bending aluminum frames for window screens
db...@sprynet.com
put some Solar Screens on them but cannot find a source for the aluminum
frams with arched windows that are pre bendt into an arch. i was quoted
a price from one shop, well not really a quote, he told me that he has
to pay $70 for just the arch as he does not have a machine for bending
the frame. the aluminum frames are .020 aluminum and am willing to
ruin a few to try it, does anyone know if i can take a piece of
plywood, say 2 feet by 3 feet with some rollers on it like maybe
one on bottom and two on top for rollers(made out of metal and just push
then frames of aluminum through them a few times and bend it into an
arch with enough passes? or can someone think of another way of doing
it without paying for the $70 prebendt rails? the rails cost about
$3 at home depot and the meaterials for the whole thing will be about
$100.00 as i plan on doing it all myself, but with the $70 each for the
bendt rails it will be over $400 total, i dont think this job is
worth $300 labor..... any suggestions on bending the rails?????
i tried to bend one by hand to see how far it would bend, it made some
nasty creases as the rails are hollow with a cavity infront of it for
the spline to go into...
any help will be appreciated....
thanks in advance for a answer...
Nick Hull
You might try making a series of saw cuts on the inside of the curve as
is done sometimes to bend wood. As long as the gap closes on the inside
you will not lose too much strength since the screens will help hold it
all together.
--
Committees of Correspondence Web page:
http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/
- free men own guns, slaves don't
ted.f...@virgin.net
channel to a radius for a pickup roof framing using a plywood former
and clamps. All done cold.
you may need to preheat the section to soften it as it might just be
hard drawn = diffult to bend evenly in an arc.. you might get away with
bending it around a cut ply former with heat being applied as you bend
on the outside. Clamp the ali to the side of the arc to begin with so
you finish up with an "U" shaped piece. Can you make the sides and top
out of one piece? Hope this helps,
Ted Fater Dorset UK
Wild Bill
structural strength (and then an L attached to the box to provide the
screen spline channel), you will probably need to fabricate a fairly
complex bending fixture.
Maybe even more complex for an S-shaped aluminum extrusion.
When examining bent tubing (square or round), you'll see that the inside
wall of the arc is often modified by a controlled distortion which
allows two sides to follow the same arc. The shape of the bending die
prevents unwanted distortion, kinks or collapse of the tubing walls as
the bending force progresses along the material. Some dies are single
shapes, others are a halved shape made up of an inner and outer die.
The following is speculation, based upon an understanding of some manual
tubing benders.
If you can fabricate a traveling die to support the shape of the frame
channel as the bending is done, you should be able to attach it to a
pivoting lever, so that it can be adjusted to the bending radius of a
form (possibly an arc cut at the end of a plywood sheet).
The lever would attach at the center of the radius, and the die would be
adjusted to follow the arc edge of the plywood sheet.
I'm guessing that the die would need at least one rotating, shaped
forming roller.. but may require several of them to control (and/or
restrain) the distortion and prevent twisting. These could possibly be
ball bearing assemblies mounted on a holder.
Quite a bit of experimentation might be necessary. The plywood arc size
will probably need to be cut smaller than the desired finished frame
size, because the channel will probably spring outward slightly after
the bend is accomplished. The die roller adjustments will probably
affect the finished shape of the channels.
Maybe the window accessory shop owner would assist/collaborate with you
on your project, as a bender would be more worthwhile to him.
If you are adding the solar screens where you have relatively high tech
double-glazed windows installed, you might encounter problems. If heat
is reflected back into the glazing, the seals could be damaged, and you
might void the manufacturer's warranty.
Bill
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Bob May
conform to your frame material for the faces. Two of them are for the
outside and one for the inside of the frame stock. After you have that
done, grab some metal (prefered) and make a holder for the two outside
rollers top and bottom (so they don't flex rotationally and then do a
slotted support for the inside roller so that you can gradually push the
third inside roller into the stock. Use roller bearings on all of the
shafts so you don't have a lot of friction. Also attach a crank to one of
the outside roller shaft so you can turn that roller by hand. Use a good
heavy extrafine thread (not too fine tho as you will just turn a lot for
anything to happen) to drive that third roller and start rolling the pieces
until you get the right radius. You want the three rollers to be fairly
close together in order to make the bend at the location of the inside
roller. Longer distances tend to make for flexing which doesn't do the
bends. If the two outer rollers are almost touching, that's problably the
best distance.
