Chainsaw questions
Steve B
the thread drift too much. Maybe youse guys can help me.
I have a Husky 345 chainsaw. I blew it all out, blew out the air cleaner,
and took off the top of the carb, removed needle valve, blew that out, and
reassembled.
It does the same thing, described:
It starts okay. Then it dies just like it has the OFF switch thrown.
When it does choose to run, it won't accelerate. In order for it to
accelerate, I have to pull the choke out half way, but that is right where
my fingers go, so I inevitably push it back in, and it dies.
When consulting the Husky site, it says that a possible fix may be to turn
the L jet anticlockwise (those durn ferriners don't understand
counterclockwise or driving on the correct side of the road) and describes
that this can cause it not to accelerate properly, which is the case.
Anyway, I just returned from an hour of high rpm sound inside a container,
and didn't want to go back out there to try that one. Will try that
tomorrow.
Anyone familiar with these beasts that can give me a heads up? Will go
tomorrow and turn the L jet "anticlockwise" and see if that fixes it, but I
had it all over the place today, and it would still die out.
I may have to remove, clean, and replace the carb in case there is a little
piece of gook in there. Before that, I will drain, put new gas (again) run,
recheck, etc, etc, etc.
TIA
Steve
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:crlh37-...@news.infowest.com:
> Will go
> tomorrow and turn the L jet "anticlockwise" and see if that fixes it,
> but I had it all over the place today, and it would still die out.
>
Try turning the jet knob widdershins, instead of "anti-clockwise".
<G>
LLoyd
RogerN
"Steve B" <desert...@fishmail.net> wrote in message
news:crlh37-...@news.infowest.com...
Maybe a fuel line is leaking air in or the carb could need disassembled and
cleaned out. I had problems with my Stihl weed eater / brush cutter, the
carb was full of crud from leaving gasoline in too long.
RogerN
Bill Janssen
that the additives in the gas
partially dissolved the fuel line inside the tank. The fuel line turned
to goo and it would not let gas through.
I replace the fuel line and it was OK until the gaskets turned to jelly
Bill K7NOM
RoyJ
(counterclockwise) the low speed needle is the usual solution. If that
doesn't fix it, try a liberal (wrong term for your usual flogging) dose
of Seafoam or similar. Someone else mentioned the potential of a semi
dissolved gas line, entirely possible.
If you can't get it to run right, tear down the carb, soak it in the
strongest solvent you can find (lacquer thinner is the minimum, MEK has
been used before) with a carb kit.
Steve B
"RogerN" <re...@midwest.net> wrote in message
news:mrSdnSCtsIbjovvW...@earthlink.com...
Quite possibly the problem.
Greg O
> little piece of gook in there. Before that, I will drain, put new gas
> (again) run, recheck, etc, etc, etc.
>
> TIA
>
> Steve
>
out is richer, in, leaner. If the sucker just dies it is most likely lean.
Rich they usually run, but miss and run rough.
Greg O
Jim Wilkins
[Husky 345?]
New spark plug.
Fish out the gas tank filter and blow it out.
Clean or replace the air filter. It is permitted to use soap and
water.
"Turn the low speed needle L clockwise until the stop"
If your watch is digital, "Righty tighty", or stand facing south until
you see which way the sun moves.
"If the engine has bad acceleration or erratic idling, turn the L
needle counter-clockwise until good idling and acceleration" [sic]
Watch-guys, it's the direction the sun -doesn't- move.
Unlike the Good Old Days the manual doesn't give an initial setting of
"turn in carefully until it stops, then back out X turns".
jsw
Martin H. Eastburn
Imagine the fuel pump pumping gas onto a hot engine while you drive
down the highway looking for an explosion.
And it doesn't get burned. It creates a pool at the bottom of lakes.
A large bubble was found at the bottom of Lake Tahoe. There was a plan
on pumping it out. It also causes cancer....
Many thanks to the eco nuts that started that in our gas and had stock
in the company in Canada that made it.
Martin
Pete Snell
vent is clear before proceeding....
Pete
--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College
Kingston, Ontario,
Canada
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Bob Engelhardt
2 cycle engines are fussy - to get the efficiency that is their essence
they run much much closer to the edge than 4 cycle. Which means that it
doesn't take much to ruin their performance.
-dirty or stale gas (gas does change with time & 2 cycles can be picky
about it)
-cracked or clogged fuel lines. Heat can harden them. There is often a
pick up line inside the tank that is easily overlooked
-dirty air cleaner
-the carb: age & fuel additives can wreak havoc. Potential problems: a
gasket with flaps that act as checks valves, a diaphragm for fuel
metering, a needle valve as part of that metering. Any of these can
degrade & cause problems (I had an engine whose needle valve had the
teeny-tiniest wear ring that caused it to stick & not allow enough fuel in).
