0.3 IPM
Bob La Londe
about 1.5 inches.
http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=69
I have been fascinated with a table surface level vise for my mini mill to
maximize cutting depth on some projects. I have been in the process of
cutting down the jaws of a broken cross slide vise to provide the jaws on my
table vise. The first jaw I machined off one pass at a time with an end
mill. I was able to take off about .007 per pass with a 1/4" tin coated end
mill. That took about 2 days. A stupid amount of time. I came up with
this idea to rough cut the thing to within .1. Its on the third cut now and
Its been less than 30 minutes.
My thought is I can cut all four sides, Split it with a hammer and chisel,
and then finish cut it with my end mill. The area where my t-bolts will go
is in the area being cut by the abrasive wheel. so I will not need to worry
about pockets from the broken area causing uneven clamping to the table. I
figured it it works, I will just cut a slight pocket with beveled edge in
that area to be safe.
Getting in a hurry cost me my first two abrasive wheel and a mandrel, but
they abrasive wheel is holding up amazingly well. This one has cut about .5
deep for 5 - 6 inches so far and looks to be less than 1/16 worn away.
Obviously a solid straight line of cut improves the life of these wheels
dramatically. I was planning on having to go to the store to buy more
wheel. Instead if I had been a little less aggressive with my first couple
I would have new wheels still to spare.
Yes Pete. I wrote a line of code to do each cut. Geez.
Jim Wilkins
> At 0.3 IPM feed rate I am in the process of rough cutting a block down by
> about 1.5 inches.
> http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=69
> I have been fascinated with a table surface level vise for my mini mill to
http://www.miteebite.com/
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=949638&PMAKA=425-7403
jsw
Bob La Londe
news:799f306a-9245-452a...@a21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
No! Dag Nab-it!!! I looked for something just right for months. Now that
I figured out how to make one and wasted thousands worth of dollars of time
I'm going to make one! LOL.
Bob La Londe
It didn't work. At best all I could do was bend and break off the thing
ears of the cut.
HOWEVER. The cutoff wheel in the mill was a good idea. The Dremel quick
change was not quite the right tool for the job though, and I was still
going to fast. I took made a 3/8 arbor on the lathe for a 3" cut off wheel
for my air operated cut off tool and dropped the cut speed. Now I am seeing
how fast I can push it.
Mark Rand
>At 0.3 IPM feed rate I am in the process of rough cutting a block down by
>about 1.5 inches.
>
A few alternatives:-
1) Buy some slitting saws and make or by a mandrel for them :-)
2) Use a drill bit as your roughing tool, chain drill the line, leaving a few
thou of metal between the holes. You'd be shocked at how fast a twist drill
can remove metal compared with most other cutting tools.
3) Get a bandsaw :-)
Mark Rand
RTFM
Jim Wilkins
> "Jim Wilkins" <kb1...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:799f306a-9245-452a...@a21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>
> > On Jan 9, 4:59 pm, "Bob La Londe" <n...@none.com> wrote:
> >> At 0.3 IPM feed rate I am in the process of rough cutting a block down by
> >> about 1.5 inches.
> >>http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=69
> >> I have been fascinated with a table surface level vise for my mini mill
> >> to
> >> maximize cutting depth on some projects. ...
>
> >http://www.miteebite.com/
>
> > jsw
>
> No! Dag Nab-it!!! I looked for something just right for months. Now that
> I figured out how to make one and wasted thousands worth of dollars of time
> I'm going to make one! LOL.
Good for you.
I built a hydraulic-jack logsplitter which prompted a deal on a
motorized one. I made a sheet metal brake for aluminum window trim and
a neighbor who saw it said he had a 10' Tapco I could borrow.
In the bag of goodies I take to job interviews is a nice shiny
stainless steel copy of the center stem for a kitchen sink strainer,
made due to frustration with the fragile chromed plastic ones. I think
that's the most work I ever put into copying the cheapest part.
jsw
Bob La Londe
news:645ik59upmtd74huv...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 14:59:14 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com> wrote:
>
>>At 0.3 IPM feed rate I am in the process of rough cutting a block down by
>>about 1.5 inches.
>>
>
> A few alternatives:-
>
> 1) Buy some slitting saws and make or by a mandrel for them :-)
I'll have to look see what a slitting saw is. Making a mandrel is a breeze.
In fact I just made one, and I'm using it now with a 3" cut off wheel. It's
a lot slower than the 1.5 because its twice as thick.
>
> 2) Use a drill bit as your roughing tool, chain drill the line, leaving a
> few
> thou of metal between the holes. You'd be shocked at how fast a twist
> drill
> can remove metal compared with most other cutting tools.
I had not thought of that. I'll give it a try on a project when I can align
the part in that direction.
> 3) Get a bandsaw :-)
One tool at a time. I've already decided I want a bigger mill and a bigger
lathe. LOL.
Actually this mill would be ok if it had a higher horse power motor and a
little more belt to provide grip between the pulleys. I think I have pushed
1/4 HP about as hard as it can be pushed. I'm thinking 1.5 HP mill/drill
next time.
Michael Koblic
"Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com> wrote in message
news:MN92n.3064$ZB2....@newsfe13.iad...
<snip>
>> 1) Buy some slitting saws and make or by a mandrel for them :-)
>
>
> I'll have to look see what a slitting saw is. Making a mandrel is a
> breeze. In fact I just made one, and I'm using it now with a 3" cut off
> wheel. It's a lot slower than the 1.5 because its twice as thick.
>
I have done the same as you: Used an abrasive wheel in the mini-mill when I
did not have a slitting saw. I thought the result was actually better than
with the slitting saw. Then someone warned me about using abrasives on
milling/turning machines...
--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
Wild_Bill
lubricant and an arbor with a larger diameter.
If that proved to be too slow, going at the part with an angle grinder would
have removed a lot of material quickly, but with relatively low precision.
Having heavy duty parts holding accessories attached to an extruded aluminum
table could present some prolems with damaging t-slots or other issues.
--
WB
.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
"Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com> wrote in message
news:S_62n.1443$Mv3....@newsfe05.iad...
Bob La Londe
"Wild_Bill" <wb_wi...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:r1c2n.49314$IU1....@en-nntp-04.dc1.easynews.com...
> I suspect that my first attempt would have been a HSS slitting saw,
> cutting lubricant and an arbor with a larger diameter.
>
> If that proved to be too slow, going at the part with an angle grinder
> would have removed a lot of material quickly, but with relatively low
> precision.
>
> Having heavy duty parts holding accessories attached to an extruded
> aluminum table could present some prolems with damaging t-slots or other
> issues.
So you hold parts on with chewing gum and rubber bands? LOL. I've already
gotten the stock lecture about using gorilla strength to tighten screws.
That vise will be less likely to damage the table or slip because of its
large mating surface area than a smaller clamp would. Neither the spindle
nor the stepper motors are strong enough to do any damage or even move the
vise if its only just down snugged down. It can bend or break a small
cutter, but if something bigger binds up it just stops. Now the vise I am
making on the other hand... Actually its just so I can get a little more
working depth on the Z axis, and be able to clamp a piece the working length
of the X axis. After I have it fit and working I'll cut it down and make
two or three sets of jaws for it for different applications.
Wild_Bill
When a table is used as a portion of the workholding apparatus, the table
needs to withstand much of the force used to hold the workpiece.
If the table bows or twists due to the workholding forces, other problems
will likely arise.
My light duty machines have cast iron tables, and in using proper vises for
workholding, I've been able to eliminate problems associated with bowing or
twisting.
I like to keep the work as close to the machine bed as possible, for the
most rigid seup, within reason.
I hope your project works for you as well as you anticipate it will.
--
WB
.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com> wrote in message
news:t0d2n.14809$w21...@newsfe17.iad...
Bob La Londe
> Using a proper vise keeps many of the workholding forces within the vise.
> When a table is used as a portion of the workholding apparatus, the table
> needs to withstand much of the force used to hold the workpiece.
>
> If the table bows or twists due to the workholding forces, other problems
> will likely arise.
>
> My light duty machines have cast iron tables, and in using proper vises
> for workholding, I've been able to eliminate problems associated with
> bowing or twisting.
>
> I like to keep the work as close to the machine bed as possible, for the
> most rigid seup, within reason.
>
> I hope your project works for you as well as you anticipate it will.
As is often the case, this is as much a learning experience as anything.
The small vise will serve for most projects since I finally figured out how
to mount it. LOL. The larger bed vise one will most likely hand from a peg
behind the mill most of the time.
Bob La Londe
I'am taired. Along with finishing the vise I serviced my air compressor
((new pet cock, new filter, fresh oil)), redesigned the mount for some
kitchen drawer rails to fix a drawer that was falling down, went grocery
shopping for the family, and put away all the tools from yesterday's
projects.
The vise doesn't work the way I had hoped. Oh, it works and the mechanics
are fine. Its where it clamps to the table. I have to put more force on
the t-bolts than I would like to keep it from sliding when I clamp a work
piece in it firmly. That's ok. I can still use it for those odd ball work
pieces by clamping some stops behind it on each end. It just won't get used
very often. I also have an idea to prevent the problem and create a self
squaring assembly born of the problems discovered in the creation of this
one. I'll probably make a vise from scratch for the new idea though. Much
easier than adapting this one again.
Jim Wilkins
> ...
> The vise doesn't work the way I had hoped. Oh, it works and the mechanics
> are fine. Its where it clamps to the table. I have to put more force on
> the t-bolts than I would like to keep it from sliding when I clamp a work
> piece in it firmly.
You could make a long strap that fits in the tee slot with a row of
tapped holes for the vise blocks. The strap would hold the blocks
together and distribute the stress on the slots.
Clamping kits like this hold well but they get in the way and don't
help you relocate the work if you have to remove it.
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Accessories/Holding/holding.htm#clamping_kit
I use some lightweight device like the Enco vise blocks to position
the work and keep it in place while I move the clamp kit parts around
to stay out of the tool path.
For long narrow pieces I leave the milling vise on to grab the middle
and hold the ends with 1-2-3 blocks and the clamp kit. So far the work
hasn't slid down in the vise jaws where it's unsupported below,
probably because the cutting force is all side and lengthwise.
I should make a pair of blocks the same height as the base of the
vise. So far I have only one ragged piece of scrap cut to the height
of the vise base and use it to support awkward oversized parts, such
as a 4' length of 2" square tubing.
jsw
Glenn Lyford
> are fine. Its where it clamps to the table. I have to put more force on
> the t-bolts than I would like to keep it from sliding when I clamp a work
> piece in it firmly.
Have tried using a sheet of paper (plain printer paper or the like)
between the vise and table? I've heard of people using this to keep
lathe toolposts and the like from rotating, it might work here, too.
--Glenn Lyford
Brian Lawson
wrote:
>The table vise is finished. I'll post a picture tomorrow.
Hey Bob,
Do a Google on "MITEE-BITE". Should work.
Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
Bob La Londe
> On Jan 11, 12:03 am, "Bob La Londe" <nos...@nospam.no> wrote:
>> ...
>> The vise doesn't work the way I had hoped. Oh, it works and the mechanics
>> are fine. Its where it clamps to the table. I have to put more force on
>> the t-bolts than I would like to keep it from sliding when I clamp a work
>> piece in it firmly.
>
> You could make a long strap that fits in the tee slot with a row of
> tapped holes for the vise blocks. The strap would hold the blocks
> together and distribute the stress on the slots.
Almost exactly what I was thinking. This outfit sell the t-nut material
upto 5.5 inches long.
http://www.a2zcorp.us/store/ProductDetail.asp?Cguid={068CC874-CFA7-49C5-A09E-1D53122F83BF}&ProductID=5807
I'ld like to have pieces about 13 inches long so I will have to make them.
> Clamping kits like this hold well but they get in the way and don't
> help you relocate the work if you have to remove it.
> http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Accessories/Holding/holding.htm#clamping_kit
I like the stepped clamps. Chunk a piece on the mill and clamp it wherever
it lands. LOL.
> I use some lightweight device like the Enco vise blocks to position
> the work and keep it in place while I move the clamp kit parts around
> to stay out of the tool path.
>
> For long narrow pieces I leave the milling vise on to grab the middle
> and hold the ends with 1-2-3 blocks and the clamp kit. So far the work
> hasn't slid down in the vise jaws where it's unsupported below,
> probably because the cutting force is all side and lengthwise.
>
> I should make a pair of blocks the same height as the base of the
> vise. So far I have only one ragged piece of scrap cut to the height
> of the vise base and use it to support awkward oversized parts, such
> as a 4' length of 2" square tubing.
Some good stuff there. Now if I can just remember it when I need it. LOL.