Bellefonte Climbing Guide

[jim bowers]

Here is the Bellefonte climbing guide for those folks who expressed interest.
Some have described this as the most humerous guide ever written so think
about reading this for pleasure - it's not just a climbing guide.

Jim

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BELLEFONTE

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CLIMBERS

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GUIDE

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160 lead climbs on Pennsylvania grade A limestone.

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by

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Jim Bowers

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Third Edition

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Introductory Stuff
Introduction > 1
Easy to Follow Directions > 2
A Protection Grading > 4
Terribly Important Safety Info > 5
Bolt Info > 6
A Useful Diagram > 8
Never Fear, Ethics are Here > 9
Area Beautification > 10
Nature Stuff > 11
Aerobics Lessons > 12
Silly Diagram > 13

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Main Quarry Area
Death Star Quarry > 16
Upper Quarry > 21
Lower Quarry > 49

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Friction Quarries
Compressor Quarry > 62
Silent Quarry > 71
Double Secret Quarry > 76

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Rest of The Guide
Other Areas > 81
Frozen White Stuff > 83
History > 86
Geology > 93
First Ascent Abbreviations > 96
Index > 97
Fashion > 99
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Preface - by Kathy Davinroy

How to write a preface to a book which hardly needs one. First,
start simply: this is a guide to Bellefonte climbing. Second, mention
the exceptional characteristics of the guide: it is absolutely,
meticulously accurate, and it will piss some people off. Third,
explain myself.
Most guide books operate on the idea that their sole purpose in life
is to inform. If we can say that the mark of creativity is the extent
to which anything exceeds some accepted framework, Bowers has clearly
exceeded the framework dictating the contents of a climbing guide.
Some will say he has exceeded the bounds of good taste. What sets
this guide apart is the constant conversation, the patter, the yak.
If nothing else, Bowers invites you both to climb and to respond,
because the first rule for Bowers is to participate. He is famous
for helping new comers up a climb with, "you look great, just go up."
Never have I doubted my abilities in his presence, he exudes success
and belief. Climbing is a joy to him: climbing with him is a joy to
anyone.
Bowers writes like he climbs, balancing the
fine line separating comfort and discomfort, joy and fear.
Clearly some will fall on either side. But if you choose to
walk that line with him, I think you will learn about us, about the
area, and maybe something about yourself.
This book is much more than a map, a blueprint of Bellefonte.
It catalogues a whole history. Written in the wee hours of the
morning, with the barest occasional help, truly this is Bowers'
book and is bound to get a little weird.
So my job is to warn you. This preface is really a warning to those
who might bring preconceived ideas of a "guide book" with them.
Their expectations may not be fulfilled. My advice is to sit back,
laugh and linger; linger over the history, the geology section.
Let the atmosphere happen. And if you get angry at the familiar
tone, the personal jokes, stop.
Think about your own climbing areas. About the big guys and the
little guys. About the ego game, the macho image, and about how much
we love to do it. That, after all is why he wrote the book. He loves
to climb and has done more for Bellefonte than anyone.
He lives the belief that in order to nurture something
you love you must be with it all the time - including inconvenient
times.
This book might call forth a renewal of the climbing spirit or it
might piss you off - if you read it all you probably
won't forget it. We all have it in our packs.
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INTRODUCTION
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Over half a century ago, Bellefonte
quarry men
removed millions of tons of rock from the earth
so mankind could sprinkle lime on
farmers fields and delineate the foul lines on baseball diamonds.
What they left behind was a diamond in the rough - steep, alluring
walls of magnificent virgin limestone. Wondrous crack systems
yielding fantastic hand and finger jams, and
blank walls containing devious
pathways of minute hand and foot holds -
tiny, insignificant bumps and discolorations that give momentary
purchase to sticky soles.
In short a climbers paradise, uncovered after 400 million years of
darkness.
This is the story of those brave men and women climbers who have
accepted the limestone challenge and ventured upon the intimidating
walls of the Bellefonte quarries.
This guide is intended to entice visitors to this unique
area, and
provide a Disneyland tour through the varied adventures
which lie waiting for those willing to sample the
secrets of limestone climbing.
If you haven't
been to Bellefonte, you've been missing one of the most unique and
varied climbing areas in this part of the country.
And if you have been to Bellefonte I ask -
have you been there lately?

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THE ROCK
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The climbing on this limestone is quite a bit different from quartzite
and is perhaps more akin to granite.
The rock itself is very forgiving on the hands
and feet so you won't rip your tips to shreds or wear out your
soles in a week.
Taping up is unnecessary for the jamming routes
(think of all the money you will save on shoes, benzoin, and tape).
The height of the Bellefonte cliffs vary,
but most of the climbs average 75 to 110 ft.
Some of the climbs may seem longer, as the best single word to
describe Bellefonte climbing is "continuous."
Continuous finger jamming up a long vertical crack, continuous manteling
and palming on sloping nothings up a Friction Quarry route,
finger crack traverses that seem
to go on forever or super thin moves up one tiny face-hold after
another. It's all just so bloody continuous that you end up
feeling quite satisfied once you reach the top.
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DIRECTIONS
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Bellefonte is located dead center in the middle of the state,
just ten miles
north of State College and a few minutes south of I-80.
Driving time is about 1.5 hours from Harrisburg, 3.5 hours from
Philly or Pittsburgh, 4.5 hours from the Gunks, and 4 hours from D.C.
The very close proximity of Bellefonte to route 80 makes the quarries
an easy stop-over for western climbers traveling to
the Gunks or a stop over for Gunks climbers going to the New River Gorge.
To get to the Main Quarry area from route 80, take exit 23 and travel
south on 220 for one mile.
Exit right on route 150 south and go about 2 miles until you get
to the fenced-in Cerro brass works on the left.
This is about 100 yards before you get to the Penn State Sub Shop
on the right.
Parking for the Main Quarry area is along a dirt road that borders the
fence on the north side of the brass works (it may be possible to drive
into the Lower Quarry).
This dirt road isn't real obvious - where you turn there are
some green warehouses on the right, and
some large black water containers on the left.
If you get to the church with "Jesus Saves"
on it you have gone too far south.
From State College, go north on route 26 and take the left fork at the
Nittany Mall.
Continue on that road through Bellefonte and the Penn State Sub Shop will
be on the left.
To get to the Friction Quarries from the Main Quarry area,
continue south on 150 and cross the
first bridge on the right (Lamb St.).
Take a right onto Thomas St. and follow that road which goes
past the lime plant.
The lime plant is a fairly obvious landmark to find as it is
constantly belching forth white steam.
Continue on this road for about a mile past where the road goes up
hill and takes a sharp turn to the left. The parking areas for
the Friction quarries are large pulloffs before or after mile marker
2 over 40. This mile marker is on the left side of the road and is
only readable going the opposite direction.
To get to the Double Secret Quarry go south on 150 through
Bellefonte and turn right on 155 at a light.
The Con Lime sign where you turn is about 3 miles on the left.
Go right and park at a turnoff on the right at a bend after
you cross the bridge.
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ACCESS
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The Bellefonte cliffs are a series of old limestone quarries, but
fortunately they aren't your typical limestone aggregate quarry and the
rock is very solid (see geology section).
The quarries are owned by the lime company (workings have been moved
underground), although they don't seem to worry about climbing.
However,
a low profile is recommended (then why in the hell am I writing this
guidebook?).
Even with a guidebook, Bellefonte will probably never become crowded with
climbers (part of its appeal).
Perhaps the best way to keep a low profile is to act friendly towards the
local non-climbing population that also use the Upper Quarry area for
recreation.
Aside from sporadic graffiti problems, Bellefonte NCP's (non-climbing
personnel) fortunately are pretty easy to get along with.

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ABOUT THE GUIDE
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In writing this guide I have attempted to incorporate (copy) the
best features of all the guide books I could get my hands on
as well as adding a few new features.
Using the basic format of the old 1972 Gunks guide (still the best guide
I've ever read), I have added a protection grade and
recommended protection (subtitled PRO)
which gives a clue as to the protection possibilities for a particular
climb as well as listing any fixed pro.
As quality stars are the latest guidebook fad I've thrown in
one to four for climbs that are exceptionally fun and classic
(my opinion only).
Actually, I used smiley faces for nice climbs and Mr. Yuck faces for
lousy ones.
Initially I wasn't going to include first ascent info to avoid
charges of ego trip (my name appears most often).
After careful consideration I realized that I just don't care.
Knowing who put a route up gives a lot of insight into the nature of
that climb.
A Miller Leopard Wall route or a Bowers Friction Quarry route or a
Horst Death Star route each have a particular character about them.
Sort of like paintings, you may or may not like the particular artist.
Names appearing more than once are abbreviated to save space
(see appendix).
FFA implies that the route has been redpointed by the leader.
Followers may have fallen or been dragged up and are listed for
reference.
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PROTECTION NOTES
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A typical Bellefonte rack differs little from one you would use in the
Gunks (Stoppers, Friends, RP's, T.C.U's, etc...).
Gear for the Friction Quarries, the Leopard Wall, and new 5.12's is
usually simple - take as many quick draws as there are bolts,
with wires necessary for bolts without hangers.
To help get an idea of the commitment of a climb I am using protection
ratings similar to those in Todd Swain's Gunks Guide.
Feeling that four protection
grades aren't enough to adequately describe the climbs,
I have added a new grade, PG-13, to
reflect public consciousness aimed at protecting our
kids from getting into something that's not good for them.

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G| Good pro available every 5 feet if you desire.

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PG| Pro not always available on a continuous basis but the
hard moves should be close to protection.

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PG-13| The climb has run-outs that just might scare the shit out
of you and a fall at the crux may be a wild experience.

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R| Pro is very spaced or suspect. A fall at the wrong place
is quite possible and just might ruin your day.

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X | The hospital is located off of route 26 south near
State College. Take the 322 bypass, follow the signs.

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Diff.| Placing or clipping pro adds to the difficulty of the climb.

This scale is relative to Bellefonte climbing so don't expect exact
conformity to similar scales at other climbing areas.
Limestone has less friction than other rock and some people have
discovered the hard way that camming devices will not hold in
even the slightest flare.
Friends with Kevlar through the small holes above the
trigger tend to hold better than T.C.U.'s in a typical Bellefonte
horizontal.
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SAFETY INFO
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At practically every climbing area there are certain dangerous
climbs, situations, or scenarios that people might find
themselves in and perhaps wish they hadn't.
These situations are generally found out by the local climbing
population through the process of trial and error.
While the local climbing population generally knows about these
through word of mouth (we call each other on the phone and relate
how so and so almost died doing such and such), visiting climbers
are at risk to repeat the trial and error process. Listen close -
Limestone has less friction than most other rock and
Friends do not hold in flares, or even basically
parallel
cracks. They will rip right out, particularly in
long falls. Place them like you would place a chock with a cam
in an indentation.
Friends with stems seem to hold better in horizontals than T.C.U.'s
or wired Friends but they must be tied off with Kevlar through the
small holes above the trigger.
Use long runners on wires as they don't always set well in
this limestone and at least 3
individuals have almost died on El Crack (rated G) when they kicked
out their protection. One person missed the ground by inches and
another's life was saved by a Friend which pulled out of a flare
and miraculously caught in the crack several inches lower -
wedged by the nut on the end of the axle and the tip of a cam.
For heaven's sake, ALWAYS use a Running Belay. Before The Flake was
retro-bolted, an unfortunate climber discovered that all the pro behind
the flake rips out in a fall. His belayer saved his life by
using the running belay as it was groundfall without.
Mike Miller fell an enormous distance above the bolt on Chain Saw
Madness and was saved injury by a running belay. Kathy Davinroy's
belayer was not using one and she suffered extensive injuries when
she got off-route on this climb and broke a hold.
Do not climb Chain Saw Madness and do not do a Leopard wall route
unless you know where it goes. When in doubt - TOPROPE.
A lot of the topropes require 2 ropes if belayed from the ground -
heed the climb length info. Don't do the water routes if you can't
swim.
The bolts have been removed from Dragon's Jaw so
don't do that route and beware leading Horst routes in general.
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BOLTS
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Having placed a good number of bolts at Bellefonte, I feel well
qualified to espouse on this subject.
First let me delve into the actual hardware of the situation for those
individuals who are curious as to what they are clipping into.
I've listed the anchor's shear
strength in concrete, which is close to limestone in hardness,
coefficient of friction, and strength.

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- Early bolts -
(ancient artifacts placed by hammer, often on lead)
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1/4 inch Rawl drive| - These are contraction
bolts, which need good rock for strength (3000 lbs. in granite).
They damage the hole when you place them in limestone and
some placements are visibly bad. About three or four of
them have been tested with long falls and seem to be o.k. Found
on some of the older Friction Quarry climbs and Herr routes - 2000 lbs.

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1/4 inch wedge| - Usually with a washer instead of a hanger. These
bolts have threads on the end and stick out about an inch (they are
4 inches long). They should be good but none have been tested with any
long falls (gee, this sounds like a rather sick way to test bolts).
A few in the Friction Quarries - 1800 lbs.

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5/16 inch self-drive| - The standard Bellefonte lead bolt. They take
the same amount of time to drill as 1/4 inch with the added
advantage that you can hang from the thing once you have it half way in.
Extensively fall tested, they are the most common bolt you are likely to
encounter (we used so many the local hardware store ran out and I had
to order some from Chicago) - 3000 lbs.

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3/8 inch self-drive or stud| - A couple in the Friction Quarries and
some in the Upper Quarry. Very bomber, they took a long time to drill
or there would have been more of them - 4500 lbs.
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- New age bolts -
(placed with gas-powered hammer drill)

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3/8 inch drop in| - Most of the new bolts on the Bladerunner wall.
Highest shear strength for 3/8 hanger - 5000 lbs.
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3/8 inch wedge| - 5 inches long for places where the
bedding is thin or even for places where it isn't - 5000 lbs.

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1/2 inch wedge| - 5 and a half inches long and simply the most bomber
thing you may ever see. Giant homemade hangers out of 1/4 in. angle
complete the scene - 10,000 lbs.

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3/4 inch wedge| - 7 inches long for those "special" circumstances
(belays, bad rock, vandals) - 20,000 lbs.

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Some of the bolts on
Friction Quarry routes have large fender washers instead of hangers
and you need to use a wired nut on them (see next page).
This method works quite well and
the bolt is secure from an outward pull (not that it is possible to
place an outward force on a bolt from a Friction Quarry fall).
Lately there has been a tendency to replace or add 1/2 inch bolts to
routes that are dangerous or extremely unpopular.
This retrobolting is being done mainly for the benefit of visiting
climbers.
It seems that the vast majority of North East climbers
are reluctant to runout long distances above questionable bolts.
Fortunately,
poor quality bolts at Bellefonte are becoming a thing of the past as
we Bellefontians are currently taking great pride in our bolts
and consider our crag to be on the cutting edge of bolting
technology.
This new era of Bolting Perestroika has been initiated
in an attempt to correct, or at least balance out
the ideological excesses of the past.
Aside from the fact that visitors and locals alike are starting to
demand more and better quality bolts,
better bolts mean safer climbing - and safer climbing
helps continue access to the quarry by reducing gory
newspaper headlines.
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I suppose any self respecting guide book
author must address questions of ethics.
Although it may appear to some that the ethics at Bellefonte are
"no ethics," this is not strictly the case.
I personally feel there are only two ways to do a route.
One, from the ground up, and two, any other way.
The ethics at Bellefonte have evolved to where they
generally mirror this
thinking. The Lower Quarry and the friction routes in the Friction
Quarries have Joshua Tree ethics. A climber grabs a hammer and drill
and starts up unknown territory - hoping that that shadow you see
20 or 30 ft. above the last pro will be a drill stance. Pure, simple,
adrenaline producing adventure where success, and sometimes survival
ain't guaranteed.
Everywhere else, for all intents and purposes, the ethics are French,
although sculpting holds in order to make a
section of a route "go" or to create a climb of extreme difficulty is
in bad taste. However, spending enormous amounts of time
and money creating a 5.11 crack up a blank wall
with a concrete saw because the area
lacked a 5.11 finger crack is considered a noble proposition.
What's the difference between the two? In the first case the motivation
is ego (we Bellefontians can't stand big egos). In the second
case the motivation is, well... frankly we still haven't the slightest
idea what the motivation was but it definitely wasn't ego.
Local climbers may seem a tad eccentric to visitors for the simple
reason that we are extremely eccentric.
The Bellefonte quarries
have an awesome though still limited potential for hard routes.
It's quite possible
that several years into the future, Bellefonte may have
a greater concentration of hard routes per area of rock than any climbing
area in the east.
To achieve this goal, routes are more carefully thought out than
in the past.
A route is top-roped and bolt locations are marked out with a
magic marker to ensure the bolt can be clipped.
Early efforts on the Power Windows Wall unfortunately
resulted in two R rated routes
(no reason in the world for this on rappel bolted
routes), and two
routes in which it is impossible to clip the crux bolts as
they are off route.
I have nothing against R rated routes - that are created from the ground
up. If you are going to be wimpy and put up
routes from rappel, at least
create logical, well protected climbs so others can enjoy your "find."
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VEGETATION
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The general rule of thumb concerning vegetation is - if it grows,
kill it (wild flowers excluded).
Now this may seem a bit contrary to what you may have read
in some of those nature-oriented climbing magazines, but I'm thinking
of the future of the area.
A limestone cliff in a humid temperate climate such as exists in Centre
County is just not a very stable geological feature.
The single greatest factor working to turn our nice clean cliff into a
vegetated pile of loose rock and dirt isn't acid rain, it's plants.
These little nasties secrete substances through their roots that quickly
act to turn limestone into dirt.
The roots also wedge their way between bedding planes and pry the rock
apart (the recent rockfall right of Vertical Paths
was caused by a tree).
The individual leading the war on vegetation is Mike Miller whose
exploits against green leafy matter are legendary.
Woe behold any chlorophyll-using life form that manages to arouse Mike's
ire.
On an early ascent of Bladerunner, Mike managed to fall into the large
tree growing directly behind the route.
Flying into a rage he ripped off a large branch with his bare hands.
A few weeks later this tree mysteriously disappeared into thin air.
Thanks to Mike's machete the base of any route 20 ft. in each
direction is spotlessly clean.
If you have any complaints about the gardening or if any plant
particularly offends you, feel free to call Mike at the vegetation
hotline 359-2930.

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GRAFFITI
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Now we get to a real sore spot as far as everyone is concerned.
Again, the rule of thumb is - if you see people spray painting, kill
them.
Graffiti has been around for a long time at Bellefonte and a lot of the
climbs on the Beginner's Wall were actually named for the graffiti near
them.
Lately the problem has been getting much worse as it seems that New York
subway attitudes have been catching the imagination of a group of bold
and daring young rappellers (gag).
Persons caught in the act should be chastised immediately by all climbers
present (hopefully Mike will be there with his machete).
Sliced and diced graffiti artists probably make good fish food.
And speaking of fish, this brings me to my next topic...
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WILDLIFE
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- Animals smaller than a bread box -
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Fish:| Surprisingly the pool in the Upper Quarry supports a large
aquatic population. Several large (over a foot) bass have been seen
so if you fish (do climbers fish?) you might want to
bring your pole (no license
needed). Lately Mike Miller and myself have discovered a rather curious
jellyfish-like thing inhabiting the pool. This delicate and
beautiful creature is about the size of a quarter, transparent with a
cross on its body. No one I know has the slightest idea what it is.
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Snakes:| In all my years of climbing at Bellefonte I have never
encountered a poisonous snake, or one large enough to swallow a
human whole for that matter.
Apparently Rick Mix has had an amusing encounter and if you see him
you simply must ask him to tell you the story.
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Birds:| In the spring
and fall you might be lucky enough to climb to the accompaniment of
birds of prey whose shrill calls are just the perfect
sound to accompany a Leopard Wall climb. Nearby Bald Eagle ridge
provides excellent soaring conditions for the birds as well as
gliders and hang-gliders.

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- Animals larger than a bread box -
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Dirt bikers:| These curious and noisy life forms show up on a rather
regular basis on weekends. They are only slightly annoying since they
tend to circle the island once, throw two or three rocks in the water,
and promptly leave - their purpose in life fulfilled.
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Rambo understudys:| Armed to the teeth, these crazed individuals
on occasion use the Lower Quarry to act out their survival fantasies
(the Lower Quarry does have that after-the-bomb look).
I'm not referring to the local deer hunter, American Rifleman-types
who usually are polite, friendly and safety conscious.
Once in a blue moon, however, some guy decked out with enough hardware
to supply a small third-world country will show up and make everyone
nervous. Fortunately they don't stay around long since Rock Climbers
seem to be a threat to their macho image and high-caliber ammo is just
too expensive for casual shooting on a moron's salary.
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THE RUNNING BELAY
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The running belay is a technique to cut down the length of a fall when
climbing on rock with spaced protection.
Using the running belay is simple - when the climber falls you lock
up a belay plate and take off running like a bat out of hell.
This belay has so many advantages that I use it on all
occasions.
The technique works best on lower-angled rock but any time
a belayer has time to run and take out slack, even a couple feet,
the fall will be shortened.
The first rule of thumb when using a running belay is: don't tie
yourself into a tree or something.
This may seem obvious but I'm surprised at the existing dogma that a
climber must be tied to some large tree while belaying someone off
the ground.
It's hard enough running through piles of scree without having to drag
a large tree along with you.
The second rule is: don't trip.
The running belay is a bit more hazardous than other belaying techniques
in that the belayer can end up getting hurt more seriously than the
leader.
The third rule is to use a belay plate or figure-8 so if you violate
rule number two you won't lose the rope.
Also, it's important to
use a waist-high directional at the base to maximize the
amount of the rope you can take in.
Last but not least, don't try a running belay on the second
pitch of anything.
The best way I've found to get converts to this belay is
to occasionally
"not" use the running belay. "Hey, how come I fell so far that time?"

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NEW ROUTES
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If you plan on putting up routes at Bellefonte be advised of the
current views toward the style of first ascents.
Ground up routes are highly regarded and considered sacred - sort
of like the Flag, apple pie and Bloom County cartoons.
They cannot be altered in any way without permission of the FFA
party except to replace rusted or ripped out fixed pro.
On the other hand, rap created routes
aren't sacred and at the whims of
the local population, may be rebolted, rerouted, renamed, reclaimed,
rejected, or respected.
In this way, ground up routes are given more meaning and
rap routes will be assured of maintaining the
status they deserve, e.g. that of a carnival amusement ride.
In capitalist countries, if the ride doesn't cut it, it doesn't last.
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MAIN QUARRY AREA
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The main quarry area consists of three distinct quarries which are
very old and have been inactive for over 50 years.
Parking for these quarries has always been and most probably will
continue to be - strange. You used to be able to drive up to the
Lower Quarry by following the dirt road which parallels the fence along
the north side of the Cerro Plant. They had blocked this road off but
recently it has been opened and
you can drive all the way into the Lower Quarry where the
township is storing dirt that they dug up for a sewage treatment
plant. Talk about gardening! We had felt a little bad about chopping
down trees in the Lower Quarry but in a very short time this has
become a moot concept. The dirt configuration in the Lower Quarry keeps
changing (at one point you could
park right next to the Leopard Wall) but
you should have no problem traversing what Rick Mix has dubbed "The
Gumbu Mudfall" as walking paths have sprung up all through it.
In case the road is blocked it is still possible to drive (4-wheel)
into the Upper Quarry
by following jeep trails
starting from Howard street near the Death Star Quarry or from
a steep jeep trail just off the road behind the Unimart.
These roads are
not recommended and are confusing to follow as they tend to branch off
into a maze of dirt roads.
I have shown a crude sketch of their general location
on the map in case of some need to evacuate someone.
If you are now totally confused just park at the Penn State Sub shop
and walk along the dirt road north of the Cerro Plant for about 200
yards, the Lower Quarry will be visible on the
left. You can continue up the road to the Upper Quarry,
but it is shorter to walk through the Lower Quarry.
Climb up scree and follow a path up a steep hill at the far end of
the Lower Quarry to reach the Upper Quarry.
The most prominent
features you will notice as you walk into the Upper Quarry are
the large pool of water on the left and the S.C. face.
The easiest way to the top of the cliffs is a path at the right end
of the Beginner's Wall.
Dirt roads that lead back to the Death Star Quarry can be reached from
this path.
.pa
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.pf
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.h2
THE DEATH STAR QUARRY
.rt top even /%/DEATH STAR QUARRY//
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.bf text

The Death Star Quarry is a long narrow quarry with vertical walls,
somewhat resembling the canyon that Luke Skywalker had to fly through
to blast the reactor port and destroy the Death Star (boy, what an
imagination this guidebook author has).
I am listing this quarry first since it is the eastern-most of a line of
quarries which will be listed east to west. All climbs in this guide are
listed east to west when looking south (left to right when facing the
cliff).
This ordering may run contrary to the direction in which you
actually enter some of the quarries, but at least
it's logical and consistent.
Most of the climbing
in this quarry has been in the western end.
There are 2 levels to the quarry here and all route activity has been
on the upper level although the lower level in the far western end
has some hard boulder and top-rope problems.
The eastern end, known as the Hueco Wall, is separated from the
western end by a small swamp and has only recently become popular.
The grassy meadow at the Hueco Wall adds a particular ambience to
the climbing that is enhanced by the availability of lawn chairs,
sofas, and belay mattresses courtesy of some farmer who has graciously
dumped a large pile of flea market quality junk near the swamp.
With the large supply of building material it's only a matter of
time before industrious locals build a bridge across the swamp so
you can traverse it without getting your feet wet.
The recommended approach to this quarry is to follow a dirt road east
from the Upper Quarry area above the Miller - Davinroy staircase.
This road follows a tree line on the left and parallels the strike of
the quarry.
After a hundred yards follow the road when it turns right (southeast).
Soon, you need to go left
onto a grassy path before the trail steepens downhill (when in doubt
go left). Follow the poorly defined
grassy trail to a farmer's field and the eastern
end of the quarry will be visible to the right.
If you miss the turn-off to the grassy path the road will fork around a
tree and if it isn't the summer-vegetation-season you can bushwack left
to the western end of the quarry from here (this is not recommended).
.pa
.in 1
.h1
New! BROWN COW IN A BLACK HOLE 5.10c (35 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| At the left end of the Hueco Wall there is a diagonal crack
which peters out for a five feet section near the top with a bolt up
left of where the crack stops. Follow the crack, negotiate
the blank section (go left then back right) then top out up right
where the crack becomes a solution pocket.
.h2
PRO:| #1,2 Friends, one 3/8 in bolt SMC hanger.
.us 3
Some tricky climbing requiring good footwork, the crack is some
strange climbing.
FFA: JB, Bob Hostetter - Spring 88.

.h1
1. DEAD PIGS IN SPACE 5.10c (45 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Near the left end of the Hueco Wall there is a
solution hole resembling an eye about 10 ft. off the ground. A hard
boulder problem to gain this hold then go up left to a stance on a
diagonal ramp. Continue up and left to a left leaning diagonal crack.
.h2
PRO:| #1,2,3 Friends and some T.C.U.'s
.us 10
Some strenuous and interesting climbing. Oh, by the way, this
italicized section of the description is what I like to refer to as
the comment section. What goes in this section depends entirely on
what mood I was in when I wrote it.
If I wrote up the description right after
doing the route this section is quite flowery. If I can't
remember anything about it or had an off-day and couldn't get up the
first move as is the case with this route, this section can be
quite terse.
FFA: MMc, RM - Spring 87.

.h1
2. HYPERSPACE 5.10d (45 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| 50 feet right of DEAD PIGS IN SPACE, do very hard moves to
gain good holds at a horizontal and then a difficult stand up.
A hard move up and to the left to gain a right leaning crack.
Follow the incut crack to a ledge.
.h2
PRO:| #1 Friend and #5 Tricam or medium Hex.
.us 3
This route may be easier if you start farther left and traverse
into the holds below the horizontal.
FFA: RM, JB - Spring 87.
.pa
.h1
New! PEACOCK NEBULAE 5.10d (45 ft.) PG DIFF
.h2
Start:| 30 feet right of HYPERSPACE there are two large, long, and
obvious
heuco ledges 10 ft. off the ground. Ten feet left of these ledges
climb the wall. There is a good pocket above a thin vertical crack
which accepts a #2 Tricam.
.h2
PRO:| Wires, #2 Tricam, .5 Friend.
.us 2
Quite difficult, technical, unusual, strenuous and strange.
FFA: RM, Mike J - Spring 88.

.h1
New! UNNAMED 5.9 A3 (45 ft.)
.h2
Start:| Somewhere to the left of Pigs in a Pile, MMo and Grant Phillips
aided the wall.
.h2
PRO:| Hooks, stuff.
.us 2
I haven't the slightest idea where this is but I'll refrain from making
something up like other less scrupulous guide book authors often do.

.h1
3. PIGS IN A PILE 5.11c (55 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| A very straight, 3-inch wide shallow crack near the right
end of the Hueco Wall. There is a belay mattress that bridges the
shallow ditch at the base. A difficult start then good finger jams
up to the wide crack.
.h2
PRO:| #1, 1.5 Friends, 2 bolts with hangers.
.us 4
Gaining the wide crack is the crux and you will need a good reserve of
strength to see this climb to the end.
Destined to become a Bellefonte classic.
FFA: RM, JB - Spring 87.

.h1
4. FISH DREAMS 5.10d (65 ft.) PG Diff
.h2
Start:| Just left of the big corner there is a crack that zig-zags
up left then gains a finger crack in a calcite seam.
.h2
PRO:| Good selection of Friends in the #1 - #2 range
with 1/2 size and T.C.U.'s useful.
.us 4
MM discovered that titanium Friends
leave a long trail of sparks as they are ripped out of
the cracks on this route. Good route for the fourth of July.
FFA: MM, TD - Spring 87.
.pa
.h1
5. S.D.I. CRACK 5.12b (50 ft.) PG Diff
.h2
Start:| About 50 ft. left of DARTH VADER there is a small crack that
arches up to the left. Follow the crack which starts out 5.10 and
soon turns into one-arm cranks on two-finger jams.
.h2
PRO:| #.5, #1 Friends, med Stoppers, T.C.U.'s.
.us 9
Pennsylvania's Super Crack, this was originally done on aid by
Bob Romanovich, AKA Ego Bob, who apparently didn't mind leaving
a rack of pins on this climb because they weren't his.
If you are reading this Glen Thomas, your pins have found their
way onto many classic routes as fixed pro. Bellefonte thanks Bob
for your contribution.
S.D.I. stands for Strategic Digital Insertion -
you may find that strategic footwork is equally important.
FFA: EH - Spring 89.

.h1
New! LA PETITE MORT 5.12d (50 ft.)
.h2
Start:| Twenty feet left of Darth Vader there is a sort of a corner.
.h2
PRO:| 4, 3/8 in. bolts, wires perhaps.
.us
This route should be orgasmic
provided you can work out the beta. FFA: Bob Hostetter - Summer 89.

.h1
6. DARTH VADER 5.11d/5.12a (50 ft.) PG DIFF
.h2
Start:| About 100 ft. right of the big corner at a finger jam crack that
becomes 4 inches in the middle and disappears near the top. A hard start
to gain the crack then difficult jamming.
The finish up to the right is desperate - may the force be with you.
.h2
PRO:| #1,2,3 Friends.
.us 3
A beautifully hard climb on a beautifully hard wall.
You have to be very strong for this one.
FFA: EH, JB - Fall 86.

.h1
The 5.12 Wall Challenge:
Top rope S.D.I., Darth Vader, Lesson in Layback,
and La Petite Mort in a afternoon. Are your biceps
man (or woman) enough?
Can you say Jello Pudding?
How about Humble Pie?
If you are looking for a workout this is the place.
Few areas have such an incredible concentration of
easy to top-rope, extreme climbing as that found on the 5.12 wall.
.pa
.h1
7. A LESSON IN LAYBACK 5.12b/c (50 ft.) PG DIFF
.h2
Start:| The 2-inch wide crack about 15 ft. right of DARTH VADER.
Hard moves up on two pockets to a bolt, then a hard move to gain the
crack. Up the crack (hard) to a horizontal
with a fixed pin. Stem over left to the exit crack with desperate
topping-out on jello arms.
.h2
PRO:| 5/16 inch bolt with washer,
fixed pin, #2.5, #3, #1.5 Friends.
.us 2
Laybacking is the only technique that seems to work on this
devious climb. FFA: EH, JB - Fall 86.

.h1
New! COLD WAR A3+ (45 ft.)
.h2
Start:| Bolt at hairline crack 20 ft. left of PRINCESS LEIA.
.h2
PRO:| 3/8 bolt w/o hanger, blades, rurps, Lost Arrows, hooks.
.us 2
Bash this up so we can have a 5.13 crack climb.
Obviously more moral than sawing a crack. FA: Wagg, JB, Winter 89.

.h1
8. PRINCESS LEIA 5.5 (45 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| The very large detached, right facing flake near the
western end of the quarry.
.h2
PRO:| Perhaps if you had some large tube chocks.
.us
Loose, scary, and would you believe the first route done here.

.h1
9. NEW AND DIFFERENT 5.9+ (45 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The vertical crack just right of PRINCESS LEIA.
.h2
PRO:| #1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 Friends, large stoppers or med Tricams.
.us 4
Tricky climbing. The crux is getting onto the ledge visible near
the top which is much harder than it looks. Stay left to get handholds
higher up and it's much easier. The very top is rather loose.
FFA: JB, MMo - Winter 87.

.h1
10. BANANA CRACK 5.9 (45 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The right curving crack 15 ft. right of PRINCESS LEIA.
.h2
PRO:| Friends.
.us 3
I haven't done this and Eric's memory on this one is a bit vague.
The official beta is moderate and a bit loose.
FFA: EH, HA, JT - Spring 83.
.in -1
.pa
.pf
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.us
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UPPER QUARRY
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.bf text
By far the most popular Bellefonte climbing area.
You are almost guaranteed to run into other climbers on nice weekends.
Bellefonte climbers are traditionally very friendly and helpful so
you should have no problem soliciting info about a particular climb.
And if I catch anyone acting unfriendly and
snobbish I'll personally drop a rock on them
(Bellefonte climbers are also known to be temperamental).
An outstanding feature of the Upper Quarry is the large pool of deep
water which makes this area an excellent place to climb in hot weather.
The grease-proof nature of the limestone enables ascents of hard routes
under Cambodia-like
conditions and a swim afterwards is an indescribable
pleasure.
Jumping off the cliff into the water
is encouraged but don't jump off past the S.C. face as there are
several cars at the bottom.
The recent fad is to downclimb Voices from the Deep, hang your
clothes from the bolt and jump in from the belay.
This avoids the walk around to the opposite side which is the usual
place to get in.
In spring and after heavy rains there is usually a waterfall cascading
down this side of the quarry.
If you wish to keep your water bottles cool on hot summer days,
there is a talus ice cave past El Crack where you can store
them by lowering them in with a rope.
Descent from the top is accomplished by walking down
paths on either side
of the quarry, or downclimbing the class 4 gully near SC.
Every major climbing area has a class 4 gully that people scramble up
with a pack and sneakers, sometimes scaring themselves silly because
they're too lazy or macho to hike up around the side of the cliff.
The path at the right end of the quarry
receives the most traffic yet
can sometimes be difficult to locate from the bottom as
it is crowded with shrubbery.
The path at the far left end is the quickest descent for climbs left
of Left Hand Eliminate.
This path used to be a steep muddy horror show until Mike Miller and
Tom Davinroy constructed some steps (large steps) on the upper part.
More recently a slightly larger group of misguided individuals
finished the middle section of this elaborate path. Feel
free to bring shovels, picks and other implements of destruction
to finish the bottom if you are feeling civic minded.
.pa
The following climbs labeled R.I.P. (may they rest in peace) were
destroyed in the large rock avalanche which occured on a very rainy
first of May, 1989. We all knew this bed would come off some day as
the bottom was unsupported and small parts fell down occasionaly.
Nonetheless, we were all quite shocked by the magnitude of this event.

.in 1
.h1
R.I.P. THE BLOODY END 5.9+ (35 ft.) PG
This used to be a short but intense crack at the extreme
left end of the quarry. It wasn't very popular as bleeding was
fundamental and so will not be greatly missed.

.h1
R.I.P. THE BITTER END 5.9 (50 ft.) G
This was a very classic jam crack that was very popular with
locals and visitors. Formerly climb number 11, located at the
far left end of the cliff, a hairline crack now exists on the newly
exposed bed where this climb used to be. This route was unquestionably
a Bellefonte classic and one of the first hard leads for many people.
The Bitter End will be sorely missed by all who lost skin on it's
wonderful jams. Last ascent, Ron B., Becca W. - April 30, 1989.

.h1
R.I.P. CIVIL ENGINEERING 5.9- (55 ft.) PG
This was also a classic Bellefonte climb and it's undercling crack
is where the bed broke loose and slid down.
The only feature left of this climb is the small hole which used to
be a large ledge. Originally
this ledge used to be occupied with several cubic yards of dirt,
grass and a small tree which was
removed on rappel (have you ever shoveled while hanging
from a rope?) by myself and Mike "The Gardener" Miller.
No, we were not sober at the time.
Amazingly the 5/16 in. bolt on the climb survived, despite being
pounded by many tons of rock (the hanger is flat as a pancake).
FFA: JB, RB - Spring 85.
Last ascent, Ron B., Becca W. - April 30, 1989.

.h1
Direct start:| The boulder problem start (by TD) to Civil Engineering
should still be intact but is buried under quite a bit of rock.
.pa
.h1
Coming Soon? DEATH ROUTE
The rockfall made a new corner with a layback crack. The
upper undercling under a huge questionable
block looks suicide and blasting may be employed to remove this
hazard. I have a feeling it is going to be a long time before anyone
works up the nerve to climb this, or even rap down to look at this
thing.

.h1
Coming Soon! OVERLORD 5.12d (90 ft.) PG
From the third bolt on HEADS AND TAILS, go straight up past bolts
and follow the small crack. A bit on the strenuous side for an
Upper Quarry climb but very chic. Finger size should play a role
in determining whether you will like this climb.
Fortunately the rockfall does not seem to have affected this route.
FTA: JB Spring 89.

.h1
13. HEADS AND TAILS 5.11c (250 ft.) PG-13 Diff.
.h2
Start:| Just right of the newely formed scar, there is a vertical crack
which leads to a finger traverse crack.
Due to the rock fall, the start of this route is a bit easier than
in the past.
.h2
Pitch 1:| Follow the finger crack traverse and
climb past 3 bolts with a hard move (because
your fingers feel like jello) after the third bolt.
Continue over to EL CRACK (5.11c, PG-13 Diff).
.h2
Pitch 2:| Continue following the crack
over to a hanging bolt belay station before the
bolt route.(5.11c, PG Diff).
.h2
Pitch 3:| Go right to a fixed pin, then climb
up on micro holds left of the bolt ladder.
(5.11c, PG Diff.)
.h2
PRO:| To WHITE LINE is fixed (thank God). Clipping the second and third
bolts are experiences not to be missed.
The rest of the climb requires a selection of Friends or Tri Cams (big
stuff handy) and some wires. There are some run-outs.
.us 8
Pennsylvania's Astroman,
this forearm pumper is like running a marathon on your fingers.
This magnificent adventure will test your endurance and willpower on a
deep primal level. If you don't follow the cardinal rule of Bellefonte
finger traverses you don't stand a ghost of a chance on this route.
MM probably has the first lead but no one has redpointed all 3 pitches.
.pa
.h1
14. WHITE LINE FEVER 5.12a (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Three parallel calcite-filled seams 50 ft. left of EL CRACK.
If you have trouble getting off the ground you have found the climb.
Follow the poor excuse for a crack with a good rest at the halfway mark.
There is a tricky scary mantle near the top.
.h2
PRO:| Lots of RP's and small wires, #1 Friends.
.us 3
A very hard start with a very hard middle section and a very hard end
makes this a very hard climb. The first and most classic 5.12 here.
FFA: Russ Clune, ?

.h1
15. EL CRACKITAN 5.9+ (85 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Very obvious finger jam crack. You can't miss it.
.h2
PRO:| Medium wires below the horizontal, #2 Friend size above.
.us 12
Finger jamming at the bottom, hand jamming at the top. The Ultimate
reason for your existence as a climber is to do this climb. However a
recent controversy has cast a cloud of uncertainty over this route.
A certain climber who shall remain nameless (you reading this, Eric
Horst?) insists that this climb is 5.10.
I am equally insistent that
the climb is 5.9 (Mike Miller thinks the route is 5.8 but he hit his
head recently and is crazy so his vote doesn't count). To put an end
to this whole ugly affair I am asking you the reader to cast your vote
as to the climb's grading. To vote for 5.10 call 1-900-555-5510. To
vote for 5.9 call 1-900-555-5559. Each call costs 50: and you may call
as many times as you like. Read the safety info on page 5.

.h1
16. THE BOLT ROUTE A3 (90 ft.)
.h2
Start:| If you look closely enough you will see a line of bolts about
half way between EL CRACK and COLEMAN. This is not a complete
bolt ladder so some aid climbing skills are necessary.
.h2
PRO:| Take some Knifeblades for the sections without bolts.

.in -1
It is recommended by the management of the Bellefonte Quarry Association
that you endeavor to read the safety info on page 5.
Failure to do so may constitute negligence - thank you.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
Very New! MANUFRACTURED 5.11c (75 ft.) PG
.h2
AKA:| To Saw or Not to Be, Rent-All, Chop that Johnny Rock,
I Came I Sawed I Conquered, Blazing Diamonds etc.....
.h2
Start:| Just left of Welcome to Bedrock is a fairly obvious crack
in three sections. Reach the crack via 2 incut pockets (5.7).
.h2
PRO:| 5, 3/8 in. bolts and some wires if you want.
.us 3
Well what can I possibly say about this route? To sum it all up
- It cost 80 bucks.
FFA: EH, GT, JB - Summer 88.

.h1
New! ELF'N MAGIC 5.12d/5.13a (75 ft.) G
.h2
Totally blank face 30 ft. right of Manufractured (follow bolts).
.h2
PRO:| 8, 3/8 in. bolts.
.us 3
Bring lots of fairy dust to coat the miniscule holds
abounding on this route. Unfortunately, many holds have broken off
recently. FA: JB, RM - Spring 89.

.h1
17. WELCOME TO BEDROCK 5.10a (180 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| At the bolt route there is a horizontal crack about 5 ft. off
the ground that continues up to the right over to COLEMAN.
.h2
Pitch 1:| Gain the crack as far right as your height will allow,
finger traverse right past a fixed pin and belay at a stance with 2
bolts. (5.8+ G Diff)
.h2
Pitch 2:| Continue right over to COLEMAN (more difficult) and finish
on that climb. (5.10a PG Diff)
.h2
PRO:| RP's, several #1, and 1/2 Friends, wires.
.us 5
Very enjoyable and aesthetic. This climb had
been done years ago as an aid route (Dawn Wall). All in all a very
beautiful place to be and a wonderful adventure. If you feel that
the first pitch was at your limit, I suggest you rap off the belay.
FFA: JB, RM - Summer 86.

.h1
The Ultimate Forearm Test V 5.11:
Do all the finger traverses (5) in a day.
These consist of climbs number 13, 17, 60, 62, and 64.
Before you attempt this however I suggest you seek professional
counseling and also let one of the locals attempt to
talk you out of such a stupid idea.
.pa
.h1
New! DASH OR CRASH 5.11d (20 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 20 feet right of the start to Welcome to Bedrock, climb the
blank face with one protection bolt. Finish on Welcome to Bedrock
or better yet, rap off the one bolt up left which was installed just
for such a purpose.
.h2
PRO:| 1, 3/8 inch bolt, Wires, #1 Friends.
.us 2
Very thin.
FFA: RM, JB - Summer 88.

.h1
New! LOVELY BUT LECHEROUS 5.12b (50 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Below and to the left of the bolt belay on Welcome to Bedrock
there are 2 bolts up a blank wall. Finger traverse in from the left
and follow the bolts.
.h2
PRO:| 2, 3/8 inch bolts, wires or #1 Friend and #1 TCU.
.us 4
This route will probably find popularity as it is very difficult yet
short and very well protected. One of the hardest single moves at
Bellefonte.
FFA: JB, RM - Summer 88.

.h1
New! JESUS LEAPT 5.11d/5.12a (50 ft.) G
.h2
AKA:| African Cats Can't Mantle.
.h2
Start:| Look for three bolts just left of Trickster and right of the
Welcome to Bedrock belay. Climb up the horizontals left of Trickster
and follow the bolts. Finish by going left to the Welcome to Bedrock
belay. You don't need pro in the Welcome to Bedrock crack as the
second can unclip the third bolt 'after' making the lunge into the
crack.
.h2
PRO:| 3, 3/8 inch bolts, wires/Friends/TCU's in the lower horizontals.
.us 10
This climb is blessed with 3 bolts and 3 wild moves separated
by stances. Considerable theological debate has been sparked by this
route - i.e. if Jesus climbed would he have to dyno? Anyway, when done
properly, the lunge into the Welcome to Bedrock crack seems to be
aided by some
mysterious anti-gravity force. Short people don't despair, the mantle
move is particularly hard for tall people (and African cats).
Please try this route - with a little patience you will get up, and it
will make you smile.
FFA: RM, JB - Summer 88.
.pa
.h1
18. TRICKSTER 5.12c (110 ft.) R Diff.
.h2
Start:| Twenty five feet left of COLEMAN, and left of a vertical
white calcite filled crack, climb up a series of horizontals. You
should be able to see a fixed blade that sticks out about 30 ft. up.
The initial section is relatively easy but it gets hard fast.
Follow the crack-like feature with very few rests.
.h2
PRO:| Why in the hell would anyone want to lead this thing?
.us 7
Very hard, somewhat contrived and definitely painful.
Take wires, T.C.U.'s to lead - there is at least one bolt.
TD describes the technique to place pro on this as:
grab a biner of wires, hold it near the crack, shake vigorously and
uncontrollably with fear and total exhaustion, and clip into whatever
sticks to the crack.
FFA: TH, HH, MP - 1984? Redpoint?

.h1
19. COLEMAN IS A FAGGOT 5.10b/c (125 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Behind a small tree (unless Mike Miller got to it) left of
Fester Heart Dreaming there is a relatively obvious crack broken by a
series of horizontals. Follow the crack the whole way with the crux
section about halfway up. It eases off when the crack curves right
and becomes bomber jamming.
.h2
PRO:| This is a long route and you can empty tons of stuff progressing
from lots of RP's at the bottom, to #1 Friends at the top.
.us 4
The second ultimate reason for your existence as a climber is to do
this route. It's not as hard as it looks and the horizontals provide
rests. The jamming at the top is unreal. As good as any climb
anywhere. FFA: Mike Warner, ?

.h1
20. JOINT DISLOCATOR 5.11b (135 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| From the last horizontal on COLEMAN, finger traverse left and
finish on the pinky-sized crack that makes up the last part of
TRICKSTER. Also know as Finger Stinger.
.h2
PRO:| #1 T.C.U.'s as the crack is smaller than 1/2 Friend size.
.us 3
This climb is hell on the digits.
If the pro rips from this small crack you're gonna get hurt.
FFA: HH, ? - Summer 82?
.pa
.h1
Coming Soon! THE WEASEL'S EDGE 5.11c (105 ft.)
The edge that makes up the right end of the Coleman face has
been top roped and is quite interesting. FTR: JB, RM - Fall 88.

.h1
21. FESTER HEART DREAMING 5.9 (120 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Left of BARNEY RUBBLE, there is a small layback
corner facing right with a roof and an undercling about 25 ft. up.
Go up the corner then traverse the undercling over to BARNEY RUBBLE.
.h2
PRO:| #3 Friends are very handy for the undercling.
.us 2
This route is rather strenuous and not done that much.
FFA: KK - long ago.

.h1
22. BARNEY RUBBLE 5.7 (120 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| This climb goes up the edge of the big corner that makes up
LEFT HAND ELIMINATE. Start about 7 ft. right of the edge, go up about
5 ft. and hand traverse left back over to the edge. Climb up the edge,
then follow the right facing corner.
.h2
PRO:| A bolt protects the exciting part up the edge to the undercling.
A #3 Friend at the undercling crux and
#2 size Friend stuff protects the upper jam crack.
.us 4
Very fun and exposed climbing. The upper jam crack is a bit
awkward though. This climb just might be a candidate for an additional
bolt to make it G rated.
FFA: JB, GT - Spring 83.

.h1
23. SUZY 5.9 (120 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| This climb goes up a crack on the big right-facing face left of
LEFT HAND ELIMINATE. Start about 9 ft. left of LEFT HAND, follow the
crack and traverse over to the edge at a good stance.
.h2
PRO:| Friends.
.us 3
Done long ago by Ken Kruickshank and I don't think it's been repeated.
If you do decide to climb this be on the lookout for loose rock.
FFA: KK, ?

.in -1
"Coming Soon" means we've top-roped the route but haven't got around
to leading it before this edition. FTA = First top-rope ascent.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
24. LEFT HAND ELIMINATE 5.7+ (100 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| The very obvious crack in the big corner. You can layback
the whole way and jam to rest. Take care that you don't jam so well
that you end up with a fixed shoe.
.h2
PRO:| There are some natural chockstones to sling lower and the middle
part is about #3 Friend size. Good med chocks and #1, #2 Friends fit
near the top on the right wall.
.us 6
This climb is obviously a major classic but since when is a 100 ft.
layback fun? Nevertheless, this route is historically one of the
most ascended leads at Bellefonte. Although in appearance this climb
closely resembles the Seneca Rocks classic, Triple-S, the climbing is
very different due to the size of the crack and the reduced angle.
FFA: Mike Steel, Mack Kirk, Jim Keller, 1973.

.h1
25. VERTICAL PATHS 5.11b (105 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| This is the very thin vertical crack about 10 ft. right of LEFT
HAND ELIMINATE.
You gain the crack by following a right traverse about
10 ft. up LEFT HAND ELIMINATE.
Alternatively, a direct start is possible via a washered bolt about
10 ft. right of the corner. At a small bush about 15 ft. from the
top follow a finger traverse right 10 ft. to another crack and up this
to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Small wires and two complete sets of RP's.
.us 5
A very nice route with fairly
good protection. Primarily face not crack.
This is the route that introduced 5.11 to Bellefonte. Strangely enough,
5.12 was already here.
FFA: HH, ?

.h1
New! DABBLING IN LIFE 5.11d (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Follow the fairly obvious line of bolts near the right side
of the Vertical Paths face and finish on the right Vertical Paths
crack.
.h2
PRO:| 5, 3/8 inch bolts, RP's and Wires.
.us 4
Increasing difficult, super thin moves lead to the very technical
crux sequence above the last bolt. Quite a classic route with great pro.
Everyone throughout the land should line up to do this baby.
FFA: JB, JN, Rich Pleiss, Ron B., MM - Summer 88.
.pa
.h1
New! CRUISE CONTROL 5.12a (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Follow Dabbling in Life up to the horizontal above the second
to last bolt. Clip this bolt with a long runner, finger traverse
right a few feet, and then stand up in the horizontal at
a good foothold with a bolt just
to your right. Climb past two more bolts to the top.
.h2
PRO:| 7, 3/8 inch bolts, #5 RP (optional).
.us 3
Strange sequences, big buckets that somehow don't make the climb easier,
and a few sucker holds will certainly test your cruising ability on this
route. FFA: JB, RM - Summer 88.

.h1
26. THE LAST DINOSAUR 5.9 (100 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Climb the dark face just left of the scrub filled gully and
right of the right facing corner formed by rockfall. Pull the
roof at the corner and follow the crack system above which arches right.
.h2
PRO:| RP's and small Stoppers in the vertical cracks down low and a
good selection of Friends and Stoppers.
.us 4
Previously thought extinct, this recent climb yields to natural
pro. Although this route may seem scary, you
should note that Ron Bayline has lead it.
FFA: MM, JB - Winter 87.

.h1
New! CHUTES AND LADDERS 5.4 (95 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Follow three bolts up the arete comprising the right side of
the broken gully which is about 50 ft. right of the Left Hand Eliminate
corner. Trend right near the top and be careful of loose rock.
.h2
PRO:| 3, 3/8 inch bolts, wide variety of stuff near top.
.us 4
The only easy climb in the back part of the quarry.
This route has the dubious distinction of being one of the only rap
bolted 5.4's in existence.
FFA: Wes M, JB - Summer 88.

.in -1
.bd
Contest Rules:
Somewhere in this guidebook,
Eric Horst has graciously hidden a secret message which explains his
success as a climber. The first person to actually point out this hidden
message to JB, while in one of the Bellefonte quarries,
will win 2 pounds of Endo chalk. Girlfriends and other people with
undue coercive influence over JB are ineligible as well as anyone whose
name is in this book.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
New! DANCING IN THE PUPPY'S JAWS 5.11a (20 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| From on top of a small block ten feet right of the broken gully
and left of Dragons Jaw. Follow a small seam past 2 bolts up and left
to the first bolt on Chutes. Downclimb the gully (5.0).
.h2
PRO:| 3, 3/8 inch bolts.
.us 2
A cute, unpretentious little route.
FFA: JB, RM - Summer 88.

.h1
New! DANCING ON CAT PAWS 5.11d (35 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| From on top of a small block just right of the gully and left of
Dragons Jaw (same as the previous route). Climb up and right
past bolts to a stance almost at Dragons Jaw.
Continue up and left to the second bolt on Chutes and Ladders.
.h2
PRO:| 5, 3/8 inch bolts.
.us 3
An intense little full-bodied route which could be used to bypass the
death section of Dragons Jaw were one inclined to do that route (which
I don't recommend as we stole all the hangers). FFA: RM, JB - Summer 88.

.h1
27. DANCING IN THE DRAGON'S JAW 5.12c (105 ft.) R Diff
- (previously POLYGRIPT - A4)
.h2
Start:| Just right of the gully with the rock fall there is a very thin
crack with bolts visible. Climb up the crack on very hard face climbing
past 3 bolts. Continue up past 2 fixed pins then up and right aiming for
a good hold. Climb up to an actual crack below some vegetation, passing
the veg on the right, then easy up to the top.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts, 2 fixed pins, RP's, small Stoppers, running belay.
The hangers may be missing or perhaps it may be retrobolted.
.us 6
FA: Mike Pantelich, 83. Redpoint?: EH,KD Fall 86
"How cheerfully he seems to grin,
How neatly spreads his claws,
And welcomes little fishes in,
With gently smiling jaws!"
- Lewis Carroll

.ce
Few guidebooks have safety info like that found on page 5.
.pa
.h1
28. POWER WINDOWS 5.12d (105 ft.) PG-13 Diff
.h2
Start:| About 25 ft. right of DRAGONS JAW and directly below 3
holes in the bedding plane about 25 ft. up. Climb up to a bolt behind a
tree then hard up to a second bolt 4 ft. higher. Very hard moves up and
right to gain the window.
Moderately
hard climbing to the next double-bolts then another hard sequence to
gain a two-finger bucket up to the left where you clip (oh really?)
the bolt to your
right. Another hard sequence to the last bolt then easing only
slightly on a run-out with a Stopper possible in a small crack.
Again hard up to a real crack with a 1/2 Friend, then up
to an unfriendly top out.
.h2
PRO:| Eight 5/16 in. bolts with no hangers, small Stoppers,
1/2 Friend for the crack, and med Friends for the top.
.us 10
Makes Vertical Paths seem like a Sunday picnic.
This route was an awesome effort considering the size of Eric's
enormous feet and the fact that he wore Fire's.
It has not been Redpointed
and probably won't be in it's current form as the crux bolts are
off route. This whole face is complicated and finding routes up it
takes lots of top-rope investigation.
Then again, you could always
just rap straight down the face and put in bolts every 20 feet.
FA: EH, JB - Fall 86.

.h1
Coming Soon! THE RIGHT WINDOW 5.12c (105 ft.) G
Top roped but not lead yet, this route goes up to the right
window (very hard and classic) and up the face above. Up to
the window has been bolted and will be an intense little 5.12b lead.
Mike Januszkiewicz shot out these bolts with his little gun, creating
2 very ugly scars in the process. Why? Is he sexually frustrated?
Mad cause he can't climb 5.12b? WE don't know. If you happen to run
into this maladjusted individual,
I suggest you think twice about climbing with him.

.in -1
I was just about to
remark that there were no clues to the secret of
Eric Horst's climbing prowess on this page,
but I just
discovered that there actually is
one extraordinarily vague clue - pardon me.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
29. AUTUMN ARCH 5.12c (105 ft.) PG-13 Diff
.h2
Start:| At a short vertical flake about 30 ft. left of THE FLAKE route.
Climb the flake up to a fixed blade and a bolt. Climb up and right
following an arch-shaped curve in the bedding past 2 bolts.
From the third bolt climb up on small, confusing holds to
2 bolts side by side with a difficult clip-in, then more extremely
hard climbing up and right to a fixed pin. The difficulties continue
up and right to a very thin crack with Stoppers possible. Go up
the crack past a poor horizontal that builds your hopes then at last
a good horizontal with Stoppers, a rest, and a bolt above.
Continue up left of the bolt past more hard climbing to a
good horizontal
with Friends then casual up to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Six 5/16 in. bolts, small Stoppers, med Friends.
.us 5
It's a toss up between this route and Power Windows for the most
mentally cruel climb imaginable. It has not been Redpointed
and probably won't be in it's current form as the crux bolts are
off-route.
FA: EH, JB - Fall 86.

.h1
30. THE FLAKE 5.11a (100 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 200 ft. right of LEFT HAND ELIMINATE there is a
right facing flake with 2 bolts visible on the smooth right face
(there is usually a sling on the upper bolt).
Climb the flake with the hard move not far above the second bolt.
You are forced to climb the left face here as you can't get fingers
behind the flake. After the crux, you can, so the upper part of the
flake is relatively easy.
Go straight up the face when the flake ends (easier than it looks and a
bolt has been added for pro). There is a nice crack near the top.
.h2
PRO:| There are five bolts, take some wires.
.us 3
The second bolt has seen a lot of air time and will probably see a lot
more. Its just one of those moves you tend to fall off of.
FFA: TH, HH.

.in -1
To be honest, it is fruitless to look for clues to the secret of Eric's
climbing prowess on this particular
page. However, it may not be fruitless to
have a quick look through the route index.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
New! THE NOTHING ATOLLS 5.12d/5.13a (100 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| About 30 ft. right of The Flake, follow a line of bolts up, and
then left, intersecting The Flake half way up. Finish on The
Flake.
.h2
PRO:| 10, 3/8 inch bolts.
.us 10
Definitely the most technical route in the quarry and one of the
hardest thin face/friction climbs anywhere. Some of the foot
holds on this climb are polished to the point where you can see yourself
in them and there really aren't any hand holds so delicate is the word.
Bring some Buddhist incantations, a little zen, and lots of not-doing
(but don't expect any of it to work).
The first section of this route up to the double bolts is dubbed
Micronesia, 5.11d/5.12a, 30 ft., for those
who wish to experience nothing on a
more limited level. Easier in cold weather. FFA: RM, JB - Fall 88.

.h1
31. REALM OF THE SENSELESS 5.11c (105 ft.) G
.h2
NKA: Realm of the Sensible.
.h2
Start:| About 30 ft. left of the corner composing the left side of the
large roof. Climb up the flake to a bolt at
the top of the flake. Continue up the blank face past bolts and follow
the flake above.
.h2
PRO:| 7, 1/2 inch bolts, 1/2 Friend and some Stoppers.
.us 6
About three very hard cruxes with a lot of continuous moves between
them. This used to be a truely sick R or X lead (depending on whether
you consider having your ankle snapped off like a toothpick R or X)
and was retrobolted due to local
dissatisfaction with the concept of R rated routes created on rappel.
FFA: EH, RM - Fall 86.

.h1
32. STEEL GRAFFITI 5.9 (105 ft.) PG LOOSE
.h2
Start:| 10 ft. right of REALM OF THE SENSELESS, follow the broken
corner on the left to the edge. Shinny up this to a roof with
some loose rock. Step left to gain a crack and follow this to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Two 5/16 in. bolts. #1 T.C.U, small Friends and wires.
.us 3
The beginning is boring, the arrete is arresting,
and the finish is freaky.
FFA: EH, Kyle Horst - Fall 86.
.pa
.h1
33. LEFT UGLY CORNER 5.7 (105 ft.) PG LOOSE
.h2
Start:| The left hand corner that makes up the left boundary of the
Bladerunner face (the face above the huge roof).
.us
.h2
PRO:| Wires and Friends.
.us 3
I don't know anyone who has done this although some extensive cleaning
may perhaps yield a nice climb - Wayne (the caretaker) Barnard
has already tackled the upper part.

.h1
New! MORE PUDLY THAN STUDLY 5.11b (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| From Left Ugly Corner follow a line of 7 bolts up and right
across the Bladerunner face.
.h2
PRO:| 7, 3/8 inch bolts (be careful of drag).
.us 3
Most of this route is quite moderate with the crux being the strange
thinness above the second to last bolt.
FFA: JB, RM - Fall 88.

.h1
New! SANITY'S DAY OFF 5.11d/5.12a (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| As crazy as it may seem, this route goes up the giant roof (5.10)
about 20 feet from the left side at a right facing block under the
roof. Climb the face under the roof until you can lean over to gain
holds on the block, commit yourself, climb around the block until you can
get situated on the face, go a little left (very delicate)
and up to the main face.
Follow bolts straight up the devious face with the crux at the bottom.
Clip the first bolt with a cheat stick or this thing's rated X!
(Tape a sling w/ rope on the end of a long stick).
.h2
PRO:| 7, 3/8 inch bolts, Tricams or #1, #1.5 Friends.
.us 9
Nobody in there right mind would ever have thought
that this roof would go free at only 5.10. This is a major strange
scene. Getting started on the roof is a freak out as you have to
face outward and fall against the block.
After you get around the pumpy roof you immediately have
to switch gears and do a delicate frictiony traverse to get to
bucket land. And then, the feasible looking upper face is
barred by an extraordinarily thin move at the start which is the crux.
FFA: JB, DC - Fall 88.
.pa
.h1
New! THE FUN NEVER ENDS 5.10c (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| The brown featured wall left of Welcome to Bellefonte and
Bladerunner.
Gain access to the route by climbing the giant roof from the top of the
large rock under the center of the roof. You can get to the top of this
rock by walking around behind on the left or climbing up the face.
Follow very large obvious buckets (5.8) over the roof and past 2 bolts.
Go a little left above the roof and follow the 4 bolts up the brown face.
.h2
PRO:| 6, 3/8 inch bolts, med wires near top.
.us 9
How true! This nice frictiony face has a few buckets scattered about
but there are several interesting moves to connect them. This route
has achieved lots of popularity with locals and visitors as it is fairly
moderate and nicely protected. The 5.8 roof was engineered as an
alternative to fixing a ladder for access, and judging by the immense
popularity of this roof I don't feel the slightest bit of remorse about
doing this. The last clip is rather desperate due to a large foothold
breaking after the first ascent.
FFA: JB, L McCain - Summer 88.

.h1
New! WELCOME TO BELLEFONTE 5.11b (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Left of Bladerunner, from the top of a large rock under the
center of the giant roof,
climb the roof on giant buckets (5.8) past 2 bolts. The
route continues up the grey face past 4 bolts in a very straight line.
From the last bolt go up right to the Bladerunner exit.
.h2
PRO:| 6, 3/8 inch bolts, med wires near top.
.us 4
A very fine route reminiscent of No Exit. There are two distinct
cruxes and for heavens sake, don't whimper out by going left onto
the previous route. Of course the route sports a Standard Bellefonte
Mantle. FFA: RM, JB, TD - Summer 88.

.h1
Bladerunner Wall in a Day IV 5.12:
This adventure won't be too bad provided you've got some technical
expertise. The pro on these routes is quite excellent.
In fact, you are really missing a treat if you visit Bellefonte
without sampling a Bladerunner wall classic. They are all a
unique and bizarre form of entertainment.
.pa
.h1
34. BLADERUNNER 5.10d (90 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The very large roof left of the Dismal World face. Pull the
roof on the right side where there are 2 smaller roofs with a bolt at
the lip of the lower roof 5 ft. below the upper one. Shuffle left
15 ft. on
the large horizontal crack to a second bolt. Go up and right to some
fixed blades and then up and slightly right to a horizontal.
Continue up and left to another horizontal then easy to the top.
.h2
PRO:| This is not a death route, despite the appearance from the ground
the protection is very good (fixed stuff placed on lead).
Take some #1 and #2 Friends along with
wires for pro at the horizontals. You don't want any rope drag after
the second bolt so downclimb the roof and remove pro (easy)
after you have stuck a 3 or 4 Friend in the traverse crack.
Some bolts have been added recently as the blade population is now
down to one due to fall attrition.
.us 4
Freak City! This very steep friction climb is unreal.
If you make the crux just off the second bolt everything else is about
half a grade easier. The climbing is constantly difficult and thought
provoking. FFA: JB, HAn - Summer 84.

.h1
Variation start: RAINY DAY DIVERSION A3, (40 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| The big roof directly below BLADERUNNER. You need an alpine
hammer (I won't tell you why, you just need one).
.us 8
What do you do when you're all psyched to do the first ascent of
BLADERUNNER
- perhaps the most fantastic climb in the universe, and it rains?
Well if you're Jim Bowers you want to go home. But if you're Hank
Andolsek you decide to
put up an obscure direct start no one has yet repeated,
waste a precious bolt hanger, and manage to break my 1/4 inch drill bit.
Sorry Hank, I just felt like ragging on you for that.

.in -1
Bad weather got you down? Well you will find no comfort in looking
though this guidebook for weather info - there isn't any. It's
hot in the summer (not as hot as the Gunks) and cold in the winter
(cold enough for reliable ice) and nice in spring and fall. Do
you really need a guidebook to tell you this? For info call
(814) 865-4700.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
35. RIGHT UGLY CORNER 5.8 (105 ft.) PG LOOSE
.h2
AKA: Antithesis.
.h2
Start:| The right hand corner that makes up the right boundary of the
BLADERUNNER face.
.h2
PRO:| Med wires and Friends.
.us 3
The first part of this route is boring, the last part is dangerous
and unbelievably loose, but the middle part is fun.
FFA: Mike Steel, Mack Kirk, Jim Keller, 1973.

.h1
New! RIGHT NICE ESCAPE 5.8 (105 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Same as Right Ugly Corner.
.h2
PRO:| Med wires and Friends, 2 - 1/2 in. bolts.
.us 2
A sane way to do the previous route, this finish is highly recommended.
FFA: WB, DS - Fall 88.

.h1
36. HANDLE NO MORE 5.10c (85 ft.) G
.h2
PKA: Handle with Care.
.h2
Start:| Go up the corner just left of DISMAL WORLD LEFT until you
encounter a small roof with a bolt above it. Pull the roof and
continue straight up the face past 4 bolts to top.
.h2
PRO:| Med Friends protect the roof (easy), 4 - 1/2 in. bolts.
.us 5
This ground up route was recently retro bolted to fill the need for
a well protected 5.8 (only really crazy locals have led this with
the old bolts). The flake has broken alot upgrading the route but
at least you no longer have to "handle with care".
FFA: JB, HAn - Summer 84.

.h1
37. DISMAL WORLD LEFT 5.6 (85 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| The left of a pair of obvious large cracks. The face between
has the graffiti "Dismal World" which by now is barely visible.
.us
.h2
PRO:| All kinds of nuts, larger ones for the upper part.
.us 2
This climb and DISMAL RIGHT are popular leads for beginning
climbers. Perhaps because they look so bloody obvious.

Even evil overlords read the Safety Info on page 5 -
.pa
.h1
New! SEXY LOVE SLOTS 5.12c (85 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Climb the flake on the face left of Dismal World Right, go up
to and traverse the hand crack left to a small crack with bolts.
.h2
PRO:| Med Friends, 6 - 1/2 inch bolts.
.us 4
A newly discovered crack climb that will keep your digits in the pink.
This classic technical exercise has tricky sequences and a wild
crux few will figure out.
FFA: JB, EW - Spring 89.

.h1
Coming Soon! LITTLE LOVE MACHINE 5.13a (80 ft.)
From on top a flake, follow 6 bolts up a thin face and crack right of
Sexy Love Slots. This route has perhaps the 5 hardest moves at
Bellefonte.
By some devious twist of fate they happen to all occur one
right after another. FTR: JB, RM - 89.

.h1
38. DISMAL WORLD RIGHT 5.7 (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The right side crack of Dismal World.
.h2
PRO:| Nuts, larger ones for the upper part.
.us 3
This climb is awkward (off-width) and poory protected
near the top unless you have some large tube chocks, Tricams etc.
Do you see any smiley faces for this climb?

.h1
New! A PEDESTRIAN AFFAIR 5.11d (75 ft.) G
.h2
The following "guest" route description is by Tom Davinroy.
.h2
Start:| Climb the face right of Dismal World Right (follow
the bolts).
.h2
PRO:| #.5,1,3 Friends, 5 - 3/8 inch bolts.
.us 11
This climb is a walk up (it has to be as there are absolutely no
handholds).
Mike J and Ron B worked on this route for many hours in the spring of 88
and were rumored to be close to making the first ascent
when RM removed the only fixed piece of protection then on the climb,
a specially purchased piton MJ had mistakenly placed in a #1
Friend slot. Perhaps RM was getting even for an early Bellefonte
bolt chopping incident (see page 44). Further tragedy ensued when
one of the first ascent aspirants actually got a real job and relocated
out of the area before negotiating the crux sequence.
FFA: TD, KD - Spring 88.
.pa
.h1
39. B and T 5.7 (65 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The two parallel cracks on a face facing the water,
just left of the OUTSIDE IN corner.
.h2
PRO:| Wires.
.us 2
Popular with locals, just about every climbing area has a route named
for this particular beverage and body part.

