"stuck" Grinder Bit
ANNE MULDERS
I am hoping that someone will be able to help. I need to replace the
grinder bit on my Glastar grinder. I cannot, no matter what I do, get
the old bit off. I have tried WD40, brute force, and anything else I can
think of. It was easy to remove the last time I replaced the bit, but
will not budge this time.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Anne
--
San's Aura Custom Stained Glass
http://www.members.home.net/amulders/
mailto:amul...@home.com
ICQ #: 290726
Andrew T
Moonraker
loose. Once you have broken the adhesions loose, it will come back off
rather easily. You could also grip the old bit with some vise-grip pliers
and pry it off. Then put some grease or Vaseline on the shaft before you
install your new bit.
ANNE MULDERS <amul...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3878A5C6...@home.com...
Platypus Art Glass
You could go to your local rent a center and rent a small gear puller.
It will pull off the head without damaging the shaft.
Rather than explain what a gear puller is, if you ask the person at the rent a
center they will be able to get it for you.
Once you see what it is, you will understand how it will work.
Free your mind and your glass will follow.
Paul E. Mullen Jr.
Artist-Craftsman
Platypus Art Glass
nietz...@hotmail.com
plat...@aol.com
Wolfebas
the bench. At this point all the weight of the grinder will be on the friction
between the bit and the shaft. Then carefully, using a nail, punch, or nail
set to get the force all on the top end of the shaft, tap firmly down on the
end of the shaft with a hammer. The WD40 you've been using should help also.
Good Luck!
John Bassett
John and Christina
Bob Duchesneau
Mailing it to Glastar was a good suggestion. First, you could take it into a
stained glass shop. Many will have a small gear puller just for this purpose
and can quickly solve the problem. I got mine at Tool Surplus for US$2.98.
Beating on the end of the shaft can not bode well for the motor bearings.
Bob in 92026
Sam Gaylord
As a tip, I'd suggest taking the grinding head off of the shaft every week
or two, depending on how often you use it, or better yet, leave it off,
except when you use it. This will prevent it from "freezing" on the
shaft. Also if you don't know it, this is a standard practice for soldering
irons, in that you should remove the tip regularily. Or else the oxide
builds up from the heating/cooling cycles, and after a while you can't
get the tip out.
samg
a.k.a Sam Gaylord (sa...@cs.itc.hp.com)
jf...@my-deja.com
puppy then yank.
Dave
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Octgal
CLR? AND, just brute force!
K. Midgley
stop the problem is to coat the two contacting surfaces
with some stuff you can get at the auto supply centre
called Never Seize. Do this before the components that are
exposed to water and get wet and stuck. The stuff works
wonders on those tiny set screws when you have to get them
out months later. It is a copper compound. I don't know
if I would recommend it for soldering irons.
* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is Beautiful
Dingleweb
that goes into the barrel.
Colin Croak
K. Midgley wrote in message <1a5a307d...@usw-ex0109-066.remarq.com>...
