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Advice on Repairs to Native American Jewelry

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renee mastrocco

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May 31, 1995, 3:00:00 AM5/31/95
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I would appreciate advice on how to repair loose stones in a
Navajo bracelet. The stones are not about to fall out of the
bezel setting, but move slightly to the touch. This piece not
only has sentimental value, but it was also quite expensive ($400).

I am currently searching for a silversmith, but would like to know
my options. Also, I believe that if some kind of epoxy was placed
along the bezel, the stones could be secured. I would attempt this
myself, but fear that I may make matters worse.

Thanks in avance for your assistance. You can email directly at
mas...@rockvax.rockefeller.edu Renee Mastrocco

renee mastrocco

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May 31, 1995, 3:00:00 AM5/31/95
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So sorry, but I omitted important information in my first posting.
The stones in the bracelet are green turquoise, which I know is
porous and sensitive to perfumes etc. Hope this added info is of
some help. Again, thanks for the help. :) Renee.

David Falk

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May 31, 1995, 3:00:00 AM5/31/95
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renee mastrocco (mas...@rockvax.rockefeller.edu) wrote:
: I would appreciate advice on how to repair loose stones in a

: Navajo bracelet. The stones are not about to fall out of the
: bezel setting, but move slightly to the touch. This piece not
: only has sentimental value, but it was also quite expensive ($400).

: I am currently searching for a silversmith, but would like to know
: my options. Also, I believe that if some kind of epoxy was placed
: along the bezel, the stones could be secured. I would attempt this
: myself, but fear that I may make matters worse.

Unless the stones are secured with epoxy or are sitting on a cushion
(i.e. sandpaper with aluminum foil), stones placed in a bezel setting
do tend to be slightly loose. The easiest thing that can be done is
to re-burnish the bezel settings just to tighten things up a bit.
Unfortunately, to remove and reset these (green turquoise) stones
may cause some cosmetic problems to the peice not the least of which
could be damage to the stones themselves and marring of the silverwork.
Try the re-burnishing. I think that's your best bet.

Hope it helps...

Dave.
--
David Falk, Junior System Administrator, SoftQuad Inc. <df...@sqwest.bc.ca>
<!ENTITY Subliminal_Message "Do a Nice Thing for Someone Today" >
*My opinions do not represent those of SoftQuad Inc.* IRC: Sutekh
**KIMAGURE ORANGE ROAD... FOREVER****Linux, choice of a GnuType Generation**

David Falk

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May 31, 1995, 3:00:00 AM5/31/95
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David Falk (df...@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca) wrote:
: renee mastrocco (mas...@rockvax.rockefeller.edu) wrote:
: : I am currently searching for a silversmith, but would like to know

: : my options. Also, I believe that if some kind of epoxy was placed
: : along the bezel, the stones could be secured. I would attempt this
: : myself, but fear that I may make matters worse.

Let me just add that you shouldn't try to epoxy it.
A sloppy epoxy job can ruin your peice.

Let me also say that re-burnishing job is very easy, very inexpensive,
and usually very safe.

Later...

PeterWRowe

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Jun 1, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/1/95
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As David Falk says, simply retightening the stones by burnishing the bezel
over slightly should do the trick. By the way, if you don't have a real
burnisher, a little creative thinking should find some smooth, curved
steel surface with which you can safely press down that edge. In a pinch
I've used the end of a stainless teaspoon with good results, though the
spoon is large, and will not reach into tight areas. Obviously, if you
have the right tools, the job will go easier, but my point is that it is
so easy to do, and requires so little force, that you can improvise
easily. One other note, Something that may explain why the stone loosen
is this observation: Many times I've seen navajo or other indian made
silverwork use coarse wood sawdust packed behind the stones as a resiliant
cushion. this sets the stones up higher in the bezel, making them look
thicker, and also gives the stones some "shock absorber" protection. Also
it makes setting easier, as the silversmith can just freely burnish down
the bezel with little care about pushing too hard on the stone, which can
give a bit in the process. But when this is done, the stone is pressed
nice and tightly against the bezel for a good look. Unfortunatly, this
flexibility can let the stone push a little too hard against the bezel,
loosening it, or the sawdust can compact a bit more, with the same result.
I may be imagining this, but it seems I've seen a lot more turquose that
is loose turn out to be cushioned this way than with, say, cardboard or
plastic (Sometimes bits of old phono record were used). And if you by
chance should find yourself with a stone out of the bezel, be careful not
to disturb that sawdust if you can. If it comes out, you'll never pack it
in quite the same way. In that case, cut up some layers of cardboard to
set the stone on at the original level, or as David suggests, aluminum
foil crumpled up would work also.

Peter Rowe

Gavin Gilmore

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Jun 2, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/2/95
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The sawdust behind the stone in Navajo jewelry is usually boxwood and
a type of hide glue the ancient formula for which is handed down from
generation to generation based on tradition and yes it sometimes does not
last....I specialize in repair and restoration of this type of jewelry
and the piece needs to be rebuilt with modern glue used to bed the stone.

I would not suggest allowing most storefront jewelers to touch it or
even estimate it. I get at least one item a week that is a re-repair and
some are almost beyond repair because some diamond setter did not
understand the workmanship or the type of work needed on such an item. It
goes back to what we had said about turning down work . I would be glad
to advise on someone in your area who is qualified to fix or restore the
bracelet or simply discuss further what needs to be done with it. Simply
tightening the bezel won't do much good and in fact may damage the stone.
Please don't try and glue the stone in. G.Chando Gilmore Jewel12
-
GAVIN GILMORE QKY...@prodigy.com

P.Moravek

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Jun 2, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/2/95
to
In article <3qjh6h$1...@newsbf02.news.aol.com> peter...@aol.com (PeterWRowe) writes:
>As David Falk says, simply retightening the stones by burnishing the bezel
>over slightly should do the trick. By the way, if you don't have a real
>burnisher, a little creative thinking should find some smooth, curved
>steel surface with which you can safely press down that edge. In a pinch
>I've used the end of a stainless teaspoon with good results, though the
>spoon is large, and will not reach into tight areas. Obviously, if you
>have the right tools, the job will go easier, but my point is that it is
>so easy to do, and requires so little force, that you can improvise
>easily. One other note, Something that may explain why the stone loosen
(lots of good information deleted for brevity)

>chance should find yourself with a stone out of the bezel, be careful not
>to disturb that sawdust if you can. If it comes out, you'll never pack it
>in quite the same way. In that case, cut up some layers of cardboard to
>set the stone on at the original level, or as David suggests, aluminum
>foil crumpled up would work also.
>
>Peter Rowe

I've also seen one native American use flat, thin-gauge (abt. 20 ga)
bits (rectangles or squares) of scrap silver to back up the stone before
burnishing the bezel. (He also repaired pieces, and often replaced
the cardboard or sawdust with his snipped silver).

His greatest gripe was epoxied or glued-in stones! So the original
poster may wish to avoid that route.

The pieces were not very flat (being snipped with shears), so they
acted as a "spring" under the stone, allowing a bit of "give" when
working the bezel frame over the edges of the stone.

Kinda like this (excuse my "drawing") cross-section.

________
bezel wire frame-------------> |/ Stone \|
(vertical "|"'s) |------------|
Find inside, the | ---------- |
irregular bits of silver-----> | ------- |
----------------------------
^ Base (or back) of mounting ^

I haven't tried it myself, though. Anyone have comments?

Employee of A.T.Datasystems

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Jun 5, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/5/95
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I am a professional jeweller and have worked on native american
jewellery on occasion. If you prefer to repair the piece yourself,
the use of epoxy is a good idea. Wash the article with mild soap
using a tooth brush to gently scrub between the bezel and the
stone. Leave the article in a warm dry place over night to make
sure that all water is evaporated. Mix the epoxy for at least a
minute then use a pin to dip into the epoxy and carefully dab it
between the stones and the bezels. If the void between the bezel
and stone is fairly large and you are not able to push the bezel
into the stone, you might want to mix the epoxy with some dry
water color poster paint the same color as the turquoise. Cheers !


C. M. Fox

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Jun 8, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/8/95
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In article <3qnn5f$1v...@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>, QKY...@prodigy.com
(Gavin Gilmore) wrote:


> I would not suggest allowing most storefront jewelers to touch it or
> even estimate it. I get at least one item a week that is a re-repair and
> some are almost beyond repair because some diamond setter did not
> understand the workmanship or the type of work needed on such an item. It
> goes back to what we had said about turning down work .

May I second this. I have had a beautiful turquoise ring "fixed" by
someone not qualified. They removed the turquoise from the bezel,
resoldered the broken shank and replaced the stone. Only problem was they
broke the stone. And sent it back to me broken but..... reset. It by the
way had a piece of cardboard under it to make it thicker.

Wiser but sorry.

Carla

PeterWRowe

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Jun 9, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/9/95
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In article <foxon-08069...@vi-a7.hevanet.com>, fo...@hevanet.com
(C. M. Fox) writes:

>
>May I second this. I have had a beautiful turquoise ring "fixed" by
>someone not qualified. They removed the turquoise from the bezel,
>resoldered the broken shank and replaced the stone. Only problem was they
>broke the stone. And sent it back to me broken but..... reset. It by the
>way had a piece of cardboard under it to make it thicker.
>
>Wiser but sorry.
>
>Carla

Sounds like you got one of those "bench monkeys" Ray is always moaning
about. You should have sent the ring to me or to him...

Seriously, have you considered replacing the broken stone? That might
restore the ring to something you'd again enjoy...

Peter Rowe

MAPERL

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Jun 19, 1995, 3:00:00 AM6/19/95
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I also have repaired quite a bit of native American jewelry and take
exception to the use of epoxy in most instances. I try to repair a piece
in the manner that it was originally crafted whenever possible. The use of
epoxy makes possible future repairs extremely difficult, also the use of
epoxy can color porous turquoise. I would only use glue in the most
difficult repair and then I would try to use a cyanacrylic and not an
epoxy. This of course is just my opinion

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