
> torch or whatever , heating it red hot will make it much easier .
> If not , a hammer can help persuade to bar to bend . And take out
> any unintended kinks .
Terry Coombs
Apr 22, 2019, 6:54:39 PM4/22/19
to
pics , assume that's what he's making) I'd fab something for the 12 ton
hydraulic press .
John Doe
Apr 22, 2019, 7:12:39 PM4/22/19
to
Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
> John Doe wrote:
>> Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
>>> John Doe wrote:
>>>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick
>>>> steel flat bar.
>>>>
>>>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be
>>>> cut to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45°
>>>> and reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of
>>>> course strength is important.
>>>>
>>>> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide
>>>> 1/8 inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
>>>> whatever.
>>>>
>>>> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>>>> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
>>>> I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
>>>> 1/4 inch thick steel.
>>> Â Do you own a vise or know someone who does ? Clamp 2 - 1/4" or
>>> 5/16" bolts/rods sticking straight up and about an inch apart .
>>> Instant improvised bending fixture . If you have a heat source ,
>>> torch or whatever , heating it red hot will make it much easier .
>>> If not , a hammer can help persuade to bar to bend . And take out
>>> any unintended kinks .
Thanks. Looks very efficient for bending certain things.
> John Doe wrote:
>> Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
>>> John Doe wrote:
>>>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick
>>>> steel flat bar.
>>>>
>>>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be
>>>> cut to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45°
>>>> and reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of
>>>> course strength is important.
>>>>
>>>> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide
>>>> 1/8 inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
>>>> whatever.
>>>>
>>>> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>>>> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
>>>> I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
>>>> 1/4 inch thick steel.
>>> Â Do you own a vise or know someone who does ? Clamp 2 - 1/4" or
>>> 5/16" bolts/rods sticking straight up and about an inch apart .
>>> Instant improvised bending fixture . If you have a heat source ,
>>> torch or whatever , heating it red hot will make it much easier .
>>> If not , a hammer can help persuade to bar to bend . And take out
>>> any unintended kinks .
>> Can you improvise a vise brake?
> I don't know about the OP , but if I needed to do this (looked at
> his pics , assume that's what he's making) I'd fab something for
> the 12 ton hydraulic press .
1/16 inch less thick, and half the angle as this...
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71s8TWkcqcL._SL1600_.jpg
Would be useful if the poster told customers what vise he used. He
said he didn't need to use a cheater bar, so apparently it wasn't
too difficult.
John Doe
Apr 22, 2019, 7:32:19 PM4/22/19
to
I wrote:
> Can you improvise a vise brake?
About using U bar and T bar.
> Can you improvise a vise brake?
whit3rd
Apr 22, 2019, 9:12:52 PM4/22/19
to
On Monday, April 22, 2019 at 1:23:33 PM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
> flat bar.
Easiest is to press with an edge into a V block; sometimes that an be
> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
> flat bar.
done in a vise, but 'easy' means a press (hydraulic press is a nice choice).
A jig that keeps the edge clean is basically a sheet-metal brake (but maybe
not as wide as the tin-workers use). That requires a long lever to swing
the moving jaw, but can be cobbled together from heavy steel parts and (maybe)
a door hinge(s). Easy if you have welding tools and scrap iron, more difficult
with drill/bolts/hardware-store-steel.
Jim Wilkins
Apr 23, 2019, 6:33:38 AM4/23/19
to
"John Doe" <alway...@message.header> wrote in message
news:q9lf2n$9c8$1...@dont-email.me...
https://www.harborfreight.com/compact-bender-38470.html
news:q9lf2n$9c8$1...@dont-email.me...
Ed Huntress
Apr 23, 2019, 10:30:25 AM4/23/19
to
metalworkers is a vise. A BIG vise. A VERY big vise.
That's why a BIG vise is one of the first things home metalworkers try
to acquire. There are lots of limited-purpose bending devices, one or
another of which will do your job just fine and be cheaper, but a BIG
vise will be one of the most useful and versatile tools you can get.
BIG vises are not cheap. Most of us acquire them used, in one way or
another. I've had mine for 40 years so I'm of no help in getting one
now. But maybe someone else can make some suggestions. You're on
Staten Island, right? There used to be lots of small shops over there.
Somewhere, there is a vise for you.
--
Ed Huntress
dca...@krl.org
Apr 23, 2019, 11:38:57 AM4/23/19
to
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 10:30:25 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
>
> That's why a BIG vise is one of the first things home metalworkers try
> to acquire. There are lots of limited-purpose bending devices, one or
> another of which will do your job just fine and be cheaper, but a BIG
> vise will be one of the most useful and versatile tools you can get.
>
> BIG vises are not cheap. Most of us acquire them used, in one way or
> another. I've had mine for 40 years so I'm of no help in getting one
> now. But maybe someone else can make some suggestions. You're on
> Staten Island, right? There used to be lots of small shops over there.
> Somewhere, there is a vise for you.
>
> --
> Ed Huntress
Try Craigslist and Ebay. Big vices are heavy so finding one close to home is good.
>
> That's why a BIG vise is one of the first things home metalworkers try
> to acquire. There are lots of limited-purpose bending devices, one or
> another of which will do your job just fine and be cheaper, but a BIG
> vise will be one of the most useful and versatile tools you can get.
>
> BIG vises are not cheap. Most of us acquire them used, in one way or
> another. I've had mine for 40 years so I'm of no help in getting one
> now. But maybe someone else can make some suggestions. You're on
> Staten Island, right? There used to be lots of small shops over there.
> Somewhere, there is a vise for you.
>
> --
> Ed Huntress
I got a 6 inch Parker vice at the local scrap yard for $ .25 a lb. But have only seen one vice there.
Dan
Clare Snyder
Apr 23, 2019, 1:52:23 PM4/23/19
to
metal bending tools designed for precisly the job you want to do, blus
about a hundred for other metal bending tasks.
Clare Snyder
Apr 23, 2019, 1:58:45 PM4/23/19
to
http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-metal-bender-5
Scale it up or down as required.
or https://cocktailvp.com/make-a-metal-bender-homemade-diy-tool/
Or just head over to Harbor Freight with $50.
