Coloring Titanium
willE1
to etch and color this interesting metal? I've tried the heat- with- a-
torch method and would like to have better control of the outcome. Any help
would be appreciated. Thanks, Will Estavillo.
Brian Adam
<URL:mailto:wil...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> Hi All, I just acquired some Titanium [...snip]
> Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Will Estavillo.
1. Heating can be controllable - support the work on mesh and do it
slow with a cool bushy flame under it. Also try an enamelling oven.
2. Colour it with an anodiser. But be very careful when operating
this device as it operates at mains voltage.
Power source: zero to mains (0v-110 or 220v) variable
transformer, DC output, 2.5 amp current, 2A fuse, double-insulated.
Electrolyte: dishwashing detergent in water.
Container: plastic salad bowl, with strainer inside the bowl.
Cathode: connect a strip of titanium to the black negative (-) lead
above the waterline, submerge the rest of the strip in between the
plastic bowl/strainer.
Anode: connect Ti wire to the red positive (+) lead and fully
insulate all parts that you handle.
BTW Oppi Untracht in his jewellery tome talks of the Ti/Nb anodising
electrolyte as a mix of phosphoric and nitric acids (ISTR) but when
reality checks in all you need is water with a bit of dishwash in it!
Prepare to anodise by placing the work in the electrolyte and touching
it with the Ti (+) wire for a few seconds, maybe up to ½ minute or
more. The current is to go from the anode wire (+) to the work,
through the electrolyte, to the cathode (-).
Switch on power at (say) 25v and watch the colour happen. Leave the
voltage setting at 25v and the whole piece will become that colour all
over. Raise the voltage and try another colour. The colours are
voltage-dependent to a degree, as size of workpiece has a big bearing
on the colour at any one voltage. Just wing it for the colour you
want. Watch and see. I once drew up a fancy colour=voltage chart but I
never look at it now.
It's not a given that all anodised Ti (and niobium) will come out
even-coloured. Surface quality has a bearing so degrease well. Parts
near the cathode get 'done' earlier irrespective of where you touch
the anode wire to the work. Pointy and narrow bits colour up earlier
too. Unlike anodising aluminium the amperage is lower (way less than
an amp), so no arcing happens where the anode wire touches, except at
about 150v up (220v = mains voltage here).
I use a chemical pickle. This mix is slower than hydroflouric, but I
won't use that insidious acid. Here's the mix:
sodium flouride 4%
hydrochloric acid 20%
distilled water remainder to 500ml
I recommend you buy the anodising machine from Reactive Metals
<www.reactivemetals.com> ph 520/634-3434, 800/876-3434, fax
520/634-6734. They sell a lot of other useful stuff - get their
paintbrush attachment and paint your designs.
No responsibility, the usual riders etc, for all this advice. I don't
know how competent you are with this sort of equipment.
Brian
--
B r i a n A d a m J e w e l l e r y E y e w e a r
http://www.adam.co.nz NEW ZEALAND
willE1
can return the favor some day. Regards, Will Estavillo
Brian Adam <br...@spamaway.co.nz> wrote in message
news:371719b2....@nntp.ix.netcom.com...