Watercolour-paper jewelery - best finish?
Brian Adam
the edge interestingly (like torn paper?) and bingo you got your paper and
backing all in one. Pin back could go on easily - silver solder or rivet.
Durable, nice colour, soft-ish metal, loverly!
Brian
--
B r i a n A d a m J e w e l l e r y E y e w e a r
http://www.adam.co.nz NEW ZEALAND
Brian Adam
> Hi Brian! You wrote:
> > How about roler-printing the paper onto fine silver sheet, cut or
> > somehow do the edge interestingly (like torn paper?) and bingo you got
> > your paper and backing all in one. Pin back could go on easily - silve
>
> but I am, um, (blushes) really quite a novice and have a couple of
> questions... what do you mean by "roler printing" the paper onto the
> silver?
Oops I meant 'roller printing'.
You know that you can roll metal out into thinner sheets?
Well if you put something onto the silver sheet as you roll it, then the
silver sheet is imprinted with that other thing. I do cotton sheets a lot,
also thick bath towelling makes a great texture on fine silver.
Paper works too. The cotton sheeting and all that, including the paper as
well, are pretty well destroyed in the process, though. That is, they are
seriously squashed! In fact paper comes out after squishing it onto silver
looking as thin and hard as those wafers you used to get in church!
> Would I need special tools/snips to cut the silver sheet?
Yes - you need a rolling mill. It's a piece of jewellery equipment like an
old clothes wringer. Costs a bunch! And it takes a little practice to get the
right pressure for the combined thickness of the silver and the paper. But
it's a GREAT way to do a lovely surface onto metal.
> And if
> I didn't have a well-stocked jewelery supply store in my town (I don't,
> pity those of us buying our supplies from Wal Mart) is there any other
> place I might get said silver sheet?
I recommend pure silver sheet for this imprinting job.
Also called in the trade fine silver, also called 999 silver.
It's lovely to work with. Not as strong as sterling silver, but you just make
things a little beefoier to compensate. It's also a nicer whitish colour than
sterling.
Where can you get it? Well I don't know much about your area. I assume
(fairly safe tp assume this as you don't say where you're from) you're in
USA. Try some Net resources. Firstly try <http://www.riogrande.com/>.
> As I said, the concept sounds so
> exciting and superior I'd love to pursue it. But on the other hand don't
> feel compelled to answer all these curious questions, just because you
> were nice enough to respond to my first post!!
I'm a nice kinda guy! Just ask Abrasha!
Let me know how you get on!
Brian
--
B r i a n A d a m J e w e l l e r y E y e w e a r
br...@adam.co.nz ph/fx +64 9 817 6816 NEW ZEALAND
http://www.adam.co.nz/
Andrew Werby
ronn...@mycollar.hotmail.com (ronniecat) wrote:
> I want to make some watercolour-paper pins and earrings for holiday gifts.
> Some will be on 300 lb weight paper, others on 140 lb weight glued to a very
> heavy cardboard backing. I would like to have a very high-gloss, very hard
> coating/glaze to finish these. Any suggestions? (While brand names would be
> appreciated, chemical/makeup names would be even more so because I am in
> Canada and cannot always get US brand name products here.)
[I've seen a heavy-bodied plastic glaze in the art supply store that claimed
to be equivalent to 50 coats of lacquer, but I don't remember the brand name.
Probably one of the larger internet art supplies has more info.
Another alternative might be to invest in an office laminating machine. For
under a hundred dollars US, they can produce a plasticized sheet of paper with
a lot less mess and stink.]
Andrew Werby
UNITED ARTWORKS- Sculpture, Jewelry, and other art stuff
http://unitedartworks.com
http://www.computersculpture.com for 3d design tools
Peggy & Bob
>
> How about roler-printing the paper onto fine silver sheet, cut or
> somehow do
> the edge interestingly (like torn paper?) and bingo you got your paper
> and
> rivet.
> Durable, nice colour, soft-ish metal, loverly!
Brian,
Could you please explain "roler-printing"?
Thanks,
Peggy
mailto:bobo...@ix.netcom.com
C. M. Fox
> x-no-archive: yes
>
> Delurking with a question!
>
> Hi -
>
> I want to make some watercolour-paper pins and earrings for holiday gifts.
> Some will be on 300 lb weight paper, others on 140 lb weight glued to a very
> heavy cardboard backing. I would like to have a very high-gloss, very hard
> coating/glaze to finish these. Any suggestions? (While brand names would be
> appreciated, chemical/makeup names would be even more so because I am in
> Canada and cannot always get US brand name products here.)
Acrylic paints (as in artist paints not house paints) come in a variety of
glazes. Some even offer uv protection. The ones I am most use to come in
flat, satin, and gloss finishes. You can paint them over your water colors
and they will give a nice finish.
Golden is a great brand down here and quite well-known. So perhaps you will
also find it in Canada. In any event get yourself to the nearest art
supply store and check out their acrylic paint supplies.
Hope this helps. PR
Carla
--
Remove *no spam* from my address
b-4 emailing me 8-)
Colene
> In article <36725657....@nntp.ix.netcom.com>,
> ronn...@mycollar.hotmail.com (ronniecat) wrote:
>
> > I want to make some watercolour-paper pins and earrings for holiday gifts.
> > Some will be on 300 lb weight paper, others on 140 lb weight glued to a very
> > heavy cardboard backing. I would like to have a very high-gloss, very hard
> > coating/glaze to finish these. Any suggestions? (While brand names would be
> > appreciated, chemical/makeup names would be even more so because I am in
> > Canada and cannot always get US brand name products here.)
>
> [I've seen a heavy-bodied plastic glaze in the art supply store that claimed
> to be equivalent to 50 coats of lacquer, but I don't remember the brand name.
> Probably one of the larger internet art supplies has more info.
One product like this is called EnviroTex Lite--it's used for many things,
including that
super-shiny finish you sometimes see on bartops. It works fine for paper
earrings. It's
a two-part product (common size is two roughly 6-oz bottles) and once it's mixed
according
to the directions, you can brush or flow it onto the surface. It's amazingly
self-levelling, and has a hard gloss finish. Available in art supply stores, as
well as
many hardware & discount dept. stores in the paint dept. One artist I know of
uses this
over tiny watercolor paintings, and I once made a collage table top and coated
it with
Envirotex, making it impervious to moisture damage when glasses were set upon
it. Very
protective finish. If you want to matte-down the finish, you can rub it with
extrafine
steel wool. Rather labor-intensive for things like earrings & pins, though!
Easier (and less expensive overall) is a clear acrylic spray (Liquitex, is but
one of
these). Works great over acrylic paint, for obvious reasons. Comes in gloss
and matte
versions. Use with the same cautions you would use with any aerosol spray paint
product--ventilation is really important!
With any of these options, PLEASE observe the safety warnings on the product.
My reply is a little late, but,
(as Peter says )
Hope This Helps,
Colene
>
>
> Another alternative might be to invest in an office laminating machine. For
> under a hundred dollars US, they can produce a plasticized sheet of paper with
> a lot less mess and stink.]
>
> Andrew Werby
>
> UNITED ARTWORKS- Sculpture, Jewelry, and other art stuff
> http://unitedartworks.com
> http://www.computersculpture.com for 3d design tools
--
Colene Abramson <c...@gis.net>
Jewelry design & repair by fine crafts artists
P. O. Box 74, Wayland, MA 01778-0074
(508) 358-3538 fax (508) 358-7654