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Steve B
Oct 19, 2011, 7:15:46 PM10/19/11
to
I got three Cornies for free. They are Coca-Cola, hence pin types. They
are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth it to
replace them with ball types? What kind do you have, and if you have pins,
are they very tough to work with?
Steve
are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth it to
replace them with ball types? What kind do you have, and if you have pins,
are they very tough to work with?
Steve
Tony V
Oct 20, 2011, 11:23:20 PM10/20/11
to
On 10/19/2011 7:15 PM, Steve B wrote:
> I got three Cornies for free. They are Coca-Cola, hence pin types. They
> are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth it to
> replace them with ball types?
If you mean replacing the pin lock fittings on the keg with ball lock
> I got three Cornies for free. They are Coca-Cola, hence pin types. They
> are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth it to
> replace them with ball types?
fittings, then no, you can't as the threads are different.
> What kind do you have, and if you have pins,
> are they very tough to work with?
that the pin lock kegs and fitting are slightly taller than the ball
lock kegs - an issue if height is a problem. FWIW, I'm a big fan of
stainless steel disconnects - more expensive but are a pleasure to use.
Tony
http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/RIMS
Steve B
Oct 21, 2011, 11:29:24 AM10/21/11
to
"Tony V" <verh...@cRoEmMcOaVsEt.net> wrote in message
news:PA5oq.4241$a23....@newsfe18.iad...
has an "adapter" post available. It would be a very simple matter to have
these made by a company that would sell a lot of them. They're $10 each,
and right now, I'd buy six if I could find them. The pins are just too hard
to use, but I may have to live with them for now.
Steve
Dan Logcher
Oct 21, 2011, 1:22:43 PM10/21/11
to
Tony V wrote:
> On 10/19/2011 7:15 PM, Steve B wrote:
>
>> I got three Cornies for free. They are Coca-Cola, hence pin types. They
>> are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth
>> it to
>> replace them with ball types?
>
>
> If you mean replacing the pin lock fittings on the keg with ball lock
> fittings, then no, you can't as the threads are different.
That's not accurate. I have standard ball-lock sized kegs with pin-lock
> On 10/19/2011 7:15 PM, Steve B wrote:
>
>> I got three Cornies for free. They are Coca-Cola, hence pin types. They
>> are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth
>> it to
>> replace them with ball types?
>
>
> If you mean replacing the pin lock fittings on the keg with ball lock
> fittings, then no, you can't as the threads are different.
fittings, so you can swap fittings for some kegs. There appears to be two
types of pin-lock fittings, Cornelius and Firestone-like. The Cornelius
pin-locks easily swap for ball-lock.. I haven't tried the other type yet.
--
Dan
Dan Logcher
Oct 21, 2011, 1:24:57 PM10/21/11
to
Shop around, but here's one http://www.midwestsupplies.com/pin-lock-ratchet-socket.html
--
Dan
Steve B
Oct 21, 2011, 3:07:04 PM10/21/11
to
"Dan Logcher" <dlogche...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:4ea1aae9$0$9821$b45e...@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu...
pin keg use a ball connector. I think they're made, just have to find them.
I have some e mails out to suppliers, thought some here may be
knowledgeable.
BTW, only one keg had tight fittings, the others came off easily with the
wrench. On the hard one, I used the wrench and a rubber mallet, and it
loosened on the first strike. Just get it all lined up before hitting. I
have a lot of machine working stuff, and I can slot a regular deep socket
rather than pay the price they want for one socket. Sockets are fifty cents
apiec at my local hock shop.
Steve
Dan Logcher
Oct 22, 2011, 10:38:41 AM10/22/11
to
ball-lock very easily. Are they tall and thin, or short and fat? Is there a
brand name on the side?
--
Dan
Steve B
Oct 22, 2011, 7:39:19 PM10/22/11
to
news:4ea2d573$0$17825$b45e...@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu...
The posts are made into the top of the can. The screw on posts is what I'm
talking about. I want to use all ball type connectors to get away from the
pin types because it seems harder to operate the pin types. I did go out
last evening, and take everything completely apart, including the poppett,
because one would not work at all, and it seems they have some residual
syrup in them from their soda days. Maybe they would be okay if I just took
everything off, cleaned it thoroughly in hot water, put in new o rings and
gaskets. Just the way you kind of have to get in there with your fingertips
that makes it hard sometimes because of a thumb I broke a long time ago, and
wrist problems from too many years of hard use, and hands the same. The set
of ball fasteners I have on one of the Cornies works soooo much easier.
They are made by Hansen Mfg. Co, Cleveland Ohio. Part # 4723C on the two
post, and 4723C on the three post. One of the three tanks has P before the
part number, but just on one post, not both. The thread outside diameter is
close to 9/16", and the top of the post is pretty close to 9/16, too. They
are 1 1/8" all, so I'd call that fat in relationship to some I have seen
that are taller and tapered.
If I could get a post that looks like mine, but is a ball type, might I
ass-u-me that it would be a "C" post? Keg Connection advertises retrofitted
Cornies that use ball type valves, and that they have been converted from
pin types. Must be some obvious reason or preference for ball type
fasteners.
I made right at $250 today at my yard sale, so am ready to send off for some
"stuff", and get brewing and kegging.
From what I have provided, what do you think I need to order? Apparently
Keg Connection is switching the post connectors, and cleaning and rehabbing
Cornies, and selling them. The valves must be made somewhere.
I'll google Hansen and see what they say.
Thanks. I'm a newbie, and know I may ask some basic questions, but I would
rather do that than send stuff back and forth, and just get things screwed
up.