.h1
40. OUTSIDE IN 5.3 (85 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| The relatively obvious low-angle arrete and corner.
.h2
PRO:| Usually soloed, there is a crack on the right side that will take
as many 1,2,3 Rocks that you care to put in.
.us
A much more fun way to get to the top than the class 4 gully.

.h1
41. UP ALL NIGHT 5.9+ (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Alias:| S.C. DIRECT.
.h2
Start:| This is the thin crack about 5 ft. left of the S.C. crack. Start
on one of the left variation starts to S.C. It's possible to follow this
crack all the way from where it starts.
.h2
PRO:| Lots of small 1,2,3,4 wired Rocks or equivalent.
.us 1
Harder than S.C. but not real popular.

.h1
42. S.C. CRACK 5.8 (70 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| When you first enter the Upper Quarry there is a vertical face
visible perpendicular to the bedding. S.C. goes up a crack just
left of the large graffiti letters "SC." Start below a drill hole.
.h2
PRO:| Thread the drill hole. There is a bolt (naughty, naughty,
somebody put this thing in even though it's been led a lot without)
on the lower face and the crack is #2 Friend size.
.us 7
Classic, classic, classic, but a scary lead. Take care when you
place pro in the upper crack. I've seen a guy rip two #2 Friends out
of it. This stuff is limestone and Friend placements won't hold
in flares. The karma is real weird on this climb and it has been the
scene of numerous fiascoes. Layback with your left side in and it's
easier. Lots of variation starts and finishing via the left chimney
is "Scabortion" (5.6).
.pa
.h1
43. S.C. UNDER 5.9+ (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Climb S.C. and traverse right on a two-inch ledge to a bolt
at the "C." Follow a crack that goes up and right.
.h2
PRO:| Take some R.P.'s and small stoppers.
.us 3
Some interesting moves although you must fight the temptation to go
too far right which lessens the difficulties.
FFA: JB, JN - Spring 87.

.pf
.in -1
.bi
THE BEGINNER'S WALL
.bf text
This wall is the weathered-looking face on the right as you walk into
the Upper Quarry.
There are a large number of climbs on this face and
they are popular top-ropes for local climbers and college outing clubs.
Trying to catalogue the climbs on this face is a very difficult task due
to the large number of variations, the fact that many climbs have
several names, and no one really knows who did what when.
In choosing the name for a particular climb I used four different
approaches. Consult the ancients, consult the locals,
use the most prominent graffiti that marks the climb, and when all else
fails, make up my own name.
If you are not happy with the name I have chosen then please feel free
to cross out the offending name in your guide and write in the one of
your choice.
I have listed as many "aliases" as I know of for each climb.
There are certainly more climbs on this face than those I have listed.
I picked out the ones that make reasonable leads and have
at least some socially redeeming value.
There is talk of bolting a few obscure lines to create introductory
lead climbs.
.in 1

.h1
44. SHARKS 5.9+ (250 ft.) BOULDER TRAVERSE
.h2
Start:| At TOBY-K, traverse right to the end of the cliff staying as
low as possible. The hard moves are no more than 3 ft. off the deck.
.us 6
This traverse is the best way to get used to climbing on Bellefonte
limestone. I highly recommend it to newcomers to the Quarry. By the
time you get to the end you've spent so much time standing on relative
nothings that it becomes second nature. Stay on the rock to avoid being
eaten by huge ferocious imaginary sharks lurking in the imaginary
water below.
.pa
.h1
45. CLIMBING 101 5.6 (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Near the left end of the Beginners wall and left of Pep, go
up some solution grooves past a bolt.
.h2
PRO:| 1 bolt, Friends, Stoppers.
.us 2
This was a very neglected face.
FFA: RM, DS - Fall 86.

.h1
New! PEP TALK 5.10b (70 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Near the left end of Beginners Wall
with 5 obvious bolts.
.h2
PRO:| 5, 1/2 in. bolts.
.us 2
Outstanding climbing and a fun route.
FFA: JB, Kjell - Fall 88.

.h1
New! ANGEL HEART 5.9+ (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 10 ft. left of Toby-K, climb past two bolts and finish on
the easy face above.
.h2
PRO:| 2, 3/8 in. bolts, anything/everything for the upper face.
.us 3
This route is very well protected after you get the first bolt clipped
(try not to disturb the 400 million year old resident).
FFA: JB, DC - Fall 88.

.h1
New! GAZELLE LEGS 5.10c (75 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Just left of Toby-K, climb past three bolts and finish on
ANGEL HEART. .
.h2
PRO:| 3, 1/2 in. bolts, stuff for upper part.
.us 2
A most graceful endeavor.
FFA: JB, Kristy - Spring 89.

.h1
46. TOBY-K 5.7 (80 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Named after graffiti now barely visible. Climb up to a good
ledge with the crux at the next blank section. This is protected
(maybe) by a #1 Friend in a horizontal crack which you must mantle onto.
Fun climbing on the upper solution grooves.
.h2
PRO:| #1 Friend, wires, larger stuff for upper section.
.us 4
A fun crux mantle with easier climbing above. This route is a good
introduction to 5.7 for beginning climbers. However it probably isn't
a good introduction to leading as discovered by Chris Purnell, the
World's Most Dangerous Person.
.pa
.h1
New! BROWN ANGEL DUST 5.11a (75 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| About 10 ft. right of Toby-K, climb past two bolts up a blank
looking brown swath. Go straight up after the last bolt.
.h2
PRO:| 2, 3/8 in. bolts, not much of anything for the upper face.
.us 2
Hardest route on the Beginner's wall.
FFA: JB, DC - Fall 88.

.h1
47. DINK 5.6 (80 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 15 ft. right of TOBY-K at the graffiti "dink."
Climb up using a series of small horizontal cracks that afford adequate
protection with Friends or Tricams. Near the top go left to avoid
vegetation and a broken unaesthetic (read "easy") section.
.h2
PRO:| Good selection of Friends, Stoppers, and Tricams.
.h2
One of the better protected routes on this face. Fun climbing.

.h1
48. HORIZONTALS 5.4 (80 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The deeper, more prominent horizontals right of DINK.
.h2
PRO:| Good selection of Friends, Stoppers, and Tricams.
.h2
Might be a bit dirty near the top.

.h1
49. HALF BOLT 5.3 (85 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. right of the large broken corner at a small corner
and ledge about 5 ft. up. Easier to the first large ledge if you use
a hole over to the right.
.h2
PRO:| There is an old chopped bolt you can use a wired nut on.
.h2
Fun and interesting climbing the whole way.

.in -1
.bd
FOOTWEAR RECOMMENDATIONS:
Bellefonte climbing tends to be "facey" and technical. What you put
on your feet matters a lot and
good edging shoes are KEY to
getting up the new 5.12's.
The preference of the locals are the Dolomite Magicas or Emotions,
although the
expensive Scarpas seem to also work nicely.
For the Friction Quarries I prefer Magicas resoled with
stealth. Slippers should also work very well there.
You should take note that
the "in" quarry crowd are constantly brushing their Magicas
with $1.98 K-mart nylon paint stripping brushes.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
50. BABY CRACK 5.2 (75 ft.) G
.h2
Aliases:| MONO CRACK, OLD ROUTE, BIG CRACK.
.h2
Start:| Climb up to a large pocket with small tree, then up the large
obvious jam crack.
.h2
PRO:| Large stuff.
.h2
Many beginners' first climb.

.h1
51. NO EXIT 5.10b (75 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Climb up the blank, brown face between BABY CRACK and
WHITE LIGHTNING.
.h2
PRO:| #1, #0 T.C.U. and #1 Friend, one 5/16 in. bolt (maybe).
.us 7
Major controversy over this one. Rick Mix ("Vulgarian")
put the bolt in on lead.
Tom Davinroy said that he had lead it using pro over in BABY CRACK.
For some reason ex-PSOC mountaineering division
president (big deal) Mike Januszkiewicz ("Appie") removed the bolt.
Controversy, controversy, controversy,
sometimes climbing is juicier than prime-time soaps.

.h1
52. WHITE LIGHTNING 5.7 (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Aliases:| ZIG-ZAG, THIN LAYBACK, RICH, FOSSIL
.h2
Start:| Climb up the leftward-trending series of enechelon cracks (this
is a geological term) that are marked by the graffiti "RICH."
.h2
PRO:| #1, #2 Friends, med Stoppers, RP's, Tricams work well.
.us 3
A popular top-rope, this route is a fun lead
with some good Stopper placements and Friend pockets. The crux is near
the top and if you chicken out by going right it's easier.

.h1
53. VERN 5.5 (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Aliases:| NO PARKING.
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. right of WHITE LIGHTNING. Climb the face, move
left at a horizontal crack and climb up at a groove with a white foot-
hold. Go right and up to a #1 Friend placement near the top.
.h2
PRO:| Good selection of Friends, Stoppers, and Tricams.
.us 1
Interesting climbing, made a bit easier with good route-finding.
.pa
.h1
54. JAWBONE 5.6 (70 ft.) R
.h2
Aliases:| DON'T SHOOT.
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. left of a big ledge, climb up on horizontals to a
large ledge about half-way up. Climb up to the top on small holds and
solution cracks. Last good pro is at the ledge.
.h2
PRO:| Friends, Stoppers, Tricams, RP's, try anything.
.h2
Never fails to scare me silly.

.h1
55. EASY ZIG-ZAGS 5.4 (65 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| A large ledge and pocket just off the ground.
.h2
PRO:| Friends, Stoppers.
.us 1
Very easy and rather nondescript.

.h1
56. DESPERATION 5.9 (55 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| The blank face at the very right end of the cliff.
.h2
PRO:| One 5/16 in. bolt with new SMC hanger,
RP's, a small T.C.U. at the top is handy.
.us 3
Long a popular top-rope, with the bolt it makes a nice scary lead
keeping with the tradition of the name. Definite running belay - does
Carl Lewis rock climb? FFA: JB, RM - Summer 86.

.in -1
.pf
.bi
THE ISLAND
.bf text
The Island is the 20 ft. or so high stretch of rock that is between the
right part of the Beginner's Wall and the water.
Numerous classic boulder problems are found on the side facing the water.
These may be easily top-roped if you plan on falling a lot and have feet
that damage easily.
There is even a long finger traverse that will get you in shape for Heads
and Tails or Welcome to Bedrock.

.pf
.bi
THE LOWER WALL
.bf text
This is the very long, very blank face directly above the water.
The fact that the base of most of this face lies in the water has until
recently kept people from putting up climbs. In the frantic search for
new routes this face
is at last being explored with some interesting results. The first two
routes are located on the face below Coleman.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
57. NINEISH 5.10b (35 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Behind a small tree you should see a fixed pin about 10 ft. up.
To the right of the tree about 3 ft. there is a good foothold at about
knee-level. Start here and go up left to clip the pin, then back right
to a second pin, then up the TRILLIUM crack.
.h2
PRO:| 2 fixed pins, Stoppers.
.us 2
Hard if you are short, first ascent was done Gunks style
(5 people on the first ascent.) FFA: EH, JB, RM, KD, TD - fall 86.

.h1
Variation start: LADIES' WAY 5.11b/c PG
Climb directly up to the pin from behind the tree, then straight up to
the crack. This direct variation had repulsed all until
Kathy Davinroy showed the guys how by floating up it on top-rope.
Later led by EH, TD - fall 86.

.h1
58. TRILLIUM 5.9 (50 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| At the right end of this face climb up the corner till you gain
the crack. Traverse left following the crack past a small tree (tie it
off). Finish on this crack with a fixed pin and a good Stopper below
the upper crux.
.h2
PRO:| One fixed pin, take small Friends, T.C.U.'s, med Stoppers.
.us 1
An old aid route. FFA: Jeff Batzer, EH - Fall 81.

.h1
59. HARD WATER 5.9 (65 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Ten ft. right of the Bentonite Chimney, climb up to the traverse
crack a little left of the first bolt using small face and footholds.
Follow the crack with your feet in it all the way to the last bolt where
it is a bit easier to finish the crack on your hands.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts, three 5/16, one 3/8 all with SMC hangers.
Take a good selection of wires, no Friends needed.
.us 5
Another old aid climb with a curious line of rivets extending several
feet after the crack reaches the top.
A hard fun start and delicate footwork
characterize this bizarre climb. If you are in the mood for something
completely different, this is the climb for you. FFA: JB, EH - Fall 86.
.pa
.in -1
.bd
"SEA" CLIFF CLIMBS
The following climbs actually start out of the water and are best
reached by rappeling down to a belay stance. VOICES FROM THE DEEP is
very soloable and a good workout is to see how many laps
you can do (this would make a great contest). For the
other routes I recommend belaying if you have an aversion to
getting wet.
Keep your rope dry by lapping the thing through a piece of webbing you
can attach to a belay anchor.
I have a feeling some people will look down on these climbs (no pun)
as sort of last ditch route bagging before someone puts out a guide
book.
Well let me clear the air - this is exactly the attitude they were put
up in.
In hindsight however, these climbs are really fun and challenging.
No one likes to get wet, and this is a strong incentive to push yourself
past your limits. The water is like an unpleasant safety net.
It removes that debilitating "I'm going to ground out and die" attitude
and replaces it with "I'll do anything to avoid getting wet."

.in 1
.h1
60. POSEIDON ADVENTURE 5.10c (55 ft.) PG|
.h2
Start:| Rap down from some boulders right of LEFT UGLY CORNER
to a wooden platform about a foot off the water with a good fixed pin
for the belay. Climb the thin hard crack right past 2 fixed pins you
can clip from large holds. After the fixed pins the crack gets bigger
and there are placements for two #1 Friends. You will need these for
the next thin section. Exit at the last large hold.
.h2
PRO:| 2 fixed pins, #1 Friends.
.us 3
If you want to make this climb you better sprint. If you hang around
to think you'll be in the drink. Sort of a mini HEADS AND TAILS.
FFA: JB, MM - Fall 86.

.h1
61. WET DREAMS 5.11c (35 ft.) PG| (A spot does no good)
.h2
Start:| 30 ft. left of Voices rap down to a stance and a bolt. Climb up
the face on small holds.
.h2
PRO:| 1 bolt, 1 fixed pin.
.us 2
This route could be quite dangerous if you fall on your belayer.
May need a life preserver. FFA: RM, EH - Fall 86.
.pa
.h1
62. VOICES FROM THE DEEP 5.8 (55 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Around Dismal World Left, look down at the water till you see a
line of epoxied holds. Down-climb these to a belay stance with one 5/16
in. bolt. Climb up the traverse crack with hands the whole way. Start
at a foothold just barely above the water. This hold may be covered in
spring which makes the start a bit more technical.
.h2
PRO:| Take lots of regular protection, including a good selection of
Friends, make sure everything is attached. More fun to solo.
.us 8
The first climb out of the water. Chalk is handy but I don't recommend
bringing a whole month's supply as it might go to the fish. This is a
good climb and a really nice solo.
FFA: RM, JB, EH - Fall 86. FFA (in reverse): JB - Spring 87.
FFA (totally naked): RM - Summer 87.
FFA (in opposite directions at the same time): JB, DS - Summer 87.
FFA (feet only): RM - Summer 87.
First recorded splash-down: MMo.

.h1
63. DASH OR SPLASH 5.11d (35 ft.) G to X| (seasonal)
.h2
Start:| Same as VOICES FROM THE DEEP. Climb up the face on small holds
past a bolt (a strange bolt) and an equally bizarre fixed crack-n-up.
.h2
PRO:| Must be seen to be believed.
.us 3
Better hope your chalk bag is like real waterproof. Many people have
expressed difficulty in using a running belay on this climb.
FFA: EH, RM - Fall 86.

.h1
64. FINGERTIPS ON A SEASCAPE 5.11b (55 ft.) PG|
.h2
Start:| From the side of the bouldering face on the island, rap down
to a stance 5 ft. right of the right-most
fixed pin you see.
Follow the traverse crack
past 4 fixed pins. Exit at a good stance 6 ft. right of the last
pin, at a good #2.5 Friend.
.h2
PRO:| 4 fixed pins, #2.5 Friend.
.us 5
The Crux is just after the last pin.
Without strong fingers you might get your
fingertips "in" a seascape.
By the way, the cardinal rule of Bellefonte finger traverses is:
"when you don't have feet, go like hell." FFA: EH, RM - Fall 86.
.in -1
.pa
.pf
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.h2
THE LOWER QUARRY
.rt top even /%/LOWER QUARRY//
.rt top odd //LOWER QUARRY/%/
.bf text

Despite its easy access and frequent speculation by climbers walking
through it, the Lower Quarry has only seen route activity in recent
years.
Most of the Lower Quarry climbing is centered around the Leopard Wall,
a very high steep face uniformly covered with white calcite patches and
located at the left end of the Lower Quarry.
The calcite splotches are useful as handholds
and footholds, however, they don't make very big handholds
and footholds.
The average Leopard Wall route
has no single move harder than 5.8 or 5.9
but they are very sustained and there are very few real rests.
You should be prepared to spend a good deal of time standing on small
holds, sometimes a good distance out from pro.
As a result, leading on this face may scare the shit out of you until
you get used to the climbing.
In general, the climbs on this face are actually very safe leads.
With the possible exception of the Herr routes the bolts are very
bomb-proof and many have been tested under actual climbing conditions.
A good running belay will cut fall length by at least 10 ft., there
is little chance of hitting anything in a fall, and I know of no blatant
groundfall situations.
The routes tend to ease-off a bit near the top so don't be too put-off
by the usual 20 to 30 ft. run-out from the last bolt.
The quality of Leopard Wall climbs are hard to match. They are quite
spectacular and the nature of the climbing forces you to climb zen-like,
relaxed and flowing with good style.
The bolts on all climbs except FEETS (and 2 on MIXED UP)
were placed on lead, and on sight (no hooks).
Climbs left of the left black streak were
cleaned (napalmed, hacked, and wire brushed)
first as this part of the face was nothing but a heap of
vegetation and moss.
There are some surprisingly good climbs (as well as some nasty loose
ones) on the face right of the Leopard Wall, so don't let your first
impression of this area turn you off.
These climbs require walking up a few feet of scree to get to the base
of them which may be why this face was ignored (walking 20 yards uphill
is torture to Bellefonte climbers).
From the base of the climbs you will notice that some of the rock is
more solid than it appears from a distance.
.pa
.bf text
.in 1
.h1
65. LEOPARDS TAIL 5.6 (65 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| At the very left end of the Leopard Wall there is a thin
crack that diagonals up to the left.
.h2
PRO:| Better to solo it.
.us 2
This will be more fun after it gets cleaned up a bit more.
FFA: Mike J. - Spring 87.

.h1
66. PLANT GRAVEYARD 5.6 (65 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| About 10 ft. left of a large block at the base of the cliff,
climb up to a good horizontal with a small stump. There is a deep
round hole left of and down from this horizontal. Go straight up to a
good horizontal then an interesting move (cause it's about a 50 ft.
ground fall now) up to another horizontal with Friends possible in
a diagonal crack. Straight up and slightly right to the top, finishing
at "Ye Ole Descent Tree." Remember,
if it grows kill it - if it kills grow it.
.h2
PRO:| Medium Stoppers at the first horizontal, #1, 1.5 Friends.
.us 2
The only good pro is at the first horizontal and that is about 10
feet up. FFA: JB, JT - Spring 87.

.h1
New! FOR NORMAL PEOPLE 5.8- (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| On the left side of the Leopard wall at a large block on
the ground, climb up to a bolt about 12 ft. up and continue.
.h2
PRO:| #1,2 Friends, 1 - 5/16 inch bolt.
.us 3
Dave Seasholtz's true character emerged (he's a closet sandbagger)
when he originally graded this 5.6 and G.
FFA: DS, WB - Summer 88.

.h1
67. NECK STRAIN 5.8+ (70 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| About 8 ft. right of a large block at the base of the cliff,
climb up to a bolt level with and about 10 ft. left of the third bolt
on RICH MIXTURE. Continue up to a large horizontal then easy climbing
up large horizontals to the top.
.h2
PRO:| One 5/16 inch bolt with black hanger, small wires and Friends.
.us 3
The name will make sense as you try to locate the first
bolt from the ground.
FFA: JB, JN - Spring 87.
.pa
.h1
68. RICH MIXTURE 5.9+ (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Just left of a dark streak climb up to a bolt with a blue
hanger a
very short distance off the ground. Up 5 ft. to another bolt at a
completely horrible drill stance.
Hard moves up to good holds then traverse left to a large
horizontal with a bolt. Interesting climbing up to another large
horizontal with a bolt,
then easier up and right following a crack near the top.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts - 5/16 inch with homemade hangers, Friends and nuts for
the upper part.
.us 9
Well-protected (for a Leopard wall route) with a very hard bottom
section. The first bolt is Rick Mix's (placed way too low)
for his Mixed Up endeavor.
As a joke, Tom Davinroy fixed a sling on this bolt which he is able to
clip from the ground.
I spent many days cleaning the upper
wall to make this route worth doing. Some very interesting and fun
climbing.
FFA: JB, JM - Fall 86.

.h1
69. MIXED UP 5.9 (75 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Just right of a dark streak climb up to a bolt then a scary
run-out up left to a bolt (2 bolts) at a very good stance.
Up right to bolt then back left to another bolt then up
right to the last bolt.
.h2
PRO:| Four 5/16 and two 3/8 inch bolts, wires.
.us 9
Tricky and scary climbing down low, getting to
the second bolt may look like ground fall territory but there are some
very good holds as you get close to it. There is a plethora of bolts
in the middle section. Rick Mix
rapped down and put in two 3/8 inch bolts, not knowing there was a
route here as someone stole my hangers.
He feels sufficiently bad about the mix up and the rappel placed pro.
This is a fun route, especially if you weave about to clip all the
bolts. FFA: JB, MMo - Spring 87.

.in -1
There is a secret to resting on Leopard wall routes - stand on the
inside of a heel. Heels work as good as toes with much less calf strain.
This is how the bolts were drilled although it still wasn't much of
a fun time.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
70. MIAMI MICE 5.9+ (85 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| First route with black hangers left of the LEFT HERR ROUTE,
at a diagonal calcite-filled seam. Climb straight up to the first bolt,
then over a bulge (hard) to the second bolt not far above.
Continuously difficult climbing on a run-out up to the third bolt and
more of the same up and left to the last bolt. Go up to a good
horizontal then top out on sort of a crack to the right.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts - 5/16 inch with homemade hangers.
.us 2
Excellent route, continuous with hard moves - on second thought,
make that very continuous. FFA: MM, JB - Fall 85.

.h1
71. LEFT HERR ROUTE 5.9+ (90 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Left of the RIGHT HERR ROUTE, climb up to a bolt at a very good
square cut stance. Climb right and up to the next bolt (hard) then
very devious climbing on a long run-out up and left to the last bolt
above what looks like a stance (it is). Climb up to a horizontal
(also hard) with some pro and exit wherever.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts - 1/4 inch with old SMC hangers (last replaced by 5/16),
small nuts or #1 T.C.U. near top.
.us 3
A bit harder than the RIGHT HERR ROUTE. The last bolt was a total
piece of shit so a new 5/16 inch was added
alongside it (placed on lead by Mike Miller). FFA: TH?