To operate, take a piece of the frame material and start it into the
assembly and a single pass should produce the desired radius you want. If
it doesn't, adjust the inside roller and try again. Please note that the
radius will be a little different when you start with a straight piece as
opposed to a already bent piece. Also that the ends won't be properly bent
but that isn't going to be too much of a problem.
--
Bob May
Remember that computers do exactly what you tell them to do, not what you
think you told them to do.
Bob May
db...@sprynet.com
great way of doing it...
db...@sprynet.com
pp
and wrapping it around the shape you want. This normally prevents those
ugly creases that always ruin your day.
Paul P
Tim
> and wrapping it around the shape you want. This normally prevents those
> ugly creases that always ruin your day.
What if it's an inside bend where umm, let me example this one...
Take a C channel and bend it so the center is on the open side...
Pack it with sand as suggested and bend... It'll compress, and go
out. But if it's an outside bend, it could do that too anyway.
Tim
--
"Ow! Those gears down there really hurt!"
- Barney Gumble
ma...@mdestrin.com
Clare Snyder
of the lip for the moveabler roller and some way to keep the profile
from swelling when it is bent - basically you need to clamp the frame
to maintain the maximum thickness. Would help too if you were running
annealed material, not material work-hardened by the initial
manufacturing process. If using "mill finish" you could anneal it -
but not using pre-finished.
There's a reason the darn things are $70 a bend. With your $100 bodged
together roller bender your success rate MIGHT be 20% - one in 5
successfull. Doesn't take long to make the ready-bent ones look like a
bargoon.
James Waldby
> On Mon, 27 May 2019 09:50:02 -0700 (PDT), ma...@mdestrin.com wrote:
>>> What about filling the rails with fine dry sand packing it reasonably
>>> tight and wrapping it around the shape you want. This normally
>>> prevents those ugly creases that always ruin your day.
>>> > i have several arch windows in the front of my house. i would like
>>> > to put some Solar Screens on them but cannot find a source for the
>>> > aluminum frams with arched windows that are pre bendt into an arch.
>>> > i was quoted a price from one shop, well not really a quote, he told
>>> > me that he has to pay $70 for just the arch as he does not have a
>>> > machine for bending the frame. the aluminum frames are .020
>>> > aluminum and am willing to ruin a few to try it, does anyone know if
>>> > i can take a piece of plywood, say 2 feet by 3 feet with some
>>> > rollers on it like maybe one on bottom and two on top for
>>> > rollers(made out of metal and just push then frames of aluminum
>>> > through them a few times and bend it into an arch with enough
>>> > passes? or can someone think of another way of doing it without
>>> > paying for the $70 prebendt rails? the rails cost about $3 at home
>>> > depot and the meaterials for the whole thing will be about $100.00
>>> > as i plan on doing it all myself, but with the $70 each for the
>>> > bendt rails it will be over $400 total, i dont think this job is
>>> > worth $300 labor..... any suggestions on bending the rails?????
>>> > i tried to bend one by hand to see how far it would bend, it made
>>> > some nasty creases as the rails are hollow with a cavity infront of
>>> > it for the spline to go into...
>>hold the shape while bending?
> To do it with a roller you will need a roller formed to the profile
> of the lip for the moveabler roller and some way to keep the profile
> from swelling when it is bent - basically you need to clamp the frame to
> maintain the maximum thickness. Would help too if you were running
> annealed material, not material work-hardened by the initial
> manufacturing process. If using "mill finish" you could anneal it - but
> not using pre-finished.
fairly soft rather than work-hardened. Annealing might not make
any difference. That aside, the bend probably is in the plane of
the widest faces of the rails. Without the profile shape holding
that you mention, the success rate might be closer to 0% than 20% :)
> There's a reason the darn things are $70 a bend. With your $100 bodged
> together roller bender your success rate MIGHT be 20% - one in 5
> bargoon.
--
jiw
Clare Snyder
business. They are virtually ALL roll formed from sheet stock with a
crimped seam. Work hardened pretty good. NOT easy to bend without
kinking.