Chouinard/Becky on S. Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Canada, in a day, from the hut (but
within my abilities, that is the question??? Only ONE way to find out!).
Lk
Anybody else??
Rules- the climb must be within your abilities at this moment.
For me, it would be the Nose. El Cap.
This could be a really revealing and interesting thread. What route would
be most desired? Cast your vote. Mountian Dogs, Sport Dogs, Trad Dogs,
Wall Dogs. etc. etc.
Jeff
Or what route do you most desire?
Freneysie Pascale
What's that ? :-)
Tuan.
--
Quang-Tuan LUONG, Computer scientist at SRI, +1(415)859-5138
333 Ravenswood av. room EK231, Menlo Park, CA 94025-3493, USA
lu...@ai.sri.com http://robotics.eecs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/
What? Are we (the news group) nuking Mt. Everest again? (the how much
would it take? physics thread)
>Rules- the climb must be within your abilities at this moment.
>For me, it would be the Nose. El Cap.
Lotus Flower Tower.
But not at least for two years (and even conditional at that).
It was years ago when I first met Foto Frost that this route became
interesting. Robson also looks nice, but I've spent too much time
walking in under clear weather only to wait in the rain.
>This could be a really revealing and interesting thread. What route would
>be most desired? Cast your vote. Mountain Dogs, Sport Dogs, Trad Dogs,
>Wall Dogs. etc. etc.
Well, if beggars' dreams came true, they would all ride.
>Or what route do you most desire?
Hard to say about other climbs, so much rock and ice and so little time.
There's some interesting unclimbed rock in Pakistan and Afganistan.
There are probably also some interesting pieces of rock in the
Trans-Antarctic range which look interesting. But those are distant views.
Mike
> If you could only climb one more route, before a global thermonuclear
> war destroyed the earth, what would you climb?
Salbitschijen Westgrat. (UIAA 6+/A0 or 7+)
(Urner Alpen for all those not in the know ;-)
U.
--
Urs Langenegger Fight gravity - climb a rock or dive
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Institute for Particle Physics Swiss Federal Institute of Technology
8093 Zurich +41 1 633 2029 ur...@particle.phys.ethz.ch
Well, I guess the climb would have to be really really good!
Lets see here. I definitly would not consider any climb published
in a major book or magazine. Riding other people's dreams is too
easy, too lazy, too canned. Ever notice how those climbs are
crowded in logarithmic proportion to how much media attention they
get and how much beta is available?
Hmmmm.
I guess it would have to be really really challanging in all
aspects for me.
Baffin? Yosemite? maybe the Tetons or the Canadian Rockies....
Hmmmm.
A certain worthy climb comes to mind. It is rated 5.9+, and
pretty sustained....all 60 feet of it. It is the Bulge at
Taylor's Falls here in Minnesota. I remember back when I couldn't
climb the thing. I also remeber leading it for the first time.
Soon after I headed west. Later on I learned to aid climb on it,
and also headed west. Other sunny afternoons come to mind,
teaching old girlfriends how to climb...daydreaming in the shade
at the base.
--
Nathanial Beckwith
http://www.itlabs.umn.edu/~beck0238/
>If you could only climb one more route, before a global thermonuclear
>war destroyed the earth, what would you climb?
>
>For me, it would be the Nose. El Cap.
Are you assuming that the war would wait till you topped out? Hmmm... I
would pick an A5+ aid line on some 4000+ foot wall! At least a day per
pitch would sure buy a little more time, and who cares if you zippered all
your gear and fell to your death? I'd rather die that way than in a
nuclear war.
Wake up, have breakfast, scope the route, count your 'biners, read a book,
have lunch, sort gear, finally place a piece, rap to a ledge, have dinner,
go to sleep and start again in the morning! You could do the first
multi-year ascent of the Nose! It sure would piss off the generals.
Chris Weaver
That is definitely one of the several that I would want to do before
Armagedon. Others would include:
- some of the cliffs on the north shore of Superior (sea kayak access!)
- call me sentimental, but the Nose is a must
- Steck-Salathe
- Spiderman at Bon Echo, Ontario(I doubt that this one has seen a second
ascent, and it's not within my ability right now)
- although it's not really a climb per se, I'd like to retrace the route
taken by the survivors of the crash in the Andes ('Alive') to get out
- Aconcagua
- a passel of routes at Lion's Head
- Frankenhooker (ice) at Bear Lake, Ontario
- VMC Direct (free version)
I could go on for a long time....
I wonder if nuclear winter would improve the #@$%! variable ice conditions
we keep on getting here in Ontario. I was out on Sunday and it was about
-20C (-4F), just a few days later it was well above freezing (and it still
is).
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Peter Spindloe pbsp...@systems.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Lotus Flower Tower
Primrose Dihedrals
Astroman
Yellow Wall
Romantic Warrior
Salathe Wall
Cassin Ridge
Scenic Cruise
N. Face Robson
Bob
Well, if my partner would lead the crux pitch, it would be the 5.10+
East Ridge route on the Maiden here in Boulder. I've always wanted to
do that climb, 5 pitches right up the ridge -- and then that awesome
free rappel, 115 feet to the Crow's Nest.
Yeah, that's not a "prize" route, but it's one I can do (Naked Edge? Hah!)
and it's one I'd enjoy doing. I mean, technically, the Casual Route on
the Diamond is "within my abilities at this moment", but I don't think
I'll enjoy it much until I get a bit better and faster. It's on my
"someday" list. On the other hand the East Ridge of the Maiden has been
on may "this summer" list for the last 2 years...
Of course there are so many possibilities in other states and other
countries, routes I don't even know about yet. Damn, we're just going
to have to put off that global thermonuclear war for a while.
--
/\ Backcountry skiing is for anarchists and coyote angels. Your feet
\_][ get cold and no one admires your new outfit. [C. L. Rawlins]
\__Ilana Stern | il...@ncar.ucar.edu | http://www.ucar.edu/dss/ilana.html
>If you could only climb one more route, before a global thermonuclear
>war destroyed the earth, what would you climb?
I'd like to solo the Northwest Aspect of the Southeast Buttress of K2. Then
I could tease the shit out of Team Softbody and Wuss would be jealous.
>Mountian Dogs, Sport Dogs, Trad Dogs, Wall Dogs. etc. etc.
And Mad Dogs. Actually, I'd be happy to get all the way up the Casual
Route. If I ever have to rap 90% of the East Face of Long's again, I'm
gonna puke.
Well, since I'm dreaming, I'd have my gear and a couple of cases of Pete's
Wicked dropped at a select location in a remote area of the Sierra's and climb some
of the lines on the remote peaks! Then I'd sit back with my Pete's and watch the
fireworks...
I'd find a route which would take a Loooooong time to finish
climbing...and climb VERY slowly...but if you mean what climb would I do for
enjoyment, I'd have to say Astroman. I've never done it, and I couldn't free a
lot of it, but of course if it was my last climb I would be rather motivated to
try pretty much anything. Of the routes that I've done, I'd go with "Cat
Burgular" on the Brazos Ridge. 12 pitches, decent rock, fun climbing up to
555555555555.9 or so. Sorry about those extra 5's, but with no delete key, I
can't do much about them. Climb on!
-Walt
Well since so many people are talking about spending
a month or two on a mountain .... if I had the same time ...
I'd spend them climbing every 5.10 in the Gunks.
If I had only minutes .... the one climb I would have to do
would be a free-solo of To Be Or Not To Be 5.12a
(kinda fitting route name, huh? <G>)
for my dream climb that is well outside my abilities ...
it would be Punks In The Gym at Arapiles.
Maybe:
- Chicken of the Sea on Cayman Brac 'cause it is so wild and my sweety
and I put it up and the Brac would be a better than average place to
see it all end....
- The Naked Edge for the 5th? time 'cause it is just so classic and I
enjoy it so much
- Yet another new route on Cayman Brac 'cause it is great down there
and I'm getting addicted to putting up new routes.
- Crack Attack 'cause Indian Creek is beautiful and peaceful and C.A.
is the most fun I've had on a desert route.
Mort
A friend of mine has a good saying about this:
"The best climbs are always the ones you don't think you're capable of doing".
I think that this is quite true - provided you are in fact able to finally
do them! I have always felt the greatest satisfaction from completing
climbs where I thought failure was the most likely outcome. Thus I have
a little trouble with this rule.
The Naked Edge has been a long time goal of mine, but probably ruled out
because it probably isn't within my abilities at the moment, which is why
I have to train intensively for it. ;^)
The Hummingbird Ridge on Logan would probably fit the rules best. Ironically,
I don't think I will ever attempt this climb because the time commitment is
long and most importantly the objective hazards are very high alpine style.
Still, it is a beautiful climb and within by physical (although maybe not
mental!) abilities.
-George
>In article <4gfoc2$k...@gap.cco.caltech.edu> bat...@seismo.gps.caltech.edu
>(Jeff Batten) writes:
>>If you could only climb one more route, before a global thermonuclear
>>war destroyed the earth, what would you climb?
>What? Are we (the news group) nuking Mt. Everest again? (the how much
>would it take? physics thread)
>>Rules- the climb must be within your abilities at this moment.
>
All four faces of Mt. Rushmore. What the hell the worlds going to end.
Spen
My Vote (for one that I havn't climbed yet):
The Scottish (Bob Barton& Allan Fyffe) Pillar on Bhag II in Garwhal
Himalayas (c. 6500mts): 30+ pitches of 5.6-5.8 Rock and 1 pitch of A0 aid
(or 5.9 free), and some mixed climbing to top-out to great views of the
Gangotri valley below.......guess the glissade down should be fun as well!.
My vote (for one that I woulde love to repeat):
Grand Traverse of Mt Kenya (c. 5800mts). Super walk-in in the midst of
tropical flora and fauna, Ascend The SW ridge : 25+ pitches of 5.5-5.7 Rock
on a very exposed and airy ridge, superb bivvy with a view of the Teliki
valley beneath your feet and the Chogoria gorge in front of you. Great view
from the top ; traversing the snow guarding the gateway of the mists and
many exposed abseils to get off Mackinders gendarme on the SE face......
who cares if we get nuked after enjoying such routes !!!
cheers,
Teji
Even Space Shot is a huge woodie for me.
-T.
Nuff sed.
On rock, I'd do any of the shield routes. I'm jes itchin to get up on that
Sierra Granite/Diorite.
Robert "Tall + beautiful. See above" Ternes
rte...@gas.uug.arizona.edu
I'd go back to the regular route on Catherdal Spire,
on a magnificently beautiful Tuolumne day, with
Blanchard...
We always joke about when he's going to ask
me to marry him... (still do, after 12 years together)
Will it be on top of the Regular Route on Half Dome? NOPE!
How 'bout the top of the West Face of El Cap? NOPE!
OK... How 'bout the top of the Zodiac? NOPE!
Could it be at the top of ????
So, the one route we do, where I stand *next* to the
summit block, and he *sits* on it - we have a bagel with
runny cheese... sign the register, do a short rappel -
power the descent, and nearly run back to the bus...
and as soon as we take off our packs, he says:
"Kath, you missed your chance... I was going to ask
you to marry me on the summit of Cathedral...
BUT YOU NEVER GOT THERE!"
...so, I'd go back there with him... and even though there's no
room for both of us on the summit block, I'd sit on his lap...
and when he popped the question... ???
Maybe I'd tell him I have to wash my hair!!!
:-)
Kath
--
Kathy Myers
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Hippies are back, but now we have money!
: Lk
:
: Anybody else??
^^^^^^^^^^^^
yeah, just about everyone will also be on that route.
>If you could only climb one more route, before a global thermonuclear
>war destroyed the earth, what would you climb?
I can't believe it. Almost everybody who has responsed to this
question wants to spend their last climbing days on someone else's
route.
I've got nothing against classics, and there are plenty of
established climbs that I'd love to do (or do again), but if I knew
that my next climb was going to be my last, I'd be packing up my
rockaineering gear and heading off to an unclimbed 2500 ft. granite
face in the mountains not too far from here. I got half a pitch up it
a few years ago and got rained off, but if I knew the world was about
to end I'd be back on it tomorrow.
And if there was still some time left once I was up that,
well, there are a few other unclimbed lines on my list.
D
------------------------------------
David Harris
dha...@mindlink.bc.ca
-------------------------------------
Joe
Hmmm...
Yankee-Kiwi Couloir (Sorrenson/Craddock) on the South face of Hicks.
Or the Original Gunbarrels (Denz) on the same face. It's about time it
got a 2nd ascent, and I've always wanted to do a Denz route, but it
doesn't form up every winter so the war will just have to hold off until
it does.
If you line up for the Hummingbird ridge, I don't think you
will have to wait too long, which actually does not guarantee
that you will get to the top that fast.
Tuan.
--
Quang-Tuan LUONG, Computer scientist at SRI, +1(415)859-5138
333 Ravenswood av. room EK231, Menlo Park, CA 94025-3493, USA
lu...@ai.sri.com http://robotics.eecs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/
In all the responses I've seen to this thread, Nate's was the closest
to what my last climb would be, if I knew of impendinding armageddon:
There is a tree in Perris Hill Park in San Bernardino, California.
about 60 feet high, the moves for the first 15 feet are a barky bear-hug
to a deadpoint branch grab and heel hook. That's the obligatory beta,
which we worked out before the words "beta" and "send-it" existed.
About 50 feet up are branches that lace together beneath you, where
as a young man I would sometimes fall asleep with the birds chirping
and lovers strolling below and the wind whispering through the green
fragrant leaves, sunshine on a face free of any care in the world.
On the last afternoon of the world, I would climb this tree with a loved one,
and sit high in the whispering branches watching the day pass by,
talking of life, sharing in one another's company, perhaps munching
on a chocolate-filled croissant and drinking a beer, as children play
below on the swingset, then watch the slow sunset until the stars blaze
across a sky dappled with dark leaves....
Brutus.
>Maybe I'd tell him I have to wash my hair!!!
Great vision... :)
So, I take it this is Mark Blanchard we're talking about...
Hey hey hey, when is he going to market the silent partner??????
I solo a lot of aid and I just am not too thrilled with the current
market of self belay devices... :/
>Kath
Eric
Why not just ask him to make you one (or make one yourself)?
E.Stefke
>On the last afternoon of the world, I would climb this tree with a loved one,
>and sit high in the whispering branches watching the day pass by,
>talking of life, sharing in one another's company, perhaps munching
>on a chocolate-filled croissant and drinking a beer, as children play
>below on the swingset, then watch the slow sunset until the stars blaze
>across a sky dappled with dark leaves....
This truly gets to the essence of the problem. It is far more
important to be doing your last climb with the right partner than on
any particular mountain or rock or (in Brutus' case) tree.
People are more important than routes.
> All four faces of Mt. Rushmore. What the hell the worlds going to end.
>
>
> Spen
Great Idea!! I bet that could go in one day. just think what it would be
like to climb the nose four times in single day :)
Dave Kennedy
Boise Id.
> If you could only climb one more route, before a
> global thermonuclear war destroyed the earth, what
> would you climb?
You people have no sense of tradition. I always thought that the thing to
do if you *knew* that global thermonuclear war was about to wipe out the
planet was to have wild, uninhibited sex with the nearest vaguely attractive
person.
But if you insist I go climbing, I've always liked the look of Olympus
Mons. Hell, it's such a cute mountain I'd even agree to be still on route
when the bang goes off.
Struan
PS: Can we fit the portaharem with an airlock?
> You people have no sense of tradition. I always thought that the thing to
>do if you *knew* that global thermonuclear war was about to wipe out the
>planet was to have wild, uninhibited sex with the nearest vaguely attractive
>person. (snip)
>PS: Can we fit the portaharem with an airlock?
Now we're getting somewhere. Obviously, the Rabid Inc. standard modus
operandi is required. Thus the wild, uninhibited sex in an airlocked
Portaharem or Alpine Harem is a can-do sitch. However, we feel that for the
last bang before the big boom, one should take the time to select the
ultimate partner. Yes, this is serious business. (Talk to me! I'm a
bidness man!) I keep forgetting that poor Wuss lives up there where the sun
doesn't shine for extended periods of time and thus the more surfacial
qualities such as beauty are less important. He'd never make it in Southern
California.
Mad "Don't forget LOTS of SuzieLube" Dog
But isn't funny .... I haven't seen one reply claiming that someone would
want to clip bolts. What does that tell you about sport routes? Just
about everyone wants to do long routes, true classics, in the mountains.
As for me, I'm still youngish and I have such a huge list of climbs I'd
love to do someday -- I'll probably never get to them all, but it's nice
to dream. I'd probably pick something very remote, like on Baffin Island
or deep in the mountains of Alaska or the Canadian Rockies.... Sigh.
Just being in the mountains, with a good partner or two, would be enough.
-Matt
You edited too much off Jeff's post.
In article <4gutnc$j...@news.lth.se>
Struan Gray <strua...@sljus.lu.se> writes:
> You people have no sense of tradition. I always thought that the thing to
>do if you *knew* that global thermonuclear war was about to wipe out the
>planet was to have wild, uninhibited sex with the nearest vaguely attractive
>person.
I believe Sheridan Anderson's cartoon showing a Robbins-like character
sitting and undressing prior to bedding a woman shows some of the
fanatic climber psychology (this cartoon should be available, reprinted
in several books).
> But if you insist I go climbing, I've always liked the look of Olympus
>Mons. Hell, it's such a cute mountain I'd even agree to be still on route
>when the bang goes off.
This is where you edited too much. Jeff stated that the climb had to be
within your capability. I included, for instance the Transantarctic Range,
and that is within my capability to get there. Now, Mons, just where are
you hiding your flying saucer?
>PS: Can we fit the portaharem with an airlock?
If dreams were wishes, all beggars would ride. 8^)
> Now, Mons, just where are you hiding your flying saucer?
I always thought there was something slightly alien about Struan, after all
no mere human could have such an appetite for beer, pastries and avoiding
training.
"I am Struan of the planet softbody. I come in peace. Take me to your
larder!"
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|o John Davis email:j.d...@chem.canterbury.ac.nz phone:+64-3-3642-421 o|
|o (Depart)mental Programmer,Chemistry Department o|
|o University of Canterbury,Christchurch, New Zealand o|
Pipped to the post there eh.
>Now if the weather were only decent, and in the snow in good condition.....
There's always a good reason not to do it. (Have to wash my hair this
weekend...)
I was amazed that they skied it in September. Extreme descents are nearly
always done in summer, but in Europe at least it's usually June and July.
September is getting way late. Is there something different about Robson
or was that just an unusually snowy summer?
>bbin...@ebmud.com (Brutus of Wyde) wrote:
>>On the last afternoon of the world, I would climb this tree with a loved one,
>>and sit high in the whispering branches watching the day pass by,
>>talking of life, sharing in one another's company, perhaps munching
>>on a chocolate-filled croissant and drinking a beer, as children play
>>below on the swingset, then watch the slow sunset until the stars blaze
>>across a sky dappled with dark leaves....
> This truly gets to the essence of the problem. It is far more
>important to be doing your last climb with the right partner than on
>any particular mountain or rock or (in Brutus' case) tree.
> People are more important than routes.
Amen. One of my memorable climbs from last year was the Becky route on
Liberty Bell, WA. Not because it was particulary difficult (it's only 5.6)
or long (4 pitches, a 1-2 hour hike in) or even because of the setting
(which is great, although it would have been nice to have a few less
people around -- it was crowded) but because I did it with my wife, and for
her it was a challenge, and I enjoyed seeing and helping her do it. The
partner is just as important as the rock, IMHO.
Cheers,
Alistair
--
Alistair Veitch | Email: ave...@cs.ubc.ca | o/\_ "I'd rather
U. of British Columbia | Phone: +1 604 822-9407 | <\ _,\ be climbing"
Vancouver | Fax: +1 604 822-4585 | "> |
Canada | | : |
Jeff
UCLA GANG ROPING AT STONEY THIS WEEKEND. Let's Hope.
Brutus of Wyde- You are going to make a very good wife someday.
QUICK- GET A COPY OF DOWNWARD BOUND BEFORE ITS TO LATE.
Their still may be time.
Jeff
I want to die like my grandfather- With the passengers screaming.
Bob Dole- Dead man walking
>How many nights of uninhibited sex equals a El Cap Solo?
I guess that would depend on how long your Suzie lube holds out.
--
Eric Hirst
er...@u.washington.edu
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~eric/
> How many nights of uninhibited sex equals a El Cap Solo?
Are we talking abraded body parts, dehydration or dizziness?
Or is 'El Cap Solo' a euphemism?
How much do you compartmentalise your life?
Struan
>Strudadude sez:
That's 'Studly Stru with his Mountain Dew' to you young lad.
>[virtues of diff-pump oil deleted]
>Quit giving away my trade secrets, you disrespectful deviant!
Alliteration will get you nowhere. Anyway, the remarkable
properties of diff-pump oil are an open secret. I use it on all my
gear, burn it in my trangia and, since it doesn't evaporate, use it
to mark the middle of my rope. Diff-pump oil, araldite and masking
(duct) tape: the bodger's holy trinity.
Struan
To my knowledge, nobody climbed Robson during this summer: the weather
was just horrendous the whole time. I had planned to do it but bailed.
Not content with failure, however, I returned in September and found
perfect conditions---solid snow all over the face (no blue ice) and clear
blue skies that just wouldn't quit for several weeks. We were successful
and saw their ski tracks on the face. Quite a feat... I'm sure that they
had their eye on the conditions and knew when to go.
-Cheers,
--
Everett Fee
Winnipeg, Manitoba, CANADA
http://portal.mbnet.mb.ca/~fee