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 2:48:09 PM4/23/19
to
Although I agree 100% with the need for a vise, seems to me using a
big hammer might be most efficient...
Simply a hammer, a chisel, and a metal piece set on the
ground/anvil. The metal piece can even have rails to keep the flat
bar in line. So all I need to do is find a metal piece separated by
1 inch (or whatever the separation for a small radius). A heavy duty
U bar might work well, if I can find the right size with thick
enough walls. But surely there must be multiple possibilities in a
legitimate hardware store like Lowe's, Home Depot, or McMaster Carr.
Then maybe attach some metal pieces at a right angle to keep the
flat bar aligned. Sharpen up the chisel, and beat on it.
I'm assuming hammering won't damage the flat bar any more than
pressing it will.
--
Harbor Freight is a disgusting suggestion, typical of trolls.
Whenever passing one, I avert my eyes.
big hammer might be most efficient...
Simply a hammer, a chisel, and a metal piece set on the
ground/anvil. The metal piece can even have rails to keep the flat
bar in line. So all I need to do is find a metal piece separated by
1 inch (or whatever the separation for a small radius). A heavy duty
U bar might work well, if I can find the right size with thick
enough walls. But surely there must be multiple possibilities in a
legitimate hardware store like Lowe's, Home Depot, or McMaster Carr.
Then maybe attach some metal pieces at a right angle to keep the
flat bar aligned. Sharpen up the chisel, and beat on it.
I'm assuming hammering won't damage the flat bar any more than
pressing it will.
--
Harbor Freight is a disgusting suggestion, typical of trolls.
Whenever passing one, I avert my eyes.
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 2:54:09 PM4/23/19
to
Coincidentally, I found a $50 bill in a parking lot near a Harbor Freight.
I would never even consider entering one of their stores.
--
Clare Snyder <clare snyder.on.ca> wrote:
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> From: Clare Snyder <clare snyder.on.ca>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 13:58:44 -0400
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
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I would never even consider entering one of their stores.
--
Clare Snyder <clare snyder.on.ca> wrote:
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> From: Clare Snyder <clare snyder.on.ca>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 13:58:44 -0400
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John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 2:56:22 PM4/23/19
to
No thanks. Selling out one's fellow citizens in such an obvious way is pathetic.
--
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com> wrote:
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> "John Doe" <always.look message.header> wrote in message
> news:q9lf2n$9c8$1 dont-email.me...
--
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com> wrote:
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> From: "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 06:33:42 -0400
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
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>
> "John Doe" <always.look message.header> wrote in message
> news:q9lf2n$9c8$1 dont-email.me...
>> David Billington <djb invalid.com> wrote:
>>
>>> John Doe wrote:
>>
>>>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick
>>>> steel flat bar.
>>>>
>>>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be
>>>> cut to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45卿ｫ
>>
>>> John Doe wrote:
>>
>>>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick
>>>> steel flat bar.
>>>>
>>>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be
Jim Wilkins
Apr 23, 2019, 4:02:15 PM4/23/19
to
"John Doe" <alway...@message.header> wrote in message
news:q9nml2$ae4$1...@dont-email.me...
> ......
> Harbor Freight is a disgusting suggestion, typical of trolls.
> Whenever passing one, I avert my eyes.
>
Which reseller of Chinese products do you consider acceptable?
> Whenever passing one, I avert my eyes.
>
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 4:51:36 PM4/23/19
to
There are still some products made in the USA, or at least made in
Canada or Mexico. Whether one tries to buy products made in their
own country, or puts at least some effort into the matter, only the
Shadow knows. But one should not enthusiastically sell out its
fellow citizens. Avoiding Harbor Freight is very easy to do.
Spamming Harbor Freight is just trolling...
--
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com> wrote:
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> From: "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 16:02:27 -0400
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Canada or Mexico. Whether one tries to buy products made in their
own country, or puts at least some effort into the matter, only the
Shadow knows. But one should not enthusiastically sell out its
fellow citizens. Avoiding Harbor Freight is very easy to do.
Spamming Harbor Freight is just trolling...
--
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com> wrote:
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> From: "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne gmail.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
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> "John Doe" <always.look message.header> wrote in message
> news:q9nml2$ae4$1 dont-email.me...
> "John Doe" <always.look message.header> wrote in message
Clare Snyder
Apr 23, 2019, 5:17:40 PM4/23/19
to
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 18:56:19 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>No thanks. Selling out one's fellow citizens in such an obvious way is pathetic.
And exactly how is making your own metal bender, as was my PRIMARY
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>No thanks. Selling out one's fellow citizens in such an obvious way is pathetic.
recommendation "selling out your fellow citizens"? unless you use
chinese steel to make it. Then again, the chances are pretty darn good
the metal he's bending is Chinese anyway - - - - - -
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 6:43:17 PM4/23/19
to
How about four thick square bars, maybe 0.5" x 1" x 6" each (the two
crosswise bars can be short), some superglue, and maybe four screws
(although superglue is great against shearing pressure).
Just arrange the bars in a pound sign, a tic-tac-toe box. Glue and
then maybe screw them together. One of the bars to be bent can be used
as the divide for gluing the crosswise bars that holds the two main
bars together and keeps the bend straight.
If that has been done before (seems like it should have), please post
links. I vaguely recall trying something similar.
--
crosswise bars can be short), some superglue, and maybe four screws
(although superglue is great against shearing pressure).
Just arrange the bars in a pound sign, a tic-tac-toe box. Glue and
then maybe screw them together. One of the bars to be bent can be used
as the divide for gluing the crosswise bars that holds the two main
bars together and keeps the bend straight.
If that has been done before (seems like it should have), please post
links. I vaguely recall trying something similar.
--
David Billington
Apr 23, 2019, 7:37:17 PM4/23/19
to
On 23/04/2019 23:43, John Doe wrote:
> How about four thick square bars, maybe 0.5" x 1" x 6" each (the two
> crosswise bars can be short), some superglue, and maybe four screws
> (although superglue is great against shearing pressure).
>
> Just arrange the bars in a pound sign, a tic-tac-toe box. Glue and
> then maybe screw them together. One of the bars to be bent can be used
> as the divide for gluing the crosswise bars that holds the two main
> bars together and keeps the bend straight.
>
> If that has been done before (seems like it should have), please post
> links. I vaguely recall trying something similar.
>
>
>
>
>
To me you seem to be over thinking this project but that may indicate
> How about four thick square bars, maybe 0.5" x 1" x 6" each (the two
> crosswise bars can be short), some superglue, and maybe four screws
> (although superglue is great against shearing pressure).
>
> Just arrange the bars in a pound sign, a tic-tac-toe box. Glue and
> then maybe screw them together. One of the bars to be bent can be used
> as the divide for gluing the crosswise bars that holds the two main
> bars together and keeps the bend straight.
>
> If that has been done before (seems like it should have), please post
> links. I vaguely recall trying something similar.
>
>
>
>
>
lack of experience with the type of job you're asking about on your
part. Do you not have a bench vice? For me the job you asked about
seemed a trivial job with a bench vice, metal block, and suitable
hammer. You can hammer directly on the steel strip you want to bend when
clamped in a vice but the steel block helps spread the load and produce
a neater bend.
Larry Jaques
Apr 23, 2019, 8:13:37 PM4/23/19
to
https://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-bar-and-rod-bender-38471.html
--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 8:17:20 PM4/23/19
to
simple, easy, and should be more accurate than beating on the flat
bar. I believe it would be even more accurate than using a vise brake.
Did you like the part about the structure serving two purposes?
Holding the crosswise pieces together and keeping the bend straight,
at the same time?
I'm currently looking for materials. Specifically looking at thick
flat bar. Sometimes you can find ready-made stuff that nicely fits the
bill. There might be something that will work but is meant for a
different task, but finding stuff like that is like finding a needle
in a haystack. The selection of premade things is infinite, especially
nowadays given the Internet.
No, I have no vices. I do have a very small vise. But like I already
said "I agree 100% with the need for a [big] vise". My friendly next-
door neighbor had one, that and lots of other stuff in his shop I was
free to use. But he's gone. I would happily buy a decent vise if it
fit my need for this endeavor. What matters to me is getting it done
right, that's all.
Larry Jaques
Apr 23, 2019, 8:21:54 PM4/23/19
to
On Mon, 22 Apr 2019 22:04:47 +0100, David Billington <d...@invalid.com>
wrote:
>On 22/04/2019 21:23, John Doe wrote:
>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
>> flat bar.
>>
>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be cut
>> to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45? and
clearly a Chinese import.
>> I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
>> 1/4 inch thick steel.
>>
>>
>It would help to know what equipment you have and what you consider as a
>small radius and the quantity required. For me I would assume you have a
>bench vice and that would be a first choice if you have nothing better,
>I do. Maybe fit some aluminium angle to clamp the material to act as
>soft jaws and then place a steel block against the strip and hammer with
>a suitable hammer such as maybe a 2lbs lump hammer, should be an easy job.
I damaged more stuff as a kid trying that hammer/vise route.
wrote:
>On 22/04/2019 21:23, John Doe wrote:
>> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
>> flat bar.
>>
>> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be cut
>> reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of course
>> strength is important.
>>
>> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide 1/8
>> inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
>> whatever.
>>
>> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>>
>> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
The truly funny part for this troll is that the image he gave is
>> strength is important.
>>
>> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide 1/8
>> inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
>> whatever.
>>
>> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>>
>> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
clearly a Chinese import.
>> I will look for something smaller. Don't need to bend 4 inch wide
>> 1/4 inch thick steel.
>>
>>
>It would help to know what equipment you have and what you consider as a
>small radius and the quantity required. For me I would assume you have a
>bench vice and that would be a first choice if you have nothing better,
>I do. Maybe fit some aluminium angle to clamp the material to act as
>soft jaws and then place a steel block against the strip and hammer with
>a suitable hammer such as maybe a 2lbs lump hammer, should be an easy job.
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 8:33:15 PM4/23/19
to
Apparently this troll has a deranged sense of humor. I wasn't
promoting anything. In fact, the image I linked to had no such marks
on it whatsoever, and there was no link to buying the product. This
troll is full of shit. Also, I did not say I would bend over
backwards to avoid buying Chinese products. But I would never
promote Harbor Freight. I have never even been in their stinking
store. I would not so blatantly trash my fellow citizens. Some
scumbags could not care less about their own...
--
Larry Jaques <ljaques invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!feeder.eternal-september.org!news.dns-netz.com!news.freedyn.net!newsreader4.netcologne.de!news.netcologne.de!peer01.ams1!peer.ams1.xlned.com!news.xlned.com!peer01.am4!peer.am4.highwinds-media.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx46.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Larry Jaques <ljaques invalid.diversifycomm.com>
> Message-ID: <6savbe9fd3gkt01kp9ke2ae5uk3oqebvcf 4ax.com>
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> Xref: reader01.eternal-september.org rec.crafts.metalworking:524828
>
> On Mon, 22 Apr 2019 22:04:47 +0100, David Billington <djb invalid.com>
promoting anything. In fact, the image I linked to had no such marks
on it whatsoever, and there was no link to buying the product. This
troll is full of shit. Also, I did not say I would bend over
backwards to avoid buying Chinese products. But I would never
promote Harbor Freight. I have never even been in their stinking
store. I would not so blatantly trash my fellow citizens. Some
scumbags could not care less about their own...
--
Larry Jaques <ljaques invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!feeder.eternal-september.org!news.dns-netz.com!news.freedyn.net!newsreader4.netcologne.de!news.netcologne.de!peer01.ams1!peer.ams1.xlned.com!news.xlned.com!peer01.am4!peer.am4.highwinds-media.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx46.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Larry Jaques <ljaques invalid.diversifycomm.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Reply-To: ljaques invalid.diversifycomm.com
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Message-ID: <6savbe9fd3gkt01kp9ke2ae5uk3oqebvcf 4ax.com>
> X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 6.00/32.1186
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> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 17:21:58 -0700
> X-Received-Bytes: 2529
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> Xref: reader01.eternal-september.org rec.crafts.metalworking:524828
>
> On Mon, 22 Apr 2019 22:04:47 +0100, David Billington <djb invalid.com>
dca...@krl.org
Apr 23, 2019, 8:46:09 PM4/23/19
to
On Tuesday, April 23, 2019 at 2:54:09 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
> Coincidentally, I found a $50 bill in a parking lot near a Harbor Freight.
> I would never even consider entering one of their stores.
>
That is really a funny attitude ! Can you say why you will not consider entering a Harbor Freight store?
> Coincidentally, I found a $50 bill in a parking lot near a Harbor Freight.
> I would never even consider entering one of their stores.
>
My own attitude is to buy things made in Yorklyn, DE. If not made in Delaware then buy things that are made on Earth.
Dan
Ned Simmons
Apr 23, 2019, 8:58:11 PM4/23/19
to
Well this reaction was both as predictable and entertaining as an
overweight catfight on the Jerry Springer show.
The answer to the original question, for the 3rd or 4th time: vise &
hammer.
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 00:33:12 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>Apparently this troll has a deranged sense of humor. I wasn't
>promoting anything. In fact, the image I linked to had no such marks
>on it whatsoever, and there was no link to buying the product. This
>troll is full of shit. Also, I did not say I would bend over
>backwards to avoid buying Chinese products. But I would never
>promote Harbor Freight. I have never even been in their stinking
>store. I would not so blatantly trash my fellow citizens. Some
>scumbags could not care less about their own...
--
Ned Simmons
overweight catfight on the Jerry Springer show.
The answer to the original question, for the 3rd or 4th time: vise &
hammer.
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 00:33:12 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>Apparently this troll has a deranged sense of humor. I wasn't
>promoting anything. In fact, the image I linked to had no such marks
>on it whatsoever, and there was no link to buying the product. This
>troll is full of shit. Also, I did not say I would bend over
>backwards to avoid buying Chinese products. But I would never
>promote Harbor Freight. I have never even been in their stinking
>store. I would not so blatantly trash my fellow citizens. Some
>scumbags could not care less about their own...
--
Jim Wilkins
Apr 23, 2019, 9:34:33 PM4/23/19
to
<dca...@krl.org> wrote in message
news:9c09ab44-a291-4014...@googlegroups.com...
I try to buy US-made products, which more and more means buying NOS
parts for things made here long ago. A few days ago I had the motor of
my 1960's Maytag washer apart to work on the starting switch. Before
that I made some parts on the lathe for a Sears garden tractor.
news:9c09ab44-a291-4014...@googlegroups.com...
parts for things made here long ago. A few days ago I had the motor of
my 1960's Maytag washer apart to work on the starting switch. Before
that I made some parts on the lathe for a Sears garden tractor.
Terry Coombs
Apr 23, 2019, 10:20:07 PM4/23/19
to
to do the job . Aren't you the same prick (under a different nym) that
shot down every single suggestion on a different project recently ?
You're sure runnin' the same pattern .
John Doe
Apr 23, 2019, 10:26:17 PM4/23/19
to
This helpless poster needs somebody told its hand,
to help it find the Ignore Thread key...
--
Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com>
> Message-ID: <q9oh4l$teq$1 dont-email.me>
> References: <q9l7ru$l9i$1 dont-email.me> <q9nml2$ae4$1 dont-email.me> <q9o4dr$67g$1 dont-email.me> <q9o7jb$ngm$1 dont-email.me> <q9o9u8$1la$1 dont-email.me>
> Mime-Version: 1.0
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> User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.2; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/52.9.1
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> Xref: reader01.eternal-september.org rec.crafts.metalworking:524834
> ś˙ Then quit fuckin' around posting ad nauseum and pay a metal fab shop
to help it find the Ignore Thread key...
--
Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 21:20:46 -0500
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
> Lines: 54
> Message-ID: <q9oh4l$teq$1 dont-email.me>
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>
> On 4/23/2019 7:17 PM, John Doe wrote:
> On 4/23/2019 7:17 PM, John Doe wrote:
Terry Coombs
Apr 23, 2019, 10:29:27 PM4/23/19
to
it's a wonder my two brothers and I made it to adulthood . Not unscathed
, but we all made it .
Terry Coombs
Apr 23, 2019, 10:48:06 PM4/23/19
to
On 4/23/2019 9:26 PM, John Doe wrote:
> This helpless poster needs somebody told its hand,
> to help it find the Ignore Thread key...
>
Yup , same prick .
> This helpless poster needs somebody told its hand,
> to help it find the Ignore Thread key...
>
John Doe
Apr 24, 2019, 12:25:18 AM4/24/19
to
This control freak needs to find the Ignore Thread key,
before its fragile little world falls apart...
--
Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 21:48:48 -0500
> Message-ID: <q9oip4$567$1 dont-email.me>
> References: <q9l7ru$l9i$1 dont-email.me> <q9nml2$ae4$1 dont-email.me> <q9o4dr$67g$1 dont-email.me> <q9o7jb$ngm$1 dont-email.me> <q9o9u8$1la$1 dont-email.me> <q9oh4l$teq$1 dont-email.me> <q9ohg7$tpk$1 dont-email.me>
> Injection-Info: reader02.eternal-september.org; posting-host="414fc7caa290f8b90a0b135503d14724"; logging-data="5319"; mail-complaints-to="abuse eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX1+3GE+wXyxOGGp1rlwR8E8hnw2uv1Rk7wg="
> In-Reply-To: <q9ohg7$tpk$1 dont-email.me>
before its fragile little world falls apart...
--
Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
> Lines: 12
> Message-ID: <q9oip4$567$1 dont-email.me>
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>
> On 4/23/2019 9:26 PM, John Doe wrote:
>> This helpless poster needs somebody told its hand,
>> to help it find the Ignore Thread key...
>>
> ś˙ Yup , same prick .
> On 4/23/2019 9:26 PM, John Doe wrote:
>> This helpless poster needs somebody told its hand,
>> to help it find the Ignore Thread key...
>>
Terry Coombs
Apr 24, 2019, 12:44:21 AM4/24/19
to
On 4/23/2019 11:25 PM, John Doe wrote:
> This control freak needs to find the Ignore Thread key,
> before its fragile little world falls apart...
>
Go ahead and deflect , snowflake . The jig is up , you've been outed .
> This control freak needs to find the Ignore Thread key,
> before its fragile little world falls apart...
>
John Doe
Apr 24, 2019, 7:25:44 AM4/24/19
to
Instead of trolling and acting like a dick (for lack thereof),
why not talk about metalworking...
why not talk about metalworking...
Terry Coombs
Apr 24, 2019, 7:44:40 AM4/24/19
to
improvised bending fixture using a vise . What I suggested is an
improvisation of a blacksmith's bending fixture . You ignored my
suggestion ... and you've shot down every other suggestion offered ,
plus painting anyone who buys from Harbor freight as a treasonous scum .
It seems to me that YOU are the troll . You may have noticed that almost
all my posts ARE about metalworking ... though I doubt you read them . I
have shop full of tools of all kinds , you apparently have only a
keyboard . Good luck with using that as a metal brake .
dca...@krl.org
Apr 24, 2019, 9:06:11 AM4/24/19
to
Dan
Jim Wilkins
Apr 24, 2019, 10:20:55 AM4/24/19
to
<dca...@krl.org> wrote in message
news:48416d97-55b9-43e1...@googlegroups.com...
Mostly the first, though it bothered me when management declared that
devices I had helped develop couldn't be economically manufactured in
the USA. So I politely worked with the Japanese or Chinese engineers
tasked to put them into production.
I also like to customize things, and I can't practically modify weak
plastic parts or locked microcontroller code.
news:48416d97-55b9-43e1...@googlegroups.com...
devices I had helped develop couldn't be economically manufactured in
the USA. So I politely worked with the Japanese or Chinese engineers
tasked to put them into production.
I also like to customize things, and I can't practically modify weak
plastic parts or locked microcontroller code.
John Doe
Apr 24, 2019, 11:57:43 AM4/24/19
to
McMaster Carr...
Low-Carbon Steel Bar 3/8" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 1/2 Feet Long, four
pieces
I didn't want to cut the thick steel, so 6 inch pieces will do.
Hopefully 1 1/2" square areas using superglue will be strong enough
without screws. Then it can be broken apart, scraped clean, and
reglued to some other form, as needed.
The making should be easy enough... Glue a crosswise piece to a main
piece using a square. Stick a rectangle bar spacer against the main
piece and glue the second main piece to the crosswise piece (the
precise dimension is yet unknown). Then use the material to be bent
as a spacer to glue the second crosswise piece.
If screws are necessary, maybe they can be offset from center so
that adjustments and re-screwing will not be cluttered. Does
ordinary tap and die stuff work on such steel? I like aluminum
because it doesn't destroy my tools.
Hammer and chisel sold separately.
--
Low-Carbon Steel Bar 3/8" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 1/2 Feet Long, four
pieces
I didn't want to cut the thick steel, so 6 inch pieces will do.
Hopefully 1 1/2" square areas using superglue will be strong enough
without screws. Then it can be broken apart, scraped clean, and
reglued to some other form, as needed.
The making should be easy enough... Glue a crosswise piece to a main
piece using a square. Stick a rectangle bar spacer against the main
piece and glue the second main piece to the crosswise piece (the
precise dimension is yet unknown). Then use the material to be bent
as a spacer to glue the second crosswise piece.
If screws are necessary, maybe they can be offset from center so
that adjustments and re-screwing will not be cluttered. Does
ordinary tap and die stuff work on such steel? I like aluminum
because it doesn't destroy my tools.
Hammer and chisel sold separately.
--
Terry Coombs
Apr 24, 2019, 1:40:27 PM4/24/19
to
On 4/24/2019 10:57 AM, John Doe wrote:
> McMaster Carr...
>
> Low-Carbon Steel Bar 3/8" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 1/2 Feet Long, four
> pieces
>
> I didn't want to cut the thick steel, so 6 inch pieces will do.
> Hopefully 1 1/2" square areas using superglue will be strong enough
> without screws. Then it can be broken apart, scraped clean, and
> reglued to some other form, as needed.
>
> The making should be easy enough... Glue a crosswise piece to a main
> piece using a square. Stick a rectangle bar spacer against the main
> piece and glue the second main piece to the crosswise piece (the
> precise dimension is yet unknown). Then use the material to be bent
> as a spacer to glue the second crosswise piece.
>
> If screws are necessary, maybe they can be offset from center so
> that adjustments and re-screwing will not be cluttered. Does
> ordinary tap and die stuff work on such steel? I like aluminum
> because it doesn't destroy my tools.
>
> Hammer and chisel sold separately.
>
>
>
>
>
I just have one question . How are you going to hold your fixture
> McMaster Carr...
>
> Low-Carbon Steel Bar 3/8" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 1/2 Feet Long, four
> pieces
>
> I didn't want to cut the thick steel, so 6 inch pieces will do.
> Hopefully 1 1/2" square areas using superglue will be strong enough
> without screws. Then it can be broken apart, scraped clean, and
> reglued to some other form, as needed.
>
> The making should be easy enough... Glue a crosswise piece to a main
> piece using a square. Stick a rectangle bar spacer against the main
> piece and glue the second main piece to the crosswise piece (the
> precise dimension is yet unknown). Then use the material to be bent
> as a spacer to glue the second crosswise piece.
>
> If screws are necessary, maybe they can be offset from center so
> that adjustments and re-screwing will not be cluttered. Does
> ordinary tap and die stuff work on such steel? I like aluminum
> because it doesn't destroy my tools.
>
> Hammer and chisel sold separately.
>
>
>
>
>
still while you're trying to bend your pieces ? And one suggestion .
Bolt that thing together before you try to bend anything unless you like
pieces of flying steel coming at you at high velocity . Super/Crazy
glues rely on a closely fitted joint of uniform clearance . Common bar
stock ain't gonna be that uniform . Unless you can skim it with your
milling machine ... Oh wait , you don't have any machinery ... bummer .
John Doe
Apr 24, 2019, 1:46:30 PM4/24/19
to
A perpetual aging troll that cannot think outside of the box,
one reason this group has turned to shit...
--
Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com> wrote:
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> From: Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2019 12:40:34 -0500
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one reason this group has turned to shit...
--
Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com> wrote:
> Path: eternal-september.org!reader01.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Terry Coombs <snag_one msn.com>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Easiest/cheapest way/tool to bend small steel flat bar?
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>
> On 4/24/2019 10:57 AM, John Doe wrote:
>> McMaster Carr...
>>
>> Low-Carbon Steel Bar 3/8" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 1/2 Feet Long, four
>> pieces
>>
>> I didn't want to cut the thick steel, so 6 inch pieces will do.
>> Hopefully 1 1/2" square areas using superglue will be strong enough
>> without screws. Then it can be broken apart, scraped clean, and
>> reglued to some other form, as needed.
>>
>> The making should be easy enough... Glue a crosswise piece to a main
>> piece using a square. Stick a rectangle bar spacer against the main
>> piece and glue the second main piece to the crosswise piece (the
>> precise dimension is yet unknown). Then use the material to be bent
>> as a spacer to glue the second crosswise piece.
>>
>> If screws are necessary, maybe they can be offset from center so
>> that adjustments and re-screwing will not be cluttered. Does
>> ordinary tap and die stuff work on such steel? I like aluminum
>> because it doesn't destroy my tools.
>>
>> Hammer and chisel sold separately.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ś˙ I just have one question . How are you going to hold your fixture
> On 4/24/2019 10:57 AM, John Doe wrote:
>> McMaster Carr...
>>
>> Low-Carbon Steel Bar 3/8" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 1/2 Feet Long, four
>> pieces
>>
>> I didn't want to cut the thick steel, so 6 inch pieces will do.
>> Hopefully 1 1/2" square areas using superglue will be strong enough
>> without screws. Then it can be broken apart, scraped clean, and
>> reglued to some other form, as needed.
>>
>> The making should be easy enough... Glue a crosswise piece to a main
>> piece using a square. Stick a rectangle bar spacer against the main
>> piece and glue the second main piece to the crosswise piece (the
>> precise dimension is yet unknown). Then use the material to be bent
>> as a spacer to glue the second crosswise piece.
>>
>> If screws are necessary, maybe they can be offset from center so
>> that adjustments and re-screwing will not be cluttered. Does
>> ordinary tap and die stuff work on such steel? I like aluminum
>> because it doesn't destroy my tools.
>>
>> Hammer and chisel sold separately.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> still while you're trying to bend your pieces ? And one suggestion .
> Bolt that thing together before you try to bend anything unless you like
> pieces of flying steel coming at you at high velocity . Super/Crazy
> glues rely on a closely fitted joint of uniformś˙ clearance . Common bar
> Bolt that thing together before you try to bend anything unless you like
> pieces of flying steel coming at you at high velocity . Super/Crazy
Terry Coombs
Apr 24, 2019, 2:25:39 PM4/24/19
to
On 4/24/2019 12:46 PM, John Doe wrote:
> A perpetual aging troll that cannot think outside of the box,
> one reason this group has turned to shit...
>
No , it's gone to shit because of trolls like you .
> A perpetual aging troll that cannot think outside of the box,
> one reason this group has turned to shit...
>
Larry Jaques
Apr 26, 2019, 1:06:53 AM4/26/19
to
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 21:30:06 -0500, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:
No, unfortunately. Dad was Air Force, which frowned on that kind of
noise/hazard in Base Housing. After retirement, he was too busy with
other stuff. We didn't even have a compressor. I managed to blow up
a Clorox bottle full of gas from the calcium carbide and water,
though. It was flaming nicely when I let go. That li'l flame just
sucked right back in that teeny hole and showed me what hydrogen does
when it's compressed and on fire. Mom came running into my room ready
to shovel my remaining parts into the car to take me to the hospital,
but I lay there on my back LMAO, unharmed but for the ringing ears.
I'm sure I would have played with acetylene the same way if we'd had
an O/A rig. ;) That was my first teen year, 13.
--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
--John Locke
wrote:
noise/hazard in Base Housing. After retirement, he was too busy with
other stuff. We didn't even have a compressor. I managed to blow up
a Clorox bottle full of gas from the calcium carbide and water,
though. It was flaming nicely when I let go. That li'l flame just
sucked right back in that teeny hole and showed me what hydrogen does
when it's compressed and on fire. Mom came running into my room ready
to shovel my remaining parts into the car to take me to the hospital,
but I lay there on my back LMAO, unharmed but for the ringing ears.
I'm sure I would have played with acetylene the same way if we'd had
an O/A rig. ;) That was my first teen year, 13.
--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
--John Locke
Larry Jaques
Apr 26, 2019, 1:07:51 AM4/26/19
to
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 13:25:47 -0500, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:
>On 4/24/2019 12:46 PM, John Doe wrote:
>> A perpetual aging troll that cannot think outside of the box,
>> one reason this group has turned to shit...
>>
> No , it's gone to shit because of trolls like you .
The best way to handle trolls is to totally ignore them.
They _hate_ that.
-
It will be the best security for maintaining our liberties. A
nation of well-informed men who have been taught to know and
prize the rights which God has given them cannot be enslaved.
It is in the religion of ignorance that tyranny begins.
--Benjamin Franklin
wrote:
>On 4/24/2019 12:46 PM, John Doe wrote:
>> A perpetual aging troll that cannot think outside of the box,
>> one reason this group has turned to shit...
>>
> No , it's gone to shit because of trolls like you .
They _hate_ that.
-
It will be the best security for maintaining our liberties. A
nation of well-informed men who have been taught to know and
prize the rights which God has given them cannot be enslaved.
It is in the religion of ignorance that tyranny begins.
