Hot Foredom Handpiece
Dave
Recently my #30 handpiece has begun overheating. Like, after 90 secs,
it`s too hot to comfortably hold. I suspect the bearings, even tho
there`s no binding or grinding sounds. This happened very suddenly, and
I`d like to take it apart to see if there`s a way I can grease it or
take a look. However, it doesn`t seem to want to come apart
easily....anyone know how? I`ve taken off the brass nut, and gently
tried tapping the innards in both directions, nothing. Does the chuck
unscrew? If so, which direction?
What a pain...and this 2 weeks after I replaced and lubed the
driveshaft with the Foredom Maint. kit. Maybe coincidence, maybe not.
Thanks,
Dave
David L. Feldman
The fact that you lubed your shaft should have nothing to do with your piece
overheating (sorry for the terrible double entendres). DO NOT TRY TO
DISMANTLE your handpiece. Doing so, if you are unaware of how they work,
will only cause more damage. To be honest, since a new #30 only costs about
$45, rather than spend to have your current one repaired, I'd buy a new one.
Our experience has been that once a (relatively) inexpensive handpiece
starts to go bad, it's not worth fixing. Repair costs usually match or
exceed the replacement cost.
On the other hand, if the shaft or handpiece are relatively new, I'd give
Foredom a call. They're in Connecticut and the are very friendly to deal
with. If the piece is defective, they'll replace it. Their warranty is
excellent and their service is exceptional.
I hope this helps.
David Feldman
Metalliferous, Inc.
888-944-0909
"Dave" <MM...@Bellsouth.net> wrote in message
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Richard Friesen
a rubber sleeve on it. I replaced it with a new one. Foredom would have
repaired it but the difference in price wasn't worth it. I found I could
still use it by putting a little #30 oil in the back of the handpiece.
The oil does get out and onto things so it is of limited use but I could
use it until the new one arrived.
Dave
Thanks for the replies. I figured it was toast when it first heated up,
pardon the pun there. Sealed bearings--3/4 copper pipe makes a good fit for a
"driver" to press them out; bearings like to be pressed on the outer rim.
I jazzed it with a bunch of 3 in 1 ...the heat was melting the grease out,
anyway. I thought I`d flush the bad mojo and bearing scrum out that
way...being it is a "rush job" I`m doing, and a new handpiece is cheap.
Dripped all over, but held together. The key to being able to use it to the
bitter end was a "custom cut" terry cloth rag, kept wet to provide cooling.
Talk about nasty! Oil dripping, wet rag.....
Well, I bought the whole unit from a friend 5 years ago for 80 dollars,
footpedal and burrs included. Handpiece served me well, I`ll make a lamp out
of it.
After I use it 5 more years with a wet rag.
Dave
Peter W. Rowe
<MM...@Bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>Thanks for the replies. I figured it was toast when it first heated up,
A couple other thoughts...
Sometimes, extra load on the bearings in flex shaft handpieces can be due to the
shaft extending too far from the sheath, which then presses into the coupling in
addition to just tranfering the rotary motion. You can adjust this, by
loosening the screw where the sheath attaches to the coupling at the motor. The
sheath is terminated with a screw on fitting that screws to the motor. but the
connection of the sheath to that fitting is usually an adjustable one. Pull the
sheath a little away from the fitting and retighten the screw. Now the tabbed
end of the shaft does not extend as far from the working end of the sheath, and
won't fit as far into the coupling on the handpiece. If the result seems a
reduction in the noise or friction in the handpiece, you may find the handpiece
then runs cooler.
The other possible fix is if the friction is due to dirt currently still in the
bearings. If you've got an ultrasonic cleaner, you can fill a beaker with a
suitible solvent, like kerosene or mineral spirits, immerse the handpiece
therein in a vertical position, and run the cleaner for a while. Even better,
the more you've been able to disassemble the handpiece to allow access to the
bearings. Then run the handpiece a bit, still immersed in the solvent (slowly,
so as not to splash solvent all over), and clean some more. This will, of
course, remove all oil or grease from the bearings as well, which is not good.
but if you can get to the bearings, you can re-grease them. If not, immerse the
handpiece in a good higher viscosity motor oil for a while, then let it drain.
You'll need to repeat that occasionally, as the oil won't last as long as the
normal grease.
While you've got the handpiece disassembled (if you do) check that the shaft
still appears straight and unbent, and the chuck is still fine. If so, and the
problem is just worn out bearings, you CAN replace just the bearings. These are
standard bearings, available from any decent bearings supplier (check yellow
pages), or from fordom (more expensive that way, though) Whether this is worth
the fuss and bother, considering the low cost of the handpieces, of course, is
the question...
cheers
Peter
Dave
Excellent "other thoughts". I`d checked the shaft/sleeve adjustment, but never
mentioned that. Perhaps your post will help us all to remember that little teeny
screw up there, especially when replacing the shaft. The "maintainance kit" has
instructions pertaining to that.
What I`d reaaly like now, is a Foredom type machine, say...1HP or more, to
carve
and grind stone. Heavy duty...diamond burrs....a carving machine that truly eats
hard stone on a grand scale. After all, jewelry is tiny sculpture.
Sculpture is huge jewelry.
Dave
Dave Arens
> >>What I`d reaaly like now, is a Foredom type machine, say...1HP or more, to
> carve and grind stone. Heavy duty...diamond burrs....a carving machine that truly
> eats
> hard stone on a grand scale.<<
You may want to check out the Dumore line of grinders. They come in various
models,
including flex shafts. Since they're used mainly in the metals industry they're
built
to really rugged standards. they have a 1/4hp flex shaft that'll handle 1/4 &
1/8"
tools. Look for them at industrial tool suppliers. MSC (mscdirect.com) lists all
models as well as burrs & grinding stones.
Usual disclaimers, just a very satisfied customer,
Dave
phorbin
MM...@Bellsouth.net
Dave says...
I was having problems with the handpiece heating after I did a
maintenance check of shaft and housing and overlubed the shaft...
I removed some of the lubricant and the heating problem stopped...
--
phorbin
Power unused is merely potential.
Potential unused often withers.
rodney
By oiling them this will cause them to "heat up" . If you over lube the
shaft and the lube heats up and runs into the HP this will cause the same
prob. The only thing you can really do is to replace the HP.
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