.h1
72. RIGHT HERR ROUTE 5.9 (95 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| The first route left of FEETS. Climb up to a horizontal then
up and right to a bolt. Go up, right, and up to the second bolt. Go
straight up to the third bolt then left and up a long way to good holds
below a vertical crack. Climb the crack (wow, some pro).
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts - 1/4 inch with old SMC hangers, #1 Friend backup
at the 2nd bolt, R.P.'s and small wires for the upper crack.
.us 4
This is a very fine route and I am jealous that I didn't put it up.
The most distinguishing feature is the fun run-out above the third bolt.
Fortunately the climbing gets progressively easier as your nerves get
progressively more razzled. FFA: TH?
.pa
.h1
73. FEETS 5.10b (95 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Below the big pocket in the center of the face there is a 3/8
inch bolt clippable from a move above a horizontal crack. Climb up to
the pocket and from the third bolt go right then up to the horizontal.
Much easier climbing after the fourth bolt.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts - 3/8 inch with Leeper hangers, wires at the diagonal.
.us 7
The first and perhaps the most classic Leopard Wall route. The crux
is just above the first bolt but there is a tricky move to get into the
pocket. With a running belay you can fall from here and not ground out
(the voice of experience). I can guarantee you this route will not
bore you. The run-out from the last bolt is really sick if you stop
to think about it, but the climbing is easy so don't think about it.
FFA: GT, JB - Spring 82.

.h1
74. CASUAL STANCES 5.9 (95 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 10 ft. right of FEETS. The first bolt is a little higher
than the first bolt on FEETS. Follow the bolts up a rather straight
line. The last bolt is the same as the last bolt on CHAINSAW MADNESS.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts - 5/16 with homemade hangers, Friends.
.us 4
Both Mike Miller and I considered this climb to be somewhat easy
and overprotected hence the name CASUAL STANCES. Listening to feedback
from others who have done or attempted the route I'm starting to wonder
if perhaps we are a bit crazy. FFA: MM, JB - Fall 85.

.h1
Leopard Wall in a Day V 5.10 R:
Around 1000 ft. of calf pumping, mind numbing terror with moderate
brain damage and major calf burn the result. While most of these
routes are only 5.9, as locals will attest, Leopard Wall 5.9's are
perhaps the hardest 5.9's in the Universe.
Be prepared for continuous 5.8 - 5.9 climbing, most of which is
run-out, with few rests. By the way, none of these "challenges"
that I am listing have been done as of this writing so feel free
to brave the unknown and go for it.
.pa
.h1
75. CHAINSAW MADNESS 5.9+ (95 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| 20 ft. right of FEETS. The first bolt is about 15 ft. up at
a good stance. Continue up past 2 more bolts. The third bolt is just
below and left of a horizontal. From the third bolt there is a healthy
run-out up and slightly left to the last bolt at the horizontal about
3/4 of the way up. Go up and right on easier climbing.
.h2
PRO:| 4 - 5/16 in. bolts, Friends for the upper part.
.us 7
Although this climb is rated R,
Mike Miller managed to fall from near the end of the severe run-out and
suffered only slight mental trauma (running belay used).
If you want to experience the joy of a 40 ft. fall just get a little too
far right near the end of this awesome run-out. Mike worked up the keen
psychological edge needed to do this route by chainsawing a few choice
trees along the base. FFA: MM, JB - Fall 85.

.h1
76. TAKE HEART 5.9 (100 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| 20 ft. right of FEETS. Clip the first bolt as on CHAINSAW
MADNESS with a long runner to avoid drag. Go up and right past two
more bolts. The third bolt is down and right of the horizontal crack.
From the third bolt go up to the horizontal (#3 Friend) then up and
right on a fun run-out to the fourth bolt at the diagonal. Go straight
up on larger holds past a bomber #1.5 Friend placement and continue up
(this is run-out)
past a large heart-shaped feature with a good #1 Friend directly above.
.h2
PRO:| 4 - 5/16 in. bolts, #3, #1.5, #1, #2 Friends.
.us 9
This climb used to be an alternate start to CHAINSAW MADNESS and the
first 3 bolts were there for quite some time. More than one individual
was lured up to the right after the third bolt by some mysterious force
resulting in more than one individual needing a rescue from a top rope.
I took this strange and unnatural interest in this portion of the cliff
as a sign from God that there should be a route up there and led it,
placing the fourth bolt. A nice route which I feel will become very
popular for some mysterious reason.
FFA: JB, RM - Fall 85.
.pa
.h1
77. WHERE THERE'S ROPE THERE'S BURNS 5.8+ PG-13
.h2
Start:| Just left of a round pocket about 12 feet off the ground, go up
to the pocket with a bolt. Climb up and right after the second
bolt to a horizontal with a good Friend and wires. Go straight up to a
third bolt, then up and right to the ledge. Climb up past
two drill holes to the top. (110 ft.)
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts - 5/16, with homemade hangers, #1 Friend, med wires, a
fixed Bong.
.us 3
One of the easier routes but for some reason people
have difficulty getting above the Friend.
FFA: JB, MMc - Spring 85.

.h1
78. DESPICABLE STANCES 5.9+ (110 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| At the bottom of the long diagonal, climb up to a bolt about
10 ft. right of the big pocket on WHERE THERE'S ROPE. Straight up on
some tricky moves to another bolt then up and left to two side by side
bolts. Go up and right to gain a large ledge or go left to the #1
Friend pocket on WHERE THERE'S ROPE and finish on that route.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts - 5/16 with homemade hangers, Friends.
.us 5
The climbing in the lower section is engaging and fun. The name
stems from the unfriendly nature of the second two drill stances.
I recommend finishing on WHERE THERE'S ROPE
unless I've gotten around to destroying the vegetation on the
ledges to the right. FFA: JB, JN - Spring 87.

.in -1
.bf rest
.bi
RIGHT OF LEOPARD WALL
.bf text
.in 1

.h1
79. HIDDEN LEFT CRACK 5.7 (20 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Just right of the Leopard Wall there is a path through
vegetation that leads to a short steep face with two prominent cracks.
The left one is hand jam size.
.h2
PRO:| Friends, nuts.
.us 3
Unearthing this previously undiscovered face with machete and
wire brush had all the flavor of an archaeological find.
FFA: JB - Summer 85.
.pa
.h1
80. HIDDEN RIGHT CRACK 5.8 (20 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The right crack on this face is a bit harder and more of
a face climb.
.h2
PRO:| Wires.
.us 4
Both cracks were soloed for the first ascent and although some will
think of these as boulder problems others have stated reluctance to
treat them as such.
FFA: JN - Spring 87.

.h1
81. OUTER LIMITS 5.6 (110 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Scramble up the brush filled gully right of the Leopard Wall.
Climb up a dihedral and finger traverse right along a
crack on a smooth wall under a very large overhang.
.h2
PRO:| Friends, nuts.
.us 2
You really have to go out of your way to do this route.
FFA: JB, JT - Spring 87.

.h1
82. YOUNG AND DUMB 5.8 (70 ft.) PG LOOSE
.h2
Start:| Right of the Leopard Wall and the very broken corner there is
a face with pronounced ripples at the top. Follow a crack-like feature
past ledges up the left side of this rippled face.
.h2
PRO:| Friends, nuts.
.us 2
I haven't done this but it's supposed to be nicer than it looks.
FFA: John Taladay - Summer 85.

.h1
83. WAYNE'S ENGINEERING PROJECT 5.10d (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Just left of MYSTERY FOOTHOLDS climb up a corner and traverse
right under a roof past some bolts. Pull the roof at the second bolt
and continue up a corner to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Three bolts with hangers.
.us 5
Wayne put an unbelievable amount of work into cleaning this out
(I half expected to see him using a vacuum cleaner on it) and
although it's been top-roped, we are still waiting for him to lead it.
Unless you know that he has done it (he'll put
up a sign) please refrain from climbing it. FFA: Still waiting.
.pa
.h1
84. MYSTERY FOOTHOLDS 5.10c (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| 30 ft. left of SEX TOYS at a right leaning vertical flake that
faces left. Climb the flake (not hard but small T.C.U.'s will protect)
to a stance and a bolt. From the second bolt move right and up on very
small finger holds (crux) to a ledge with a bolt. From the left side
of the ledge
hand traverse to the right up the flake below the cylinder-shaped roof.
Pull the roof directly above a fixed pin behind the flake and belay at
a bolt and threaded flake. Rappel from here.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts - 5/16 inch with homemade hangers, fixed pin.
.us 4
This route has seen a lot of traffic so don't be too concerned over
loose rock. The crux is hard, the hand traverse scary to start, and
the roof is wild. Good luck finding those footholds.
FFA: JB, MM, MMc - Spring 85.

.h1
85. SEX TOYS 5.9+ (70 ft.) PG LOOSE
.h2
Start:| At a blank-looking wall with some prominent dark streaks. Climb
past a bolt then up and right to another. Go up the small flake
to a ledge (crux). Continue up the easy but precariously loose face
above. Part of the flake broke off recently.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts - 5/16 inch with hangers. Friends for upper part.
.us 2
This route has not seen a lot of traffic so be concerned over loose
rock. FFA: MM, JB - Spring 85.

.h1
86. GEAR! GEAR! 5.5 (60 ft.) PG LOOSE
.h2
Start:| About 70 ft. left of RUBBER DOLL,
follow a large, very loose, right facing flake and go up or
around a small block-shaped overhang near the top.
.h2
PRO:| Friends and nuts (I guess).
.us 5
I'm only putting this route in for completeness as certain locals
witnessed unknown and positively demented individuals actually leading
up this face. The name stems from our cries of anticipation as we
gathered at the base like vultures, awaiting an early
Christmas - sadly for us, he made it up alive.

.in -1
LOOSE means something WILL fall off if you climb it (could be you).
.in 1
.pa
.h1
87. RUBBER DOLL 5.8+ (60 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| At the first crack right of the fault with the curved fractures.
Climb up large square holds to the first bolt about 20 ft. up and left
of the crack (it's not really a crack).
Harder climbing for the next 10 ft. past the second bolt 5 ft. above the
first. The top is easy but be careful of loose blocks.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts - 5/16 inch with washers.
.us 3
Much easier than it looks from a distance, this is a fun route that will
probably become popular as the loose rock at the top gets removed. The
route was gardened by the second. FFA: JB, MM - Fall 86.

.h1
88. LEEPIN' SALAMANDERS 5.7 (55 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| This is the second crack right of the fault.
A tricky start with perhaps a lunge for the big edge. The climbing gets
progressively easier as you get higher but watch out for loose stuff at
the top.
.h2
PRO:| No bolts, take RP's and small nuts - T.C.U.'s handy.
.us 3
Surprisingly this is a nice climb and rather fun. This climb and the
following ones on this face were cleaned first (after all we're not
totally crazy). FFA: JB, Criss - Fall 86.

.h1
89. PINK NEGROES 5.9+ (50 ft.) PG-13 / R
.h2
Start:| The blank face between the second and third cracks. Climb up a
slightly disturbing distance to the first bolt at a good stance above a
tricky mantle. A hard move up to the second bolt, then a hard
section up and to the right to get good holds below the top.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts - 5/16 inch with washers. Take RP's and T.C.U.'s.
.us 4
Interesting and hard. Rick Mix did a nice job leading this,
considering he had to catch various pieces of bolting equipment in
mid-climb that were very errantly tossed. Rick named it (obviously).
FFA: RM, JB - Fall 86.

.in -1
In this particular edition of the guide only "redpoint" ascents of
climbs harder than 5.11 are accepted as first free ascents (FFA).
This distinction was not made in previous editions.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
90. OLD SNEAKERS 5.6 (50 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| The third crack right of the fault.
There are some RP's possible near the top but let's get
serious, the rock quality on this one ain't going to qualify it for 50
Classic Climbs.
.h2
PRO:| RP's for psychological factors.
.us 1
Because it's there. FFA: RM, JM - Fall 86.

.h1
91. EAT AT JOE'S 5.8 (45 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 12 ft. right of the third crack, climb up square edges
to a bolt at a good stance. Go a little left and up to a #2 Friend
pocket then easy to the top.
.h2
PRO:| One bolt, #2 Friend.
.us 3
Interesting climbing and the rock is surprisingly good.
The bolt is poor (hey, it was Joe's first bolt).
FFA: JM, RM - Fall 86.

.h1
92. CARPET BAGGERS 5.7 (35 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| On the short rippled face directly on the right as you walk
into the Lower Quarry. Start at the left corner, go up to a blade then
right and up.
.h2
PRO:| Fixed blade, RP's, Small T.C.U.'s useful.
.us 2
The name is a combination of route bagging and the strange object seen
at the top. FFA: RM, JB - Fall 86.

.h1
93. ROCKVIEW 5.6 (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| On the left (south east facing) wall in the Lower Quarry,
directly across from the SEX TOYS area. Climb up a left-facing corner
then over a small awkward roof as you stand on top of a triangular
block.
Scramble up and left to a beautifully exposed triangular belay ledge.
.h2
PRO:| Med Friends, wires.
.us 3
About as aesthetic as it looks. The belay ledge does have a view
and it gets a lot of sun in the winter.
FFA: JB, HA - Fall 86.

.in -1
If you manage to kill yourself cause you didn't read page 5, we will
probably drag your body out to the road and say you got hit by a truck.
.in 1
.pa
.pf
.in -1
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.bd
THE FRICTION QUARRIES
.bf text

The climbing in these quarries is friction climbing quite like that
found in New England or at Stone Mt. North Carolina. The rock is a
tad steeper than most friction climbing and the coefficient of friction
of this limestone is nowhere near granite.
In fact, I'm amazed that this stuff is climbable at all.
Fortunately there are shallow scoops, pockets, and an occasional edge
which seem to have been placed by some diabolical mind to lure climbers
into an adventure they won't soon forget.
For those of you who are friction connoisseurs these areas are as fine
as any you will find on the east coast.
In fact, now that stealth type rubber has reduced or eliminated the
challange from granite friction areas such as Stone Mt., the Bellefonte
friction quarries currently possess the highest standard friction
climbing in the east - perhaps even the entire country.
A few routes in the 5.13 area have recently been top-roped in the
compressor quarry and the potential for hard routes here is staggering.
If you are unfamiliar with friction you may find this stuff to
be very different from any other type of climbing
(almost to the point of being a different sport).
Some people take to it right off but others find it
frustrating (I know this 5.12 climber who couldn't get off the ground
on Original Route).
You don't need strength (strong calves help) as much as poise and grace.
Friction is funny stuff.
In order to make a difficult move you just need to relax
and flow.
If you do a move right it seems easy.
If you don't you just don't get up - you can't force a friction move.
Protection on these climbs is almost exclusively bolts but you may
wish to take some Friends and wires as horizontals appear at the
top of some routes. You may feel that
the protection on some of these routes
is a bit spaced
but most friction areas are like that.
Falls are more like slides and you have to try hard to hurt yourself
as the rock is very smooth.
We will try hard to insure that
any super hard top-down routes put up in the future will have G
protection.
I've found that a soft rag to wipe the lime build-up off
your shoes is more useful than a chalkbag - or better yet, buy yourself
a $1.98 K-mart nylon paint stripping brush. The nylon brushes work much
better than wire brushes for cleaning shoes.
.pf
.pa
.pa
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.h2
COMPRESSOR QUARRY
.rt top even /%/COMPRESSOR QUARRY//
.rt top odd //COMPRESSOR QUARRY/%/
.bf text

The Compressor Quarry is sort of an ugly looking thing that used to be
noisy due to this giant fan in the far end that sucked air down
into the limestone mines. Mining here has stopped and THE FAN IS OFF!
The outstanding climbing here makes you forget the less than beautiful
surroundings once you are on the rock.
The climbs in this quarry are generally harder
and scarier than those in the Silent Quarry.
The access to the friction areas has changed and you can no longer
drive into the compressor quarry. From Bellefonte, go
past the lime plant and stay on Valley View road.
Continue up a large hill and the road
takes a sharp left turn and heads southwest.
Mile marker 2/40, where the path to the friction quarries begins,
is about one mile from this bend. About 50 yards on either side of
this mile marker are large pulloffs where you can park.
This mile marker is on the south side of the road and the marker
is visible while traveling east, so keep looking back.
The path begins directly at mile
marker 2/40 and is fairly easy to follow. The
only tricky place is right after you cross the power line cut where
the path appears to continue straight. Here go slightly left onto
a somewhat less obvious path. If you have problems just go downhill
as the quarry is only a few hundred yards from the road and you are
guaranteed to intersect a quarry as long as you are within the
general vicinity of mile marker 2/40. Actually I lied when I said
you can no longer drive into the Compressor quarry. From the curve
where you park for the Double secret quarry, go east along a dirt road
(old railroad bed), bypass the death bridge via a potentially
muddy bike trail to the right, come back left
across the passable bridge,
then go right along a grassy road and you will get to where the road
entering the compressor quarry is on the left.
You may not want to subject you car (or nervous passengers)
to this treatment.
The left wall as you walk into the quarry is known as
the Clam Wall and is the only wall that gets sun in cold months.
Most of the routes on this wall
ascend up to the large ledge above the Clam Sandwich
Roof where a large quantity of 1/2 in. bolts are peppered about for top
rope belays.
.pa
.in 1
.h1
New! RUNWAY 666 5.11c (125 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| In the compressor quarry, about 20 ft. left of Master the
Monster,
climb up to a bolt with a hanger about 20 ft. up. There are 4 more bolts
in a rather straight line up and right. From the last bolt top-out up
left.
.h2
PRO:| 5, 5/16 in. bolts, only first one has a hanger.
.us 4
Very continuous and difficult with nasty drill stances (if they rated
climbs on the difficulty of drill stances this route would be 5.12).
This climb required 2 days of effort to complete.
FFA: RM, JB - Spring 88.

.h1
94. MASTER THE MONSTER 5.11b (120 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| In the middle of the large face next to the compressor, climb up
to a bolt then horizontally left to the diagonal. Cross the diagonal
and go left and up to the next bolt at a good pocket.
Climb left and up on a very long run-out on
increasingly difficult moves. The difficulties don't ease till after you
cross the next diagonal with a bolt in a pocket 10 ft. above this. Use a
very long runner on this bolt and
do a hard move 5 ft. right to a washered
bolt in another pocket. Go right horizontally staying above the
diagonal.
Hard moves (don't fall) to gain a pocket below a small tree at broken
flakes. Up to the tree (sling it) then easier to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Three 1/4 in. bolts with hangers, one 5/16 in. with washer.
.us 8
The current friction testpiece,
you probably won't get hurt on this climb
with a good running belay (excellent
place to run). Fall at the wrong place though and the excitement will
top any known amusement ride.
The line wanders a bit (more fun that
way) and you will need route finding skills.
FFA: JB, KD - Fall 86.

.in -1
Regrettably, the Monster wall may be the first Friction
quarry area to deviate from the ground up style.
A top down approach will enable this fantastic wall to
be developed to it's full potential. There are probably a few 12's
here and we might even come up with a few G rated routes (heaven
forbid). Then again we might experiment with drilling on lead with a
Bosch (whimpy little thing that it is).
.in 1
.pa
.h1
95. THE BETSY 5.10a (115 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| About 30 ft. left of the right side of the big face adjacent to
the compressor. Look for the first bolt about 20 ft. up and climb up to
it via the most feasible (for you) route. You can fall (slide) from
this far and it's very casual, so relax and go for it. The second bolt
is located about 20 ft. higher and to the left in the only pocket you
can see. You can't see this bolt because it has a SMC hanger but it is
really there, trust me. From this bolt go slightly right and up past
the very thin crux section aiming for large holds and big pockets up to
the right and another bolt which you probably won't see. Climb up and
slightly left on what might be called a crack and exit up at a dark
streak. This is a very long and continuous route but the hardest
moves are not too far out from the bolts.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts, all with hangers. Nothing more. Nothing less.
.us 8
Named for my first
car, this route is perhaps too classic, outrageous and
wild for words. There are two crux sections but the falls are casual.
The noise from the compressor here used to
add to the unreal atmosphere but since the thing has been turned off
you will be denied this pleasure. You can of course simulate this
by strapping a Hoover vacuum cleaner to your ear.
I don't recommend looking down near the top. FFA: JB, HAn - Spring 84.

.h1
96. LEFT SIDE 5.9+ (70 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Right of the Monster Face, there is a gap in the bedding.
The Jekyll and Hyde Face is right of this gap.
Follow three bolts near the left edge of this face and
traverse right over to JEKYLL AND HYDE at a horizontal.
.h2
PRO:| Three 5/16 in. bolts.
.us 5
This route should continue straight up after the last bolt instead of
traversing off. I'll get around to this just as soon as the karma is
right. Better yet, this would be a good project for that adrenaline
fanatic Erik "Otto destruct" Wagg whom locals have described as a
"mini Marc Twight." FFA: JB, Pinhead - Spring 84.
.pa
.h1
97. JEKYLL AND HYDE 5.9+ (90 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Climb up easy holds about 12 ft. right of the left side of this
face, aiming for a 5/16 in. bolt with a Leeper hanger. Go up and left
on easy and fun climbing past 2 more 5/16 in. Leeper hanger bolts.
Above
the third bolt the character of the climb changes drastically. Go up
and slightly right following a very thin hard finger crack. This is a
bit of a run-out but at least there are holds to sink your fingers into.
At the end of a crack, head for a pocket with (thank God) a bolt. A
very hard move up left (easier if you lunge) and a delicate finish
brings you to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Four 5/16 in. bolts, all have Leeper hangers except for
the last one which has a washer.
.us 3
Even if you are not up for the spicy upper section I recommend doing
the part up to the third bolt as it contains some of the nicest moderate
friction in this quarry. FFA: JB, MMc - Spring 85.

.h1
98. DANCING PIXIES 5.9 (90 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| 10 ft. right of JEKYLL AND HYDE climb past two bolts with a
hard section to get to the horizontal above the second bolt. Easier
to the third bolt then aim for a small tree up right to top out.
.h2
PRO:| Three 5/16 in. bolts (nothing at the horizontal).
.us 3
Nice route though the run-out to the third bolt is intimidating.
Fortunately the climbing above the horizontal is easy. Not as crazy
as it appears. FFA: JB, JT - Spring 85.

.h1
99. EASY CRACK 5.8 (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Just left of a pillar, climb past two bolts staying just right
of a loose pocket. Go up to the crack then encounter some good training
for Amazon bushwacking to top out.
.h2
PRO:| Two 1/4 in. bolts with hangers, one 5/16 in. bolt with washer.
Nuts for the crack.
.us 3
The bottom is kind of interesting. Mike
Miller particularly relished cleaning the veg out of the upper crack.
FFA: MM, JB - Spring 84.
.pa
.h1
100. SUZAN'S DELIGHT 5.9 (50 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| From the
top of the large pillar, follow the bolts.
.h2
PRO:| Three 5/16 inch bolts.
.us 2
Tricky, devious climbing.
FFA: JB, Sue Mcdermot - Spring 85.

.h1
101. SURVIVAL GAME 5.10c (70 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| On the right side of the pillar climb up to a pocket with a
5/16 in. bolt with Leeper hanger. Climb up a difficult super thin crack
with a very hard mantle smear crux to gain the pocket up to the right.
Place skyhooks in the pocket and a crack-n-up in a hole to the left.
Go right to a low bolt and then up left of veg to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Three 5/16 in. bolts, take a larger crack-n-up and sky hooks.
.us 5
The fall from the crux is not ground fall but it's very exciting.
I was most distressed when I discovered that the area around the pocket
(here it's ground fall)
would not accept the expansion bolts I had with me (hollow rock).
FFA: JB, MM - Summer 84.