--Benjamin Franklin
Gerry
Apr 26, 2019, 11:02:22 PM4/26/19
to
Gunner Asch
May 1, 2019, 1:50:08 AM5/1/19
to
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 00:33:12 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>User-Agent: Xnews/2006.08.05
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>Cancel-Lock: sha1:pcsdQ+kHbJa8uFgHdyzL3qiSrRw=
>X-Received-Bytes: 4492
>X-Received-Body-CRC: 2987137786
>X-Antivirus: Avast (VPS 190430-6, 04/30/2019), Inbound message
>X-Antivirus-Status: Clean
>
>Apparently this troll has a deranged sense of humor. I wasn't
>promoting anything. In fact, the image I linked to had no such marks
>on it whatsoever, and there was no link to buying the product. This
>troll is full of shit. Also, I did not say I would bend over
>backwards to avoid buying Chinese products. But I would never
>promote Harbor Freight. I have never even been in their stinking
>store.
Really? Never in a HF? Some good tools in there. Lots of Taiwanese,
>Apparently this troll has a deranged sense of humor. I wasn't
>promoting anything. In fact, the image I linked to had no such marks
>on it whatsoever, and there was no link to buying the product. This
>troll is full of shit. Also, I did not say I would bend over
>backwards to avoid buying Chinese products. But I would never
>promote Harbor Freight. I have never even been in their stinking
>store.
some German, some US, etc etc.
I buy a lot of stuff in there. Trying to use only US tools today is
like trying to use US only conduit, steel etc etc.
Nearly impossible
__
"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.
No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.
Which is a very good thing."
Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Larry Jaques
May 3, 2019, 6:25:48 PM5/3/19
to
On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 23:02:14 -0400, Gerry <gerald...@yahoo.ca>
wrote:
Acetylene? Bbbut, my 52 year old memory said... OK, you're right.
Thanks for the catch.
wrote:
Thanks for the catch.
Gerry
May 3, 2019, 11:44:05 PM5/3/19
to
On Fri, 03 May 2019 15:25:51 -0700, Larry Jaques
Back in the late '50s a welding shop I frequented used an acetylene
generator that had provided lighting for one of the local churches
before electricity was available.
generator that had provided lighting for one of the local churches
before electricity was available.
John Doe
May 12, 2019, 7:50:26 PM5/12/19
to
Final gluing in process. Will be bending aluminum flat bar, 3/4" x
1/4". Using a 5/8" space for the steel jaws. That leaves only 1/8"
if the bend were 180°, but maybe it will do since the bend is only
45°. I need it tight as possible. If that doesn't work, the bars can
be broken apart, scraped clean, and reglued to 3/4" I guess.
The four steel bars are each 3/8" x 1 1/2" x 6".
The neat thing about this method is that the flat bar is guaranteed
to bend straight. Maybe something similar could be added to a big
vice. And of course making the jaw width easily variable would be
much better for general use. But that's not my concern.
1/4". Using a 5/8" space for the steel jaws. That leaves only 1/8"
if the bend were 180°, but maybe it will do since the bend is only
45°. I need it tight as possible. If that doesn't work, the bars can
be broken apart, scraped clean, and reglued to 3/4" I guess.
The four steel bars are each 3/8" x 1 1/2" x 6".
The neat thing about this method is that the flat bar is guaranteed
to bend straight. Maybe something similar could be added to a big
vice. And of course making the jaw width easily variable would be
much better for general use. But that's not my concern.
downtime null
May 13, 2019, 12:07:19 PM5/13/19
to
I've luck in the past with just heating where I want the bend with a MAP
gas torch and carefully bending it in a bench vice. You'll want to be
pretty quick about it once it's in the vice because the vice will sink
the heat from the bar. You can also carefully use a medium sized ball
peen hammer and gently persuade the bar into the bend you want on the
little "anvil" on the back of the vice.
John Doe <alway...@message.header> wrote:
> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
> flat bar.
>
> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be cut
> to suit. The bend needs to be well aligned. The bend is 45° and
gas torch and carefully bending it in a bench vice. You'll want to be
pretty quick about it once it's in the vice because the vice will sink
the heat from the bar. You can also carefully use a medium sized ball
peen hammer and gently persuade the bar into the bend you want on the
little "anvil" on the back of the vice.
John Doe <alway...@message.header> wrote:
> I would like to neatly bend some 7/8 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel
> flat bar.
>
> The bend point need not be a precise location, the ends can be cut
> reasonably accurate, reasonably small as possible radius. Of course
> strength is important.
>
> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide 1/8
> inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
> whatever.
>
> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>
> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
>
> strength is important.
>
> Best or cheapest way to put a small radius bend in 7/8 inch wide 1/8
> inch thick steel flat bar? I would rather not by a tool, but
> whatever.
>
> Will this or anything cheaper do...
>
> https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m%2ByID9oiL._SL1500_.jpg
>
John Doe
May 16, 2019, 7:37:24 PM5/16/19
to
Ordered a Yost 465 vise, and a 4" vise brake.
John Doe
May 28, 2019, 2:42:36 AM5/28/19
to
The vise brake works well, after reshaping and smoothing the
Chinese-made POS. It's a very sharp bend, just what I wanted. I also
rounded one of the plungers/blades to roughly 0.125" semicircle.
I practiced on some 0.125" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar, one half the
thickness and twice the width of the material to be used.
I figured the 0.25" flat bar to be used would be more difficult to
bend. One can figure that by envisioning the material to be bent
becoming thicker and narrower.
However... 0.25" x 0.75" (6061) aluminum flat bar just snaps when it
gets to about 20°! The second attempt used a blade that was not
rounded, but still sharp, same result.
So I will try 0.125" "low carbon" steel flat bar, although I would
like something lighter.
Is stronger aluminum more brittle than 6061? But I'm not sure the
vise brake is even compatible with aluminum, given the tight radius
of the bend.
Low carbon steel it is (at least until something else is ordered).
Chinese-made POS. It's a very sharp bend, just what I wanted. I also
rounded one of the plungers/blades to roughly 0.125" semicircle.