BTW, I did brew a batch of porter, which I bottled. It came out nice, I do
have to say. But after reading of single fermenting, then kegging, and the
simplicity of it all over bottling, and after snagging keg refrigerator with
dispensing head for $10, I just have to go with kegging.
I'm ready to start in earnest now the temps here have gone down to the point
where I can comfortably brew in my man cave seagoing containers.
This stuff isn't rocket science, but there IS a lot to it.
This keg post thing will be my last major hurdle.
Steve
talking about. I want to use all ball type connectors to get away from the
pin types because it seems harder to operate the pin types. I did go out
last evening, and take everything completely apart, including the poppett,
because one would not work at all, and it seems they have some residual
syrup in them from their soda days. Maybe they would be okay if I just took
everything off, cleaned it thoroughly in hot water, put in new o rings and
gaskets. Just the way you kind of have to get in there with your fingertips
that makes it hard sometimes because of a thumb I broke a long time ago, and
wrist problems from too many years of hard use, and hands the same. The set
of ball fasteners I have on one of the Cornies works soooo much easier.
They are made by Hansen Mfg. Co, Cleveland Ohio. Part # 4723C on the two
post, and 4723C on the three post. One of the three tanks has P before the
part number, but just on one post, not both. The thread outside diameter is
close to 9/16", and the top of the post is pretty close to 9/16, too. They
are 1 1/8" all, so I'd call that fat in relationship to some I have seen
that are taller and tapered.
If I could get a post that looks like mine, but is a ball type, might I
ass-u-me that it would be a "C" post? Keg Connection advertises retrofitted
Cornies that use ball type valves, and that they have been converted from
pin types. Must be some obvious reason or preference for ball type
fasteners.
I made right at $250 today at my yard sale, so am ready to send off for some
"stuff", and get brewing and kegging.
From what I have provided, what do you think I need to order? Apparently
Keg Connection is switching the post connectors, and cleaning and rehabbing
Cornies, and selling them. The valves must be made somewhere.
I'll google Hansen and see what they say.
Thanks. I'm a newbie, and know I may ask some basic questions, but I would
rather do that than send stuff back and forth, and just get things screwed
up.
BTW, I did brew a batch of porter, which I bottled. It came out nice, I do
have to say. But after reading of single fermenting, then kegging, and the
simplicity of it all over bottling, and after snagging keg refrigerator with
dispensing head for $10, I just have to go with kegging.
I'm ready to start in earnest now the temps here have gone down to the point
where I can comfortably brew in my man cave seagoing containers.
This stuff isn't rocket science, but there IS a lot to it.
This keg post thing will be my last major hurdle.
Steve
Bob F
Oct 23, 2011, 11:55:20 PM10/23/11
to
and you can't mix them up and jam the wrong one on.
Steve B
Oct 24, 2011, 12:35:23 PM10/24/11
to
"Bob F" <bobn...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j82nj9$s2e$1...@dont-email.me...
a lot. I have some posts coming for my kegs. If they work, great. I have
all the same posts. If they don't, I'll return them and learn to cope with
the pin types. I must admit that after putting them all in hot water and
cleaning them, they work a lot easier. ................... duh
................
Steve
Bob F
Oct 24, 2011, 12:47:57 PM10/24/11
to
Steve B wrote:
>> I don't understand this. My pin locks are way easier to use than my
>> ball locks, and you can't mix them up and jam the wrong one on.
>
> I've come down to this after talking with a guy at Midwest who seems
> to know a lot. I have some posts coming for my kegs. If they work,
> great. I have all the same posts. If they don't, I'll return them
> and learn to cope with the pin types. I must admit that after
> putting them all in hot water and cleaning them, they work a lot
> easier. ................... duh ................
>
Another thing about pin locks, at least the ones I have. The poppets on the pin
>> I don't understand this. My pin locks are way easier to use than my
>> ball locks, and you can't mix them up and jam the wrong one on.
>
> I've come down to this after talking with a guy at Midwest who seems
> to know a lot. I have some posts coming for my kegs. If they work,
> great. I have all the same posts. If they don't, I'll return them
> and learn to cope with the pin types. I must admit that after
> putting them all in hot water and cleaning them, they work a lot
> easier. ................... duh ................
>
lock kegs use standard o-rings as seals, which are easily replaceable.
Tony V
Oct 24, 2011, 4:35:31 PM10/24/11
to
> I don't understand this. My pin locks are way easier to use than my ball locks,
> and you can't mix them up and jam the wrong one on.
ball lock fitting (and vice versa) and it is a real pain to get it off
again. Don't ask me how I know. :-) However, this applies only to the
plastic disconnects. As a test, I tried it with my SS disconnects and
could not mix them up. Maybe with a sledge hammer. :-)
Tony
barn...@ureach.com
Oct 24, 2011, 11:48:49 PM10/24/11
to
I've never seen stainless steel keg disconnects. who sells them?
R
R
Scott
Oct 25, 2011, 6:21:58 AM10/25/11
to
On 10-25-2011 03:48, barn...@ureach.com wrote:
> I've never seen stainless steel keg disconnects. who sells them?
>
> R
For ball lock kegs:
> I've never seen stainless steel keg disconnects. who sells them?
>
> R
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/kegging/kegs-accessories/ball-lock-keg-accessories.html
I don't see them for the pin lock kegs.
barn...@ureach.com
Oct 26, 2011, 8:29:13 PM10/26/11
to
wow, pricy. I will stick to plastic disconnects. I've been using the
same plastic ones for 10 yrs and no problems, now that I know the
difference between the in and out connects
same plastic ones for 10 yrs and no problems, now that I know the
difference between the in and out connects
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