OT: Rebar or Galvanized pipe for stairs

ShakasCaregiver

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Jan 26, 2003, 10:21:53 PM1/26/03

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Putting in some rail road ties for stairs. Would the recommendation be for
rebar or galvanized pipe to drive thru the ties into the ground to hold them
in place. Suggestions? Thanks Scott

j...@noname.com

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Jan 26, 2003, 10:26:07 PM1/26/03

to ShakasCaregiver

rebars will probably last as long as the rail road ties... pipes will
probably rust our in no time due to the thin walls of the pipe....

Ken Davey

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Jan 27, 2003, 2:24:06 AM1/27/03

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"ShakasCaregiver" <shakasc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030126222153...@mb-fc.aol.com...

I have used re-bar for this with unqualified success - and one application
involved salt water. No problems to date - ten years and counting.I would
suggest no less than 3/8 re-bar with a generous two feet or more (depends on
your soil) of penetration.. Test the size of hole you will be drilling -
depending on several factors the hole (seems big enough) will act undersized
and be a PITA to drive the bar through. Drill on an angle to 'key' the tie
into the ground (think 'dove tail'). If you are really worried about
corrosion and want the bar to last for a *very* long time try to find epoxy
coated re-bar.

Hope this helps
Regards.
Ken.

Brian Lawson

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Jan 27, 2003, 4:49:26 PM1/27/03

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Hey Scott,

Rebar is cheaper, and in "pipe" diameters is stronger. Just harder to
cut, although it may be available from a landscape supply company in
24" lengths.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Windsor, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On 27 Jan 2003 03:21:53 GMT, shakasc...@aol.com (ShakasCaregiver)
wrote:

Leigh Knudson

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Jan 27, 2003, 10:00:52 PM1/27/03

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>
> Rebar is cheaper, and in "pipe" diameters is stronger. Just harder to
> cut, although it may be available from a landscape supply company in
> 24" lengths.
>

>

> > Putting in some rail road ties for stairs. Would the recommendation be for
> >rebar or galvanized pipe to drive thru the ties into the ground to hold them
> >in place. Suggestions? Thanks Scott

Neither offer much lateral load bearing cababilty. The pipe would
obviously be somwhat better but if you have soil like our adobe
neither will work. Clay is not only slippery but has no load bearing
ability at all. I can drive a two inch pipe two feet into wet adobe
and when pushed on it will head for a horizontal position. Flat steel
bar might be more suitable. Actually old bed frame rails might be just
the ticket here. Scrap yards oten have used flat bar and angle that
can be bought real cheap and it cuts fine with a torch. If you don't
have a torch and you are into metal working it is time to buy one.
Leigh@MarMachine

JohnM

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Jan 28, 2003, 2:42:49 PM1/28/03

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ShakasCaregiver wrote in message
<20030126222153...@mb-fc.aol.com>...

I would suggest rerod instead of pipe, I torch cut and pointed a few
hundred pieces for a guy some years back for just this application and
it worked well. Drilling the holes in the ties will be an interesting
experience, the things are mighty tough. As Leigh points out, the
ground that you're going to drive these into is to be considered-
that'll affect how long of pieces you'll need.

It was a hoot watching this guy try to drive these rerod, he had some
help that was good at driving them, three of them whacking away and
doing good, but he was determined to "help" them and he wasn't too
good with a maul in the first place (looked like someone's sister,
humped over and tapping when it was his turn) and he just didn't have
any rythym at all- couldn't quite tell when it was his turn to hit,
looked like Steve Martin trying to clap with his family in "The
Jerk":-D

John