I practiced on some 0.125" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar, one half the
thickness and twice the width of the material to be used.
I figured the 0.25" flat bar to be used would be more difficult to
bend. One can figure that by envisioning the material to be bent
becoming thicker and narrower.
However... 0.25" x 0.75" (6061) aluminum flat bar just snaps when it
gets to about 20°! The second attempt used a blade that was not
rounded, but still sharp, same result.
So I will try 0.125" "low carbon" steel flat bar, although I would
like something lighter.
Is stronger aluminum more brittle than 6061? But I'm not sure the
vise brake is even compatible with aluminum, given the tight radius
of the bend.
Low carbon steel it is (at least until something else is ordered).
Ed Huntress
May 30, 2019, 11:55:22 AM5/30/19
to
On Tue, 28 May 2019 06:42:34 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>The vise brake works well, after reshaping and smoothing the
>Chinese-made POS. It's a very sharp bend, just what I wanted. I also
>rounded one of the plungers/blades to roughly 0.125" semicircle.
>
>I practiced on some 0.125" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar, one half the
>thickness and twice the width of the material to be used.
>
>I figured the 0.25" flat bar to be used would be more difficult to
>bend. One can figure that by envisioning the material to be bent
>becoming thicker and narrower.
>
>However... 0.25" x 0.75" (6061) aluminum flat bar just snaps when it
>gets to about 20°! The second attempt used a blade that was not
>rounded, but still sharp, same result.
>
>So I will try 0.125" "low carbon" steel flat bar, although I would
>like something lighter.
>
>Is stronger aluminum more brittle than 6061? But I'm not sure the
>vise brake is even compatible with aluminum, given the tight radius
>of the bend.
>
>Low carbon steel it is (at least until something else is ordered).
Your 6061 probably is in a hard temper. You can temporarily anneal it
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>The vise brake works well, after reshaping and smoothing the
>Chinese-made POS. It's a very sharp bend, just what I wanted. I also
>rounded one of the plungers/blades to roughly 0.125" semicircle.
>
>I practiced on some 0.125" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar, one half the
>thickness and twice the width of the material to be used.
>
>I figured the 0.25" flat bar to be used would be more difficult to
>bend. One can figure that by envisioning the material to be bent
>becoming thicker and narrower.
>
>However... 0.25" x 0.75" (6061) aluminum flat bar just snaps when it
>gets to about 20°! The second attempt used a blade that was not
>rounded, but still sharp, same result.
>
>So I will try 0.125" "low carbon" steel flat bar, although I would
>like something lighter.
>
>Is stronger aluminum more brittle than 6061? But I'm not sure the
>vise brake is even compatible with aluminum, given the tight radius
>of the bend.
>
>Low carbon steel it is (at least until something else is ordered).
with heat. Someone here probably can tell you the temperature; if you
don't get an answer, I'll look it up in my books.
It won't last long; heat and bend. 6061 age-hardens, and it will
return to something like T3 in a couple of weeks. It gets harder just
sitting there until it reaches the "natural" age-hardening value. It's
in the mid-range of hardness/strength for aluminum grades. Harder
usually is more brittle.
--
Ed Huntress
Clare Snyder
May 30, 2019, 12:25:49 PM5/30/19
to
On Thu, 30 May 2019 11:55:06 -0400, Ed Huntress
<hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>On Tue, 28 May 2019 06:42:34 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
><alway...@message.header> wrote:
>
>>The vise brake works well, after reshaping and smoothing the
>>Chinese-made POS. It's a very sharp bend, just what I wanted. I also
>>rounded one of the plungers/blades to roughly 0.125" semicircle.
>>
>>I practiced on some 0.125" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar, one half the
>>thickness and twice the width of the material to be used.
>>
>>I figured the 0.25" flat bar to be used would be more difficult to
>>bend. One can figure that by envisioning the material to be bent
>>becoming thicker and narrower.
>>
>>However... 0.25" x 0.75" (6061) aluminum flat bar just snaps when it
>>gets to about 20°! The second attempt used a blade that was not
>>rounded, but still sharp, same result.
Your problem is your 6061 is t6 hardness.Anneat it and you can bend
<hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>On Tue, 28 May 2019 06:42:34 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
><alway...@message.header> wrote:
>
>>The vise brake works well, after reshaping and smoothing the
>>Chinese-made POS. It's a very sharp bend, just what I wanted. I also
>>rounded one of the plungers/blades to roughly 0.125" semicircle.
>>
>>I practiced on some 0.125" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar, one half the
>>thickness and twice the width of the material to be used.
>>
>>I figured the 0.25" flat bar to be used would be more difficult to
>>bend. One can figure that by envisioning the material to be bent
>>becoming thicker and narrower.
>>
>>However... 0.25" x 0.75" (6061) aluminum flat bar just snaps when it
>>gets to about 20°! The second attempt used a blade that was not
>>rounded, but still sharp, same result.
it to a right angle at a radius of about 1/16"
>>
>>So I will try 0.125" "low carbon" steel flat bar, although I would
>>like something lighter.
>>
>>Is stronger aluminum more brittle than 6061? But I'm not sure the
>>vise brake is even compatible with aluminum, given the tight radius
>>of the bend.
Anneal it and you have no problem.
>>So I will try 0.125" "low carbon" steel flat bar, although I would
>>like something lighter.
>>
>>Is stronger aluminum more brittle than 6061? But I'm not sure the
>>vise brake is even compatible with aluminum, given the tight radius
>>of the bend.
Jim Wilkins
May 31, 2019, 11:41:11 AM5/31/19
to
"Clare Snyder" <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:de00feltk8hsu5la6...@4ax.com...
> ...
http://www.americanmachinetools.com/bend_radius.htm
news:de00feltk8hsu5la6...@4ax.com...
> ...
> Your problem is your 6061 is t6 hardness.Anneat it and you can bend
> it to a right angle at a radius of about 1/16"
http://www.cumberlandmetals.com/aluminum/minimum-bend-radii/
> it to a right angle at a radius of about 1/16"
http://www.americanmachinetools.com/bend_radius.htm
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