Question: Metal Bending
Searcher7
lengthwise in 24-3/8" long, 16(or possibly 14) gauge steel.
I'll also need something that will allow me to turn .005 to .020"
thick sheet metal into "U" channels with 1/4" sides.
Assuming that I'll need two different brakes for these two projects,
I'd appreciate any advice on the approximate size and cost of the
hardware I should be looking into.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Jon Elson
> I am looking into getting a metal brake for making 90 degree bends
> lengthwise in 24-3/8" long, 16(or possibly 14) gauge steel.
>
> I'll also need something that will allow me to turn .005 to .020"
> thick sheet metal into "U" channels with 1/4" sides.
>
> Assuming that I'll need two different brakes for these two projects,
> I'd appreciate any advice on the approximate size and cost of the
> hardware I should be looking into.
sorts of brakes, but the most flexible are called
finger brakes. Some only allow the side flages to
stick up so far before the brake beam hits them.
Others have a lot of clearance.
Newer models are in the press brake form, and have
even more clearance than most finger brakes. But,
these often can't go past 90 degrees with the
standard die sets.
Jon
DoN. Nichols
> Searcher7 wrote:
>> I am looking into getting a metal brake for making 90 degree bends
>> lengthwise in 24-3/8" long, 16(or possibly 14) gauge steel.
16 gauge is petty standard for serious brakes. That is what my
24" DiAcro has as its maximum. The Chinese imports (Harbor Freight and
the like) are probably limited to 18 gauge instead. For 14 gauge and
thicker, you are talking about *seriously* heavy equipment. :-) It was a
major task getting my 16 gauge 24" DiAcro up onto a workbench. Two
people siding it up a board ramp which was bowing significantly.
>> I'll also need something that will allow me to turn .005 to .020"
>> thick sheet metal into "U" channels with 1/4" sides.
And what *width* of 'U'?
>> Assuming that I'll need two different brakes for these two projects,
>> I'd appreciate any advice on the approximate size and cost of the
>> hardware I should be looking into.
> Why would you need two brakes? There are all
> sorts of brakes, but the most flexible are called
> finger brakes. Some only allow the side flages to
> stick up so far before the brake beam hits them.
> Others have a lot of clearance.
I don't think that a finger (or pan) brake would be very easy to
produce a U with 1/4" sides -- depending on just how *wide* it is. If
it is say an inch wide -- fine. When I hear 'U', I think of something
not as wide as it is tall (like the letter 'U' on my screen. :-)
If it is as wide as the side height (1/4") then that would not
work well at all -- unless he makes custom fingers for the brake.
> Newer models are in the press brake form, and have
> even more clearance than most finger brakes. But,
> these often can't go past 90 degrees with the
> standard die sets.
Again -- custom die set for the 'U'. Perhaps with a guide
included for the width of the stock prior to bending, so it remains
centered as the punch enters the die.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
JR North
channel, think outside the box. This needs to be rolled, not pressed.
A bead roller will work for that material; you will need to modify the
female die to allow the sides of the channel to form.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
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If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
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Bob Engelhardt
> I am looking into getting a metal brake for making 90 degree bends
> lengthwise in 24-3/8" long, 16(or possibly 14) gauge steel.
>
That bend will require serious force. A leaf brake (is that what
they're called?) would be massive & expensive. A press brake would be
more reasonable. Even so, it would have to be big. I can make a 21"
bend in 14 ga in my 20T press, but only with a cheater. I made mine
from a 20T HF hydraulic press & it doesn't have a 24-3/8 opening. The
HF 50T has the width & the muscle, but it's $700 vs $200 for the 20T
> I'll also need something that will allow me to turn .005 to .020"
> thick sheet metal into "U" channels with 1/4" sides.
How long is the bend & how wide is the U? For a narrow U, clearance can
be a problem with the 2nd bend. But it could be done with a dedicated
die in a press brake.
> Assuming that I'll need two different brakes for these two projects,
...
Maybe not, it depends.
Bob
Searcher7
> (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
> --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Thanks everyone.
Ok, 14 gauge is out. :-)
But I definitely need to bend 16 gauge, which I assume is a tiny bit
under 1/16th of an inch.(But correct me if I'm wrong).
Even if I have to use a torch to heat the metal up first, I don't
think that would be a problem.
Depending on the size of the brake I have the option of storing it in
the basement, so I don't think that weight would itself would be an
issue.
The 24-3/8" length comes from a piece I have to duplicate. At least a
few times.
As for the "U", each of the three walls will need to be the same 1/4".
If anyone knows of any links that deal with specific equipment that
may meet my needs or even a site with building instructions I'd
appreciate it.
Thanks again.
dan
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:13:07 -0700 (PDT):
>Thanks everyone.
>
>Ok, 14 gauge is out. :-)
>
>But I definitely need to bend 16 gauge, which I assume is a tiny bit
>under 1/16th of an inch.(But correct me if I'm wrong).
>
>Even if I have to use a torch to heat the metal up first, I don't
>think that would be a problem.
>
>Depending on the size of the brake I have the option of storing it in
>the basement, so I don't think that weight would itself would be an
>issue.
>
>The 24-3/8" length comes from a piece I have to duplicate. At least a
>few times.
>
>As for the "U", each of the three walls will need to be the same 1/4".
>
>If anyone knows of any links that deal with specific equipment that
>may meet my needs or even a site with building instructions I'd
>appreciate it.
