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How do I give lead came a copper patina?

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The Fourth Warrior

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Jan 8, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/8/98
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Hello,

I wonder if you can help?

I have made a Tiffany type mirror surrounded with flowers. I have foiled the
sections and they have taken on a nice copper patina with copper sulphate.

The problem I am having is that the "U" shaped lead came I have used around
the outer edges for protection does not come up with the same finish but
turns a dull almost black shade. Yes, I have cleaned it with MEK (cough,
cough!) but still cannot get the same colouring as the soldered joints.

If you can make some suggestions, I would be very pleased.

Regards,

Dave. (De Tancquar')

Bob Duchesneau

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Jan 9, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/9/98
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>I have made a Tiffany type mirror surrounded with flowers. I have foiled
the
>sections and they have taken on a nice copper patina with copper
sulphate.
>
>The problem I am having is that the "U" shaped lead came I have used
around
>the outer edges for protection does not come up with the same finish
but
>turns a dull almost black shade. Yes, I have cleaned it with MEK (cough,

>cough!) but still cannot get the same colouring as the soldered joints.
>
>If you can make some suggestions, I would be very pleased.

There is a patina made for lead but it is not as good as that made for
solder IMO. I suggest you clean the lead border came with fine steel wool
and tin with the same solder you used on the basic piece. Now when you
patina the match should be exact.

BTW, your studio will be a better place if you get rid of the MEK. The
fire and health hazards are not worth it.
Bob
-
BOB DUCHESNEAU YWA...@prodigy.com


DGoncz

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Jan 9, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/9/98
to

I wouldn't think MEK, which is a solvent, would be helpful in removing lead
oxide from lead came. I think it only serves as a lubricant, and any cleaning
would be done by abrasion.

As lead is low in the electrochemical series, the only way to get copper onto
it is with electricity. But that isn't necessary to get a matching patina.
There may be a treatment that looks like the copper sulphate patina when used
with lead.

Rec.crafts.metalworking has an FAQ with asection on metal finishing.

There should be a treatment to match

Yours,

DGo...@aol.com

If you'd like to, see my latest
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CHurtenbach

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Jan 9, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/9/98
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In article <884299218.27615.0...@news.demon.co.uk>,
da...@detankard.demon.co.uk says...

>
>Hello,
>
>I wonder if you can help?
>
>I have made a Tiffany type mirror surrounded with flowers. I have
foiled the
>sections and they have taken on a nice copper patina with copper
sulphate.
>
>The problem I am having is that the "U" shaped lead came I have used
around
>the outer edges for protection does not come up with the same finish
but
>turns a dull almost black shade. Yes, I have cleaned it with MEK
(cough,
>cough!) but still cannot get the same colouring as the soldered
joints.
>
>If you can make some suggestions, I would be very pleased.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dave. (De Tancquar')
>

>
You should go to your glass supplier or any art supply store and get a
copper paint pen. This will match the patina and not disturb the lead.
This way you can keep a smooth finish and not risk melting the channel.
Cynthia


Ernest McCloskey

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Jan 9, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/9/98
to

Bob Duchesneau wrote:
>
> >I have made a Tiffany type mirror surrounded with flowers. I have foiled
> the
> >sections and they have taken on a nice copper patina with copper
> sulphate.
> >
> >The problem I am having is that the "U" shaped lead came I have used
> around
> >the outer edges for protection does not come up with the same finish
> but
> >turns a dull almost black shade. Yes, I have cleaned it with MEK (cough,
>
> >cough!) but still cannot get the same colouring as the soldered joints.
> >
> >If you can make some suggestions, I would be very pleased.
>
> There is a patina made for lead but it is not as good as that made for
> solder IMO. I suggest you clean the lead border came with fine steel wool
> and tin with the same solder you used on the basic piece. Now when you
> patina the match should be exact.
>
> BTW, your studio will be a better place if you get rid of the MEK. The
> fire and health hazards are not worth it.
> Bob
> -
> BOB DUCHESNEAU YWA...@prodigy.com
I have had extensive experience with MEK. Extremely nasty stuff, never
breath the vapors (wear protective mask) use in a well ventalated area.
This solvent has a very low flash point and burns like alcohol. Do not
rub anything together near it that could create sparks or generate heat
from abrasion. Bobs right when he says it's not worth the fire and
health risk.

CHurtenbach

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Jan 10, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/10/98
to

In article <884299218.27615.0...@news.demon.co.uk>,
da...@detankard.demon.co.uk says...
>
>Hello,
>
>I wonder if you can help?
>
>I have made a Tiffany type mirror surrounded with flowers. I have
foiled the
>sections and they have taken on a nice copper patina with copper
sulphate.
>
>The problem I am having is that the "U" shaped lead came I have used
around
>the outer edges for protection does not come up with the same finish
but
>turns a dull almost black shade. Yes, I have cleaned it with MEK
(cough,
>cough!) but still cannot get the same colouring as the soldered
joints.
>
>If you can make some suggestions, I would be very pleased.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dave. (De Tancquar')
>
>
Hi Again-
In my previous post I forgot to mention that if you know ahead of time
that your panel will be patina'd in copper, just use a copper U channel
for the outside. If the piece is square or rectangle use any size that
suits the piece, for a round or oval that is not too large 1/8" copper
U will take the bend, otherwise larger rounds would need a came bender
to curve 1/4" or larger U.


Arthur

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Jan 13, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/13/98
to

Hi - new to the group - I read somewhere in a magazine dealing with plastic
modelling (MEK is a very good solvent/cement for polystyrene) that MEK
inhaled though a cigarette delivers phosgene into the lungs...!

Phogene, as I'm sure you'll know, was one of the nastier gases delivered to
the trops in the trenches in World War I, and it's no less nasty now.

Cheers

Arthur

Yoh!

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Jan 18, 1998, 3:00:00 AM1/18/98
to

My thanks to all of you who have written with advice. I am sorry to say that
I had a major crash and lost all my personal E-Mails from those of you in
this NG.

The comments on MEK have already been taken on board but it does no harm to
be reminded of the dangers of chemicals which can so easily be mis-used. I
take very careful note!

I have found a way of matching the patina on the lead surround. I cleaned
the leadwork with )))) steel wool and degreased it. This I then followed
with 10mm copper foiling and tinning of the foil after trimming where
necessary. The patina took to it like a dream.

Once again, my thanks to all who aswered my question.

Regards,

Dave (De Tancquar')


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