How do you know if you are ready to lead Reeds Pinnacle Direct?
Adam S.
I've been searching on the web and in the group for TR's and beta etc
for the Reed Pinnacle Direct route (aka Reeds, Reed's, etc.). Lots of
good gear lists, beta (Karl says "Both the wide sections of Reeds have
killer inside edges on the left side of the crack after maybe one wide
move."), some of which I excerpt below (hope that's ok - it's all from
google).
Several posters call it "beautiful" or a classic or more scarily "a
test piece." Roper's guide calls it a "very attractive climb" and
says it "has become obligatory for hard men."
There weren't as many TR's as I would have expected and then again of
those that called it sweet or burly or sustained, I don't know their
skill levels compared to mine so have no idea if it would be hard or
not.
So what am I asking? Both for more info about the climb (TR like or
moves or I don't know) and "How does one know when one is ready to
lead a climb?" While some might suggest to follow on it first, if I
want to climb it this weekend, then I'll have to lead the 1st 2
pitches myself. But I don't know if I can handle it. Last weekend I
looked at Amazing Face in Diablo and it looked steep and thin, once on
the rock I realized it was pretty easy. So I can look at the Direct
route, but will only truly know it by climbing it and I guess if I
have to bail so be it.
But my general curiosity is how one knows when one is ready for a
particular route. I guess I am not yet that good at "reading" a route
onsite and then again, what about pitches up and beyond my on the
ground viewing? More TR's would help but again what others might find
easy might stymy me and vice-versa.
More specific to this weekend, what cracks could I lead in preparation
for this climb? I've lead some 5.8/5.9/5.10 "cracks" like Jamcrack,
Peruvian Flake, Royal Perogative, South Crack, West Crack,
Selaginella, Chouinard's Crack/Harry Daley - but as you can see it's
not much and it is not to say they were mere "breezes."
Clearly I know not to just jump on a 5.11. And I know I can climb
some 5.8 cracks. But what would be a generalized approach for
selecting new climbs, especially as one increases the difficulty.
Mainly I am interested Yosemite Valley,Tuolumne, and Tahoe.
My initial ideas have been:
1. of course web/usenet for beta, gear lists and TR's
2. follow or TR when an option (though onsiting is more challenging so
maybe this would be "off" when possible). And for this climb it's
not an option.
3. work a circuit of similar climbs that lead up in difficulty to the
goal.
4. ??
Anyhow any discussion/opinions/flames you would care to profer on
either specifically on Reed Pinnacle Direct or generally on "knowing"
would be appreciated. Below are some snippets from google (hope that
is not a netiquette violation as I didn't grab the urls or authors).
thanks,
Adam
Here are some snippets from rec.climbing:
>Reed's sucks up medium NUTS way easier than cams. You may want a #3 and
>#4 camalot to protect wide stuff up higher. The first pitch likes a .75
>camalot, then a #1, then a #2 then a #3
>
>Lots of medium pieces, plus something big for near the top of the second
>pitch. Pace yourself.
>
>The second pitch takes good hexes and nuts, also. I think the last
>pitych was well protected also, a nice little crack in the back with
>some pins, and then a few hard OW moves. I think the first pitch was
>tight hands for a long ways, like #1,#2 Camalot size, so you probably
>want doubles of that size.
>
>have a purple camelot
>
>It is a beautful climb. The best beta I can give is that it takes hexes
>and
>nuts beautifully for most of the climb. Better than cams, I think. But,
>its gets pretty wide at the top - bring a #4 and save it for the end.
>it's a beautiful, CLASSIC route.
>My topo says it's 3 pitches. It used to be the case that most parties
>do only the first two -- a harder-than-expected first pitch (be careful,
>a friend of mine fell on it and BROKE BOTH HIS FEET!) and a
>major pump-fest second pitch. Maybe going all the way is more
>popular now. Bring plenty of big gear -- this upper pitch eats up #3-4
>friends and equivalent. And make sure you have your wheaties that morning;
>you'll need it.
>
>
>I didn't find the 2nd pitch to be the pumpathon many describe, but I have
>large hands which locked in tight everywhere. Note: Save a big cam (#3)
>(or hex) or 2 for the very end of the 2nd pitch. It gets a bit wide
>there.
>I burned everything big (needlessly) before I got there and had to finish
>the route by a weird traverse left to a spot where I could place smaller
>gear, and then up and back right, so as to avoid a possible large fall.
>Never did the third pitch, but I suspect most people don't, at least most
>sane people ;-).
>Direct is 5.9 or 10a, but is substatially harder that many 11a one move wonders you
>might encounter at a local crag, unless endurance is no problem for you
>whatsoever. But in fact, there is no single move on the route that is harder than 9.
>To provide a setting, the second pitch follows a 120' crack with no
>face holds and one ledge at about 100'. I would guess it's dead vertical.
>You move up the first 80 feet on sinker pocketed hand jams, but the crack
>is offset making it difficult to rest, for me at least. At this point
>the crack widens to fist-OW (depending on the size of your hands of
>course)
>for about 15-20 feet until you get to the ledge.
Jason Liebgott
standard 5.9 and with basic crack technique you shouldn't get held up. As
with any climb though, if you don't protect well off the ground - you can
end up with broken feet (as mentioned in your post).
The second pitch is very verticle and sustained 5.8 and 5.9 climbing. What
makes it challenging is that the left foot gets all the jams and ends up
getting pretty tired/sore. Practice getting pro in quickly to save a major
pump, and I'd put the rack on the right side.
Since it's so easy to protect and the rock is perfectly solid, there's no
reason to not lead it. If you run out of steam then you weren't quite ready,
put in pro and shake it out until you can keep going. You'll get to the top.
Have fun...
j.
D a v i d E m r i c h
> Subject: How do you know if you are ready to lead Reeds Pinnacle Direct?
The 3rd pitch? You need cojónes o ovarios grandes.
Actually I want to do it. Not because my cojónes have grown, but because
I haven't looked at it for awhile.
David
David Hill
> particular route. I guess I am not yet that good at "reading" a route
> onsite and then again, what about pitches up and beyond my on the
> ground viewing? More TR's would help but again what others might find
> easy might stymy me and vice-versa.
You never really know...that is part of the fun of climbing!
> More specific to this weekend, what cracks could I lead in preparation
> for this climb? I've lead some 5.8/5.9/5.10 "cracks" like Jamcrack,
> Peruvian Flake, Royal Perogative, South Crack, West Crack,
> Selaginella, Chouinard's Crack/Harry Daley - but as you can see it's
> not much and it is not to say they were mere "breezes."
All of these climbs are cake compared to p.2 of Reed's Direct. P. Flake has
like one thin (but still low-angle) 5.10 move, the rest is easy. Ditto for
Jamcrack, one tricky move to start p.2 and that's it.
There is no single hard move on Reed's. It is just (the 2nd pitch in
particular) super-sustained. It is the same move over and over again, with
no great place to stop and rest. That said, it is super super solid. The
hand jams are unreal.
Dave.
Melissa
p...@post.here (Adam S.) wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I've been searching on the web and in the group for TR's and beta
>etc
>for the Reed Pinnacle Direct route (aka Reeds, Reed's, etc.).
When are you ready for Reeds? Depends on whether or not you must onsight
it to be happy. With an El Cap rack, you can have all the pro that you want
on this one. Route finding isn't a problem as thir route is so warn that
you can find it from the other side of the canyon.
Jason didn't mention the short ow section at the top of p2. All of your
training climbs had thin cruxes. It would worthwhile to pull of a couple
of steep handstacks or armbars unless your hands are enourmous. It's also
good to save a couple fatty pieces if this section will scare you. Never
fear, you can use small pieces in the constrictions between the pods.
This is a great climb whose difficulty comes more from the endurance factor
than from the moves. That said, don't underestimate the endurange factor.
It makes it a great step up from Jamcrack or P. Flake for that reason.
It's kind of like linking up 4 or 5 of the first pitch of jam crack, only
a bit steeper and more sustained on the left side. If you go to the gym,
you can practice doing laps on the hand crack (down climb and up climb).
Melissa
Sammy
will jam the heck out of your left foot. be prepared to jog pro.
i had a much easier time with Lunatic Fringe the 5.10c finger crack around
the corner from Reed's then I did with Reed's Direct.
Bill Zaumen
<fpe...@directvinternet.com> wrote:
> from my experience with the crack you need to be good on wide cracks and you
> will jam the heck out of your left foot. be prepared to jog pro.
Aside from the last 10--15 feet, it isn't really a wide-crack climb:
the crack varies in width a lot and you can find lots of places to
slot your hands in, although it can be a bit of a stretch between
jams.
What makes it strenous is that it leans to the side for so long.
Bill
--
As an anti-spam measure, my email address is only provided in a GIF
file. Please see <http://home.pacbell.net/zaumen/email.gif>.
Chiloe
>
> What makes it strenous is that it leans to the side for so long.
Around a campfire a long time ago someone, it might have been
Birdman, told of his plan for a joke. Reeds' P2 crack, he said,
lies on a detached plate of rock, with a chimney behind it that
is what forms all those great inside holds. While the victim
was innocently leading the outside of the crack, the regular P2,
the jokester would chimney along below him and poke out each
nut from inside the rock. Then high on the route, when the
victim looked down and froze in horror to see all his protection
had vanished, the jokester would tie his shoelaces together and
say "BOO!"
Adam S.
>Since it's so easy to protect and the rock is perfectly solid, there's no
>reason to not lead it. If you run out of steam then you weren't quite ready,
>put in pro and shake it out until you can keep going. You'll get to the top.
>
Thanks Jason and everyone else for some good beta and encouragement.
I knew there was a fourth factor I had thought of this morning but
forgot when I went to type it up: protectable. In tune with an
earlier thread about "do you make the move or not" - if I can protect
it, then I'd definitely try the move. So I am looking forward to
trying many moves with this one. Sounds like endurance will be the
real challenge.
As to the off-width, unless I misread Karl wrong, a few feet up from
each OW section there are actually holds in and to the left so maybe I
won't have to arm-bar or handstack. Only one way to find out for
sure....
As a little-too-late-now aside: I know my training cracks pale beside
this one so I am wondering what intermediate cracks there are, between
Reed's Direct and the easier one-hit wonders I've done so far. Anyhow
hopefully I'll have a positive trip report Monday.
Beyond this climb, I am always curious how you folks decide you can
"move up" a notch on whatever (face, crack, overhanging, whatever).
Since it's so subjective and as one person wrote "You never really
know" - what do you do just jump and bail if necessary? Guess I'm
trying save money by squeezing two threads in one.
thanks,
Adam
Melissa
> As to the off-width, unless I misread Karl wrong, a few feet up from
> each OW section there are actually holds in and to the left so maybe I
> won't have to arm-bar or handstack. Only one way to find out for
> sure....
Granted I don't think I moved out of the crack on p2 for a single
move, but given my recollection of the route, this sounds like a game
plan that might result in leaving (or leapfrogging) a couple $80
camalots. Seriously, it's only 15 feet or so of wide at the top, and
it's really smooth and fun. Just say yes to the crack!
> As a little-too-late-now aside: I know my training cracks pale beside
> this one so I am wondering what intermediate cracks there are, between
> Reed's Direct and the easier one-hit wonders I've done so far. Anyhow
> hopefully I'll have a positive trip report Monday.
Well, if you're doing it this weekend, I doubt any training that you
do in the meantime will do any more than get you in the mood. The
most Reeds-like crack that I've been on around here is the hand crack
at Mission Cliffs. Other Yosemite hand cracks just aren't that
continuous without also having sections that are much harder. The
Grotto is great as well. You'll have to do laps on either of these to
mimic the length of Reeds. Like I suggested before, downclimb as well
as upclimb and you'll keep your burn going.
> What do you do just jump and bail if necessary?
If bailing isn't an option, then there needs to be little or no doubt
about the outcome. Beta from others who know the route and know how
hard I climb is helpful here. On a route like Reeds that's right by
the road with a rap descent and can be easily converted into a nice A0
route, it's worth going for it whenever you feel strong and so
inclined.
