Mike Firth, Hot Glass Bits furnace glassblowing newsletter
Mike...@AOL.com Mike...@compuserve.com
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I once had a recipe for making crayons with glass enamels. It involved mixing
the enamel powder with gum tragacanth and casting crayons in a modeling clay
mold. I never tried it and can't locate the recipe right now.
My guess is that you could blow a vessel and anneal it. Crayon on it and
reheat to 1050F. This works with painted enamels ala Cappy Thompson.
Bert
Bert Weiss Glass Studio
Painted Art Glass
Custom Productions
Architectural and Sculptural Cast Glass
Collaborative Art Glass
Lighting design
--
>My guess is that you could blow a vessel and anneal it. Crayon on it and
>reheat to 1050F. This works with painted enamels ala Cappy Thompson.
Yup. There are a whole series of color application methods that involve
working
the glass cold (enameling, gral (sp?) either changing color applied hot or
applying
color cold. But I really like the dynamics of working glass hot and cooling
and reheating it too much like pottery. And there is the technique of using a
torch with a colored rod to draw pencil-like pictures on the piece while it is
being worked (ie it is
1000-1500F) as William Bernstein does (and others, I am sure.) But the
quality of
the drawing (and my drawing skill) is not what I want. I am more interested
in the
softer tones of powdered color rather than line work.
And of course, I could lay out the pictures in glass powder on a marver
plate, but
the way I do glass, I don't have a lot of working time and moving around
several
prepared powder pictures seems a formula for disaster or at least dismay.
Perhaps I should just arrange drawing on the plates with a medium that sets and
burn that off in preheating the plate.
But I was curious.
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>Henry Halem's GLASS NOTES, A REFERENCE FOR THE GLASS
>ARTIST includes Walter Lieberman's recipe for making
>GLASTELS(tm), which are the %22crayons%22 mentioned above.
>They can be used either hot or cold(on a sandblasted
>surface and then fired).
Would like to know what page. I looked through my copy, checking the
contents of the most likely sections (and several unlikely), but didn't find
any reference.
burn that off in preheating the plate.
But I was curious.
Your proposals and ideas are really intriguing. I can suggest this
buy Oil of Clove- and mix it with the powders. Oil of Clove is used as an
extender in China Painting (ground glass enamels...basically)
and burns off clean.
so - you could either mix the glass enamels and "paint" them on surface of the
marver-
OR make a "sand painting" Navajo Indian style- by drizzling the powders
through your fingers, using small enameling spoons, a straw, etc. Then lightly
mist the whole picture with either Oil of clove or one of the commercial enamel
fixatives.. this would hold it in place...
blow and roll.??? Of course - I would guess one needed two marvers - one to
work the piece from - and one to have the drawing set up on....
I would be sorely tempted to experiment a lot!
let us know if you produce something along this line... sounds interesting.
Please visit my website, DRAGON BEADS at:
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Thank you!
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I've got the 3rd edition. Can someone (Henry ?} post a summary. Bob
-
BOB DUCHESNEAU Mountain Meadow Stained Glass 92026
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>which page in
>Halem's book you'll find Lieberman's GLASTELS(tm).
>I've got the 1994 2nd edition and it's on page 59 with
>Sandblast Resist, Jack Wax, and Mold Separator.
Wierd, there must be more than one 2nd edition. In any case, it is on page 62
of the first edition and page 64-65 of the second edition I have.
Since Henry dropped it from the third edition, I hope I can paraphrase/quote
a
modest amount under the fair use provisions of the copyright law without
getting
too much of a blistering. He calls for 1/2 oz of gum tragacanth soaked
overnight
or longer in 24 oz of water. Mix after soaking On a sheet of glass put 2
ounces
(3 in the recipe section, 2 in the narrative) of enamel (powdered glass) and
add
a little of the gum solution with a little water. Use a palette knife (thin
flat blade)
to work the mix into a putty like mass, then roll the mass into "worms" on
newspaper and let dry. If the result is too soft - cumbly - crush them up and
add more gum. Too hard, crush them up and add more enamel. Use on
sandblasted cold glass to look like
pastels after firing, use on hot glass to look like crayons. Again, this is
Walter Lieberman's recipe for what he trademarked as Glastels.
Although Henry doesn't specifically say it, I assume you could roll the soft
putty
in a piece of newspaper to give a wrapper and a grip like pastels have.
Thanks for the reference,
"John R. Cumbow/Melanie Whittaker" wrote:
> This is in reply to Mike Firth about which page in
>
> Halem's book you'll find Lieberman's GLASTELS(tm).
>
> I've got the 1994 2nd edition and it's on page 59 with
>
> Sandblast Resist, Jack Wax, and Mold Separator.
>
> John Cumbow
>
> http://www.greatnorthern.net/~cumbow/
>
> *** Posted from RemarQ - http://www.remarq.com - Discussions Start Here (tm) ***
If anyone is interested in the in the Glasstels they can email me at
hha...@glassnotes.com and I'll send it to them.
Henry
Clifford
Jim Rush wrote in message <366941c7...@news.primenet.com>...
If you are going to use powder,
>remember that breathing in glass powder is harmful. I use a powder box
>which keeps me from breathing in the powder.
>
can you describe a powder box?
Evacuation booth/chamber.....dust hood......box with 5 sides and a fan
leading out....the best would have a filter instead of just a hose going
into the nieghbors yard.
>
>
>
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Clifford
Terry Ow-Wing wrote in message
>
>
>If you are going to use powder,
>>remember that breathing in glass powder is harmful. I use a powder box
>>which keeps me from breathing in the powder.
>>
>
>