Carb rebuild kits are readily available for less than $10, especially
for Walbro carbs. This site has a model-no, kit-no chart:
http://www.learnsmallenginerepair.com/walbro1_s.htm
kits here too, & individual parts:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/ChainsawCarbWal.html/mv_session_id=TRUm8ebL
Walbro carb manuals:
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/
"Diaphragm Carburetors" has more than you ever wanted to know (8MB).
HTH,
Bob
Steve B
"Pete Snell" <sne...@rmc.ca> wrote in message
news:4b66e5a2$1...@win9.rmc.ca...
> Lotsa good suggestions here, but I would check to make sure the tank vent
> is clear before proceeding....
>
> Pete
Pete, that was my thought, too. It dies with just those symptoms. Same as
when I turn the vent off on my ATV tank. Where is that located? I can turn
the saw in any position, and it does not leak out any gas at all.
Steve
Bob Engelhardt
> ...I had an engine whose needle valve had the
BTW - this had the same symptom as you do: to get enough fuel I had to
run with the choke partially closed.
Also:
- the primer bulb can crack & allow air in.
If the fuel line needs to be replaced, your local True Value is unlikely
to have it. I got it a hobby shop. McM-C has gas-rated PVC & Tygon.
Be sure that the minimum bend radius allows the line to be routed
without kinking.
Bob
Pete Snell
out of the body, that is open on one end, and the other end (in the
tank) would have a one way valve (probably a 'duckbill' type) on it.
Pete
--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College
Kingston, Ontario,
Canada
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Being shot out of a cannon is always better than being
squeezed through a tube.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005) Kingdom of Fear
Pete Snell
here. <http://www.jackssmallengines.com/husq_qref2c.cfm> It would have
to be covered in something to be a problem if that's the case.
Pete
Pete Snell wrote:
> Should be in the cap, but there might be a funny 'fuel' line coming
> out of the body, that is open on one end, and the other end (in the
> tank) would have a one way valve (probably a 'duckbill' type) on it.
>
> Pete
>
> Steve B wrote:
>> "Pete Snell" <sne...@rmc.ca> wrote in message
>> news:4b66e5a2$1...@win9.rmc.ca...
>>> Lotsa good suggestions here, but I would check to make sure the tank
>>> vent is clear before proceeding....
>>>
>>> Pete
>>
>> Pete, that was my thought, too. It dies with just those symptoms.
>> Same as when I turn the vent off on my ATV tank. Where is that
>> located? I can turn the saw in any position, and it does not leak out
>> any gas at all.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>
>
--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College
Kingston, Ontario,
Canada
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Wes
>I wrote about this to another NG, but they are either clueless or following
>the thread drift too much. Maybe youse guys can help me.
>
>I have a Husky 345 chainsaw. I blew it all out, blew out the air cleaner,
>and took off the top of the carb, removed needle valve, blew that out, and
>reassembled.
>
>It does the same thing, described:
>
>It starts okay. Then it dies just like it has the OFF switch thrown.
Sounds like a fuel issue. Something plugged or leaky fuel line. Not sure now it pumps
gas, if it is like a two stroke snowmobile, you also have a fuel pump run by crank case
pressure diferential.
I have the same model bought 5/26/04 from Northwestern Powertools. Mine was 252.00
delivered. Always a b*tch to start the first time. Not so bad afterwards.
>
>When it does choose to run, it won't accelerate. In order for it to
>accelerate, I have to pull the choke out half way, but that is right where
>my fingers go, so I inevitably push it back in, and it dies.
Sure sounds like fuel. Do you use your saw often? I tend to fire mine up a couple times
a year when something falls down. I get away with it since it if fairly cool most of the
year where I live. I think it is a bit warmer where you live. I'm thinking your gas/oil
degrades faster than my chainsaws fuel supply.
>
>When consulting the Husky site, it says that a possible fix may be to turn
>the L jet anticlockwise (those durn ferriners don't understand
>counterclockwise or driving on the correct side of the road) and describes
>that this can cause it not to accelerate properly, which is the case.
>
>Anyway, I just returned from an hour of high rpm sound inside a container,
>and didn't want to go back out there to try that one. Will try that
>tomorrow.
>
>Anyone familiar with these beasts that can give me a heads up? Will go
>tomorrow and turn the L jet "anticlockwise" and see if that fixes it, but I
>had it all over the place today, and it would still die out.
>
>I may have to remove, clean, and replace the carb in case there is a little
>piece of gook in there. Before that, I will drain, put new gas (again) run,
>recheck, etc, etc, etc.
I'd pull the carb off, clean in carb cleaner, CAREFULLY blow out passages with compressed
air and try again. The reason I say CAREFULLY on blowing out is my lawnmower wasn't
working and I gave the carb too much air while cleaning it forcing out a soft plug that
flew far away. The replacement carb from Sears doesn't have screw jets :( Damn that EPA!
Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Steve B
> Looks like it might be a 'felt' plug in the chassis body. See panel J
> here. <http://www.jackssmallengines.com/husq_qref2c.cfm> It would have to
> be covered in something to be a problem if that's the case.
>
> Pete
Got the site, but can't find panel J.
I did go get some Stabil and new gas today, and will mix some tomorrow.