.h1
102. BOLT POLISH 5.10a (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. left of Surf City look for two bolts next to each
other, a 1/4 wedge that sticks out a long way and a 1/4 inch Rawl with
SMC hanger. These are at the second stance. The first stance has a
1/4 in. wedge with a washer at a horizontal crack not far off the ground.
From the second (very bad) stance go up and left to a good pocket with
a 3/8 in. bolt. Easier climbing up to top.
.h2
PRO:| Three 1/4 in. and one 3/8 in. bolts, #1 Friend.
.us 5
The second drill stance is the worst I can remember. Matt McMillan
couldn't even stand on it. The climb's name comes from the polishing
effect discovered as calmas slowly oozed off this hold.
I broke my 1/4 inch bit (hence the two bolts) while
observing this phenomenon. FFA: JB, MMc - Summer 84.

.in -1
To find the secret message to explain Eric Horst's climbing prowess is
not a complicated thing, you will not need cipher machines, computers,
or a high IQ. A 6 year old could easily find it - just look. For
instance there might be a clue on page 20.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
103. SURF CITY 5.8 (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 30 ft. left of RP'S DON'T WORK, climb an actual crack up
to a 5/16 in. bolt with a homemade hanger at a poor stance. Go up and
right to a washered bolt just right of a vegetated crack. Easy climbing
up to the top.
.h2
PRO:| Two 5/16 in. bolts, RP's, #1, #2 Friends.
.us 2
The homemade hanger requires a small gate biner. This is a relatively
tame route with no surprises. FFA: JB, RM - Fall 86.

.h1
104. RP'S DON'T WORK 5.10a (70 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| On top of a ramp just right of 2 dark streaks. Climb up
pockets then follow a very
thin crack till you can move left (crux) to a large round hold.
You should take note that this move is irreversible. If you
have the strength left to mantle onto the hold you will be rewarded
with the climb's only bolt. If not, band-aid city. Easier climbing to
the top but a major run-out.
.h2
PRO:| One 1/4 in. bolt with SMC hanger, RP's (Ha Ha).
.us 6
Totally insane route. One bolt, half-way up
the cliff, above the crux! Named for Tom Davinroy's discovery when he
fell off the mantle hold. I discovered that belaying is dangerous when
I tried to physically catch him and we both ended up tumbling down the
scree slope. I ended up with the abrasions, he didn't get a scratch.
FFA: JB, TD was too disgusted to follow - Summer 84.

.h1
105. MILLER IS A WEENIE 5.10a (75 ft.) R
.h2
Start:| Just right of RP'S DON'T WORK, follow a diagonal crack
that continues a long way up to the right. After a good distance
there is a bolt with a washer. Finish up THIN POCKETS after you get to
the third bolt on that climb, or just keep following the crack.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts, the first has a washer.
.us 5
The moves are mainly on the fingers and this climb is vaguely
reminiscent of one of the finger traverses in the Upper Quarry.
Miller has been giving me shit lately so I thought I'd keep up the
Coleman tradition.
FFA: JB, MM - Spring 87.
.pa
.h1
106. THIN POCKETS 5.10c (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| 20 ft. left of EASY ROUTE three bolts should be visible. From
the second bolt do 2 very hard moves to get to easy ground.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts, one 1/4 in. SMC hanger, two 5/16 in. Leeper hangers.
.us 3
Very classic,
You can go left at the third bolt which may be a tad easier.
FFA: JB, MMc - Spring 84.

.h1
107. EASY ROUTE 5.7+ (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| The last climb on the right before the cliff stops. Scramble
up a vegetated flake then up the face. The climb gets easier higher up.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts, 1/4 in. lock with washers, RP's in a crack at the top.
.us 3
To get off the ledge is probably harder than 5.7. It does
get easier higher up.
FFA: JB, Jack Bowers, Troy Long - Spring 84.

.ce
.bd
- CLAM WALL CLIMBS -

.h1
Coming Soon! TRADING ARMS FOR CLAMS 5.11b
At the left end of the Clam Sandwich Roof there are 2,
1/2 inch bolts for a top rope. The roof here is awesomely strenuous.

.h1
108. THE CLAM SANDWICH ROOF 5.9 (60 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| This climb ascends the large brown roof with deep
solution features that is visible on the left wall as you enter the
Compressor Quarry. Follow a path up scree through a clearing in the
vegetation to a short friction slab
(gee, it seems a fire killed the vegetation here, I wonder how that
happened).
Climb up the interesting, moderate friction,
past a bolt with a hanger to get to the base of
the roof.
Sling the giant chicken head at the start with a double length runner
and climb up on buckets and awesome undercling holds past 2 bolts
with hangers. Exit right at the notch and rap from bolts at the ledge.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts, 5/16 in. with hangers, additional bolts for belay.
.us 3
The roof is very well protected and very fun. Much credit for helping
clean (open) this route should go to JN who could not be in on the FFA.
FFA: JB, MM - Spring 87.
.pa
.h1
New! THE CLAM DOORKNOB 5.10a (75 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| From the low angle slab beneath the Clam Sandwich Roof, go
right to a bolt then up to a flake with a tree. Go left using the
"doorknob" for a bunch of moves and follow the bolts.
.h2
PRO:| 7, 1/2 in. bolts, #3 Friend.
.us 3
A wonderful adventure with no moves even remotely resembling "normal"
climbing. The doorknob move will unquestionably freak you out.
FFA: JB, GC - Fall 88.

.h1
Coming Soon! THE CLAM GROOVE 5.10a (75 ft.)
Top Rope Problem, from the flake on the Clam Doorknob route
go right up a very improbable looking ramp and end up at the belay
on Wham, Bam, Clam. This
looks impossible but some how you defy gravity on this one.

.h1
New! WHAM, BAM, THANK YOU CLAM 5.9+ (75 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| From the low angle slab beneath the Clam Sandwich Roof, go
right to the corner and past 2 bolts to the face right of the corner.
Climb up this face (tricky) past 2 bolts. From the fifth bolt, finger
traverse out a flake/roof with another bolt at the top of this.
One more bolt on a weird face brings you to a ledge with a
rap bolt.
.h2
PRO:| 8 bolts, 1/2 in. except for one 5/16 in.
.us 3
A very nice climb and one that will keep your attention more than
most in it's grade.
FFA: GC, JB - Fall 88.

.h1
New! CLAMNASTICS 5.9+ (75 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Same as the previous climb, instead of going up the thin face
traverse right across it
to a #4 Friend size crack. On the
face to the right of this there is a bolt. Go up and slightly
left past 2 more bolts with a strange move to bring you to the rap
bolt on the previous climb.
.h2
PRO:| 7 bolts, 1/2 in. except for one 5/16 in. #3 or 4 Friend.
.us 2
The crux move on this one is very height dependant. Fun and strange.
Use long runners to avoid drag. FFA: JB, GC - Fall 88.
.in -1
.pf
.pa
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.h2
SILENT QUARRY
.rt top even /%/SILENT QUARRY//
.rt top odd //SILENT QUARRY/%/
.bf text

The Silent Friction Quarry is the place to go if you want to get away
from it all.
The scenery is nice and I particularly enjoy the view
from high up on the cliff out over the sea of white limestone extending
in each direction.
You gain access to the Silent Quarry by following a gully on the left
just before the road goes right and enters the Compressor Quarry.
This quarry is in the same line as the Compressor quarry and there is
just a small hill that separates them.
As you enter the Silent Quarry, you will see two large flakes
or pillars consisting of part of the younger bedding plane.
A very enjoyable place to climb but the veg in the summer is
unreasonable.

.in 1
.h1
109. I WANT MY MTV 5.7+ (65 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Just right of the first pillar, this climb sort of follows a
dark streak. Go up the pillar a bit till you can get on the rock near
the first bolt. Climb past the 3 different types of bolts (I don't
know why I did that myself) encountering some fun mantling, lunging,
whatever works. Rapping off the third bolt is recommended.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts, two 1/4 in. with the top one a 5/16 in.
.us 4
Topping-out on this climb entailed using an extremely loose excuse for
a flake, standing on an unsupported sod bridge and lunging for small
twigs. I highly recommend you stop at the third bolt.
FFA: JB - Spring 84.

.h1
110. THE HOLE 5.9+ (65 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Directly behind a large tree about 15 ft. right of the first
pillar there is a drill hole about 3 ft. up. From the hole climb up and
left via a hard move to gain holds at a horizontal and a bolt. Above
are two bolts next to each other (one bad 1/4 in. and a better 5/16 in.)
with a hard move up to the right to gain a ledge and the last bolt. As
with the previous route I recommend rapping off the last bolt.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts.
.us 2
Perhaps too hard if the bottom is damp. Otherwise some nice climbing.
FFA: JB - Spring 84.
.pa
.h1
111. AMBIENCE 5.11a (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 10 ft. left of the second pillar climb up to a bolt then
up past what might be called a shallow crack where you can actually get
some Stoppers to fit (sideways). Go up to the 2nd bolt at a fairly
large ledge (at the Friction Quarries a two-inch wide foothold is a
ledge). From here the climbing gets progressively harder. Go up and
right to a 1/4 in. bolt, then up and left on very tenuous footholds.
The idea is to reach the horizontal crack above you. If you get the
horizontal the difficulties ease so don't sweat the run-out. Follow the
horizontal right and exit up at a small tree.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts, wires.
.us 5
A major classic route. Only one really hard section, most of the route
is 5.9 and very nice. The hard section near the top is one of the most
difficult friction moves you are likely to encounter anywhere. Some
people lunge but I prefer a fingernail layback.
FFA: JB, HA - Spring 84.

.h1
112. NINE LIVES 5.9 (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| From the top of the second pillar climb up to a 3/8 in. bolt
then up to a fixed pin in a horizontal crack. Go left and up, exiting
near the same tree as the previous route.
.h2
PRO:| One bolt, one fixed pin.
.us 3
This route was a bit too exciting in E.B.'s though it isn't too bad
in sticky shoes.
FFA: JB, JT - Spring 84.

.h1
113. ROOM FOR A ROUTE 5.8 (75 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Climb the black face on right side of pillar. Go up on large
holds to a bolt then hard moves to horizontals, easier to
top.
.h2
PRO:| One bolt, #1 Friend near top.
.us 2
There was just too much space between climbs.
FFA: JB, KD - Fall 86.

.in -1
You should take note that cold weather does wonders for friction on
Bellefonte limestone. Conversely, hot weather reduces the
edging ability of soft Stealth-type rubber and causes rapid wear.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
114. MANTLE TOWN 5.9 (75 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Climb up the small pillar just right of pillar #2. From the
top of this do a hard move up to a good ledge with a bolt. Climb up
left a short distance to the second bolt, then a hard move right and up
past pockets to the third bolt. It's a tad run-out up and rightish to
the top but the climbing is easy unless your route finding sucks (with
a running belay it may not be ground fall if you jump off the top).
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts.
.us 3
Wonderfully delightful, interesting, bizarre, - perhaps the most fun
Friction Quarry route. If you get stuck on any move just remember the
climb's name. FFA: JB, HA - Spring 84.

.h1
115. ORIGINAL ROUTE 5.9+ (85 ft.) PG-13 / R
.h2
Start:| Right of the small pillar and left of the water stained crack,
do a hard move off the ground up to a bolt then up to a ledge with the
second bolt at a stance 15 ft. above this. Climb up, then right to the
third bolt. Hard climbing up and left to the top.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts, the second is 3/8 inch. but the last is a 1/4 in. wedge.
.us 3
Very continuous climbing. When you're on this thing scaring yourself
and shaking remember - the first ascent was done in E.B.'s.
FFA: MM, JB - Fall 83.

.h1
116. POCKET CITY 5.8 (95 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Look for a bolt right of a vegetated pocket about 10 ft. up.
Climb up just right of the pocket with sort of a hard tricky move up
to a ledge above the first bolt. This bolt is bad (blame Matt) but
will hold a friction fall. Easy climbing on large holds up to the last
bolt with a 5.8-ish move above this.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts.
.us 5
One of the last routes put up in this quarry,
this thing was over-protected
deliberately to create a sort of trade route. It ended up being harder
than desired but is still a good introduction.
FFA: JB, MMc - Fall 84.
.pa
.h1
117. GODDESS 5.9+ (95 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. right of POCKET CITY and left of a large tree,
climb up pockets to a bolt, then up to the ledge and a bolt. Go up and
right to the third bolt, then left to a round pocket. From the pocket
make a hard move up and continue to the last bolt. Topping-out is no
problem.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts.
.us 7
An ultra classic route and sort of a psychological breakthrough. This
was the first route up this big unknown face. After drilling the last
bolt in E.B.'s I came to the conclusion that you can drill on any hold
that you can stay on more than a couple of seconds- it's just a matter
of having the proper mental instability, enjoying pain, and not wishing
to die as you look down and can't see your last bolt.
FFA: JB, JT - Fall 84.

.h1
118. BLIND FAITH 5.9 (95 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. left of the long water streak that marks the right
end of this bedding plane. The first bolt is a long way up and you
have to trust a questionable hold to get up to it. Go right to another
bolt above a pocket and straight up above this.
.h2
PRO:| 3 bolts.
.us 1
Go for it. FFA: JB, MM - Fall 84.

.h1
119. NO STOPPING NO STANDING 5.10d (95 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| This climb goes
up just left of the black water streak. By whatever route
you choose (easier from right) gain the large pocket 20 ft. up with a
3/8 in. bolt. Go up left past a small hole (bomber skyhook) to a bolt.
Hard moves up to the third bolt then tricky climbing up right to gain
large buckets in the streak below the ledge with the large block.
Topping-out is easy.
.h2
PRO:| One 3/8 in. bolt with SMC hanger, two 5/16 in. bolts with washers,
skyhook.
.us 3
Good route with well-protected, hard moves. Highly recommended.
The skyhook isn't strictly necessary but it's amusing and it works.
FFA: JB, KD - Fall 86.
.pa
.h1
120. EASY LEDGES 5.3 (95 ft.) NO PROTECTION
.h2
Start:| Follow the right facing corner that marks the end of the good
bedding plane.
.h2
PRO:| None (5.3's just don't rate an X grading).
.us 3
Unusual in two respects, one: I wasn't in on the first ascent, and two:
Matt McMillan actually climbed this far without any protection.
FFA: MMc, Crissy Johnson - Fall 86.

.h1
Silent Friction Quarry in a Day IV 5.11:
Around 800 ft. of very enjoyable friction climbing with only slightly
terrifying runnouts.
Actually this really isn't too bad and I have come close to
accomplishing this without really trying.
The Silent Quarry is a real good late season climbing area
as it gets afternoon sun.

.in -1
.ce
.bd
The Geometric Wall

At the far west end of the Silent Friction quarry there is a high wall
flanked by chimney on the right and a gully on the left.
This wall looks rather loose and undesirable but upon close inspection
the surface has the character of a bunch of climbing macrotiles.
As the wall is laid-back, you can climb just about anywhere on this face
at 5.6 - 5.8 so the route potential here is rather staggering. In order
to utilize this great resource to its fullest extent, the policy on this
wall is from the top down. There are many reasons for this. Since
great stances abound everywhere there is just
no challenge in putting up routes from the ground and it was decided that
5 inch long, 3/8 inch diameter bolts are to be used for safety
as the bedding is thin and questionable. Were the routes put up from the
ground they would all be rated 5.7-ish and R or X because we are sick.
As it is, enormous restraint is being used in creating G routes
(Bellefonte has a great shortage of
moderate well protected routes)
as the locals just love to run it out.
Also, the approach is from the top.
Do to the fairly generic nature of these climbs I'm not going to the
trouble of naming them or writing up descriptions. They all have
large fender washers instead of hangers.
Go to the Geometric wall, find a line of bolts, and climb up it.
.pa
.in -1
.pf
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.h2
DOUBLE SECRET QUARRY
.rt top even /%/DOUBLE SECRET QUARRY//
.rt top odd //DOUBLE SECRET QUARRY/%/
.bf text

Due to the fact that this is the only quarry with an obnoxious noise
maker this is the least popular of the Bellefonte quarries.
I originally thought that the routes in this quarry would be mainly
friction climbing as the rock resembles that found in the Friction
Quarries.
However after a few routes I discovered that this is not the case.
The climbing is truly strange and wonderful - not really friction but
more akin to what you might find on broken granite which is what the
cliff resembles at first glance. There are few cracks but a variety
of roofs, corners, grooves and some indescribable features.
The rock quality varies greatly but is generally solid.
The lighter colored rock is generally more solid than the darker stuff
but has less friction. Because of the more convoluted nature of this
cliff first ascent parties will find loose rock resting
on ledges and other features so beware - this is a very virgin quarry.
Most routes are located in the canyon past the exit fan for the mines
below.
The fan isn't too annoying since most climbs are back in
the canyon where the acoustics tend to quiet the thing.
To reach this quarry turn north
on the semi dirt-road off of rt. 155
at the Con Lime sign. After you cross the creek, park at the corner
and walk up hill a short distance to a wide dirt path. Go left on this,
uphill, until it ends at a good road (the second road you encounter)
with the quarry entrance visible on the right.
If you get lost, follow your ear.
I recommend a low profile as a lime plant is nearby.
It's quite possible that the fan here has recently been shut off.
This would be quite welcome news as this quarry has
fantastic potential for new routes.

.bd
Contest Clarification Information:
I'm sure by now a few readers are a bit confused by what exactly they
are looking for in the Eric-Horst-climbing-prowess-Endo-chalk give
away. Well you see I can't make it too clear cut or it wouldn't be
much of a challenge now would it?
You are looking for something, I can't really say what, but when you
find it you will know you have found it and all the clues will
make sense but the clues won't really help you find it.
Got it?
.in 1
.pa
.h1
121. ROUNDABOUT 5.7 (80 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| About 20 ft. past a long earthen mound there are 2 steel rods.
The right one is long and downward curving and is the first point of
protection. From this rod (semi-natural feature so it's a legal hold)
go up right on a bit of a run-out to a pocket with a washered bolt.
From here follow the ramp up left to a pocket with a #1.5 Friend then
up the broken rock to the top.
.h2
PRO:| 1 bolt, 1 steel rod, #1.5 Friend.
.us 1
Be very careful with loose rock. FFA: JM, JB - Fall 86.

.h1
122. TWO SAVAGES 5.9 (75 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Same as the previous route but instead of going left at the
first bolt go straight up on beautiful climbing to a
good stance with a bolt. Top-out straight up.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts, 1 steel rod.
.us 2
What a route! If there are more climbs like this one, this quarry is
going to become popular. FFA: RM, JB - Winter 87.

.h1
123. SPACE CADETS HAVE MORE FUN 5.9+ PG-13
.h2
Start:| Next to the earthen mound and directly behind the largest tree
in this area. Climb up the very steep broken face left of some dark
streaks. This is about 15 ft. left of a left arching crack. Fun
(and committing) 5.6 climbing to a good stance about 20 ft. up
with a poor #1.5 Friend and #1 T.C.U. Go up to the right
to a large grass-covered ledge with a bolt. Up a ramp on the right
to another ledge below a roof. Good #1 Friends under the roof which
you tackle on the left using a right facing undercling. (70 ft.)
.h2
PRO:| 1 bolt, several #1 and 1.5 Friends.
.us 3
This is a marvelous climb. The bottom is neat but lacking in pro - no
problem if you are confident at 5.6. The only 5.9 is the roof which
is well-protected and a blast. FFA: JB, JM - Fall 86.

.in -1
All kidding aside, Eric Horst is truely the pioneer of hard
climbing at Bellefonte. Now that he has moved on to bigger
and better things I'd just like to say, Eric, we miss you.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
124. NO LCF'S 5.10b (75 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| About halfway between the small shack and an earthen mound
there is a shallow groove and the rock at the top of this is more broken
than usual. Climb up this groove with a hard move off the wide ledge
which is 10 ft. off the quarry floor. There is a washered bolt about 10
ft. up and another one about 8 ft. above this one below a roof. Take the
roof on the left with some difficult and delicate stemming then a
mother of a move to get on the large hold above the roof.
A run-out on much easier climbing up to the right to gain small trees to
tie off. Continue up to the top on fun granite-like rock.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts, #1 Friend.
.us 4
The name has something to do with lycra. Unusual climbing
but the rock in
the groove is not real firm (probably the reason for the groove).
FFA: JB, JM - Fall 86.

.h1
125. BUTTERFLIES 5.9- (90 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| 20 feet past the small shack climb up to a washered bolt
then up to a stance and another bolt over the lip of a small roof.
Undercling left and crank the roof left of a small dihedral at
a small bucket. Go up and slightly left to a bolt below another
interesting section where you go up and slightly right.
Continue up steep but easy rock and trend
left on some ramps to a bolt at a smooth face below the top. A hard
boulder problem to top-out.
The best belay location for this route and the next one is on top of
the shed. This also enables a dynamic start to the routes.
.h2
PRO:| 4 bolts all with washers.
.us 5
If you only do one climb in this quarry this should be the one.
The climbing from the second bolt up is wonderful and the roof is
really fun.
To quote the immortal words of Bret Reyburn, "this is a cool climb."
FFA: JB, KD - Spring 87.

.in -1
Apologies to folks who aren't into elaborate route descriptions.
The aim here is not to reduce adventure but to entice visitors
onto the best climbs. Obvious lines at Bellefonte often aren't great
(Dismal World Right) while inobvious lines often are quite awesome.
.in 1
.pa
.h1
126. VERTICAL TAKEOFF 5.11a (90 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| Directly behind the small shack on top of a good ledge. Climb
up past 2 bolts with a very technical sequence to get over the bulge.
This section was first led at an earlier date by Mike Miller under wet
conditions.
Go past 2 more bolts to the good sized roof above. Go left to a bolt
and pull the roof left of this. A hard move to gain a bucket then
a poor bolt although topping-out is easy.
.h2
PRO:| 6 bolts, all with washers.
.us 3
The first bulge is very technical and the roof tricky.
It may be wise to anchor into the guy wire behind the shed.
FFA: JB, Bret Reyburn - Summer 87.

.h1
Variation finish: BYPASS 5.8 PG
.sk 0
At the roof go very far right past a bolt and finish up left of
a corner.
FFA: RM, JB - Spring 87.

.h1
127. JIMNASTICS 5.8+ (65 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| Thirty feet before the shack climb up on easy friction and
ledges to a bolt below a small roof. This is just left of a dark streak
where there is a gap in the roof. Pull the roof (there is a bucket)
to another bolt then exit up left via a tricky ramp.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts with washers of course.
.us 2
A rather fun route with tricky climbing.
FFA: JB, JN - Spring 87.

.h1
128. FRESH STRAWBERRIES 5.6 (65 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Same as for JIMNASTICS, go right to a bolt just under a dark
groove that cuts through the roof. Pull the roof right of the groove and
continue right up an easy ramp to the top.
.h2
PRO:| One bolt with washer.
.us 2
Not too hard though the run out to top-out may give pause.
FFA: MMo, JB - Spring 87.

