impact wrench
habbi
is rated at 380 ftlbs. All fitting are 1/4" M style and hose is 25' 3/8" ID.
It will not remove my lug nuts from my chev 1/2 ton truck. I tried pressures
from 90 up to 120 psi with no luck. It removed a few of them but some will
not loosen at all. I am using 1/2" drive impact sockets as well. Anyway are
these guns over rated, it is made in Taiwan. I noticed some ingersoll rand
and even sears brands rated up to 600-700 ftlbs, is this what I need. I
tried a friends Chicago pneumatic and it would not spin the nuts either.
Also there is an Allen set screw type plug in the side of the gun and it
says oil, how do you know how much to put in? Thanks
AL
rent or buy a much more powerful impact wrench but you might end up just
breaking off the stud.
"habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:QlKmf.137472$Ph4.4...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
habbi
the studs and torqued them to 140 ftlbs. The ones that came off still had
anti-seize on the studs, no rust.
"AL" <n...@mail.plz> wrote in message
news:u8GdnXtuQr4j6Abe...@comcast.com...
ATP*
"habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:QlKmf.137472$Ph4.4...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
sockets. If they are cheesy and whored out so that they do not fit tightly
on the lugnuts the play will suck the power of the impact gun up and even a
good impact gun will not perform well. A cheap impact gun should take
lugnuts off a 1/2 ton truck with no problem if the socket is good.
Tom Gardner
"habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:QlKmf.137472$Ph4.4...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
Get a good 4-way and stand on it.
Jerry Foster
"habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:QlKmf.137472$Ph4.4...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
I have a CHEAP (HF) impact wrench and am well satisfied with it. I doubt it
would stand up long under day in and day out use, but...
Anyhow, a friend brought me his van that someone had nailed the lug nuts and
he'd snapped a lug wrench trying to change a tire. The impact wrench
pounded on a few of them for a while before they came, but they all
loosened. (He then re-tightened them by hand to a more reasonable level...)
I had a lug nut on my pickup that someone probably cross-threaded and then
drove it home with an impact wrench. It wouldn't come for ANYTHING. We put
a big impact wrench on it and snapped the stud (fortunately, studs are cheap
and usually easy to replace...).
As to you question about oil, two or three drops is usually enough. If you
put in too much, it won't stay in it for long... The excess will come
spraying out the tool exhaust and usually up your sleeve, in your face or in
some other "convenient" place... Air tool oil is cheap and a properly oiled
tool is a heck of a lot more powerful than one that is dry...
Jerry
Grant Erwin
I have a cheapo 1/2" impact wrench, won't take off lug nuts either. A bigger one
works just fine, same socket. Some day I'll get a good one ..
GWE
Pete C.
I picked up one of the Harbor Freight 1/2" impact / 3/8" ratchet combos
a while back when it was on a cheaper-than-dirt sale. When I first tried
them they seemed a little under powered, but I figured they would at
least save me some awkward hand cramping wrenching.
A month or two later I had to do brakes and replace some brake line on
my truck. I figured I'd give the HF wrenches a shot and amazingly enough
they worked beautifully. It seemed that they needed a minute or two of
use for the air motor vanes to seat or something, but after that they
had plenty of power.
The only fasteners that the HF impact wouldn't remove were the lug nuts,
but they actually required me to use a 4" cheater pipe on my 3/4" drive
ratchet with a lot of straining to remove (sounded like a damn gunshot
when each one finally broke free) so I certainly can't blame the HF
impact.
Pete C.
Pete C.
Er, that would be 4' as in four foot cheater pipe on the 3/4" drive
ratchet.
Pete C.
Bushy Pete
"Pete C." <aux3....@snet.net> wrote in message
news:439B8B20...@snet.net...
I have had a good ruin with a "Supercheap Auto" (Aussie company selling
cheap crap!) 1/2" rattle gun on all sorts of bolts. The surprising one was
that after half a day of hitting the gun each time I walked past it for a
burst on the seized bulldozer brake adjuster 19 mm nut that had about 50 mm
long of rusty thread inside. And I wasn't game to apply the force of six
feet of water pipe as it would probably have broken the brake band assembly
which would have meant a lot of dismantling. Although it was only a low
power, the hammer action eventually won.
Hope this helps,
Peter
ATP*
I bought a 1" HF impact wrench that seems to work fine. I have a few IR 3/4"
wrenches and the better Husky HD 1/2" impact. The Husky is adequate for most
tasks.
badaztek
no's
1.140 Ft/lbs is over excessive pressures to apply to the studs ,all you
need is 90 Ft/Lbs and when you do apply this pressure you do not use the
power of the impact wrench to apply it ,it's fine to use the impact
wrench to get the lugs down ,but to finish to tighten them you should
use either a torque bar which is basically a short extension bar made
from spring steel that has a predetermined torque rating that will cause
the bar to twist when it gets to the torque rating and keep it from
overtightening,
any auto store has these in stock and are avaible thru sears and harbour
freight
and the second thing you can use is a torgue wrench which you can use
either the click type or the old beam type ,I really recommend the click
type .
2.Using anti seize is not to be used because it can cause the lug nuts
to come loose and I have seen it happen ,the propper way to do this is
when you have the lugs and wheel off take a wire brush (you can also use
a wire wheel on a drill also)to your lugs and clean them up real good
,either use air or spray parts cleaner to remove the rust dust so you
can inspect the lugs threads (don't use any spray that will leave a
residual behind ) if there are any signs of excessive wear or you really
cant tell just goto a parts store and ask them to show you a new lug so
you can see the threads that will tell you right away if you need to
replace the lugs or if they are ok ,and to check the lugnuts just spin
them on the lugs by hand they should go on freely if they stop at all
check them to make sure there are no foreign object in them or the
threads are damaged , if damaged replace.
Now when you are ready to put the wheel back on put the lugnuts on dry
,thats how they are intended to be put on so they got a good grip and
lock down tight ,and before anyone starts flaming I have years of
experience doing automotive work and an associates degree in auto diesel
technology as well ,and you will not believe the times I have seen
people put anti seize on lugs cause thats easier to do ,one time I
actually pulled two lugnuts off a car with my barehand the other three
didn't take very much to pull them off ,the only places that antiseize
should be used is on spark plug threads and the sliders of the calipers
and not the threads just the place the caliper slides on the bolts .
Just remember antiseize is a lubricant and keeps things from sticking
,do you really want to use it on something your life depends on?
hope this has been very helpful
Gunner Asch
Always hold the socket tight against against the flats of the nut in
the direction you are wanting to spin it. This Sometimes helps.
Gunner
"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.
Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner
habbi
proper torque setting, I did what trucks manual says and set them to 140
ftlbs and I did use anti-seize, and the nuts won't come off and that is my
problem. I have seen and experienced lug nuts coming loose on aluminum
wheels and that was because they were not all evenly torqued and re-torqued
after 100 miles or so.
"badaztek" <bada...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:14050-439...@storefull-3216.bay.webtv.net...
habbi
but my gun has an additional oil inlet which you have to remove a plug to
get to, I assume this oil stays in the gun.
"Jerry Foster" <jmfoster...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:MWKmf.29605$7h7....@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
ATP*
> to come loose and I have seen it happen
It reduces the required torque but will not cause the nuts to come loose.
Obviously there are plenty of applications that have lubricants on the
threads and the nuts don't spin off. Quite a few tire mechanics use
anti-seize on truck studs and the wheels aren't flying off all over the
nation's highways. When the nut is torqued, the stud is elongated and the
resulting tension is what keeps the lugnut on, not the friction against the
threads.
Name
"habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:6xVmf.137665$Ph4.4...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
> Well in my case I did use a 1/2" drive torque wrench which clicks at the
> proper torque setting, I did what trucks manual says and set them to 140
> ftlbs and I did use anti-seize, and the nuts won't come off and that is my
> problem. I have seen and experienced lug nuts coming loose on aluminum
> wheels and that was because they were not all evenly torqued and
re-torqued
> after 100 miles or so.
>
>
Your 140 foot-pounds with anti-seize = 160 or so if it were dry. Any
lubricant will give a false reading on torque. Unless your manual stated
160 - 170 foot-pounds of torque, then you are off.
rigger
proper torque setting, I did what trucks manual says and set them to
140
ftlbs and I did use anti-seize, and the nuts won't come off and that is
my
problem. I have seen and experienced lug nuts coming loose on aluminum
wheels and that was because they were not all evenly torqued and
re-torqued
after 100 miles or so.<<
>Your 140 foot-pounds with anti-seize = 160 or so if it were dry. Any
lubricant will give a false reading on torque. Unless your manual
stated
160 - 170 foot-pounds of torque, then you are off.<
Here is a pretty good article on the subject. It appears the
anti-seize is the worst. Who knows for sure how much tension is on
these bolts? Might be as much as 210 foot-pound equivelant.
dennis
in nca
Pete C.
Er, that can't possibly be true, think ball screws which have very low
friction on the threads and can be readily driven by axial loads. If the
friction on the threads is reduced sufficiently by some lubricant, when
coupled with the vibration and rolling stresses in the wheel it is quite
likely that the lug nuts will slowly creep looser.
What would usually prevent this is the tapered or flat seat against the
wheel surface which people usually don't put the anti-seize on. The high
friction coupled with the large surface area and large radius all
combine to provide quite a bit of resistance to rotation.
Pete C.
RoyJ
are torqued to 90 ft pounds. At 140 you may not get them off.
habbi
few torque charts on the web for particular stud sizes and it is high
compared to them but that is what they call for.
"RoyJ" <spam...@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:rQXmf.2852$Tg2....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
ATP*
> ATP* wrote:
>>
>> "badaztek" <bada...@webtv.net> wrote in message
>> news:14050-439...@storefull-3216.bay.webtv.net...
>> > 2.Using anti seize is not to be used because it can cause the lug nuts
>> > to come loose and I have seen it happen
>>
>> It reduces the required torque but will not cause the nuts to come loose.
>> Obviously there are plenty of applications that have lubricants on the
>> threads and the nuts don't spin off. Quite a few tire mechanics use
>> anti-seize on truck studs and the wheels aren't flying off all over the
>> nation's highways.
>
>
>
>> When the nut is torqued, the stud is elongated and the
>> resulting tension is what keeps the lugnut on, not the friction against
>> the
>> threads.
>
> Er, that can't possibly be true, think ball screws which have very low
> friction on the threads and can be readily driven by axial loads. If the
> friction on the threads is reduced sufficiently by some lubricant, when
> coupled with the vibration and rolling stresses in the wheel it is quite
> likely that the lug nuts will slowly creep looser.
You're right. I should have said dry friction is not always necessary to
hold a fastener on. A lubricated assembly will still resist turning when
it's torqued down if there is sufficient torque. The bolt/stud is deformed
(stretched by torquing down the nut). That's not the case in a free-running
ball screw. The thread geometry is also different.
>
> What would usually prevent this is the tapered or flat seat against the
> wheel surface which people usually don't put the anti-seize on. The high
> friction coupled with the large surface area and large radius all
> combine to provide quite a bit of resistance to rotation.
>
> Pete C.
I agree the amount of anti-seize should be very minimal and only applied to
the stud. I think completely dry assembly, especially on older trucks, could
lead to stud damage from the excessively high torque required to remove the
lugnuts.
http://euler9.tripod.com/fasteners/preload.html
Joseph Gwinn
"ATP*" <waxwin...@azurepane.com> wrote:
I always use wheel bearing grease on the studs, to prevent rusting.
Grease doesn't really lubricate under such pressure when stationary.
Never had one loosen, in 40 years. Or rust. Never tried anti-seize on
wheel lugs. Nor does it seem necessary, given that ordinary grease
works.
What keeps the nut from backing off is mostly the rim bending, not just
the stud stretching. In a steel rim, the area around each stud is
hemispherical, a dome with a conical hole in the center. The lug nut
has a conical front that jams into the conical hole, and as the nut is
tightened, the dome becomes flatter as the metal deforms elastically.
It's this spring action that maintains force on the lug nut, preventing
creeping under vibration. The mechanical advantage of conical nut
driven into conical hole also helps to raise the torque needed to
override friction.
The key is to have enough spring force over a great enough range of
distances that the nut never escapes contact with the rim, preventing
rotation. Even the slightest rotation will cause loosening over time.
As for aluminum rims, I haven't looked closely at one, but there has to
be a spring in there somewhere, and the stud probably isn't long enough
to do the job by itself.
The studs holding the head to the engine block are an example of studs
long enough that elastic stretch of the studs is sufficient, but wheel
rims aren't nearly that wide or precise.
Joe Gwinn
b...@benwoodward.com
Having used Campbell Hausfeld exclusively for a couple of years, I just
bought an Ingersoll Rand 231HA. Now everything I tighten turns into
shrapnel. Still learning how suddenly important the power control knob
is.
my advice is to go here:
http://robertstool.com:8091/index.pl/ira
and spend 97.00 on one vs. 45.00 for the CH, you're getting 5 times the
gun and power.
b...@benwoodward.com
Gunner Asch
Indeed. Ive been using anti-sieze for well over 40 yrs..and in all
that time, on all manner of rolling stock..have never had a loose lug
nut that was caused by anti- sieze. And my 110lb wife of 30 yrs can
change any tire with a 4 way without flagging down a crew wagon.
ATP*
"Gunner Asch" <gun...@lightspeed.net> wrote in message
news:i1bpp15lcdora1a7m...@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:31:06 -0500, "ATP*"
> <waxwin...@azurepane.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>"badaztek" <bada...@webtv.net> wrote in message
>>news:14050-439...@storefull-3216.bay.webtv.net...
>>> 2.Using anti seize is not to be used because it can cause the lug nuts
>>> to come loose and I have seen it happen
>>
>>It reduces the required torque but will not cause the nuts to come loose.
>>Obviously there are plenty of applications that have lubricants on the
>>threads and the nuts don't spin off. Quite a few tire mechanics use
>>anti-seize on truck studs and the wheels aren't flying off all over the
>>nation's highways. When the nut is torqued, the stud is elongated and the
>>resulting tension is what keeps the lugnut on, not the friction against
>>the
>>threads.
>>
> Indeed. Ive been using anti-sieze for well over 40 yrs..and in all
> that time, on all manner of rolling stock..have never had a loose lug
> nut that was caused by anti- sieze. And my 110lb wife of 30 yrs can
> change any tire with a 4 way without flagging down a crew wagon.
>
> Gunner
>
racing for a long time. All other things being equal though, lubricant on
the studs is going to reduce the coefficient of friction and it would be
easier for the nut to loosen. However I think most vehicles are designed
with enough to spare that even with the reduced torque the nuts are not
coming off on their own. If they are marginally engineered dry might be the
only option.
Paul T.
I've got a Chevy 1/2 ton that also has a left rear wheel I haven't been able
to get off with a Ingersol-Rand 1/2" impact wrench. The right rear came off,
but only after a lot of time with full force on the impact.
The last time the wheels were torqued was at a tire shop, so they may have
hit them too hard in my case.
However, I have aluminum wheels on my truck and I'm wondering if an
interaction between the steel lug nuts and aluminum wheels has caused them
to "corrode weld" together, does your truck have aluminum wheels also?
Paul T.
b...@benwoodward.com
William Wixon
news:cA4nf.23769$L7.2...@fe12.lga...
>
>>>> 2.Using anti seize is not to be used because it can cause the lug nuts
>>>> to come loose and I have seen it happen
>>>
>>>It reduces the required torque but will not cause the nuts to come loose.
>>>Obviously there are plenty of applications that have lubricants on the
>>>threads and the nuts don't spin off. Quite a few tire mechanics use
>>>anti-seize on truck studs and the wheels aren't flying off all over the
>>>nation's highways. When the nut is torqued, the stud is elongated and the
>>>resulting tension is what keeps the lugnut on, not the friction against
>>>the
>>>threads.
>>>
>> Indeed. Ive been using anti-sieze for well over 40 yrs..and in all
>> that time, on all manner of rolling stock..have never had a loose lug
>> nut that was caused by anti- sieze. And my 110lb wife of 30 yrs can
>> change any tire with a 4 way without flagging down a crew wagon.
>>
>> Gunner
>>
> The best tire shop I know uses it, and the owner's been installing tires
> and racing for a long time. All other things being equal though, lubricant
> on the studs is going to reduce the coefficient of friction and it would
> be easier for the nut to loosen. However I think most vehicles are
> designed with enough to spare that even with the reduced torque the nuts
> are not coming off on their own. If they are marginally engineered dry
> might be the only option.
>
one time i had a problem with the brake drums on my nissan pick up sticking
SO tightly, instead of wailing on them with a sledge hammer to get them off,
i cut them in half with an angle grinder to get them off. determined to
never have that happen again i put silicone gasket sealer on the mating
surfaces, figured it would be a bad idea to put anti-seize or grease on a
brake drum. it seemed to work ok the next time i had to take the brake
drums off. (i also tapped two holes into the drum to run two bolts into to
push against the axle and act like a "remover") i'm wondering if instead of
grease or anti-seize would it be acceptable to use silicone gasket sealer on
the lug nuts/studs so it won't "lubricate" the bolts but would, hopefully,
keep the water out to prevent corrosion.
b.w.
ala...@iinet.net.oz
wrote:
>
>The last time the wheels were torqued was at a tire shop, so they may have
>hit them too hard in my case.
>
All nuts are tightened by hand with a 4 way. Also I get free
rotation and balancing for the life of the tyre, will go in after new
year for my 90,000 km change, I will certainly get over 100k from this
set. Matthew (owner) has trebled his workforce in the 10 years I
have known him because of his emphasis on customer service and
satisfaction. Had to go there today to get a new tube for the
tractor front wheel. $18 Oz, fitted, - as the rim was a bit rusty
it was sandblasted and fitted with new rim seal for that price.
Alan
in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8
VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address
Alpinekid
I have an old IR 231 which has lost its poop. I also have a 3/8"
butterfly wrench that has lost its poop.
Where can I get these rebuilt or can i order the rebuild kits and do it
myself.
Al
Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
>"Jerry Foster" <jmfoster...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
>news:MWKmf.29605$7h7....@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
>> "habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
>> news:QlKmf.137472$Ph4.4...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
Would you guys using Outhouse Express please watch how the quotes are
getting mangled? Turn off word wrap for quoted text, or turn it off
totally and wrap by hand...
>> > I have what I thought was a decent quality cambell hausfeld 1/2"
>> > gun which is rated at 380 ftlbs. All fitting are 1/4" M style
>> > and hose is 25' 3/8" ID. It will not remove my lug nuts from
>> > my chev 1/2 ton truck. I tried pressures from 90 up to 120 psi
>> > with no luck. It removed a few of them but some will not loosen
>> > at all. I am using 1/2" drive impact sockets as well. Anyway
>> > are these guns over rated, it is made in Taiwan. I noticed
>> > some ingersoll rand and even sears brands rated up to 600-700
>> > ftlbs, is this what I need. I tried a friends Chicago pneumatic
>> > and it would not spin the nuts either. Also there is an Allen
>> > set screw type plug in the side of the gun and it says oil,
>> > how do you know how much to put in? Thanks
>>
>> I have a CHEAP (HF) impact wrench and am well satisfied with it.
>> I doubt it would stand up long under day in and day out use, but...
But if you were using it all day, every day, you could spring for a
pro-level gun from Ingersoll-Rand or such. The decent cheapies will
live a long time in weekend service if properly cared for.
>> Anyhow, a friend brought me his van that someone had nailed the
>> lug nuts and he'd snapped a lug wrench trying to change a tire.
>> The impact wrench pounded on a few of them for a while before
>> they came, but they all loosened. (He then re-tightened them
>> by hand to a more reasonable level...)
>>
>> I had a lug nut on my pickup that someone probably cross-
>> threaded and then drove it home with an impact wrench. It
>> wouldn't come for ANYTHING. We put a big impact wrench on it
>> and snapped the stud (fortunately, studs are cheap and usually
>> easy to replace...).
If a gorilla at the tire store cranks them on to 100 yard-tons ;-)
with a Pro gun, they are not going to budge without a similar force
being exerted to loosen - that or a 'hot wrench' or a nutcracker.
>> As to you question about oil, two or three drops is usually
>> enough. If you put in too much, it won't stay in it for long...
>> The excess will come spraying out the tool exhaust and usually
>> up your sleeve, in your face or in some other "convenient"
>> place... Air tool oil is cheap and a properly oiled tool
>> is a heck of a lot more powerful than one that is dry...
>
>Are you talking about adding oil to the air inlet? If so that makes sense
>but my gun has an additional oil inlet which you have to remove a plug to
>get to, I assume this oil stays in the gun.
The oil that goes in the air inlet line is to lubricate the air
motor section, and is a 'total loss' system - the oil will be carried
out the exhaust. If you want to forget about adding a few drops of
oil each use you can run a mist oiler in-line, but be sure to keep the
tool hoses (with the oil residue inside) separate from the car
painting hoses where oil in the air is a Very Bad Thing.
The "OIL" plug on the front of the gun is for the reduction gear
section and probably the hammer system. It's supposed to be sealed
inside, but as we all know "Leakproof Seals Will."
For the type and weight oil in the gearbox, and how much you need to
add, Read The Friendly Manual for the maintenance instructions...
They're probably here: http://www.chpower.com/index.asp
--<< Bruce >>--
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.
habbi
where the "oil plug" is and that is it, no more mention of it anywhere.
"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHO...@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:12qrp1p6rv7sri3q6...@4ax.com...
habbi
at 425ftlbs and they came off with it agian mine was only rated at 380
ftlbs.
"Paul T." <pt_NO...@power-t.com> wrote in message
news:439ce46d$0$38576$742e...@news.sonic.net...
Bob Chilcoat
for anything. It was rated at "Max 260 Foot Pounds of torque". After a few
years, I gave it to my son and bought a used Ingersol Rand wrench that was
rated at "450 Foot Pounds". Same thing. I took the IR apart, figuring that
something must be wrong inside, but it was clean as a whistle with no
apparent wear. The only thing I can figure out is that I have too much hose
on my shop setup. Either wrench was fine for tightening lug nuts up, but
neither would loosen them. I always have to use a breaker bar. I was
really surprised that the IR wouldn't work better.
--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)
<b...@benwoodward.com> wrote in message
news:1134336540.2...@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Wayne Cook
<view...@optonlineREMOVE.net> wrote:
>I had a HF cheapo that worked for most things, but would not loosen lug nuts
>for anything. It was rated at "Max 260 Foot Pounds of torque". After a few
>years, I gave it to my son and bought a used Ingersol Rand wrench that was
>rated at "450 Foot Pounds". Same thing. I took the IR apart, figuring that
>something must be wrong inside, but it was clean as a whistle with no
>apparent wear. The only thing I can figure out is that I have too much hose
>on my shop setup. Either wrench was fine for tightening lug nuts up, but
>neither would loosen them. I always have to use a breaker bar. I was
>really surprised that the IR wouldn't work better.
One thing that people miss is the fact that many 1/2" impacts call
for a 1/2" hose. That and the standard quick coupling used is just
like adding a flow control. In the average situation with 3/8" hose
and quick couplings you'll have to run a higher pressure than the gun
is rated for just to get the rated pressure at the gun when it's
running.
Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
rigger
> One thing that people miss is the fact that many 1/2" impacts call
for a 1/2" hose. That and the standard quick coupling used is just
like adding a flow control. In the average situation with 3/8" hose
and quick couplings you'll have to run a higher pressure than the gun
is rated for just to get the rated pressure at the gun when it's
running.<
The way to check this is by the pressure drop. Put a pressure gage at
the end of the air delivery line at, or near, the gun (or screwdriver,
etc.) and observe the difference between pressure at rest and pressure
running. On a well designed and operating system you should see very
little difference. I'd tell my customers if they saw 5 pounds or
higher drop they needed to attend to either the capacity of the
compressor or the diameter of the air lines (etc.) for the machine. It
was surprising to me how many problems were "restriction" related on
machines which previously had no such problem.
dennis
in nca
Larry Jaques
<dg...@aol.com> quickly quoth:
Like the guy on a 25hp system capable of 75 CFM through a 1.5" main
line coupled to a 100' 3/8" air hose and ending with a 1/4" 90° angle
whip. Why was the whip there for use with his 3/4" impact wrench at a
truck tire shop? "It's lighter." <thud>
-
They who know the truth are not equal to those who love it. -Confucius
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Programming Services
B.B.
"habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com> wrote:
>I have what I thought was a decent quality cambell hausfeld 1/2" gun which
>is rated at 380 ftlbs. All fitting are 1/4" M style and hose is 25' 3/8" ID.
>It will not remove my lug nuts from my chev 1/2 ton truck. I tried pressures
>from 90 up to 120 psi with no luck. It removed a few of them but some will
>not loosen at all. I am using 1/2" drive impact sockets as well. Anyway are
>these guns over rated, it is made in Taiwan. I noticed some ingersoll rand
>and even sears brands rated up to 600-700 ftlbs, is this what I need. I
>tried a friends Chicago pneumatic and it would not spin the nuts either.
>Also there is an Allen set screw type plug in the side of the gun and it
>says oil, how do you know how much to put in? Thanks
One thing about impact guns is that a loose/worn socket or a worn nut
will cause a lot of bounce. You'll jiggle the socket around a whole
lot, and get it warm, but never get anywhere. A way to counteract it is
to violate the safety warnings and grab the socket by hand (I wear a
leather glove while doing it) and manually twisting it and holding it in
the direction you want to go. Then hammer on it. That way you'll get
the most force directly into the fastener when the hammer hits.
More air pressure actually won't get you that much more kick out of
an impact. It'll just deplete your air tank more quickly and be louder.
I own some Ingersoll-Rand impacts, but plan to migrate over to
Chicago Pneumatic eventually. But either brand is better than the
walmart brand if you need the extra force.
--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
Name
> Yes it has the aluminum wheels, I tried my father in laws gun which is
rated
> at 425ftlbs and they came off with it agian mine was only rated at 380
> ftlbs.
Thank you for the follow up.
habbi
734H
http://212.75.80.201/CPIndustrialSite/Article/Article_Page.asp?Id=T024351
and it seems weaker than my CH. I just checked their website and it is rated
at 576 ftlbs max. He got it used, it must be worn out.
"B.B." <DoNotSpa...@airmail.net.com.org.gov.tw.ch.ru> wrote in message
news:DoNotSpamthegoat4-4...@news-ia.supernews.net...
Ben Woodward
You should count on full power in reverse and partial power in fwd.
Specs are frequently lies.
Go with a solid name brand such as IR and don't worry.
A 5 gallon tank at 110psi should give you around 4 sec. of full power
if fed at 8cfm by a compressor (check how long you can run the gun in
seconds before the tank pressure drops below 100psi.).....then you have
to wait for the compressor to run and reach cutoff before you pull the
trigger again.
1/2" impacts eat up to 25cfm for full power.
badaztek
when putting them back on aluminum rims your best to use a speed wrench
to get the lugs on ,if the rim was machined from a solid piece of billet
they can take the beating ok ,but if it is the factory rims those are
cast aluminum rims and they don't take well to excessive poundage very
well or the force exerted by impact wrenches,over time putting them on
like that the rims will develop small spider cracks which will develop
into a catastrophic failure ,and I've seen what a vehicle looks like
after something like that happens ,you really don't want to know .
Now there was one guy that i used to know years back that had a
customer come in and when he took the one wheel off he noticed the
spider cracks ,well he went around pulled the other wheels off and all
of them were cracked ,well he called the customer and told him his rims
needed replaced well the customer refused to hear it so my buddy told
him to come and get it he wasn't working on it and that he better bring
a flat bed other wise it wasn't leaving on those rims the customer said
he was gonna call the cops then,and my buddy said go ahead I'll show him
the damage to the rims ,he said the next morning the flat bed showed up
and my buddy made him sign the paperwork that he was notified that the
rims were damaged and from there the guy left unhappy but least my buddy
did everything in his power for the guy's safety so it was all on him
then.
And also think of this too ,if there is an accident and the cause of
it is due to the way you remounted your wheels on the vehicle they do
not have to pay you one red cent and you could be looking at some
serious legal problems ,I'm just doing this to keep you all safe ,I
already been thru one incident of a wheel coming off a full size SUV
right after I passed them just literally a few seconds before just
happen to see him slam into the barrier in my rearview mirror and saw
the tire flying off into the opposite lanes a second before he hit
it's an experience I hope none of you go thru and I really don't want to
go thru again I may not be so lucky next time ,and I hope noone I care
about is involved in something like that ,so just remember your family
is out there you friends and their family is out there what can you do
to protect them as much as possible .
See you guys around and good luck
Bugs
about. AL wheels are goddawful expensive for the risk you take driving
them down the road.
Bugs
Dan_Thom...@yahoo.com
>> resulting tension is what keeps the lugnut on, not the friction against the
>> threads.
>Er, that can't possibly be true, think ball screws which have very low
>friction on the threads and can be readily driven by axial loads.
It IS true. Wheel studs aren't the same mechanism as ball screws.
I sold wheels and studs and all the associated parts for everything
from small cars up to earthmoving equipment for nine years, and those
studs, as with any tensile fastener, have some stretch to them and that
stretch is dependent on nut torque. The stretch is within the yield
limit of the metal, and overtorquing pulls them past that and into the
ultimate range where they lose their elasticity and either promptly
lose their tightness and come loose, or snap under driving stresses and
let the wheel go. When properly torqued, they maintain friction agains
the wheel and prevent the nut's loosening. The same principle is used
on many engine connecting rods, where the only means of preventing
their loosening is the stud's stretch. No locknuts or washers, no
cotter pins, no nothing. Even in the aircraft engines I work on now.
Adding Never-Seize to the threads reduces the torque
requirement by as much as 40%. Easy to overtorque the nuts in that
case. Don't use the stuff on the conical nut/wheel interface.
Stuck steel nuts on aluminum rims can be caused by galling of
the aluminum. As the nut is tightened and pressure between the steel
and aluminum comes up, the steel drags a bit of the aluminum and
creates a barbing effect that will resist nut reversal. The nuts need
to be new or have really smooth cone faces. Ideally, a hard nut would
be best. I've come across cheap nuts that are soft enough to suffer
even against aluminum, never mind steel.
Dan
habbi
water as compared to a dry stud to affect the torque reading?
<Dan_Thom...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1134661789.7...@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Dan_Thom...@yahoo.com
>water as compared to a dry stud to affect the torque reading?
I have somewhere here a small manual that lists the effects of
various lubricants on thread torques, but I can't find it this minute.
Might be at work. I don't think water was listed, as its lubricity
under that much pressure should be insignificant. I'll see if I can
find that book and post a few figures.
Dan
Dan_Thom...@yahoo.com
torque settings looks like this:
Steel, non-plated, dry: 1.00 of torque spec.
Grease with copper, graphite, and aluminum flakes: 0.85 of spec
Zinc electroplate 0.85
C5A copper-graphite anti-seize 0.80
Motor Oil SAE 20 0.80
Dri-Lock adhesive coating 0.75
Zinc anti-seize 0.75
Graphite 0.70
Grease with graphite 0.65
Moly-50 anti-seize (moly disulphide) 0.65
Dri-Lock 200 0.60
Graphite and motor oil 0.55
Oil (heavy) 0.50
Moly-Cote 0.45
Never-Seize 0.45
These are just a few from a lengthy list. Be careful with
that Never-Seize; using a standard torque will more than double the
stress in the fastener.
Dan
habbi
http://www.princessauto.com/_osn.cfm?CTRY=CAN&output=OSN&Factor=2&Starter=225&PageSearch=ALL&CurrentPage=15
It has to be a Chinese import but it is a 1/2 drive and rated 730 ft-lbs
working and 800 ft-lbs max. and is only 98 buck Canadian, that is around 85
US
"Gene Kearns" <gene.met...@myworkshop.idleplay.net> wrote in message
news:t664q1d0uu0eu7osc...@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 16:15:52 GMT, "habbi" <ha...@islandtelecom.com>
> wrote:
>
> >All I am saying is that is what the manufacturer wants. I agree, I
checked a
> >few torque charts on the web for particular stud sizes and it is high
> >compared to them but that is what they call for.
> >
>
> Likely that the manufacturer expected clean and dry threads.
> Lubricating with anti-seize assures overtorquing....
>
> ...but I suspect that you need to try a quality wrench.... Matco, Mac,
> Snap-on.... etc...
>
> or better yet, break them loose by hand...
> --
>
> Homepage
> http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/machine_shop/index.htm