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Belaying in California
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Dieter Britz
Mar 20, 2012, 3:24:56 AM3/20/12
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In our indoors climbing place in Aarhus, Denmark, we got a new
member who is from California. I checked him for belaying; he was
used to using the ATC device. However, his braking hand was mostly
pointing upwards, where there is no braking force at all, and he moved
it down only when there was a fall. So I sent him to do the belaying
course we give new members, and he is belaying OK now.
I asked him how come he belayed like that, and he reckoned that's
how they do it in California. Can this be true?
--
Dieter Britz
member who is from California. I checked him for belaying; he was
used to using the ATC device. However, his braking hand was mostly
pointing upwards, where there is no braking force at all, and he moved
it down only when there was a fall. So I sent him to do the belaying
course we give new members, and he is belaying OK now.
I asked him how come he belayed like that, and he reckoned that's
how they do it in California. Can this be true?
--
Dieter Britz
Bryan
Mar 21, 2012, 5:04:34 PM3/21/12
to
On Tue, 20 Mar 2012 07:24:56 +0000 (UTC), Dieter Britz
<dieterh...@gmail.com> appears to have written:
I see that form with ATC on occasion and I don't know if any accidents can
be attributed to it. Typically. a fall pulls the ATC tight against the
rope and the caribiner and gives the belayer time to react. It isn't
purely a California thing. It is a sloppy form thing.
I always keep my braking hand down by my leg and well below the ATC when I
am not feeding rope. Even more so when the person on the sharp end moves
out of view.
<dieterh...@gmail.com> appears to have written:
be attributed to it. Typically. a fall pulls the ATC tight against the
rope and the caribiner and gives the belayer time to react. It isn't
purely a California thing. It is a sloppy form thing.
I always keep my braking hand down by my leg and well below the ATC when I
am not feeding rope. Even more so when the person on the sharp end moves
out of view.
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