The fact that there no clues to the Eric-Horst-Endo-chalk give away
contest on this particular page might actually be a good clue.
.pa
.h1
129. GUNKS MOVES 5.9+ (60 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| About halfway between
the compressor and the small shack, look closely for a washered bolt
about 10 ft. up. Climb
"Gunks" moves up the horizontals then go left to a bolt
in a pocket with a tricky move to top out.
.h2
PRO:| 2 bolts, #1 and #2 Friends.
.us 2
The first route in this quarry.
FFA: JB, MMc - Spring 85.

.h1
130. IF SEAGULLS HAD FIRES 5.9 (60 ft.) PG-13
.h2
Start:| Before the compressor, right of the big chimney with the giant
chockstone there is a large corner. Right of this corner there is a
face with 3 evenly spaced dark streaks (the middle streak is much
lighter). Climb up this face to a ledge (devious, difficult, with no
pro) then go left to a 2-inch crack and flake which you undercling
(5.5, well protected).
.h2
PRO:| #2.5, #3 Friends, wires.
.us 2
Treat the lower wall as a boulder problem and you should have no
problem. FFA: JB, MMo - Spring 87.

.h1
131. UNFINISHED OPUS 5.8 (70 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| As you walk into the quarry there is a large overhanging face.
Around the left corner of this face climb up to a ledge from some dirt
piles. Follow an obvious crack that weaves around corners and small
overhangs and go left to a stance with 2 bolts below a steep blank
face. This is the current high point as the scary
face (at least 5.11) has repulsed a few attempts.
.h2
PRO:| 2 washered bolts, wires, #1, 1.5 Friends.
.us 3
I am listing this climb as
the climbing up to this point is very classic and you can lower
from the bolts with no problem.

.h1
132. LAST CHANCE FOR GLORY 5.4 (50 ft.) PG
.h2
Start:| At the entrance to the quarry
there is a small roof with a large crack going up it and
a small tree in the crack.
.h2
PRO:| Larger Friends.
.us 1
Fairly easy. FFA: WB, John Etzil, DS - Winter 87.
.pa
.in -1
.pf
.h2
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.h2
PLEASANT GAP QUARRIES
.bf text

Despite the considerable route potential of the Pleasant gap quarries,
only one route has been completed to date - but what a route!
To get to the Pleasant Gap quarries go to Pleasant Gap.
Go east on route 155 from the light
and after a short distance turn right on White
Rock road.
Park at the end of White Rock road and follow a path past a gate and
alongside a farmer's field.
Hypoxia is in the first quarry
and is about 150 yards from White Rock road.
.in 1

.h1
New! HYPOXIA 5.11c (170 ft.) G
.h2
Start:| A very smooth grey face right of the pillar bisecting the
first wall as you walk into the quarry.
.h2
Pitch 1:| Follow the bolts up the left side of the grey face (the
first few moves are the crux). Go over a roof to easier climbing above
and traverse right to an arete with a 2 bolt belay
(5.11, G).
.h2
Pitch 2:| From the belay go right and up past two bolts to an obvious
horizontal above a very big roof. Traverse right on the horizontal
to the end at an arete where you can top-out (5.6, PG).
.h2
PRO:| Lots of 3/8 inch bolts, Tricams, Friends, wires for pitch 2.
.us 4
Totally awesome route. The bottom crux is hard with a wild sequence,
the rest of the first pitch is 5.9-ish, steep and fun, and the
belay is wildly exposed. The second pitch is very, very, very exposed.
FFA: JB, RM, EW - Summer 88.

.h1
Coming Sometime? TRADING ARMS FOR SAUSAGES 5.11? PG?
.h2
Start:| In the Second Pleasant Gap quarry (yes there are two and
you can find it yourself) there is an incomplete route up a
crack through a roof to the left as you walk in the quarry.
.h2
PRO:| Tricams, Friends, wires, etc.
.us 4
I wasn't going to put this in but Tom really likes the name so
here it is. TD and MM worked a bit on this but haven't gotten past
the lip of the roof. There is GEAR at the lip for those of you
who need incentive to try this.
.pa
.in -1
.pf
.rt top even /%/OTHER AREAS//
.rt top odd //OTHER AREAS/%/
.bf text
There are lots of other rock climbing areas in the Bellefonte, State
College area. Donation, Huntingdon, and Pulpit rocks (to name a few)
are popular top rope areas on quartzite. There are also 2 spectacular
new sandstone areas whose location I cannot divulge.
For the guide,
I am restricting coverage to predominantly limestone cliffs.

.bi
BALLS AGAINST THE WALL QUARRY
This quarry is located directly off route 150. The one climb,
Balls Against The Wall, is incomplete (5 ft. from the top).
This climb is 5.12- so far and has a long frustrating history.
This and other routes await ascents in this rather unaesthetic quarry.

.bi
EMPIRE QUARRY
Seventy foot high near vertical walls with cracks, corners, zillions
of marginal single digit finger pockets and scores of 12's, 13's,
and harder. Too bad I'm not telling where it is.

.bi
SUNNYSIDE QUARRY
Located directly behind the Lime Mill, this quarry has a 20 ft. face
with some very fine friction bouldering.
Where Thomas Street takes a sharp left hand turn, go right and
downhill on the small road past the Warner company buildings. Take a
right then go left on an unpaved road which goes up left of a large
garage.

.bi
LOCK HAVEN AREA
In Castanea, there is a large slab visible from route 220.
Save the Seals 5.8 (160 ft.) PG follows 3 bolts up the left of this
exposed slab (this stuff isn't limestone but the climbing is similar
to that found in the Friction Quarries).
The large quarry at Salona has a couple of climbable faces with some
bolt protected routes. The upper face in the southeast end is about
60 feet and has undergone some amazing engineering by local climbers
to remove loose rock and improve the aesthetics of the area.
The lower level near the water at the southwest corner has some
short but hard climbs.
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ICE CLIMBING
.bf text

Good ice is a rare commodity in Pennsylvania yet there is no shortage
of crazed pick-wielding individuals seeking out frozen adventures.
Historically, the Centre county area ice scene has been non-existent
as the consensus had it that there just wasn't any climbable ice
within a short drive of the Bellefonte - State College area.
Fortunately some interesting discoveries in recent years have changed
this situation
and there is sufficient local ice to satisfy the palette of the
most discriminating ice climber. The temperature in the central PA
area averages a few degrees cooler than eastern and southern parts of
the state and more importantly, all the areas are in the shade
so the ice that forms tends to last throughout the season.

.pf
.h2
PLEASANT GAP QUARRIES
.bf text
This 150 ft. ice climb is in a quarry off route
64 just north of Pleasant Gap. Go north of Pleasant Gap on 64 just past
an Agway gas station on the left. Park at the 64 and 26 route sign
about 50 yards before the route 26 interchange. There is a dirt
turn-off to a farmers field here. Follow the fence row
about 200 yards and the quarry is on the right.
The climb consists of 4 steep
sections broken by wide ledges. In 1988 the quarry people were gracious
enough to spend enormous sums of money to lengthen
this route by about 20 ft.

.pf
.h2
LOCK HAVEN ICE CLIMBS
.bf text
About 20 miles west of Lock Haven on route 120 there are three very
nice climbing areas within a short distance of each other.
I've climbed at just about all the Pennsylvania ice areas and these
rank high on my list in terms of quality ice.
Word has filtered out about this area but not detailed information
which is necessary as the best ice is well-hidden and not visible
from the road. It took a long time for us to discover
these hidden areas and people have
driven here from as far away as Philadelphia only to return because
they erroneously thought that nothing was in shape.
.pa
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ROADSIDE GULLY
.bf text
The only obvious Lock Haven area is this
very long gully located next to rt. 120
at about mile marker 1855. This gully is around 400 ft. long and
the bottom is often not completely frozen due to the large amount of
water that flows down it.
Be careful in this gully because I've seen large ice chunks go all the
way to the road from the top (you could too).
Also this thing avalanches occasionally!
The interesting climbing is in the large
amphitheater near the top which starts out with
a 30 ft. high flow with a large
tree leaning up against it. Above this, many intriguing, scary and
sick climbs ascend flows up the steep cliff band.
Short descriptions from left to right follow.
.in 1

.bd 1
Left Pillar -
The wet pillar on the far left usually forms o.k. but topping out can
often be tricky. FFA: JB, Brent Buzard - 86.

.bd 1
Mixed Fun -
About 20 ft. to the right of Left Pillar,
moderate climbing leads to a left-facing verglassed ramp which ends at a
large tree overhanging the cliff (bear hug it). This fun route is
almost always in climbable condition.
FFA: JB, MMc - 83.

.bd 1
Thriller Pillar -
In the middle of the cliff there sometimes is a super thin pillar
(you can put your arms around it) - wild and sick.
FFA: MM, JB - 85.

.bd 1
Mixed Madness -
Right of Thriller Pillar, there is a thin drip which goes up under a
rock overhang and abruptly stops. Go left from the overhang
through a notch on mixed snow, veg and rock - very insane.
FFA: JB, KK - 83.

.bd 1
Glass Menagerie -
This large steep pillar on the next higher cliff band came in shape
twice to my knowledge, in 83 and 87 - sick and strenuous.
FFA: HAn, JB - 83.
.in -1

"Smallest hole I ever stuck anything in" - Russ Clune commenting on
Sexy Love Slots.
.pa
.pf
.bi
GEMINI GULLIES
.bf text
The area that is consistently in shape all the time is this pair of
250 ft. high
gullies located on the opposite side of the river just past the Roadside
Gully.
There is a large fence here to protect the railroad from falling
matter. You can see this area across the river from the road at about
mile marker 1800, but you can't see the ice in the gullies because they
are hidden by large pines. To get there either walk across the river
(rope up) or drive north on 120 till you cross a bridge.
Take the next left and follow the river and the railroad track back
south (crossing back underneath the bridge).
The climbing is obvious and the gullies get progressively
steeper.
This area tends to give you a feeling of total isolation from the rest
of civilization (until a train comes by of course).
Perhaps the most reliable ice in Pennsylvania.

.pf
.bi
HIDDEN AMPHITHEATER
.bf text
This area is located past the roadside gully before you cross the
river at about mile marker 1600.
Once you pass mile marker 1605, park as soon as the guard rail on the
right ends.
You can't see this climb at all from the road but follow
a steep stream gully past fallen trees
about 100 yards until you come to an impressive amphitheater.
Not always in shape but usually some nice steep
ice.

.bd
.ce
- Ice Trivia Fact -
Ice gradually increases in hardness with decreasing
temperature, and at a temperature of -80 Celsius has a hardness of
6 on the Mohr scale which is equivalent to that of Granite!

.bd
.ce
- Rock Trivia Fact -
Quartzite, the rock most eastern climbers climb on,
has twice the thermal conductivity of limestone which is why it seems
cold and hard to the touch - while limestone feels softer, warmer,
forgiving - sexy.

.bd
.ce
- Horst Trivia Fact -
Eric Horst's last name is pronounced like Patty Hearst's last name
and not like the geologic term "Horst" which is the opposite of a
Grabben.
.pa
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HISTORY
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Death Star Quarry| -
This quarry was known about for some time (I remember Dave Dangle
talking about it in 81) but sheer steepness and lack of obvious lines
kept people from doing any actual climbing.
I remember showing the quarry to a lot of people but every time we went
there all we did was look.
Eric Horst became enamored with the possibilities and was
quite obsessed with Darth Vader in particular, spending a lot of
time working on this route (this was the old Eric Horst).
After Eric's vacation from rock climbing (when he was interested
in becoming a different sort of rock star) he polished Darth Vader
off rather easily. Eric (the new Eric Horst)
had amazing boldness to think S.D.I.
would go free and he did this route as well as
A Lesson In Layback both in an afternoon although these were not
strictly redpoint ascents.
Horst's last efforts in the Death Star Quarry included Pigs in a Pile
although he failed on this due to cold weather and a bad cold
(Horst whines a lot when he is sick).
The Development of the Heuco Wall started in 87 with
the obvious plumbs Hyperspace, Pigs in a Pile, Fish Dreams, etc.,
being picked by the standard Bellefonte locals
(Mix, Bowers, Davinroys, Miller). Rick Mix's first ascent of Pigs
in a Pile seemed to mark a turning point in his life as he
started to actually do hard climbing climbing instead of talk
about it (Mix actually is a very good climber).
In spring of 87, top-roping revealed two more Heuco Wall gems:
Brown Cows, and Peacock Nebula, which firmly
established the farm animals and outerspace theme for this wall.
These two routes had appeared next to impossible from the ground but
went at a surprisingly easy grade which gives promise for more fine
routes on this wall.
Bob Hostetter very recently (Dec 88)
found the hardest climbing
at Bellefonte with his top rope ascent of The Minimal Chance (5.13b),
the impossible looking feature left of Darth Vader,
and attempts at an even harder route whose location (in the Death
Star Quarry) I won't divulge.
.sk 0
.bi
Upper Quarry| -
I won't go into much about the early climbing as not much is known.
Apparently there was a lot of activity from
Penn State students in the 60's
but as the climbing population kept changing due to people graduating
and leaving there isn't anyone who really knows what happened.
This is one of the reasons why I think guide books are a good idea.
The history of an area is written down for later generations who
might be curious (like me).
The classic climb Coleman is a Faggot was done in the mid 70's by
Mike Warner.
Besides Ken Kruickshank's very bold leads of Fester Heart and Suzy,
the free climbing scene in the late 70's was pretty stagnant.
El Crackitan, Left Hand Eliminate, Coleman and S.C. were the test pieces
and pretty much the only high standard leads.
As such these routes were climbed
to death by all locals and visitors. On a rare crowded day if these
routes were occupied then people pretty much just sat around and waited.
White Line Fever had been done as an aid route and lots of people
worked on freeing this with Russ Clune eventually succeeding.
Hugh Herr did the classic
Vertical Paths and later added Joint Dislocator so all
the Bellefonte "cracks" had at last been climbed (well not really).
Huey's climbs were quite brilliant as well as very difficult but he
(like everyone else) concentrated on the cracks because of the need for
pro. The blank faces awaited a horrible yet necessary contraption -
"the drill."
The use of bolts has enabled Bellefonte to evolve into the outstanding
climbing area it is today and ushered in the "golden age" of Bellefonte
climbing which began in 1986 and continues today.
At first much confusion reigned over the style of bolt placement with a
bottom up style used in the beginning.
I had been doing a lot of bolting on the blank Friction Quarry walls
from the ground up and
so the initial bolting style in the Upper Quarry was ground up with
rather exciting ascents of Handle with Care, and Bladerunner.
As new route activity progressed in the Upper Quarry the
bottoms up protection style there got confused as certain climbs
were rather devoid of drill stances.
For Heads and Tails,
Mike Miller and I flipped a coin
to determine the tactics we would employ to
place pro (heads from the ground, tails from rap).
Heads it was and Mike did a good job placing the first pin and bolt.
In order to place the second bolt I used a skyhook but when I managed to
get clipped into the hook with
absolutely no strength left,
the damn thing went ping and sent me flying.
The coin got reflipped - thus the name of the route.
Fortunately, this was the first and last
attempt at the ludicrous sport of drilling bolts from skyhooks.
Heads And Tails was the beginning of a rash of finger
traverse routes and there are now five.
Welcome To Bedrock is as good as any route here and went
at a surprisingly easy grade. The rising finger traverses on the face
above the water solved the problem of this face being too short for
routes. These climbs are a definite adventure and classics in
their own weird way.
In the fall of 86
a whirlwind of extreme climbing swept through the Upper Quarry in the
form of Eric Horst.
This resulted in Realm Of The Senseless, Dancing In The Dragon's
Jaw, Autumn Arch, and Power Windows.
Eric had no desire to pursue bottom up protection but then again he
did not approach routes in the current French style (i.e. top-rope,
then hang-dog, then redpoint).
In fact this was back when French tactics were considered pussy.
Horst would get a crazy idea for a climb and rap down and
place occasional bolts
(or better yet, poor pins) without even
knowing if these were on route or could be clipped.
On the rare climb that Horst top-roped before he attempted to lead
(Realm of the Senseless) he would make sure to place the bolts
extra far apart.
Needles to say, Horst would be scared out of his senses
as he led up these desperate climbs.
Unfortunately Eric did not have the time to redpoint all of these
routes.
No one else has expressed a desire to repeat any of the
Horst routes and the bolts on Dragon's Jaw and Realm of the
Senseless have been removed for safety reasons (while borrowing the
hangers for subsequent climbs, it was discovered that the bolt placements
on these routes were very botched).
With the Horst routes, rappel bolting had
officially come to the
Upper Quarry and all subsequent routes have been top down.
Amazingly, 1987 brought no new routes to the Upper quarry and the
local opinion was that the quarry was climbed out.
Nothing could have
been farther from the truth and In 1988 all hell broke loose with over
twenty new routes in the "climbed out" Upper quarry. The factors that
contributed to this route explosion were: a Ryobie gas powered hammer
drill, Dolomite Magica climbing shoes, and lots of spare time by Bowers
and Mix.
The style of ascent of these new routes was strictly French. A route
would be top-roped and bolt locations marked out with magic marker
to insure optimum placements.
The climb was then rap bolted with very bombproof bolts and redpointed.
Space does not permit me to list all the new routes, suffice to
say, 5.11 and 5.12 are now firmly established in the Upper quarry,
with several excellent routes in each letter grade subdivision.
New routes have appeared on every wall including the previously
"impossible" wall to the right of The Flake.
Rick Mix spied what appeared to be a hold 20 ft. up this wall and as
a joke, a top-rope effort ensued.
Many top-ropes and red point efforts later, Mix finally managed to
bag the first quarry 5.13. The Nothing Atolls is well named as
there really aren't any holds on this climb.
I suppose I can't finish a discussion of Upper quarry climbing without
mentioning Manufractured, the finger crack that allegedly was cut into
the wall left of Welcome to Bedrock.
Bellefonte climbers have often lamented over the lack of a 5.11 finger
crack in the quarry particularly as we have
excellent 5.9 and 5.10 cracks.
One day, our wish was granted as a beautiful 5.11c finger
crack appeared.
Rumors abounded as to the origin of this crack (earthquake, dissolution
of a calcite seam with acid, etc.)
although the currently held opinion is
that the crack resulted from
bizzare rappel manipulations of a rented concrete saw and a diamond
blade.
Eric Horst managed to forgo a weekend at the New
River to bag the first lead of this mysterious crack.
Although he had much reservation about
the ethics involved in sawing a crack into the quarry wall, he was
quite ecstatic when he found that the climb had given him a numb
digit that lasted for over a month.
.sk 0
.bi
Lower Quarry| -
The Lower Quarry was generally neglected for a considerable length of
time.
Some top roping had been done on the Leopard Wall but rarely because of
the nasty bushwack required to set one up.
This is no longer the case as we have controlled
the veg at the top of the
wall with fire, herbicide, and machete.
The first official route in the Lower Quarry was Feets.
I put the bolts in on rappel one cold December day (1981) but no one got
around to leading the thing until late spring (Glen Thomas).
I realize now that Feets could be put up on the lead but back then
the thought of leading up this face was a radical thing. All I was
really concerned with was strength (the bolts are very bomber but they
took a half hour each to drill).
The Herr routes, done by Tony Herr, showed up about a year later.
Where There's Rope There's Burns (1985) was the first local effort
and took two (painful) days. Mike Miller became infected with
the Leopard Wall and some of
the most classic routes are the result of his efforts.
He lead Chainsaw Madness via the bolts on what is now Take Heart.
Next day a new route effort to the left merged into the same climb
giving two starts (this is when he took the spectacular fall).
Mike considered Casual Stances overbolted (ha ha) in comparison and
actually felt bad about his effort on this (ho ho).
Miami Mice is probably the best of the Miller routes and has very
consistently hard climbing.
Most of the routes to the right of the Leopard Wall are pretty much
the result of first ascent fever. The exception is unquestionably
Mystery Footholds. This climb is wild and should be on everyone's
list of routes to do at Bellefonte. Mike and I worked on this quite
a bit and the loose rock that existed was removed the hard way. Each
hold that broke off the climb necessitated finding a new sequence.
.sk 0
.bi
Friction Quarries| -
For all of you who think you are familiar with Bellefonte, this
climbing area will probably come as a surprise.
Until this guide, very few people knew about these unique quarries and
the climbing they contain.
The Friction quarries were discovered in the fall of 82 by
Matt McMillan, fellow geologist, and the world's foremost target for
female rejection, and myself.
After a long, physically demanding hike over huge piles
of what is best described as "moon dust," we staggered into the
Compressor Quarry and somehow ascertained that the large blank walls
were climbable.
That day we managed to get halfway up Easy Crack, placing what would now
be considered an excessive number of bolts (this always seems to happen
when I put up routes with Matt).
Returning later with Mike Miller (by a much easier way) we discovered
the Silent Quarry and completed a climb (The Original Route)
putting in what most people would consider to be not enough bolts (but
this always seems to happen when I put up routes with Mike).
Most of the routes in the Silent Quarry were put up in spring of 83
with old E.B. rubber so they were actually much more serious climbs than
they are now.
I had one particularly notable day with Jing Tsong
putting up Goddess and Nine Lives and scaring myself silly in
the process.
Ambience got started but the crux section repulsed my E.B.'s then later
repulsed a pair of Contacts.
With a pair of newly purchased Calmas I finished Ambience with Heather
Anthony and also did Mantletown.
As route potential in the Silent Quarry diminished, attention focused
on the Compressor Quarry in the summer of 83.
The thin crack of RP's Don't Work was Tom Davinroy's idea but after his
spectacular fall in E.B.'s he was too disgusted to even second it after I
got up it.
Hank Andolsek and I did The Betsy with Hank taking the longest lead
fall I've ever seen onto the second bolt (actually I didn't see it as I
was too busy running but it was the longest I ever ran!).
The two black streaks down the rock were a hilarious sight.
Hank was unharmed and I finished the climb by going right at the second
bolt instead of left as he did.
Much time was spent on the ultimate bad luck climb, Master The Monster.
It always seemed to rain every time we roped up on this thing and
believe it or not the first 2 bolts were placed in the rain by Mike
Miller. With Hank I got up to a pocket and placed the third bolt but
neither of us could make much further headway.
I wanted no part of this climb until fall of 86 when I finished it with
Kathy Davinroy as well as doing No Stopping No Standing, and
Room For A Route.
In late fall of 88 there was a spillover of the first ascent madness
from the Upper quarry to the Clam wall (this wall gets sun) with
all sorts of high quality clam routes put up.
The future will probably see the beginning of rap bolted friction
routes in the Compressor Quarry as we have become quite spoiled by
our Ryobie gasoline powered hammer drill.
In particular the Monster face next to the now dead compressor might
yield perhaps half a dozen more excellent and hard lines if time is
spent rapping down and planning the routes out in advance.
This method won't be nearly as much fun as ground up, but more logical
lines (with sane protection) will result.
.pa
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GEOLOGY
.rt top even /%/GEOLOGY//
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.bf text
A lot of guide books have somewhat of a discussion on this subject and
most of these are cursory, drab, boring and often inaccurate.
Considering that I have acquired a B.S. in this subject from a large
nearby university there is just no way I can produce this guide without
espousing on this subject (too bad for you).
The resulting discussion will probably be long, boring and probably
inaccurate.
The Bellefonte Quarry just happens to be an excellent place to learn a
little bit about the geological sciences.
After all, a lot of climbers spend more time looking at rocks than most
geologists do and if Eskimoes have 52 different names for snow it
follows that climbers might benefit by learning a little geology
(does that make sense?).
Anyway, with a thorough reading of
this section you should be able to impress your partners as you walk
through the quarry, pointing out fascinating geological phenomena.
To begin with, what is limestone and how in the hell did it get here?
Limestone is a rather unique rock in that it is created from living
creatures who produce the stuff to make up their skeletons.
The next time you climb and are bored in the middle of some 5.10 move
take a little time to stare at the rock in front of you.
Some of the fossils that are visible include Brachiopods (sea shells),
Cephalapods (look like snails), and Crinode stems (these resemble
tiny wheels). From this assemblage of critters you can conclude that
this rock was at one time a real gooky lime mud and shell hash at the
bottom of a shallow sea some 500 million years ago.
The large flat faces upon which we climb were once the surface of
this muck.
These faces are now quite hard and
inclined about 75 degrees but they were once very mushy and
horizontal.
In the Lower Quarry, right of the Leopard Wall, there are some quite
spectacular ripples in the rock.
These are very similar to ripples in the sand you see at the beach and
are formed in the same way.
From the size of the ripples geologists can get an idea of the water
depth and currents (not that knowing these things ever did any geologist
any good).
The rock in the quarries is layered (like most sedimentary rocks) and
the geological term for these layers are bedding planes.
These layers occur because of some change in the sediment deposited,
usually a layer of clay.
The changes represent weaknesses and the rock tends to
break and form cracks along them.
The face to the left of Left Hand Eliminate is perpendicular to the
bedding plane and the layers are visible.
This face is analogous to the face left of Triple-S at Seneca Rocks with
cracks occurring between the vertical layers.
We climbers are fortunate in that the method used to extract the
limestone consisted of removing one layer or bedding plane at a time,
sort of like removing one slice of bread.
The lime company was only interested in a few specific beds (the
Valentine formation) which are pure enough to manufacture chemical lime.
This method of quarrying is quite spectacular to watch.
They drill a bunch of shallow
holes throughout the surface of one
bedding plane, fill them with explosives and Kaboom!
After all the dust clears a new (older) bedding plane is exposed
completely intact.
So even though Bellefonte is a quarry, you climb on natural features
(the old surface of the bottom of the sea).
Each bedding plane is different with unique climbing
characteristics accounting for the great variability of the climbing
here.
Now, things weren't so quiet and peaceful 500 million years ago.
If you study the chimney on the lower level (below Dragons Jaw) you
will see that this chimney formed because a much softer
material sandwiched between two limestone beds has eroded out.
This material is bentonite - volcanic ash and
judging by the thickness of this layer the eruption was quite a bit
larger than Mt. Saint Helens.
This is the most obvious bentonite bed but there are several others you
might try to locate in your travels through the main quarry area.
Bentonite beds such as this are useful to a geologist in that they
serve as a marker bed.
The same bentonite layer twenty miles away in different rock will let
a geologist know that the rocks directly below are the same age.
After the limestone mud got buried by overlying sediments it slowly
changed into rock by heat and pressure.
Not a whole lot happened to it until Europe and Africa rudely smashed
into North America some 300 million years ago, folding these sedimentary
rocks up like ripples in a table cloth.
A lot of faulting took place and there are
some spectacular examples of this in the Lower Quarry.
Faults occur when the rock breaks and moves along planes of weakness
(felt locally as earthquakes by the dinosaurs).
The entire Leopard Wall face is a textbook example of a bedding plane
fault.
The rock moved along the bedding plane forming a void which filled in
with calcite.
The rock later moved again along this plane breaking up the calcite
layer, leaving patches of calcite stuck on the lower layer and
forming grooves on the patches all aligned in the same direction.
These grooves, called slickenslides, can be used to tell the direction of
the fault.
If you run you hand from bottom to top over one of these patches it will
feel smooth as compared from top to bottom.
This tells you that the upper layer moved up relative to the lower
layer.
If you fold a deck of cards in half you will also see that the upper
cards move up relative to the lower cards, so this fault is a direct
result of the folding of this layer.
To the right of the Leopard Wall there is another fault perpendicular to
the bedding with curving tension fractures.
These fractures indicate that the right side moved up relative to the
left side.
So much for past history, what about the future?
The geologic history of these quarries is certainly not complete.
Limestone landforms have been extensively studied by scientists known
as Karst Geomorphologists.
It's been found that with few exceptions
limestone cliffs only occur in dry subtropical
areas (like Utah, southern France, Italy) and arctic and alpine
areas. In these regions, the major weathering agents are wind and
water - in Pennsylvania it's plants.
Plant roots produce prodigious amounts of carbonic and humic acids
which,
combined with sufficient moisture, will dissolve away limestone
(quartzite and granite are relatively insoluble).
The future of the quarries
lies in the hands of a few dedicated, unsung, overworked
plant haters who selflessly
strive to keep Bellefonte from becoming a vegetated rubble heap.
You, yes you the casual visitor, can help slow the erosional process
by kindly snuffing out the life of any plant you don't take a
fancy to - particularly at the top of climbs.
So much for the lesson in geology (and antiplant propaganda).
Now, don't you feel enlightened?
.pa
.pf
.rt top even /%/APPENDIX//
.rt top odd //APPENDIX/%/
.bf text
.bd
FIRST ASCENT NAME ABBREVIATIONS
The Abbreviations below are used to save space, typing, and to
minimize the ego trip associated with seeing ones name in print.

.cd set 2
DS - Dave Seasholtz
DC - Dan Cossaboon
EH - Eric Horst
EW - Erik "Otto" Wagg
GT - Glen Thomas
GC - George Cody
HA - Heather Anthony
HAn - Hank Andolsek
HH - Hugh Herr
JB - Jim Bowers
JM - Joe Migliaccio
JN - Jim Nonnemaker
.cb
JT - Jing Tsong
KD - Kathy Davinroy
KK - Ken Kruickshank
MMc - Matt McMillan
MMo - Mark Moran
MM - Mike Miller
MP - Mike Panciera
RB - Rob Brawley
RM - Rick Mix
TD - Tom Davinroy
TH - Tony Herr
WB - Wayne Barnard
.cd set 1

.bd
SERVICES
Although fairly large, Bellefonte can't shake a stick at
State College
for extra-curricular activities. Penn State University
is one of the largest universities in the country and
the town of State
College pretty much exists to serve this youthful mass, boasting
dozens of bars and eating establishment.
A climbing store, Appalachian Outdoors, is located on West College
Avenue near route 322 and can provide info, gear, idle chit chat etc.
In Bellefonte the Penn State Sub Shop near the quarry has decent
hoagies and hot weather treats. A more classy place to eat is the
Gamble Mill Inn right across the bridge on Lamb St.
Tussey Mountain Outfitters, 1/4 mi. south of the quarry on 150 may
supply gear, guidebooks and info.
For sleeping arrangements I suggest sacking out in the quarry.
If you seem squeamish about this idea due to the 10 ft. long,
throat-jumping
copperheads that only Rick Mix has seen, try the
Twin Oaks Campground, 355-9820, or KOA 355-7912. I don't know
where these are at but I'm sure they will tell you if you call
them. Don't hesitate to ask locals about such info - in fact,
Bellefonte locals are the friendliest locals in the world.
.pa
.pf
.rt top even /%/INDEX//
.rt top odd //INDEX/%/
.bf text
.in 2
.fo off
.cd 2 0 18
.bd
- aid -
The Bolt Route........24
Cold War........20

.bd
- 5.2 -
Baby Crack........44

.bd
- 5.3 -
Easy Ledges........74
.oo 1 **
Half Bolt........43
.oo 1 *
Outside In........40

.bd
- 5.4 -
Easy Zig-Zags........45
Horizontals........43
Last Chance For Glory........79
Chutes and Ladders........30

.bd
- 5.5 -
Gear! Gear!........57
Princess Leia........20
.oo 1 *
Vern........44

.bd
- 5.6 -
.oo 1 *
Climbing 101........42
.oo 1 **
Dink........43
Dismal World Left........38
Fresh Strawberries........78
Jawbone........45
Leopard's Tail........50
Old Sneakers........59
Outer Limits........56
Plant Graveyard........50
Rockview........59
.cb
.bd
- 5.7 -
.oo 1 *
B and T........40
.oo 1 **
Barney Rubble........28
Carpet Baggers........59
Dismal World Right........39
Easy Route........68
Hidden Left Crack........55
I Want My MTV........70
Leepin' Salamanders........58
.oo 1 *
Left Hand Eliminate........29
Left Ugly Corner........35
Roundabout........76
.oo 1 **
Toby-K........42
.oo 1 **
White Lightning........44

.bd
- 5.8 -
Easy Crack........65
Eat at Joe's........59
For Normal People........50
Hidden Right Crack........56
.oo 1 *
Jimnastics........78
.oo 1 *
Neck Strain........50
.oo 1 *
Pocket City........72
Right Ugly Corner........38
.oo 1 *
Right Nice Escape........38
Room For a Route........71
Rubber Doll........58
.oo 1 **
S.C. Crack........40
Surf City........67
.oo 1 *
Unfinished Opus........79
.oo 1 ***
Voices From The Deep........48
Where There's Rope........55
Young And Dumb........56
.cd 1
.pa
.in -2
.fo on
For some reason there are considerably more 5.9's than any other
Bellefonte grade.
.fo off
.in 2

.cd 2 0 18
.bd
- 5.9 -
.oo 1 **
Angel Heart........42
Banana Crack........20
.oo 1 *
Bitter End........22
Bloody End........22
Blind Faith........73
.oo 1 ***
Butterflies........77
.oo 1 **
Casual Stances........53
Chainsaw Madness........54
.oo 1 *
Civil Engineering........22
.oo 1 **
Clam Sandwich Roof.......68
.oo 1 **
Clamnastics.......69
Dancing Pixies........65
.oo 1 *
Despicable Stances........55
.oo 1 *
Desperation........45
.oo 1 ****
El Crackitan........24
Fester Heart Dreaming........28
.oo 1 *
Goddess........73
Gunks Moves........79
.oo 1 **
Handle With Care........38
.oo 1 *
Hard Water........46
.oo 1 **
Jekyll and Hyde........65
Left Herr Route........52
Left Side........64
.cb

.oo 1 ***
Mantle Town........72
.oo 1 *
Miami Mice........52
.oo 1 *
Mixed Up........51
New and Different........20
Nine Lives........71
Original Route........72
Pink Negroes........58
.oo 1 **
Rich Mixture........51
.oo 1 **
Right Herr Route........52
S.C. Under........41
Sex Toys........57
Sharks........41
.oo 1 **
Space Cadets........76
Steel Graffiti........34
Suzan's Delight........66
Suzy........28
.oo 1 ***
Take Heart........54
The Hole........70
The Last Dinosaur.......30
Trillium........46
.oo 1 **
Two Savages........76
Up All Night........40
.oo 1 ***
Wham, Bam, Clam........69
.cd 1

.in -2
.fo on
Many more routes will undoubtably
be put up after the publication
of this particular edition. Some of the projects on the burner include:
Overlord, up from the 2nd bolt on Heads and Tails, a route just
right of Manufractured which will be VERY hard, several possibilities
on the Power Windows wall, rebolting and redpointing the Horst routes,
Routes to the right of The Nothing Atolls, more stuff in the Death
Star Quarry, and lots of stuff in the new Empire quarry.
.fo off
.in 2
.pa
.cd 2 0 18
.bd
- 5.10a-
.oo 1 *
Bolt Polish........66
.oo 1 **
Clam Doorknob.......69
.oo 1 ***
Clam Groove........69
Miller is a Weenie........67
.oo 1 *
RP's Don't Work........67
.oo 1 ***
The Betsy........64
.oo 1 ***
Welcome to Bedrock........25

.bd
- 5.10b-
.oo 1 ****
Coleman is a Faggot........27
.oo 1 **
Feets........53
.oo 1 **
Fun Never Ends........36
If Seagulls Had Fires.......79
Nineish........46
No Exit........44
No LCF's........77
.oo 1 ***
Pep Talk........42

.bd
- 5.10c-
Dead Pigs in Space........17
.oo 1 *
Mystery Footholds........57
Survival Game........66
.oo 1 ***
Thin Pockets........68

.bd
- 5.10d-
.oo 1 ****
Bladerunner........37
.oo 1 *
Brown Angel Dust........42
.oo 1 *
Brown Cows........17
.oo 1 **
Hyperspace........17
.oo 1 **
No Stopping No Standing.......73
.oo 1 *
Poseidon Adventure........47
.oo 1 **
Peacock Nebulae........18
Wayne's Eng. Project........56
.cb
.bd
- 5.11a -
.oo 1 **
Ambience........71
Dance in Puppys Jaws........31
Fish Dreams........18
.oo 1 **
The Flake........33
.oo 1 *
Vertical Takeoff........78

.bd
- 5.11b -
.oo 1 *
Fingertips on Seascape........48
Joint Dislocator........27
Ladies' Way........46
Master The Monster........63
.oo 1 *
More Pudly than Studly........35
.oo 1 *
Runway 666........63
Trading Arms for Clams........68
.oo 1 ***
Vertical Paths........29
.oo 1 **
Welcome to Bellefonte.......36

.bd
- 5.11c -
Dash or Splash........48
.oo 1 **
Heads and Tails........23
.oo 1 ****
Hypoxia.......80
.oo 1 ***
Manufractured.......25
.oo 1 *
Pigs in a Pile.......18
.oo 1 ***
Realm of The Senseless.......34
Wet Dreams........47

.bd
- 5.11d -
.oo 1 **
A Pedestrian Affair.......39
.oo 1 ***
Dabbling in Life.......29
.oo 1 *
Dance on Cat Paws.......31
Dash or Crash.......26
.oo 1 ***
Jesus Leapt.......26
.oo 1 **
Micronesia........34
.pa
.bd
- 5.12a -
.oo 1 ***
Cruise Control........30
.oo 1 **
Darth Vader........19
.oo 1 **
Sanity's Day Off........35
.oo 1 ***
White Line Fever........24

.bd
- 5.12b -
.oo 1 **
A Lesson in Layback........20
.oo 1 **
Lovely But Lecherous.......26

.bd
- 5.12c -
.oo 1 *
Autumn Arch........33
Dragon's Jaw........31
.oo 1 ****
Sexy Love Slots.......39
.oo 1 **
The Right Window........32
Trickster........27

.bd
- 5.12d -
.oo 1 ***
Elf'n Magic........25
.oo 1 ***
Overlord........34
Power Windows........32
.oo 1 ***
The S.D.I. Crack........19

.bd
- 5.13a -
.oo 1 ***
La Petite Mort........19
.oo 1 ***
Little Love Machine........39
.oo 1 ***
The Nothing Atolls........34

.cd 1
.fo on
.in -2

.bd
HARDMAN HINTS -
Holds at Bellefonte tend to be extremely small (and I mean SMALL),
you have to look real hard just to find them.
After climbing hard routes at Bellefonte for an extended period of
time, you may discover that your callouses will be limited to just
the very tips of your fingers.
Since the holds are so small, it is vitally important
to concentrate on feet as much as possible and good
footwear is KEY to doing the harder routes.
Again I recommend bringing
some hot new edging shoes.
You will need to
be careful with fingers due to the miniscule nature of these holds.
If you crank like a disease on these tiny one finger edges (rarely
are they big enough for a "whole" finger tip)
and mantle
down with all your strength you are asking for tendonitis.
Most climbs seem to sport what we locals have coined the Standard
Bellefonte Mantle - where you have a tiny horizontal over you're
head and nothing else.
Be fluid and use feet and balance all the way through these instead of
trying to muscle up on things that shouldn't be muscled.
One secret to some of the climbs is to beware of large finger holds.
Once you get a relatively big hold your first inclination is to
forget feet, and these climbs are way too sustained and tricky to do
that - when in doubt, step on something.
.pa
.pf
.rt top even /%///
.rt top odd ///%/
.ce
.bi
FASHION SECTION
.bf text

At last, the really important section of the guide. This info will
clue you in to what's hot and what's not. What the "in" crowd is
wearing, swearing, climbing, and miming.
After years of close scrutiny, I've come to the conclusion that
Pennsylvania climbers tend to be the least fashion conscious,
most non-conformist,
old fashion fuddy duddies of the climbing community.
I myself am a prime example of this.
Let's face it, our attire is basically a fashion disaster.
Now there is nothing wrong with this, provided you are at Chickee's
rock or some other obscure Pa climbing area.
Bellefonte though is different - the scene, the atmosphere is more
advanced, sophisticated - we're like
a little part of France in Pennsylvania.
When you head up one of these big blank white walls you are spotlighted
and what you wear and do definitely adds to the outrageous visual
experience for onlookers.
Face it, we Pa climbers "need" a place like Bellefonte to
shake us out of our ethnocentric peculiarities.
What to wear? Well this is actually easy - just leaf through your
Climbing or Mountain magazine and check out what the French guys
and gals are donning and follow suit.
Lycra, tank-tops, cool shades,
Petzel harnesses, colorful quick draws, microlight biners
and Dolomite shoes are "in."
In fact anything French is "in" - even the name of the place means
beautiful fountain en Francais.
When in doubt, do something French. If you fall off a climb yell
"Merde" and cheer your partner through the crux with a rousing
"allez-allez-allez".
Try not to get caught on anything under 7a
(5.11c) and for heaven sakes
it's really gauche to climb anything where you actually have to
place pro. It's better to just leave that uncool stuff in the
bottom of your pack.
To complete the scene, you will also fit in if you
bring along a machete (to chop at least one offending plant),
a K-mart nylon bristle paint stripping brush, and some massive
powered hammer drill.
Oh yes, don't forget your Bellefonte Climber's Guide.
What's not in fashion? Fire Cats, Chounaird tattoos, assault
rifles, and people with large egos and misguided ethics.

.pa
.pf
.ce
.bi
APOLOGIES
.bf text

I hereby apologize to all the following people that this guide might
possibly offend.
Horticulturists and plant lovers for my vicious attacks on plants
(please visit the area before you condemn me),
all the climbers (particularly Mike Miller) whom I may have subtly
or blatantly abused in print,
non-climbers who receive psuedosexual gratification from making lots
of noise with their M-16 look alikes while
endangering the lives of innocent
bystanders (realizing their limited vocabulary I shouldn't have used
big words like "moron" in my wildlife section),
Chris Purnell
(if he's still alive that is) for calling him the
world's most dangerous person (he is),
people whose names and climbs may belong in this guide but for some
reason are not,
people who take climbing (and themselves) too seriously since there
isn't a serious paragraph in this entire book.
Major appologies to the African cat himself Eric Horst, as restraint
wore a little thin with this edition with considerable Horst-play and
Horsting-around the result.

.pf
.ce
.bi
THANKS
.bf text

Thanks to proofreaders,
Kathy Davinroy, Cindy Miller, Melissa Heydenreich,
Erik "Otto destruct" Wagg, Rick Mix,
Tammy Backenstose, Ben Shaevitz, and Kristy Mcgill.
Thanks to Dave Seasholtz for his (let's keep it quiet)
scarfing abilities.
Extra thanks to Kathy Davinroy for proofreading above and beyond the
call of duty.
Thanks to Eric Horst for his scathing criticisms
which spurred me to produce a better guide.
Much thanks to Grant Phillips for his time spent in the dark room and
his illustrations.
The reviews are actually by that master of sarcasm, Jamie Connolly
(please don't sue me, sue him, HE wrote them).
Special thanks to IBM and their wonderful 3090-400e processor
(at 15 Million it should be wonderful)
with which I created this thing.
More thanks to Grant Phillips who sewed up what the paper cutter
did to my finger (although he seemed to derive pleasure from it).

[Simon Leinen]

This looks very nice, but which Troff macro package and preprocessors
should we use to format it? (I don't know much about Troff, sorry)
--
Simon.

[jim bowers]

In article <SIMON.91J...@liasun1.epfl.ch>, si...@liasun2.epfl.ch (Simon

This was written in script, the IBM mainframe word processing
language. Let me know if there is anything I can do to make it more useable
for everyone.
Jim

[John F Stoffel]

>>>>> On 3 Jul 91 02:24:32 GMT, F...@psuvm.psu.edu (jim bowers) said:

jim> In article <SIMON.91J...@liasun1.epfl.ch>,
si...@liasun2.epfl.ch (Simon Leinen) says:

Simon> This looks very nice, but which Troff macro package and preprocessors
Simon> should we use to format it? (I don't know much about Troff, sorry)

jim> This was written in script, the IBM mainframe word processing
jim> language. Let me know if there is anything I can do to make it
jim> more useable for everyone.

How about LaTeX? Would be just as portable and much easier for me to
get a nice printout! Troff is NOT a well setup program at my site.
Sigh...

John

--
How do you explain Wayne Newton's POWER over millions? | john
It's th' MOUSTACHE... Have you ever noticed th' way it radiates | @wpi
SINCERITY, HONESTY & WARMTH? It's a MOUSTACHE you want to take | .wpi
HOME and introduce to NANCY SINATRA! | .edu

[Jim Roberts]

In article <JOHN.91J...@penny.WPI.EDU> jo...@penny.WPI.EDU (John F Stoffel) writes:
>How about LaTeX? Would be just as portable and much easier for me to
>get a nice printout! Troff is NOT a well setup program at my site.

I could edit into LaTeX, if jim bowers approves, and there are more
than, say, 5 requests.

> HOME and introduce to NANCY SINATRA!

Nancy not included.

--
Jim Roberts rob...@stsci.edu scivax::roberts

[Tom Coradeschi <tcora>]

In article <91183.2...@psuvm.psu.edu> F...@psuvm.psu.edu (jim bowers)
writes:

What I did was to process it using nroff and dump it into a text file, which
I then downloaded to my mac. I got a little garbage in the output file, but
not enough to give me any heartache (some odd escape-7 strings). Try saving
the article off to a file, call it 'file.name' and use:

nroff -ms file.name > text.file<cr>

I've got a Microsoft Word 4.0 version for anyone who'd like it (assuming Jim
doesn't mind...).
--

tom coradeschi <+> tc...@pica.army.mil

[jim bowers]

In article <28...@nemesis.stsci.edu>, rob...@stsci.EDU (Jim Roberts) says:
>
>In article <JOHN.91J...@penny.WPI.EDU> jo...@penny.WPI.EDU (John F )
>Stoffel

>writes:
>>How about LaTeX? Would be just as portable and much easier for me to
>>get a nice printout! Troff is NOT a well setup program at my site.
>
>I could edit into LaTeX, if jim bowers approves, and there are more
>than, say, 5 requests.
>

Feel free to edit as you wish and distribute - as long as someone
doesn't start selling this anything is fine with me.

The new 4th edition will be out in fall (with pictures) and if anyone
wants a real copy then (I'll let folks know when it is done) I can
mail copies for a modest sum.
Jim Bowers

[Eugene N. Miya]

In article <JOHN.91J...@penny.WPI.EDU> jo...@penny.WPI.EDU

(John F Stoffel) writes:
>>>>>> On 3 Jul 91 02:24:32 GMT, F...@psuvm.psu.edu (jim bowers) said:
>
>jim> This was written in script, the IBM mainframe word processing
>jim> language.
>

>How about LaTeX? Would be just as portable and much easier for me to
>get a nice printout! Troff is NOT a well setup program at my site.

Script?!
Oh, my god!
LaTex and troff (all): document processing as assembly language....

Oh, Xerox should have made the Alto a product in 1978....

Anyways, back to CLIMBING as the topic. And the judicious use of
'n' and 'K' keys.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eug...@orville.nas.nasa.gov
Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
{uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene