Paint for climbing wall?
Gregory A Kriss
Could someone tell me which type of paint I should use for a climbing
wall. I want the "sand finish" texture with durability.
Is there a special paint that already had the texture in it or do you
buy a special paint and add something like the ceiling "sand texture"
that you can get at the local Home Depot?
thanks, if you post please also e-mail me...
Greg
Gleshna
>Could someone tell me which type of paint I should use for a climbing
>wall. I want the "sand finish" texture with durability.
>
>Is there a special paint that already had the texture in it or do you
>buy a special paint and add something like the ceiling "sand texture"
>that you can get at the local Home Depot?
>
The textured stuff from climbing suppliers can get expensive. I have had
nice results with latex and sand.
Luck,
Bob
Scott Linn
John Byrnes (byr...@fc.hp.com) wrote:
: Painting a climbing wall is a waste of paint.
Not if by painting it to look nice, your SO lets you put one in!
Scott
WayneB4737
Unless you're building a wall to learn friction climbing, I don't
recommend the sand in the paint route - it'll tend to sand flesh. Lot's of
scraped knuckles, knees, etc.when you come off your holds. You'll only be
on climbing the flat parts of the wall if you're REALLY good (or an
insect), otherwise your hands and feet will be using those expensive
holds you're gonna bolt on. Watch for sharp edges as well - round them
off. Plain old plywood does fine, and you can screw on small scraps for
cheap but effective holds.
Wayne Busch
Gainesville, Florida
Wayne...@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/wayneb4737 -- Flatliners Website
-- a resource for climbing in the southeast --
Tony Bubb
Not if you go buy industrial "no skid" stuff (used for forklift
traction) to put in factory floor paint, then paint it on.
Pretty similar to sandstone, really. And yes, I have done this
to 2 walls.
-T.
John Byrnes
Gregory A Kriss (kr...@nso1.uchc.edu) wrote:
> Could someone tell me which type of paint I should use for a climbing
> wall. I want the "sand finish" texture with durability.
Painting a climbing wall is a waste of paint.
- Lord Slime
H.J. (Jim) Leininger
Gleshna wrote:
>
> >Could someone tell me which type of paint I should use for a climbing
> >wall. I want the "sand finish" texture with durability.
> >
> >buy a special paint and add something like the ceiling "sand texture"
> >that you can get at the local Home Depot?
> >
>
> The textured stuff from climbing suppliers can get expensive. I have had
> nice results with latex and sand.
>
> Luck,
>
> Bob
good-quality exterior paint with sand mixed in. It works great and I got
the paint for $3 - someone had it mixed up and then didn't like the
color, I guess. Textured paint from suppliers runs $35 per gallon and
up...
Dave Hughes
Gleshna wrote:
> The textured stuff from climbing suppliers can get expensive. I have had
> nice results with latex and sand.
You really have to take this in context don't you?? ;)
Dave
--
David Hughes
Email: da...@es.su.oz.au
"Against boredom even the gods themselves
struggle in vain" - Nietzsche
Marc Thornton
Gregory A Kriss wrote:
>
> Could someone tell me which type of paint I should use for a climbing
> wall. I want the "sand finish" texture with durability.
>
> Is there a special paint that already had the texture in it or do you
> buy a special paint and add something like the ceiling "sand texture"
> that you can get at the local Home Depot?
>
There is a special paint which a few of the big companies that make
walls sell. If you look at http://www.nicros.com you will see that they
sell a texture. It comes in 1 and 5 gallon jugs.
marc.
John Byrnes
Tony Bubb (bu...@qntm.nospam.com) wrote:
> Scott Linn wrote:
> > John Byrnes (byr...@fc.hp.com) wrote:
> > : Painting a climbing wall is a waste of paint.
> > Not if by painting it to look nice, your SO lets you put one in!
Double entendre?
> Not if you go buy industrial "no skid" stuff (used for forklift
> traction) to put in factory floor paint, then paint it on.
High-friction paint on a climbing wall wears out the toes of
your shoes incredibly fast. Especially on overhanging walls
where you're doing a lot of drop-knee moves.
Irregularities (texture) on the surface causes the holds to
rotate more easily, often resulting in broken holds and useless
T-nuts when you over-tighten them.
Ever slip off a hold on an indoor wall? If the paint has texture
this often results in leaving huge amounts of knuckle-skin.
One of the local gyms paid a lot of money to have their wall
painted/texturized. After using it for a year, everyone's
conclusion was: 1) It looked nice for non-climbers who came in
to gawk, and 2) It was a waste of money in terms of functionality.
- Lord Slime
rachel
John Byrnes wrote:
>
> