I need to buy a 'Rolling Mill', any suggestions ?
FC...
than about $700.00 as my use for it will be VERY basic (texturing
metal, flattening out small ingots). I know nothing about 'rolling
mills' so any suggestions or information would be very welcome.
Thanks,
/FC....
Abrasha
You're not going to get much for $700.00.
I found a beautiful electric Dinkel for you on eBay. Unfortunately it
is in Germany. http://tinyurl.com/ahv879
I found another one on the US eBay site at http://tinyurl.com/dhv24f
The seller wants $800.00 for it. He claims the rolls are in perfect
condition, but they don't look that way in the photo. Maybe they are
covered in wax. Hard to tell from the photos. Handle missing, which
you must have to operate. Contact the seller and bargain. Offer him
$400, but only if the rolls are indeed in good condition. Having them
reground is costly and a hassle.
I'd look for a used one from one of the used equipment dealers in
Providence, RI
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com
Heinrich Butschal
> FC... wrote:
...
> I found a beautiful electric Dinkel for you on eBay. Unfortunately it
> is in Germany. http://tinyurl.com/ahv879
Don´t say it too loud, the Austrians would be exhausted if You count them to
germany. :-)
Mit freundlichem Gruß,
Heinrich Butschal
--
Schmuck Gutachter und Schmuckverkauf http://www.butschal.de
Schmuck nach Maß anfertigen http://www.meister-atelier.de
Firmengeschenke und Ehrennadeln http://www.goldschmiede-meister.com
Schmuckmanufaktur http://www.schmuckfabrik.de
Schmuck gut verkaufen und günstig kaufen http://www.schmuck-boerse.com
FC...
What about the PEPE mills, Are those any good ?
http://www.pepetools.com/viewcategory.php/categoryid/89
I found some of the above locally and wanted to get some feedback...
Cheers,
/FC...
Ted Frater
How Local? within say 1hr's driving?
If so, take some metal samples with you, plus the purchase money and
go and try them out.
The spec looks ok for the sort of use you will giveit.
Let us know if you try one out.
Peter W. Rowe
The two main "full quality" brands commonly seen in the U.S. are the Italian
Cavallin mills, and the British Durston mills. The German Dinkel are also
beautiful mills, but seem to be sold by fewer firms here in the U.S. Of the
three, the Itailan mills are often a little less costly, but not by much.
Durston and Dinkels seem about equal in both cost and quality, which exceed,
slightly, the Italian mills. I'd give the Durston mills a slight edge due to a
strong reputation for great customer service.
However, none of these mills are cheap. A few of the smallest ones come close
to your price cap. Maybe. Most are more. But all are worth their price.
There are, however, cheaper mills available. Many of the tools companies sell
what is usually an Indian made copy of an older Spanish model mill. Fairly
small, lighter weight, less capable. But half the cost, or less, of the Italian
of British mills. There are several versions out there. Some come with a
strange assortment of interchangeable rolls, some of which are less useful than
they look, but the options can seem attractive, and may be, for some people.
There's even a chinese made copy of that Indian made copy, which you can buy for
even less (under 200 I think) from Harbor Freight company. it's even cheesier
than the indian made mills. With these cheap mills, quality is variable. Some
are slightly better than others, though it's hard to tell just by looking
whether you're getting a good one or not. The one's sold by either Contenti
company, or Otto Frei, seem decent. The Contenti mill also has available a
unique series of pattern wire rolls, which may or may not fit some of the mills
sold by others, but I'd not bet on it.
As to the Harbor freight mill, it would be fine if you only want a mill to last
a temporary period of time, or will be using it only a few times per year, for
really light weight work.
The other lower cost mills share a common thread. They're light weight
machines. Now the problem is that in your description, you say you'll be using
it for basic work. Frankly, most mill work is pretty basic. The real
differences in mill capacity and usability aren't in whether you think you're
doing advanced or basic work. It's in what sorts of loads you're putting on the
rolls. With the Higher quality mills, you simply won't be breaking anything
unless you really work hard at abusing the mill. They're built right. The
lower cost ones, while they may be capable of decent rolling, usually cannot
take heavy loads. The rolls are too thin, and the frames not heavy duty enough.
What that means is that you can take only light "bites" with each pass through
the mill, or you risk breaking something. If you're working with narrow metal,
this is less an issue than if you're trying to use the full width of the roll.
You can certainly roll out small ingots of metal with any of these mills, but
with the cheap ones you'll have to take your time with more but lighter passes
through the rolls. The kicker is your hope to use the mill for texturing. Roll
printing, as it's often called, needs you to be able to emboss your full depth
of pattern into the metal usually in a single pass through the mill. Often it
requires at least a bit of a substantial bite to give a clear pattern. Whether
the small mills will do an adequate job of this will vary depending on the type
of pattern, the type of metal, and how wide the metal is, but the small mills
simply won't do all of it well. They will also have trouble producing very thin
metal (foil), where even slightly out of paralell and true rolls will mess up
the results. Still, I'd expect that if you're careful, either the small mill
sold by Contenti or the one from Otto Frei, would be mostly adequate for simple
uses. If buying from someone else (ebay) look very carefully to be sure it's
really the same mill from this different supplier. Some of those are junk, like
that Harbor Freight mill (which still has a place, but not so much if you're a
serious metalsmith rather than a sunday afternoon hobbyist)
The one other brand/type I've not mentioned yet are the Pepe brand mills. These
are an interesting situation. Pepe tools are mostly manufactured in eastern
europe, mostly the old soviet bloc nations that are now independent. Many of
these manufacturers used to be the places churning out things like soviet
fighter planes, and now need new work. The upshot is that these are expert
machinists who produce beautifully machined and looking tools. However, in
general, they have no idea what the tools they're making actually need to do.
They're made according to plans drawn up by Pepe, somewhere else, who may also
not really do any real engineering first. A number of other Pepe tools are
known for being almost ludicrously unusable because of this sort of system. An
example are the gorgeous dapping blocks and punches. Look great. Nicely
machined, and good steel. But the depressions in the dapping blocks are a full
180 degrees with a sharp clean edge, and the punches are exact fits for the
depressions in the block. That looks nice, but it means there's no clearance
for the metal. You cannot actually produce a proper hemisphere with these
blocks. A mistake caused by not understanding what the tool actually needs to
do. In the case of the Pepe rolling mills, I cannot tell you how they currently
stack up, but I CAN tell you that when they first hit the market, perhaps five
years ago, they looked great. Rio Grande company carried a bunch of them with
great fanfare. Within a year they were no longer sold because the damn things
kept breaking. Frames beautifully machined, but not strong enough. Gear teeth
and even rolls hardened so much they'd crack under load. My hope is that
someone at Pepe has reworked the specs so that the mills address these
shortcomings now, but I have no way to know if that's actually true. The
absence of these mills from the lines of a number of the major tools dealers
leads me to suspect that the Pepe mills may still have problems. But I don't
know.
By the way, on a similar vein, the most commonly broken parts on the little
Italian cheap mills are the simple bolts that hold the frames together. A stock
cheap part not up to the task. If you get one of these mills, check the
markings on the bolt heads on the frame to see what class they are, and if the
ordinary hardware store variety, replace them with better ones. That will
help.
Finally, keep in mind the old adage that the least expensive tool is often the
best quality one, for which you may initially have to pay more. This advice is
especially true for rolling mills, which need good quality design, materials,
and manufacture to do their job well for any length of time. There are many
fine rilling mills of the Durston/Cavalin/Dinkel brands, as well as other older
makes, that are still going strong after many decades of good service. I have
one sturdy old american made flat mill that at this point, is almost a hundred
years old, I think. My cavalin wire mill is 35 years old or more, and works
like new. It is doubtful that any of those small cheap mills would perform like
that. Buy a good mill now, and you'll have it for the rest of your career if
you wish, and take decent care of it. That's not money down the drain if you're
serious about your tools.
Peter Rowe
Abrasha
> Abrasha schrieb:
>> FC... wrote:
> ...
>> I found a beautiful electric Dinkel for you on eBay. Unfortunately it
>> is in Germany. http://tinyurl.com/ahv879
>
>
> Don´t say it too loud, the Austrians would be exhausted if You count them to
> germany. :-)
>
>
>
Artikelstandort: Neuwied, Germany!
Besides, even if it weren't, what about "Der Anschluss"?
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com
Abrasha
FC...
might Need !
It looks like it might be of better quality than the PEPE unit. I
like the fact that it has a much wider 'FLAT" surface too. What do
you folks think... ?
DRM C130 with Reduction
Heinrich Butschal
> Heinrich Butschal wrote:
>> Abrasha schrieb:
>>> FC... wrote:
>> ...
>>> I found a beautiful electric Dinkel for you on eBay. Unfortunately it
>>> is in Germany. http://tinyurl.com/ahv879
>>
>> Don´t say it too loud, the Austrians would be exhausted if You count them to
>> germany. :-)
>>
>>
>>
>
> Artikelstandort: Neuwied, Germany!
>
Sorry I didn´t read so far. Anyway it´s sold in the meantime.
> Besides, even if it weren't, what about "Der Anschluss"?
>
the next politically and emotional mining field. :-)
mnelso...@gmail.com
> Need to get a new Rolling Mill. =A0I don't really want to spend any more
> than about $700.00 as my use for it will be VERY basic (texturing
> mills' so any suggestions or information would be very welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> /FC....
Durston has recently made available a pair of very affordable Mills.
Both have a gear ratio of 4:1 which makes it very easy to do roller
printing. One is a 100mm combination rolling mill for about $710 and
the other is a 100mm Flat rolling mill for about $699.00. They were
able to bring down the price by removing the extension rollers that
did the 1/2 round wire. Which i think few people used anyway.
Rio Grande carries them as well as the other jewlery suppliers that
carry Durston mills.
I hope this is of some help
Mark Nelson
Rio Grande Tech support
Peter W. Rowe
You won't regret buying a Durston Mill. Highest quality, great customer service
and support in the rare event you need it. Note several models available. The
one you flagged has an 80 mm flat roll, with wire grooves for the rest. If you
don't need the wire, you can get it all flat (130 mm), but I'd guess the wire
rolls are useful, and you'll likely find 80 mm of flat capacity will serve
almost any needs for normal jewelry scale work. Do a quick price comparison
with the Italian Cavallin mills too, before choosing. Equal quality, though
not as accessable customer service from the manufacturer. But if from Rio or a
similar good supplier, that's not an issue, since they too provide good support.
Peter
Abrasha
Don't get it! Rolling mills with both the sheet and wire mill on one
set of rolls are no good. They are like sofa beds!
The width of the sheet section is only 80 mm, which means that you only
have about 60 to 65 mm of usable width to roll sheet, because it is not
possible to use that full width to roll sheet.
Get a mill with it;s full width used for sheet or wire. That may mean
you need to get two mills or one with the rolls above each other.
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com
Peter W. Rowe
<abr...@abrasha.com> wrote:
>>
>>Don't get it! Rolling mills with both the sheet and wire mill on one
>>set of rolls are no good. They are like sofa beds!
Well, yes. Agreed. but I'd also offer that if one has more limited need for a
mill, or perhaps only occasional need, AND needs both wire and steet capability,
While the combo mills aren't as useful as dedicated ones, they're still usable.
I used a combo Cavalin mill for years after school before I managed to afford a
better setup, and I've never regretted doing that. It got me through those
years when economically, I simply couldn't afford or justify two mills at full
price. And my old Combo mill got pulled back out of it's corner a few years ago
and sold to a former student who equally had to pinch pennies (and still does).
That mill, now 30 some years old, of course cost her less than a new one would
have, and meets her needs now as well as it did mine when I was starting out.
Does she want a better setup? Sure. Someday. For now, it does the job. And
though the combo mills have somewhat more limited utility than a dedicated mill
(especially the dedicated flat rolls, since the wire rolls on a combo mill are
quite useful, just over a smaller size range.), if one is getting a combo mill,
the Durston mills are reliable and well built, and will do what they're designed
to do. That might not be the case with the lower quality mills. It all comes
down to not only getting the best value for the money, but also considering the
size of one's available budget.
Peter
FC...
Question regarding the 'Combo Mills or Wire Only Mills'.
What is it that you jewelers make the most of with the 'grooved'
portion of the rollers. I understand that they make Square and Half
Round wire... Is that correct ? What is it that proves so
indispensable with the wire portion of the Mill (or a wire only
mill) ? Does it allow you to make a 'particular type of wire' ?
Forgive my ignorance, but I've never used such a unit and was
wondering what you are limited to as far as Flat Mill only VS. once
that has wire making ability (either dual rollers or combo..). What
would I be missing exactly ?
Cheers,
/FC....
Peter W. Rowe
<moogl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>Well those are both some pretty good points to consider...
>>
>>Question regarding the 'Combo Mills or Wire Only Mills'.
>>
>>What is it that you jewelers make the most of with the 'grooved'
>>portion of the rollers. I understand that they make Square and Half
>>Round wire... Is that correct ?
Depending on the mill, some of which don't have the half round grooves, yes.
Sort of. The most commonly used are the "square" grooves, but these don't
produce a true square. Their purpose is not to provide a final shape, but to
start with a larger piece, for example a long narrow ingot such as might be
produced with a wire ingot mold or the wire portions of a combination ingot
mold, and break those down into a narrower long wire that can then be finally
shapex with drawplates, usually to round wire, or to other cross sections as
desired. The shape they produce is a square but with cut corners. Not quite
octagonal. The reason is that the flats at the corners allow the product of one
set of grooves to fit into the next smaller grooves after being rotated 90
degrees, without producing a flange on the edge. You can, of course, use the
semi square wire as is, if it suits your needs, but usually it's a starting
point. Often, for example, one might then run it through the flat mill to
produce rectangle stock, if one is not drawing it into a wire with draw plates.
The half round grooves are less usefull, since they're not such a generic use.
But useful for producing half round stock, such as for ring shanks, without so
much filing, or the need to draw it down. Drawing wire with narrower sharper
edges, like shallower half round, or triangle, etc, is more difficult than
drawing round wire, and of course one must have the drawplates too. Probably
the most common use for the half round grooves is for ring shank stock, but of
course you can use it for anything you might want half round wire for...
>>What is it that proves so
>>indispensable with the wire portion of the Mill (or a wire only
>>mill) ? Does it allow you to make a 'particular type of wire' ?
Most jewelers work with both sheet metal and wire. having both capabilities
allows you to make both. Plus, making wire is sometimes easier than making
sheet metal, since in some metals (silver especially) getting defect free ingots
for sheet metal is trickier than for wire, where minor defects don't produce
blisters that ruin the final stock.
The combo mills have limited width available for sheet, so you make only smaller
pieces. If you work with larger sized jewelry pieces, that's a limitation worth
considering. Many commercial "bench" jewelers, however, rarely need the larger
size sheet. Similarly, the wire grooves on a combo mill don't start with as
large a size. So you need to start with a smaller diameter wire ingot. That
can be a bit more difficult to pour, and limits the amount of wire you can make
in a single length. Whether this is a problem depends on the type of work you
do. As said before, you can make almost any type of wire you wish because the
mill itself doesn't usually give you your final wire product (unlike with sheet
metal, where it does). You will still need drawplates and the means to draw
wire. But you need the mill first, since you cannot start with an ingot and
directly draw wire from it.
Having the ability to make your own wire is very useful. Among other things,
the cost to buy wire already made incurs higher manufacturing costs from the
metals suppliers than does sheet metal, so there are savings involved. And you
can use even fairly small amounts of scrap to produce usable amounts of wire.
>>Forgive my ignorance, but I've never used such a unit and was
>>wondering what you are limited to as far as Flat Mill only VS. once
>>that has wire making ability (either dual rollers or combo..). What
>>would I be missing exactly ?
The flat only mills simply give you more width to work with. That allows you to
make wider stock if you need it. Plus, without the grooves machined into the
rollers, the rolls are a bit stronger, flexing less under load. That can give
you more accurate sheet thickness, especially when rolling very thin stock, as
well as often allowing you to start with a slightly thicker ingot.
As Abrasha notes, two mills are much better than one combo unit (or one of the
double units with a single mill having two sets of rolls, one over the other.
But the cost for two mills is of course, double that of one, so the compromise
of a combo mill gives you much of the basic capability with just the cost of one
mill. Half round grooves, or the capacity some mills have of add on side rolls
for half round, triangle, or patterned rolls, give you added capability for
shapes that can be more difficult to produce without them. Not everyone uses or
needs those capabilities. The flat rolls and basic wire rolls are by far the
most useful capabilities.
But everyone's needs differ, as you can tell in part by the differences between
my comments and Abrasha's.
Hope that helps.
Peter Rowe
FC...
wrote:
> On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 10:54:23 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "FC..."
>
> >>Well those are both some pretty good points to consider...
>
> >>Question regarding the 'Combo Mills or Wire Only Mills'.
>
> >>What is it that you jewelers make the most of with the 'grooved'
> >>portion of the rollers. I understand that they make Square and Half
> >>Round wire... Is that correct ?
> But everyone's needs differ, as you can tell in part by the differences between
> my comments and Abrasha's.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Peter Rowe
Yep,
That worked for me ! Now I have a MUCH better understanding of how
these things work ! Where would I be without you experience
people ?? No doubt trying to roll SILVER ingots through a "Slip Roll"
or something.... :)
Awesome freaking advice from you all and I'm a happy camper as a
result.
The wire thing for me is definitely NOT as important as the "FLATS" of
the Mill... Especially since I'm rolling Silver, Gold, Copper, Brass,
etc. Finished wire is normally what I like to use and having to make
it myself (with drawplates and such...) just isn't 'worth it' at THIS
point. I think I'll continue to buy my wire as such and will purchase
the "FLAT ROLLING MILL" only. Likely the Durston 130.
If and when I'm ready to do a LOT of wire, I think I'll then either
sell my MILL and buy a DUAL rolling machine, or I'll add a WIRE only
machine to the Durston 130. Yes, that will work nicely and I won't
have to worry about buying such an EXPENSIVE combo machine with the
possibility of 'coming up short' (so to speak...) when it comes to
effective ingot rolling and "Patternizing" various metals !
Thanks for all the help.... I FREAKIN' love this group !
CHEERS,
/FC....
Abrasha
> Well those are both some pretty good points to consider...
>
> Question regarding the 'Combo Mills or Wire Only Mills'.
>
> What is it that you jewelers make the most of with the 'grooved'
> portion of the rollers. I understand that they make Square and Half
> Round wire... Is that correct ?
No. Typically the wire mill is only used to reduce the gauge of heavy
stock to smaller gauge in preparation for working the wire through a
draw plate. That is what I use my wire mill for 99% of the time.
> What is it that proves so
> indispensable with the wire portion of the Mill (or a wire only
> mill) ?
Gauge reduction of raw stock
>Does it allow you to make a 'particular type of wire' ?
No.
If you are only getting one mill, get a flat mill.
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com
Abrasha
>
> Yep,
>
> That worked for me ! Now I have a MUCH better understanding of how
> these things work ! Where would I be without you experience
> people ?? No doubt trying to roll SILVER ingots through a "Slip Roll"
> or something.... :)
> Awesome freaking advice from you all and I'm a happy camper as a
> result.
>
> The wire thing for me is definitely NOT as important as the "FLATS" of
> the Mill... Especially since I'm rolling Silver, Gold, Copper, Brass,
> etc. Finished wire is normally what I like to use and having to make
> it myself (with drawplates and such...) just isn't 'worth it' at THIS
> point. I think I'll continue to buy my wire as such and will purchase
> the "FLAT ROLLING MILL" only. Likely the Durston 130.
A good choice I think.
>
> If and when I'm ready to do a LOT of wire, I think I'll then either
> sell my MILL and buy a DUAL rolling machine, or I'll add a WIRE only
> machine to the Durston 130.
When the time comes, add a wire only mill. Do not sell the flat mill!
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com
Ted Frater
Id say for the small time user a combo mill will prove more useful.
I bought my Durston some 25yrs ago and its as good as the day i bought it
My need was to do production milling so I motorised it.
Has been fine.this way.
However when making tapered section material one needs to wind in
then reverse out. Then move down to the next groove and repeat.
So to do this I put the handle back on.
Cant do this if its motorised.
Since then I accumulated several mills all flat.
The last one has a big 3ft 50lb flywheel on the handle shaft. with a 5
to I reduction. rolls 5 by 2.5in dia.
Had to get them reground to produce a true straight roll.
Last year I had to mint 2500 commemorative plaques for a 40th
anniversary . the material supplied was 3in wide by .036in thick.70/30
lead free guilding metal.
On calculating the length needed to make this no the client supplied
material left me with 500 approx short.
Ie enough for 2000,
What to do?
Cant ask for more, so I motorised this latest mill, set up input guide
rails, cut 3ft lengths of material and rolled it down so it was 48in long.
Reduction to .027in.
Worked just fine.
From cutting the sheet in strips(5 off)
rolling, guillotining to length, hot drop stamping,
pickling, clipping then date stamping, total of 50 in each production
day of 6 hrs work.
If youve wondered as to the heating to dull cherry red. made a Davy
miners lamp principle of controlled neutral non oxidising stainless
steel gauze muffle. with hinged top. Can see when its the right temp by
colour . Remove with tongs drop stamp thne pickle rince neutralise dry
and stack.
Hope this is of interest.
Ted
Dorset
UK.
Abrasha
> Peter W. Rowe wrote:
>> On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 10:54:23 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "FC..."
>> <moogl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
You could have spared us the story and just posted the first sentence.
But no, you needed to take up bandwidth and take 127 lines for that!
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com
Peter W. Rowe
<abr...@abrasha.com> wrote:
>>Ted Frater wrote:
...
>>>
>>> Id say for the small time user a combo mill will prove more useful.
(story snipped)
>>> Hope this is of interest.
>>> Ted
(Abrasha writes)...
>>
>>You could have spared us the story and just posted the first sentence.
>>
>>But no, you needed to take up bandwidth and take 127 lines for that!
Yes, the first sentance was mostly enough for the exact topic of the thread.
But his last sentance was the reason for the rest. And I for one, even if it
had less to do with the thread's question at hand, found the description of his
recent project of interest. Perhaps others did as well.
and it's not as though the group's current activity level is straining anyone's
bandwidth capacities...
:-)
Peter
Ted Frater
> Ted Frater wrote:
>> Peter W. Rowe wrote:
>>> On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 10:54:23 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "FC..."
>>> <moogl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
[[ snip ]]
...
>> Hope this is of interest.
>> Ted
>> Dorset
>> UK.
>
>
>
> But no, you needed to take up bandwidth and take 127 lines for that!
>
information.
If yoiu dont approve of my posts then you shouldnt read them.
If the moderator of this news group thinks I should change the way I
post then its up to him to tell me, dont you think?
Hand milling is good for small stuff, but when you have to process some
125kgs of material then power milling is the way o go.
I tried to hand mill it but it was too much effort. I used a 3hp motor
running ar 1440 rpm, with a 3 in pulley and an a section vee belt
driving onto the 36in dia flywheel.
Hope this helps those who might have to do this one day.Im probably the
only one man band production drop stamper that uses all kinds of
techniques including those from the jewellery world.
polymer
> Abrasha wrote:
>> Ted Frater wrote:
>>> Peter W. Rowe wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 10:54:23 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "FC..."
>>>> <moogl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> ...
> [[ snip ]]
> ...
>>> Hope this is of interest.
>>> Ted
>>> Dorset
>>> UK.
>>
>>
>> You could have spared us the story and just posted the first sentence.
>>
>> But no, you needed to take up bandwidth and take 127 lines for that!
>>
> For the record the original enquirer asked for ANY suggestions or
> information.
> If yoiu dont approve of my posts then you shouldnt read them.
[That message] just seems nasty. I think that it's a good idea to
have information about these kinds of things. I'd like to hear
more, thanks. [snip]
--
los polymer
[posted with minor edits by the moderator to conform with group charter rules.
Posters are reminded that this is a moderated newsgroup which prohibits personal
attacks. Keep comments sufficiently related to the topic that they won't risk
starting a flame war or something.]
Ted Frater
I thought some time ago that perhaps to generate more "action" on this
newsgroup, it might be an idea for all us regulars to post a monthly
news roundup.
I for one would be interested in what you Peter had through your hands
that perhaps was unusual, or difficult and you solved the problem in
your expert way.
Also what Abrasha might be doing as well.
If you Peter think that this might be a good idea let us know.
Im reluctant to post details of my current project( an unusual one)
incase im shouted down again.
Ted.
Peter W. Rowe
<ted.f...@virgin.net> wrote:
>>
>>I thought some time ago that perhaps to generate more "action" on this
>>newsgroup, it might be an idea for all us regulars to post a monthly
>>news roundup.
>> I for one would be interested in what you Peter had through your hands
>>that perhaps was unusual, or difficult and you solved the problem in
>>your expert way.
>> Also what Abrasha might be doing as well.
>>
>>If you Peter think that this might be a good idea let us know.
>>Im reluctant to post details of my current project( an unusual one)
>>incase im shouted down again.
>>Ted.
You weren't shouted down. I believe Abrasha was merely offering us his
typically brief and perhaps blunt opinion that your project description wasn't
along the topic's original question any more. He's perhaps right to some extent
on that, though your explanation makes sense too. Whatever the case, your
suggestion is for a different thing, and frankly, it sounds OK to me. I can't
promise I'll be adding all that much, unless you want the thrilling details of
things like my current worries about health insurance and the slowdown in
business. But that's economics, not jewelry, and possibly not appropriate to
the group. But if you'd like to keep us informed of your current ideas and
projects, I'm all in favor of it.
So sure. So long as it's reasonably on topic for the group, send it in. Might
be a fun idea.
Peter Rowe
moderator
rec.crafts.jewelry
Limpy
Fri, 13 Mar 2009 17:16:43 -0700 we were all amazed to see Abrasha
<abr...@abrasha.com> write:
>FC... wrote:
>> I found this one at Rio and it looks like just the Rolling Mill I
>> might Need !
>>
>> It looks like it might be of better quality than the PEPE unit. I
>> like the fact that it has a much wider 'FLAT" surface too. What do
>> you folks think... ?
>>
>> DRM C130 with Reduction
>>
>> http://www.durston.co.uk/lan-en/prod-m-drm130-en.htm
>>
>
>Don't get it! Rolling mills with both the sheet and wire mill on one
>set of rolls are no good. They are like sofa beds!
I hate to admit it, but I agree with Abrasha.
Oh God! I feel so dirty!