>
>Thanks again.
>
>Darren Harris
>Staten Island, New York.
harbor freight has a 48" box and pan brake that is rated for 16 ga.
part # 45876-1CYH
for the 'U' channel, you might be better off if you find some square
tubing(1/4 x 1/2) and have it cut in half. Plasma cutter would do it,
or a band saw.
--
Dan H.
northshore MA.
DoN. Nichols
> On Apr 3, 10:43 pm, "DoN. Nichols" <dnich...@d-and-d.com> wrote:
[ ... ]
>> I don't think that a finger (or pan) brake would be very easy to
>> produce a U with 1/4" sides -- depending on just how *wide* it is. If
>> it is say an inch wide -- fine. When I hear 'U', I think of something
>> not as wide as it is tall (like the letter 'U' on my screen. :-)
>>
>> If it is as wide as the side height (1/4") then that would not
>> work well at all -- unless he makes custom fingers for the brake.
>>
>> > Newer models are in the press brake form, and have
>> > even more clearance than most finger brakes. But,
>> > these often can't go past 90 degrees with the
>> > standard die sets.
>>
>> Again -- custom die set for the 'U'. Perhaps with a guide
>> included for the width of the stock prior to bending, so it remains
>> centered as the punch enters the die.
[ ... ]
> Thanks everyone.
>
> Ok, 14 gauge is out. :-)
>
> But I definitely need to bend 16 gauge, which I assume is a tiny bit
> under 1/16th of an inch.(But correct me if I'm wrong).
It is close enough to 1/16" so you can use that as a guide.
> Even if I have to use a torch to heat the metal up first, I don't
> think that would be a problem.
That will be difficult given how much steel will be clamped to
the metal right where the bend goes. It will take you hours to heat it,
and you will be reducing the hardness of the fingers and other contact
points.
If you are starting with mild steel, you probably won't need to
do the heating -- unless you work-harden it by the first bend.
> Depending on the size of the brake I have the option of storing it in
> the basement, so I don't think that weight would itself would be an
> issue.
O.K. As a couple of points of reference:
Brake Stand
Shipping Shipping
weight Weight
==================================================
24" 325 100
36" 470 140
So -- do you plan to use it in the basement? You certainly
don't plan to haul it upstairs use it and then haul it back down. You
are still in the apartment building?
And in the basement, you want to be sure to coat it with a good
oil or rust preventive (certainly not WD-40. :-)
> The 24-3/8" length comes from a piece I have to duplicate. At least a
> few times.
And the limit for my Di-Acro is precisely 24".
> As for the "U", each of the three walls will need to be the same 1/4".
Hmm ... from the manual for the #24 and #36 Brakes:
======================================================================
NOTE: Di-Acro Brakes are rated for 1" minimum flange when
bending full capacity. Caution should be used if necessary to
bend heavier gauge material in short widths.
======================================================================
And 16 gauge is the full capacity - especially at a full 24"
long. So a press brake with a custom punch and die would probably be
better for you.
> If anyone knows of any links that deal with specific equipment that
> may meet my needs or even a site with building instructions I'd
> appreciate it.
Here is the Di-Acro page dealing with the brakes (24" and 36"
ones). They used to have their manuals available for download in pdf
format. I think some others have the files still available.
Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
Searcher7
Ok, no heating...
> If you are starting with mild steel, you probably won't need to
> do the heating -- unless you work-harden it by the first bend.
Yes, mild steel is what I'll be using.
> > Depending on the size of the brake I have the option of storing it in
> > the basement, so I don't think that weight would itself would be an
> > issue.
>
> O.K. As a couple of points of reference:
>
> Brake Stand
> Shipping Shipping
> weight Weight
> ==================================================
> 24" 325 100
> 36" 470 140
>
> So -- do you plan to use it in the basement? You certainly
> don't plan to haul it upstairs use it and then haul it back down. You
> are still in the apartment building?
The basement would be my only option. The small room in my apartment
is for the lathe, Mill/Drill, and other smaller machines.
> And in the basement, you want to be sure to coat it with a good
> oil or rust preventive (certainly not WD-40. :-)
I use WD-40 to clean, and depending on what the tool/machine white
lithium grease or 3-in-1 oil.
> > The 24-3/8" length comes from a piece I have to duplicate. At least a
> > few times.
>
> And the limit for my Di-Acro is precisely 24".
Ok, I guess this will be more difficult than I thought. I'd assume I'd
probably need a larger and heavier machine than your Di-Arco. :-(
> > As for the "U", each of the three walls will need to be the same 1/4".
>
> Hmm ... from the manual for the #24 and #36 Brakes:
>
> ======================================================================
> NOTE: Di-Acro Brakes are rated for 1" minimum flange when
> bending full capacity. Caution should be used if necessary to
> bend heavier gauge material in short widths.
> ======================================================================
>
> And 16 gauge is the full capacity - especially at a full 24"
> long. So a press brake with a custom punch and die would probably be
> better for you.
Ok, I'm doing my research on those.
> > If anyone knows of any links that deal with specific equipment that
> > may meet my needs or even a site with building instructions I'd
> > appreciate it.
>
> Here is the Di-Acro page dealing with the brakes (24" and 36"
> ones). They used to have their manuals available for download in pdf
> format. I think some others have the files still available.
???
> Good Luck,
> DoN.
>
> --
> Email: <dnich...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
> (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
> --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Thanks a lot.