Melissa
Crotch Robbins
> Jason didn't mention the short ow section at the top of p2. All of your
> training climbs had thin cruxes. It would worthwhile to pull of a couple
> of steep handstacks or armbars unless your hands are enourmous.
I should add that I was able to pull the top section on fist jams, and
you will too if #3.5 camalot is fists for you.
Crotch
Bill Wright
I love asking this question when someone tells me they climbed Reed's
Pinnacle Direct:
"How did you like the third pitch?"
Invariably they havne't done it. Many don't even realize there is a
third pitch. But where do you think the name "Pinnacle" came from? The
third pitch is 10a and leads to the top of this pinnacle. It is of a
much different character than the first two pitches and is usually
ignored because it is scary and awkward climbing. It starts with a
massively runout, really wide 5.8 chimney and then pinches down to
nothing as you have to exit out. If you like this pitch, then you
should get on the Left Side of Reeds. This is 10a as well, but is PURE
offwidth technique on the second pitch. The first pitch is PURE
chimney technique - part squeeze and part back/feet. The third pitch
isn't too bad, but does involve one very funky 5.9 more. The first two
pitches are just absolutely text book examples of chimney and offwidth
technique. Highly recommended if you enjoy this sort of thing, or at
least want to learn it.
Bill
Bill Folk
snip
> third pitch is 10a and leads to the top of this pinnacle. It is of a
> much different character than the first two pitches and is usually
> ignored because it is scary and awkward climbing. It starts with a
> massively runout, really wide 5.8 chimney and then pinches down to
> nothing as you have to exit out.
Have to disagree with "massively runout". I got several good nuts and
a couple of good aliens getting up to the fixed pins. The OW section
protects fine with a #4 camalot. Great pitch, not a big deal to lead.
> If you like this pitch, then you
> should get on the Left Side of Reeds. This is 10a as well, but is PURE
> offwidth technique on the second pitch.
Didn't lead this pitch, but none of us used "PURE offwidth technique".
I found it easier to climb a little out of the crack using more
flare/chimney style. I think Tom led it that way too. YMMV. Another
classic for sure.
Bill
Bill Zaumen
<ich...@hotmail.com> wrote:
I heard something like that too. The version I heard had someone
climb up the chimney and grab the climber's hand when he put it in
the crack.
Andy Gale
Bill Zaumen wrote:
> I heard something like that too. The version I heard had someone
> climb up the chimney and grab the climber's hand when he put it in
> the crack.
Damn! That would be a rush! Is it actually possible to get inside that
chimney?
Andy
Karl Baba
You arrive at the little ledge before the last wide bit and wait for
your heart to slow down a bit. Take a #4 camalot and push it up as high
in the crack as you can, then either:
1. Stem between the crack and a little ramp on the right as high as you
can, push the cam up, then pull yourself over and do one or two OW
moves until you can reach the inside left cheater edge
Or
2. Step left and make a balancy move to the wuss variation, easy
lieback
PEace
karl
In article <l09cru4tse7980ktj...@4ax.com>, Adam S.
Bill Zaumen
I think so, although it looks like in narrows as you go up, so your
peak altitude may vary. Not that I ever tried.
Bill
Chiloe
> Chiloe <ich...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Around a campfire a long time ago someone, it might have been
> > Birdman, told of his plan for a joke. Reeds' P2 crack, he said,
> > lies on a detached plate of rock, with a chimney behind it that
> > is what forms all those great inside holds. While the victim
> > was innocently leading the outside of the crack, the regular P2,
> > the jokester would chimney along below him and poke out each
> > nut from inside the rock. Then high on the route, when the
> > victim looked down and froze in horror to see all his protection
> > had vanished, the jokester would tie his shoelaces together and
> > say "BOO!"
>
> I heard something like that too. The version I heard had someone
> climb up the chimney and grab the climber's hand when he put it in
> the crack.
That has less of a Halloween flavor than my version. But they both
make good stories to have in mind when you lead it.