A W.Va Trip Report: May 21-23
It was a dark and stormy night....well, it's dark and it rained earlier, so it's close enough for me
The West Virginia Adventure
or
The Quick and Dirty Tour of W Va Climbing
Author's Note: I know many of you would like to read about long, hairy climbs
and the epics of being on the sharp end and whatnot, so this here report
probably won't satisfy you much. There was, in fact, very little lead climbing
done on most of this trip by most participants, but there was a lot of
*climbing* done! And a few of you Netters actually managed to meet each other
because of this trip. This is for you, and everyone who just likes climbing,
whether on lead, seconding, top-roping, or soloing. Or reading about it. Or
whatever. :-)
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WARNING: this report covers THREE DAYS of climbing in West Virginia, so
it is rather long! I don't expect many of you to read it, but....
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Item #2: It covers the weekend of May 21 - 23; I know I'm a little late in
posting in, but Real Life has been rearing it's ugly head and has prevented me
from working on it much.... :-(
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Item #3: if you find it boring, sorry. Not used to posting trip reports, but
thought some soul out there might find some insights in to some of the main
climbing areas of West Virginia. Remember, I'm not one of the 'god-like'
climbers like Mort and Dr OW, so..... ;-)
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Chapter 1:
> N E W R I V E R G O R G E <
This all started out early May when Matt ("I can describe *any* body position
to you over a terminal") McCormick posted a desire to hook up with some people
around New River Gorge, West Virginia during the week of May 16th - 22nd. I
have chatted with him a few times via email on and off during the past several
months and respect a lot of what he says (he's managed to get me thinking about
certain things now and again with regards to climbing and how to move more
efficiently). Since New River is but 5.5 - 6 hours from Baltimore, and since my
schedule for that week flipped so I worked evening shift sunday through
thursday, I offered to join him as a belay slave (you see, our boy Matt climbs
around the 12 range, whilst li'l ol' me just putz's around the 9 range, though
I've been trying to do a few 10s here and there, with limited success...). I
thought this would afford an excellent opportunity for me to 1) finally start
meeting more of you Netters, and 2) learn more about The New (since I've only
been there twice before in the last 4+ years, and hadn't seen much of it). Matt
used to climb this area quite a bit in recent years, so knows it pretty well.
We made arrangements for me to hook up with him at the Bridge Buttress area
friday afternoon. I got there right on time, and within a few minutes found
Matt doing a lead of The Layback (5.9 trad). It took me a second to get over
the shock that the man up on the rock was Matt (on a TRAD lead???? Wonders will
never cease... :-). He had hooked up with a fellow from Boulder named Richard,
who was on his way to Virginia Beach for a week (and decided that morning to
stop by the New to have a look-see). After Matt danced a little up The Layback,
he set up a top-rope for Richard and I to play on. I went next (who, me, warm
up?) then Richard (well, Rich and Matt just finished playing on a 12 and a 10
before I arrived, so...). This whole time the weather would occasionally spit a
little rain on us, and stayed overcast enough that we figured it could cut
loose any time. So we moved into the Rock Shelter Cave area and started looking
around. Richard spied the heavily chalked jam-crack, High Times (5.11a; 5.10a
if you don't do the roof section) and prepped himself to do the lead (trad).
Matt started examining Let The Wind Blow, a 5.12a (sport) just 6 or 8 feet to
the right of High Times. I belayed Richard up HT. He took a couple of falls
('interesting crack'), then decended to rest (was still a few moves from the
rap station when he pumped out), so Matt laid siege to Let The Wind Blow. He
finally topped off at the rap anchors. Then Richard gave HT another shot. Took
one short winger near the top, then had that rigged. Richard wasn't commenting
on how hard he thought High Times was; he said he had difficulty judging crack
routes. But did say his arms were totally shot after that. I then tied in and
t-r'd High Times to the top (only one fall; I was pretty happy, all things
considered). Matt jumped back on Let The Wind Blow to work out some of the
interesting and dicey 12 moves in the middle of it. At that point Richard
departed, heading off to warmer climes on the shore (the temps were only in the
mid-50s at New River friday afternoon). After Matt played a while on Wind, he
belayed me up High Times again (this time, no falls!). I quite liked this
route. Nice, nice hand jams, finger locks, a fist jam or two. Neat route! But
no harder than 10a (remember me: 5.9 climber, trying to do some 10s). Matt then
sped up it and disagreed with me, called it 11a (as the guidebook says; I say
no way 'cause 1) I got up the silly thing, and 2) his arms and fingers were
pretty shot).
After that we derigged and moved further around the corner to try Golden
Summer (5.11b sport). Matt did the lead, and it looked like a nice, delicate
face climb. He rigged it for top-rope and handed me the knot to tie in. I told
him I doubted I'd get to the top (11b? Me?? Not!), but he insisted. So I gave
it a go. Gingerly traversed over the 9 and 10 moves (did I say 9 and *10*??),
then started the vertical part of the route. Matt gave a lot of encouragement
as I tried to work out the moves (in my mind I figured out exactly what I had
to do; it was just convincing the body to DO the moves that took the effort!).
I fell off a couple times trying to get those 11 moves together. As I was
climbing (and falling) a small crowd of climbers ambled by with their mascot (a
labradore, I think). I ignored them and went for the move again. And BLEW right
off, smashing the ball of my foot on the best hand/ foothold on the whole
route. I heard someone say 'Rock', and I heard something in the trees behind
(and below) me, and heard the dog dive into the trees. I figured that the
moment I fell off I must've knocked a stone down at the same time someone else
threw something in the woods for the pup to chase. Then I looked down to place
my feet and try the move again, and noticed that there was now a piece of the
route MISSING! That great, awesome hand/foothold was GONE! Ooops.... (sorry to
any of you going out there to do Golden Summer). Anyway, it wasn't that big a
deal for a foothold (there was still a semi-sloping finger ledge next to the
hold that I could stand on), so went ahead and this time MADE the moves! And to
the top. Knock off one 11b route (knock off my first 5.11 period!).
After that we decided we were starving (Matt skipped lunch; I had stopped in
Beckley to eat before arriving The New) so went to the local Pizza Hut for
dinner. Devoured a Supreme pizza, then headed back to The New. Stopped off for
a quick tour of Kaymoor (hmmmm....hard routes...), but didn't climb; Matt just
wanted to show me the area (maybe someday when *I* can lead 12s I can go back
there...). And regal to me stories of Porter Jarrard and his infamous laps up
and down some of the overhanging 12s (for those of you who don't know, Porter
is one of the upper-crust Easter Coast 5.13 climbers; hangs out--literally--at
The New quite a bit).
After that we retired to the Bridge Buttress area and went to sleep.
Morning came, we got up, zipped into Fayettesville for breakfast, then buzzed
north to Summersville Lake. Matt was quite excited about the whole thing, as
was I (get to learn new places to climb, AND get to flail away some more at
hard stuff with a supportive climber who's better than me). When we got there a
couple guys from the Michigan area (there in abouts; don't rightly remember)
hooked up with us to hike in. Matt had spoken to someone at the restaurant
about the hike in and what condition it was in these days (there is a great
deal of logging going on in the immediate area, and the trail from the now
non-existent roadside parking area has been compromised because of it). We were
told to hike along this one logging road for a while, then bear right, and we
would come to the trail. So these instructions we followed. And got sandbagged!
Argh. Bushwack-hell!! Took us forever to find the trail (we eventually did) but
once we did, we went for it. Eventually got to the climbing area (yea!). Matt
then warmed up for the day on Personal Pronoun (5.9*), and I top-roped it
(wasn't feeling up to leading it just yet; besides, it was *chilly* where we
were---breezy, and on the shade-side of the rocks!). He then led Jesus Is My
License Plate (5.10d*), which I then top-roped again (and fell once, but made
it up). Thought it was more a 5.10b than a 10d (like *I* know!). We then
trotted around the corner (away from the sun, sad to say) and he worked on an
arete called Ingrate (5.9). I then top-roped it again (see any trends here?),
then Matt tried a second lead on it (did far better the second time
around--switched over to 'arete-mode' instead of 'face-mode', he said). He
liked it, I didn't. So didn't give it another go. Besides, at this point I
wanted warmth of the sun (as some of you know, yours truly is one of the
original cold wimps). So we moved on down the path along the lake a ways,
looking at this 11, and that 12, and this other 5.godlike route, before finally
reaching what I think is being called Assassin's Wall. There Matt led up
Hygiene (5.10c/d*), which, again, I followed on a top-rope (and fell a few
times---<sigh!>). Next to us the other guys who hiked in with us had just
finished setting up Orange Oswald (5.10b*), so Matt and I switched places with
them so they could top-rope Hygiene and we Orange Oswald. After I was done with
this climb my fingertips were raw and not *quite* bleeding (though they felt
like they should've been!), so I was pretty much done for the day. Matt played
top-rope gumby the rest of the day (well, he earned it) and played on all the
5.10s there (other people had shown by this time and set up Passin' It,
5.10c/d*). After a while he finally burnt out (takes a lot for him!) so we
packed up to leave.
On our way out we ran into a small group of people setting up to do Narcissus
(sp?), a 5.12a route. We stopped to watch as this one guy just smoothly and
gracefully *flowed* up the route, an on-sight flash. Matt was awed (yes, the
Matt I've been with for two days and leaves me in the vertical dust--in awe!),
and commented that he had only seen two other on-sight flashes of 5.12 routes
before in his life.
After that Matt wanted to show me a little hardman history of the area, so we
strolled over to Apollo Reed (5.13a). WOW! All I could say was, 'Wow!'. Big,
big overhanging rock-from-hell. Overhangs some 50+ feet in 70 (or something
like that). Standing underneath it and looking at it from halfway out I about
fell over backwards craning my neck back. Unfortunately no one was in the
neighborhood (Matt thought the local hardmen were probably down at Kaymoor), so
I did not get the treat of seeing anyone attempt this monster. Matt humbly
refused all my offers to belay him up... :-)
Finally we thought it best we get going. On our way out we found a MUCH easier
trail leading out than the one leading in---in fact, within 5 minutes we found
where other people had driven in with their cars! We still had a 20 minute walk
ahead of us to our own cars, though..... <pant!> <pant!>
We finally got to the cars, had a dinner of sorts, then said our good-byes and
went our seperate ways: Matt to New Orleans to meet up with his girlfriend, me
to Seneca Rocks to meet up with David Risinger and some friends of his (and for
me to do more climbing---am I a masochist or what? ;-)
Chapter 2:
> S E N E C A R O C K S <
After a couple hours of driving (closer to three; stopped for dinner in Elkins
at a Pizza Hut), I arrived Seneca. I went straight to the Gendarme climbing
shop and started looking around for cars (David had supplied me with two
descriptions and license plate numbers, depending on whose car they were taking
down; I was also looking for another Netter, Phil Sidel, who was at Seneca this
particular weekend, and he also furnished me with his license tag and car
description to look for him). Found David's friend's car, but not Phil's. Left
a note then hiked around town looking for Phil's (went so far as to hike down
to the Seneca parking area just in case he was still there---yes, by now it was
dark, but *I've* come down in the dark more than once, so who's to say Phil may
not have? :-). Failed finding Phil's car, so figured I'd go back and wait to
see who picked up the note on David's friend's car. I got back, and the note
was already gone! Missed them!! But the car was still there, so they were
around...somewhere. Then this guy approaches me tenatively, clutching a
familiar-looking piece of paper in his hands (ie, my note). He and I look at
each other for a minute and introduce ourselves (it was our David Risinger
himself). Then his girlfriend Sharleen and their friend who owned the car, Bob,
came over. Introductions all around, then Dave and Shar and I migrated into the
Gendarme while Bob went off to make a phone call or something. While talking in
there of our weekend experiences so far, this weathered-faced, white-haired and
bearded (white) gentleman wondered in with two college-aged (freshmen types?)
