anchors away
agedest
what it takes to make use of anchors: neither the knowledge nor the
equipment. Books can offer only general guidelines and typical
examples. You still have to work out each one, every time; and no
matter how many times you've set one, there might still be a more
efficient or safer way.
The father-son recently with all the new gear had needed either 1)
many "slings", webbing with ends "bar-tacked" together, of different
lengths; 2) "climb-rated" webbing, with "one-inch tubular" common,
that will be tied into a loop with a "water knot"; or 3) "cordelette"
with 7mm typical; and 4) ways to both extend and shorten them and to
"equalize" what you end up with.
At that site was a pair of "bolted hangers" for which they needed that
many rated carabiners, plus two for the rope to pass through as the
"master point", which are preferred to be "locking gate". Many would
also want a "back-up" line to "natural anchors" of 1) a stout tree
trunk or 2) a rock to put a line securely around, or 3) rock cracks to
put "gear" in, meaning "nuts" etc. or spring "cams" which commonly
come as sets of assorted and color-coded sizes. At other sites there
would be only natural anchors, usually requiring greater lengths of
line that may include "static" or maybe retired climbing rope. Some
do use Sport-climbing "quick-draws" of two "biners" connected by
slings, certainly for face anchors; but they often are "side-loaded"
dangerously if chained to get over the edge.
While "building" the anchor attachments, you should have "tied in" to
something with a variable-length "daisy chain" or other short line.
For top-rope, you may also need a "hand-line" to hold or rappel as you
scramble to or from the anchors. For "lead" climbing, you may also
need some gear to leave at the anchors to "lower off", as also happens
along a lead route that could not be completed, that another climber
may take as "booty". And no matter how well equipped you thought you
were, someone will have something or a method you will want to add.
Thor Lancelot Simon
agedest <ber...@wmconnect.com> wrote:
>What I'm seeing more of, the more I see, is people who do not have
>what it takes to make use of anchors: neither the knowledge nor the
>equipment. Books can offer only general guidelines and typical
>examples. You still have to work out each one, every time; and no
>matter how many times you've set one, there might still be a more
>efficient or safer way.
>
>The father-son recently with all the new gear had needed either 1)
>many "slings", webbing with ends "bar-tacked" together, of different
"What" is "with" all the "quotation" "marks" on "every" "word"?
--
Thor Lancelot Simon t...@rek.tjls.com
"The inconsistency is startling, though admittedly, if consistency is to
be abandoned or transcended, there is no problem." - Noam Chomsky
Al Black
> What I'm seeing more of, the more I see, is people who do not have what
> it takes to make use of anchors: neither the knowledge nor the
> equipment.
<....>
> While "building" the anchor attachments, you should have "tied in" to
> something with a variable-length "daisy chain" or other short line.
For what its worth, you might want to rethink that. http://www.ubc-
voc.com/wiki/Daisy_chain illustrates the problem. Daisy chains full
strength ratings are only for when loaded at the end loops.
al
^,,^
"agedest" does -- for "everything" seems to go "wrong" there -- like
"all" the "time"
"surely" one "scary" place. me, i'm thinking "utah"
^,,^
"Either free will exists, or I was simply pre-ordained to believe that
free will exists. I'd guess, but what would be the point?"
-my pal, our brother, Lupo
Al Black
> all "i" "know" is that i'm glad that "i" don't climb where our brother
> "agedest" does -- for "everything" seems to go "wrong" there -- like
> "all" the "time"
>
> "surely" one "scary" place. me, i'm thinking "utah"
You mean he climbs in in Utah? Or you're thinking of "taking a trip" to
"Utah"?
My I'm thinking of going to stonehill this weekend, and am now am humming
My own private Idaho.
al
You're life, your thoughts your actions your intent all if it balled up,
that's your prayer.
Eugene Miya
>
>You mean he climbs in in xxxxx? Or you're thinking of "taking a trip" to
>"xxxxx"?
Hey, we don't use certain proper names where powder skiing can be
involved.
>My I'm thinking of going to stonehill this weekend, and am now am humming
>My own private Idaho.
Idaho is acceptable.
You can use Idaho.
--
Eugene Miya
--
Sue
<bcc24dba-b77f-43fb...@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com>,
"^,,^" <pipwasj...@gmail.com> wrote:
> all "i" "know" is that i'm glad that "i" don't climb where our brother
> "agedest" does -- for "everything" seems to go "wrong" there -- like
> "all" the "time"
Just what "i" was "thinking", too.
^,,^
> I'm thinking of going to stonehill this weekend
ooh, i'm envious. stone hill is a screech. not especially huge, but
absolutely solid. the seneca of the yaak valley. two or more(?)
years ago i took the eldest of my nieces and nephews up (for me, it's
up - for you, down) there. we had an absolute ball. the routes were
short enough that the kids never got bored (myself, chief kid). and
even with multiple TR's running no one cratered (oh, amen!). then we
drove west and drifted the yaak. even if all you could do was throw
the fly out of the boat, you still caught something spirited. that, a
couple pizzas, and a bonfire around which i told them all manner of
stories about how at least one of their parents was a definable moron
proved to be a massive hit among the juniors of what is left of my
gene pool.
alas, since then, i've been limited to carefully chaparoned minature
golf outings with said same junior gene pool. i forgot the 'group
blood oath' part -- and you figured that as there was fishing involved
i would have certainly remembered that, if nothing more. ack... i'm
often as dumb as i look... but, eventually, they'll all turn 18, at
which point they can hang out with uncle db (and aunt lupo) all they
want. hee hee, til then...
~~~
having mentioned fishing, you do realize that this saturday is opening
day for the MT trout season. granted, they will charge an out-of-
stater like you a significant body part for a license -- but then if
you are (as i am) confident that you are willing to walk more than 500
meters from the nearest dirt road, that and promise to release
anything you catch -- who the fook cares? if all of the above, you
have my personal permission to poach in montana (and be sure to take a
print out of this post with you -- it will help a whole lot...
yeah...)
so, anyway, here's the trick: early season that far north what you
want is a any wooly bugger (the ubiquitous fly, even lupo can tie one)
and a wooly egg. a wooly egg is simply a wad of pink or orange yarn
wrapped around a hook. got both? -- ok, take a pair of needle nosed
pliers and snap the bend (the 'hook' part) of the wooly egg, then
thread the eye of what's left of the hook on the wooly egg into the
tippet (ok, the 'leader', ok, the 'see-through part of your outfit')
now, tie in the wooly bugger. now cast this into any moving water.
if you can't cast it, throw it. wrap it around a stick and throw it.
think of something, just get it out in the deep part. then just hang
on (and promise not to eat the soul you just fish-lipped)
early season, that close to the border (of, like you) this is the
equivelent of dynamiting fish at the base of the dam. you'd think
that after a long, long winter of nothing to eat and freezing one's
salmanoid ass off, all the trout would be thinking is LUNCH! but
you'd be wrong. or so i have come to realize. apparently what all
the boy trout (and the boy kokanee up in the resovoirs) are thinking
of through the long winter is how to keep their dreamed of prom dates
away from, um, the competition. what their prom dates are thinking
through the long, long winter i can hardly imagine (ask them). but
anyway, the sight of a wooly bugger (imitates a leech, or junior
trout, in any case the enemy) messing with a wooly egg (um, egg)
simply makes the boy trout (et al) go pos-o-lutly nuts.
later in the season, after the bachelors have been to the prom _and_
have had lunch for weeks in a row, finding something they will tear
into is the darkest and deepest of the forbidden art. at that point
you're on your own, Al. (though do email me if you find something
that works more than once by accident).
if i was anywhere close, i'd drive up and frighten your prom date.
alas, i''m like 2,000 miles east surrounded by morons and traffic
jams.
enjoy your trip, and do everything in youir power to avoid idaho,
^,,^