FAlling on Skyhooks
Stuart Littlefair
> In article <8p0pes$p3u$1...@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk>, Dangerous
> <da...@crazedanddazed.com> writes
> >Hi,
> >I want to lead a route in the peak that is a fairly bold E6 and the low
> >protection consists of a skyhook in a pocket (gritstone)
>
> >I intend to get a mate to hold it under tension with a rope while I climb
> >above it but to place it on the lead.
>
> What you have to watch out for
> is the 'bounce' when released from tension which can pop them off the
> placement. Your mate will have to hold it quite steadily.
Dave, if the placement is firm, it's best to tie them down with static cord
rather than getting a friend to hold them. You can even do this on lead if
there's an available lower anchor (and you can be arsed).
If the placement isn't firm enough to do this, then they probably aren't
going to help much...
--
Stuart Littlefair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dept. of Physics & Astronomy, Univ. of Sheffield, Sheffield, S3 7RH.
email:php9...@sheffield.ac.uk phone: +44 114 2223504
http://www.shef.ac.uk/~phys/people/slittlefair
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rachel Nicolson
>
> Hi,
> I want to lead a route in the peak that is a fairly bold E6 and the low
> protection consists of a skyhook in a pocket (gritstone)
Hi Dave,
Any chance of placing a Tri-Cam in the pocket?
Rachel
Bob Ternes
#Dangerous wrote:
#>
#> Hi,
#> I want to lead a route in the peak that is a fairly bold E6 and the low
#> protection consists of a skyhook in a pocket (gritstone)
#
#Hi Dave,
#
#Any chance of placing a Tri-Cam in the pocket?
#
#Rachel
True. Tri-cams are cool. You might even look into filing down the 0.5 size for
extra stuffability (this is the trick '0.3' size).
Also, duct tape is advisable for the hook hold-down. I don't know if
quaint yank aphorisms like 'Duct it or fuck it' make it across the pond, but
the grey adhesive cure all is legend over here for quick fixes, even those
including hooks on walls...
Bob
andyk
The strongest hooks are Fish hooks (big) and Leeper hooks
(pionted, flat and cam hook used in conventioinal hook mode
instead of cam mode)- thies will go at about 1000lds (the
grit will go at less then this). A filed BD grappling hook
(taking of some of it's reach to improve it's strength)
lies somewhere between the two.
Sling whetever you use with 5mm perlon - not 10mm tape.
Use the thinnest rope you can (8mm or 8.5mm) and use a
ripper sling.
Gaffer tape/blue tac or super glue can all work.
Good luck!
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Zippo
"Dangerous" <da...@crazedanddazed.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> I want to lead a route in the peak that is a fairly bold E6 and the
low
> how safe are they?
> do they ever cleave the rock? busting the placement?
> The placement appears quite good on sound rock, etc
> I intend to get a mate to hold it under tension with a rope while I
> climb above it but to place it on the lead.
> DAve LAw
Better you than me. Sane climbers don't normally use hooks as pro.
I have heard that leeper cam hooks can be pretty solid. I guess it
depends.... is the hook over a solid flake? Is the potential fall short?
Will the hook failing result in a ground fall.
Zippo
ps. How do you expect to climb with such huge balls?
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Gareth
"Dangerous" <da...@crazedanddazed.com> wrote in message
news:8p0pes$p3u$1...@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
> Hi,
> I want to lead a route in the peak that is a fairly bold E6 and the low
> protection consists of a skyhook in a pocket (gritstone)
> Does anyone have experience of falling onto skyhooks?
> how safe are they?
> do they ever cleave the rock? busting the placement?
> The placement appears quite good on sound rock, etc
> I intend to get a mate to hold it under tension with a rope while I climb
> above it but to place it on the lead.
> Thanks
> DAve LAw
> posted on uk.rec.climbing and rec.climbing
>
> --
> visit my website
> http://www.dangeroussite.freeserve.co.uk
>
>
jeffe...@my-deja.com
> Zippo
>
> ps. How do you expect to climb with such huge balls?
SOP is slung over the shoulder but if exceptionally massive, safety
dictates clipping them to your harness biner to avoid an inversion...
Simon Caldwell
<gs.s...@cableinet.co.uk> wrote:
>What's the route???
>
The means of getting from the bottom of the crag to the top, usually.
HTH
Simon
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Carol Haynes
<jeffe...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8p3skh$kib$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Mad Dog
>I've taken a fall or two onto skyhooks, though there has usually been a
>good piece of gear a few feet lower.
Unfortunately, I've taken falls onto hooks with nothing but lousy pro in
rotten rock below the hook, above the talus. More gray hair and a tighter
pucker resulted last time. Oh, and that was when the top hook blew on a
seemingly solid edge, caught on daisy by the seemingly lousy, canted hook 4'
below.
Don't count on similar luck but if you do, please will any wealth to me.
Hooks ain't bomber pro.
Jon Read
answering for him.
Zippo wrote:
> Better you than me. Sane climbers don't normally use hooks as pro.
> I have heard that leeper cam hooks can be pretty solid. I guess it
> depends.... is the hook over a solid flake?
No
> Is the potential fall short?
Yes, but ...
> Will the hook failing result in a ground fall.
Yes. Nasty blocky landing.
Dave, I'll lend you my Rock'n'Roller if you want mate!
Jon.
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Gareth Stott
What wit.
Gareth
"Simon Caldwell" <simon.c...@bigfoot.comNOSPAMPLEASE> wrote in message
news:vh1brs4geovop08k7...@4ax.com...
Dangerous
Thanks to all for the replys. Some good advice. And the direct mail too.
The potential fall is short and it is for reassurance more than anything.
Apparently BD skyhooks open up at 500LBs force. I'll do some calcs. However
my home made copied black diamond camelot 5 copy snapped on me on Goliath
and I fell to the ground landing on my feet.
Apparently you shouldnt weld high carbon steel as it goes martensitic(ie
brittle)!! Enhanced the so called dangerous reputation no end!!!
I think I'll check out Jon's rock and rollers whatever they are??
Re Tricam, Yes they are good thanks for the thought but this isn't the
right placement for them.
I'll let you know when I get up it what route it is Jons website provides
all the clues if you are still curious
Large balls are handy because they keep the centre of gravity into the rock
but then again most trad climbers in the uk have to work on this side of the
game even on much lower grade stuff.
Thanks all
DAvid
>
>
Simon Caldwell
<gs.s...@cableinet.co.uk> wrote:
>deary me.
>
>What wit.
>
Sorry.
S.
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Now with added Skye Pages!
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Kelly Rich
> Sling whetever you use with 5mm perlon - not 10mm tape.
> Use the thinnest rope you can (8mm or 8.5mm)
Why; more dynamic loading?
:- k
Adrian Baugh
>In article <8p0pes$p3u$1...@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk>, Dangerous
>
>protection are Crack'n'ups which are/were a bit of thin metal shaped
>like an anchor. Also nut extractors which were used in a similar manner
>to a skyhook. In this instance two nut extractors were the only
>protection available on the crux of the climb!
ISTR the pro for one of the hard bits on "...Dervish" used to be a nut
key; since the crack's opened up a bit small wires can be used these days.
Adrian.