guys, obviously showing them this, that, and the other (with the two drinking
in everything he was saying). I looked at him and got a feeling. Phil Sidel had
generically described himself as having a white beard and hair, and that it
used to be red in the past. Hmmmmm.....so I asked if he were Phil Sidel. For a
moment he was a little confused (who IS this strange guy asking me if I'm me?),
but once he figured out who I was (or I mentioned it; don't remember rightly),
things were all smiles and laughs. I introduced Phil to Dave and Sharleen (and
vica versa; as the world is a small place, they each learned they were all from
Pittsburg!)), and we chatted for a while. Eventually Shar and Dave dragged me
up to their campsite (yes, dragged---I was starting to fall asleep on my feet,
talking), and we all retired for the evening. Never ran into Phil again (but
maybe on a future trip?).
Before sleeping, Dave reminded me of the morning plans. He had told me earlier
on (when we talked earlier in the week) that I was taking Shar up and he was
going with Bob, but it hadn't sunk in yet. Dave then gently reminded me that I
was taking Shar in the morning. Why? Well, because he and she were 'arguing' or
some such excuse (thanks, Dave!). I saw through that and figured it was all a
ploy to do a sanction on me and split all my gear ( I had brought enough!). He
admitted as much (thanks again!) but I was still taking Shar (going to do me in
yet). He did give me foreshadowing of this event by saying she was going to
take my rack from me, so I shouldn't be surprised.
I fell asleep with this as my last thought....
A *chilly* 6am I hear Bob's alarm go off and he's waking us up. 6am?!? I just
got there last night <whine>. I was tired <whine>. It was COLD out! <WHINE!>.
No one else in their right MINDS would be up at this hour with this chill---if
it were warmer, sure, but this was brutal cold. Mean, nasty cold. Denali Cold.
Artic freeze-your-tush-off cold! <whiiiiiinnnnnne!>. Got a WARM shower and felt
more human (but it was still cold out!). We all went to breakfast at the 4-U
Restaurant (Shar brought her own: left-over pizza from the night before!). Then
dashed up to the parking lot and sorted gear. We then headed off to our
respective destinations: Shar and I to Conn's East Direct (5.8*), Dave and Bob
to the South End to go for Lower Skyline Direct
Shar and I got to Conn's East Direct (CED) with no difficulty, and she
delighted in my pointing out all the climbs on the East Face of South Peak
(having never been in this area before; she was very enthusiastic about it
all). We got set and I led up to the first rap station halfway up the first
pitch. I wanted to try and set up Pollux (5.10a*) on a top-rope, and give Shar
practice on Conn's East Direct in case she wanted to give it a go at leading
the rest of it (from the rap station and up it was no harder than 5.6, *well*
within her climbing range---and actually, the 5.6 part started less than 10'
up, with the first 10' being the crux section). As I finished a couple of guys
called up to us from down below, at the base of the rocks, asking what route we
were on. They then scrambled up some ledges to join us, wanting to do Castor
(5.10a*) on lead. While they got themselves situated, Shar got tied in and did
CED (commented on how one of the 5.6 moves above was rather delicate). We
discussed pro-placement most of the way up (how and why I put what I did where,
and where else she might want to place something, and from what stance). Next
was my 'turn' so I got on Pullox. And flashed the bugger! Nice, nice jam-crack.
I thought for sure I'd pop at least once near the top (from burnt-out forearms)
but somehow managed to hang in there (slipped once, but held and didn't weight
the rope), and cruised the top. Jam! Shar got on next and made a valiant
effort, but with the way the anchors were set, and because she's not yet used
to working with jam-cracks (much less *5.10* jam-cracks!), she popped several
times and swung a short ways over. But each time managed to get herself back on
the route and give it another go. Finally, about 1/3 of the way up (more like
not quite 1/2 way) she decided it would be good if she punted now if she were
to lead Gunsight To South Peak later (which was the plan after playing here on
Pullox and CED). While we rested ourselves we chatted with the two guys who
were doing Castor. I casually watched the leader wrench his way up, but wasn't
paying much attention to him (figuring I wasn't going to be doing that route
any time soon: didn't know how a top-rope system would work on it---too far
away from the CED rap anchors---and definitely wasn't going to lead it). The
leader finally topped off the pitch and lowered. The belayer offered me a
top-rope ride if I wanted, which I readily said 'yes!' to (wasn't everyday I
was going to get a chance like this, so...). So we all talked a while then the
belayer went up to clean and rap down my rope on CED. Shar and I continued our
break (again, I didn't pay much--if any--attention to the guy climbing Castor
for some reason; guess I wanted to have this be as fresh/new a route as
possible for me?) and ate a bit. While we munched on miscellaneous stuff, a
couple other guys showed up and wanted to lead Pollux. So we cleared out a bit
for them to have room and tried to chat briefly with them (but it was quickly
clear that they weren't feeling that social, so we left them be).
While we were waiting I noticed something falling from the sky that looked like
a carpet piece or clump of leaves. It thudded against the cliff face some 60 or
80 feet up, then landed with a plop. Then it moved. It was a dove! Shar and I
went down to check on it; it was still alive, but with an injured wing. No
apparent blood or anything, but not being versed in bird-medicine (only human
first aid and cpr, plus lizard cpr), wasn't much I could do. Set up a little
rock 'shelter' for it to sit in so it wouldn't roll off the Broadway Ledge, and
left it be from there (Shar kept threatening to go get it and bring it back
with us, but I asked her where she was planning on storing the poor thing, and
how Dave and Bob would feel with it in the car---other than as a dinner
supplement :-). She displayed strong willpower and left the bird alone. We
went back up to the guys on Castor and they were ready for me. The plan: I
would top out, dismantle their top-rope set-up, and rap down on my rope (they
were in a small hurry 'cause the one guy had to get back to Dulles Airport in
Wash DC for a flight out that night; there was no more time for them to climb
after me). I figured on one or two falls, but was confident I could top off.
The other two guys on Pollux were still looking at the first moves when I tied
in and started climbing. From that point I forgot about most of the world,
concentrating hard on the route before me, and how I needed to move through it,
and how NICE it was this crack! I heard comments drift up from Shar and the two
guys, but tried to not pay attention; this route was too neat to climb. Without
going into nitty-gritty details of this hand-hold, and that foot-hold, and to
try and keep this from getting TOO long (hah!!), I made it up without much of a
pause, and no falls---it was an on-sight flash! Hot-damn!! I was psyched! My
first unworked/unstudied 5.10a on-sight flash. Happy, happy, happy.... :-)
Dismantling the top-rope anchors took a bit of doing: they were in SOLID.
Finally got them free, clipped them to me and started moving to the rap
station. All this time I thought I was on belay, but apparently when I started
dismantling the anchors belay went off (well, when they were dismantled it
wouldn't've mattered I guess; but still...). Anyway, I noticed on my traverse
that the rope was going right through a sharp constricting crack at the top of
Castor. I clipped into the rap anchors and tried to flip the rope free from the
crack 9this so when I got ready to drop it nothing would get caught and it
would drop free. One, two, three flips and it was free.
Unfortunately, I was some 20 feet away, and I had completely forgotten about
the crew on Pollux. The rope flipped free, and slid across the face to end up
below me (I was still holding onto the the end I was tied to), and it grazed
the helmet of the leader on Pollux, who made it VERY clear he was VERY unhappy
with all of us (esp me). This was when I realized they were there, and looked
over--the guy was not quite halfway up glaring at me with hate in his eyes. I
apologized a lot, explaining it wasn't intentional. He then continued by
telling me to go ahead and drop the other half of the rope on him and he'll cut
it. Kept calling me names and cursing my lineage and so on. The guys (and Shar)
below whose rope it was thought this was going a little far: the guy didn't
fall, everyone knew it was an accident and I didn't mean it, and I was way
sorry. But the guy wouldn't let up. Finally the two guys got their rope out of
his way (WAY out of his way!) and I could drop it safely down to them. Then I
rapped down. And we decided it would be good to leave.
The two guys we were climbing with had gotten packed by this point and headed
out; Shar and I gathered our gear when the belayer on Pollux asked me where I
was from. Apparently he and the guy climbing Pollux were from Ohio and he
recognized my face from one of the climbing areas there (the 'small world
syndrome' starts). He seemed congenial enough, and was amiable towards us while
we packed. The lead above (who was only halfway up now) ignored us completely.
Found out the lead's name was Mike (don't remember the belayer's name). I knew
of a couple Mike's back in Ohio who climbed 5.10 - 5.12+ in the years I was
there, but wasn't sure if this was one (turned out from some later detective
work and asking around from other Ohio climbers I know that he was one, but he
wasn't regarded as one of the friendlier Ohioans around; sometimes got an
attitude with people, apparently; still doesn't absolve my actions with the
rope, though...but explains why he kept at me for such a long time). Anyway, we
got ourselves packed and left to go to Gunsight To South Peak for Shar to lead.
We scrambled up the 5.0 climb to the Gunsight notch, and found two other guys
had gotten there 5 minutes before us! Argh!! So much for doing Gunsight today;
we were on a time-limit (had to be back to the cars by 3pm so Dave, Shar, and
Bob could get their tents down and leave for Pittsburg), so decided it would be
best saved for another day. We watched a short bit as they got started, then
moved down to play on a couple of 8's I know of on the Headwall (Nova and Lox),
which happen to reside *right**over* the rap station there (convenient top-rope
anchor it makes, too!). While we were setting up to rap down and climb a
little, I heard voices off towards the Thais chimney drift over the treetops
towards us. Familiar voices. Voices of Merle Reinhart and Chris Anderson, two
guys I work with! But wasn't clear where they were. I also saw a guy on Thais
who had just finished leading the first pitch, but he had a shiney neon green
(read: REI Citron) helmet on, and the last time I checked Merle didn't own a
helmet, and Chris' was white with splotchy colorations. So I called out to
Chris (since his was the last voice I heard) and the green-helmeted figure
answered back---in Merle's voice! It turned out that Merle had just days before
picked up that helmet; I just hadn't been let in on the news yet. Surprise!
Anyway, I was able to use those two to point out to Shar the second pitch of
Thais (while Merle climbed it and Chris belayed). Took a few pics of them with
one of those 'disposable' Kodak cameras (do you know you can reload/recycle
those things? I do... :-), but they came out as teeny dots with colored heads
(well, what did I expect from that distance, anyway? Made for a great
wide-angle photo of the Thais face and chimney, though!). We left them be
(aside from the occassional yell back and forth) and climbed a bit before we
had to go. Shar did Nova, 5.8, but with some difficulty (it's not a pretty or
straightforward climb, though she tried hard to make it so), and I did Lox
(another 5.8, and no more pretty than Nova; I just tried to get UP the thing!
Was tired by this point...). After topping off on Lox, I undid the top-rope
anchors and set up the final rap and came down. We then packed up everything,
and hiked back down to the cars (we were running a bit late). On the way I
pointed out more routes for Shar to come do someday, and pointed out the Thais
face where Chris and Merle were when we got closer. Finally we headed down to
the cars, arriving 45 minutes late (oops). But to our surprise, no Dave or Bob!
Shar was commenting her mild shock, telling me that Bob's NEVER late! I figured
they probably got stuck in line at a rap station (it's happened to me before
here; once for nearly two hours!), so we doffed our gear, sat down, and chowed
on what remained of the pizzas from our respective dinners the night before.
5 minutes into munching and chatting we got one of the worst scares of our day
(maybe even lives?). We were hidden from view of the rocks where we ate on the
grass by the cars, so had no opportunity to see anything. But we HEARD a
*tremendous* amount of rockfall suddenly start up! Sounded to me as if an
entire 10' section of the South End suddenly cut loose and crash down into the
talus field below. We also heard many people yelling: "Rock! Rock! ROCK!!
ROCK-ROCK-ROCK!!!!". Shar had this pensive look on her face the whole time, and
I strained to hear more, preparing to send Shar off to the Gendarme to get help
if I heard people screaming in pain or cries of help. But instead I heard what
sounded like a large boulder and a lot of little pieces crash about the
mountain side and the people yelling warnings to any below. Finally, after some
LONG seconds, it all stopped. Then I heard a pensive voice call out, "Are you
alright? Is everybody okay??", and a reply, "Yeah, everyone's okay". Sighs of
relief all around.
Sobering sounds, but relieving that no one was hurt.
Later I learned from Merle and Chris (who were at the West Pole rappel, getting
things set up to come down) that the rockfall apparently emanated from the
scree-filled gully above Conn's West/Prune near the top of the rocks. It is
unknown exactly WHAT happened in that gully, but everyone felt that there were
probably some beginners scrambling up through there, unaware of just how LOOSE
that stuff is (I'm aware; was up there a few years back and gingerly backed
down from it---too lose for my lichen! Er, "likin'"). We figured a simple
accidental kick or misstep sent one down, and it gathered some brothers to
accompany it on it's trip down to the ground. It was doubtful that it would've
been weather-related 'cause it was a calm day.
Merle and Chris investigated the impact zone when they rapped off. Apparently
it all crashed around at the base of the final rappel/start of the Old Man's
Route. And also there apparently was a party of 5 who had JUST gotten off that
rappel not a couple minutes before the slide/rockfall occured. Fortunately they
had vacated the area prior to the rockfall or there would have been some
injuries. Merle and Chris reported that they saw a number of impact areas where
the falling rocks chipped and carved out hefty sections of the base, and where
the splintering rock's shrapnel was shot in all directions (as evidenced by the
scoring on the trees around). If anyone would have been in the neighborhood of
this rockfall, they probably would've been injured in some way, helmetted or
no. But just as well no one was there; climbing injuries are bad enough when
they *do* happen.
Anyway, not 5 or 10 minutes later Dave and Bob come strolling up the path. Shar
and I asked them about the rockfall (since at that time we thought it happened
near the South End, and they would've been able to hear it if they were walking
out or climbing near there), but apparently they knew nothing of it. Bummer.
Well, it would've been nice for them to hear something as serious as this, but
*I* wasn't going up there to recreate it, thank you! We then briefly exchanged
stories of our respective days and headed back to camp, where I helped them
take down their tents. After this, we parted and went our seperate ways: the
three of them to Pittsburg, me to Baltimore.
> F I N I <
Matt McCormick is a fantastic person to climb with. Very supportive and
patient. Hopefully I'll be able to get together with him again in the near
future (ie, before this summer ends?). Shar's a great person to climb with.
Moves well, and is just a bundle of energy and enthusiasm (if you can't keep
up, too bad for you! If you need motivation, she'll find a stick that WILL
reach you, however high up you may be...). Didn't get to climb with Dave,
unfortunately, so I'm hoping for a chance later this summer (when his schedule
settles down and manages to coincide with mine). He's a neat guy, otherwise.
Phil seemed like a jolly soul, and was just there to *enjoy* *climbing*, not
push numbers or anything. What struck me about everyone I met and/or climbed
with that weekend was that they all pretty much had similar philosophies to
climbing. As Matt once told me (and I quote), "Any day climbing is a good day,
I don't care what the grade".
Thanks, Matt, Dave, Shar, and Bob. This weekend wouldn't've happened without
you guys.
--
Mark
Jeff Elison
: The West Virginia Adventure
: or
: The Quick and Dirty Tour of W Va Climbing
: This all started out early May when Matt ("I can describe *any* body position
: to you over a terminal") McCormick posted a desire to hook up with some people
: around New River Gorge, West Virginia during the week of May 16th - 22nd.
And he's still on the road. I ran into Matt at the Sinks Canyon campground
last Friday. We had pulled into the campsite next to him. The weather was
basically crap; wind, drizzle, and some snow. We did a bit of climbing
together at Wild Iris, shared a big dinner, some beer, and some Ben & Jerry's
Ice Cream.
Unfortunately, we missed him on his way thru Ft. Collins the other day.
While we were at Wild Iris, Matt was kind enough to demonstrate why a small
belayer might want to tie in. Matt is about 6'3" and 190 lbs. He was on
this very overhung 11b sort of thing with extra closely spaced bolts when
he pumped out. What should have been a 6' fall turned into a 15' fall when
his girlfriend got pulled across the ground. Then Matt gets up to the anchor
and misses the clip. This time what should have been a 10' fall turned into
a 20 footer as his girlfriend was pulled across the ground and a few feet up
the wall. Matt said "I kept watching the bolts go by, knowing something was
wrong, and wondering if I was going to hit the ground."
All this provided much incentive for me to not fall. Anyway, Tribal War is
a great route if you are at Wild Iris.
Mort
John Byrnes
> While we were at Wild Iris, Matt was kind enough to demonstrate why a small
> ...wondering if I was going to hit the ground."
>
> All this provided much incentive for me to not fall.
>
But Mort, you only weigh 130lbs and can be belayed by an anorexic pygmy
with MS.
John
Suzanne Paulson
I weigh less than Mort (who certianly seems to need an attentive
belayer even on moderate climbs) but rarely tie in, and generally use a
gri gri. This works very well because the climber gets a dynamic belay
when I get pulled up, and feels a soft perfect landing. I prefer my
belayers (that are almost always heavier) to use an 8 or whatever so
that they can feed out a little slack, to make my landings soft; this
combination is perfect. This assumes that the belayer has the slack
technique down--I climbed a few days with a guy who would let me fall,
slam into the face on a taught rope, and THEN let out 2-3 feet of slack,
at which point I was wondering why I was still falling and when I could
expect to stop...not pleasant I can tell you, but then I got used to
it since I didnt have another belayer! With a 190 lb'er, though, meybe I
would tie in...
Suzanne
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Re: A W.Va Trip Report: May 21-23
Summary:
Expires:
References: <C9x38...@fc.hp.com> <1064...@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>
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Keywords:
Eric Hirst
>I weigh less than Mort (who certianly seems to need an attentive
>belayer even on moderate climbs) but rarely tie in, and generally use a
>gri gri. This works very well because the climber gets a dynamic belay
>when I get pulled up, and feels a soft perfect landing. I prefer my
>belayers (that are almost always heavier) to use an 8 or whatever so
>that they can feed out a little slack, to make my landings soft; this
>combination is perfect. This assumes that the belayer has the slack
>technique down. . .
Dang sport climbers again. For those of us who occasionally climb stuff
that doesn't overhang in its entirety, the flaccid belay techniques being
alluded to do not apply when there are ledges around to bounce off. The
latest R&I has an article on the use of extra slack on overhanging routes,
complete with actual drawings. Have your partner read it and save big
at the orthodondist's office.
I would not let anyone belay me on a figure eight used in the rappel
configuration. No problem if they use the small end like a Stitch.
But I've always felt that eights are better suited for measuring spaghetti
than for climbing.
Eric Hirst
er...@u.washington.edu
phil stuart-jones
> But I've always felt that eights are better suited for measuring spaghetti
> than for climbing.
Errr, I must have missed this technique... Is it an FAQ? :-)
Let me guess - what fits simultaneously through the small hole is enough
for one, what fits through the large hole is enough for four (or three
Italians)?
Interested parties, etc...
phil
Respect respect
The moral majority are neither
Personal responsibility, not control by law
Vote for freedom of speech while you're still allowed to