Will also dig around and look at the tank, etc, more closely today. I did
find the angle indicator today on the teeth, and I was very close with what
I already did. I need to saw some more wood soon, so need it to run good as
well as cut good.
Steve
Larry Jaques
<sne...@rmc.ca> scrawled the following:
>Lotsa good suggestions here, but I would check to make sure the tank
>vent is clear before proceeding....
I had to replace my neighbor's brand new Husky 325 (235?) chainsaw gas
tank cap due to a bad vent 3 years ago.
--
Imagination is the beginning of creation. You imagine what you desire,
you will what you imagine and at last you create what you will.
-- George Bernard Shaw
Pete Snell
search on your saw you can find parts diagrams etc. Try
<http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/2001/I01000/I0101108.pdf>
It should work gooder. ;-)
Pete
--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College
Kingston, Ontario,
Canada
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
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the point is to discover them.
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Wayne Cook
>"Steve B" <desert...@fishmail.net> wrote:
>
>>I wrote about this to another NG, but they are either clueless or following
>>the thread drift too much. Maybe youse guys can help me.
>>
>>I have a Husky 345 chainsaw. I blew it all out, blew out the air cleaner,
>>and took off the top of the carb, removed needle valve, blew that out, and
>>reassembled.
>>
>>It does the same thing, described:
>>
>>It starts okay. Then it dies just like it has the OFF switch thrown.
>
>Sounds like a fuel issue. Something plugged or leaky fuel line. Not sure now it pumps
>gas, if it is like a two stroke snowmobile, you also have a fuel pump run by crank case
>pressure diferential.
>
It's built into the carb. On the opposite side from the diaphragm
and needle valve. Along with a screen that tends to get clogged.
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Leon Fisk
<sne...@rmc.ca> wrote:
<snip>
>Lotsa good suggestions here, but I would check to make sure the tank
>vent is clear before proceeding....
>
>Pete
Didn't see it suggested yet, make sure the exhaust is clear.
Mud Dauber (sp) wasps like to build their nests in the
exhaust port here. Took me quite awhile to figure that one
out even though the symptom was obvious :)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
Pete Snell
>
> Didn't see it suggested yet, make sure the exhaust is clear.
> Mud Dauber (sp) wasps like to build their nests in the
> exhaust port here. Took me quite awhile to figure that one
> out even though the symptom was obvious :)
>
+1 on that! Good catch Leon, I've run into that very thing myself.
Pete
--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College
Kingston, Ontario,
Canada
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
All those who believe in psychokinesis raise my hand.
Steve B
"Leon Fisk" <lf...@no.spam.iserv.net> wrote in message
news:2dijm5hjjivgul5ns...@4ax.com...
Had the top cover off, and that's not it. Did get some fresh gas and
Stabil, and will mix some very new gas tomorrow, and flush the old out and
try with the new. I went to a Cowboy Super Market today and talked with the
guys. Bought an EZLap diamond burr for sharpening. They said old gas can
cause the symptoms I am describing.
Ah, life ..........
Steve
Joe
Just curious - why are you putting Stabil in there now? Do you plan on
putting it up for a while after the job? I used to put stabilizer in
the tank when I thought I'd not use it for more than 4 months, but I'd
leave it out if I was gonna be doing a lot of cutting soon. I prefer
not to use any more additives than I have to, but lately I've taken it
to the extreme by not putting stabilizer in at all (too lazy, I
guess). Surprisingly, the saw runs fine, even after 6+ months of
storage; I usually store it with very little gas in the tank, and I
fill it up with fresh mix before I use it.
As soon as this pneumonia clears up I've got a few oaks and a big
poplar to get rid of, so now look out, I hope the saw works OK again.
It's a big, 35 YO ProMac I bought off a logger 30 years ago. Rarely
even bogs down (heavy, though). It has a 20" bar, BTW, and most of the
time I wish I had an 18" on there, but sometimes the extra length is
needed.
One caution with a long bar: if you are cutting in the woods (lots of
other stuff around) be really careful of where that extra length is
pointed; kickbacks can happen when you forgot about the odd branch
lying under the piece you're cutting.
Joe
Steve B
"Joe" <see_re...@sig.lin> wrote
> Just curious - why are you putting Stabil in there now? Do you plan on
> putting it up for a while after the job?
I have decided to put Stabil in all my gas. I buy 5-10 gallons at a time to
keep at the ranch. Sometimes it sits for a while before use, and it gets
hot here. So, if I put it in from the get go, at least I have something in
there that is helping the gas to stay decent until use. Sometimes the
chainsaw, as well as ATVs, log splitter, lawn mower, and trimmer do not get
run for quite a while.
Steve
Gerald Miller
That's why I'm happy with a 12" bar. Big enough for anything in the
neighbour hood and definitely big enough for anything I will volunteer
to handle.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Gerald Miller
I ran all three lawn mowers and three weed whackers dry the day I
fired up the snow blower (second pull after sitting dry since April).
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada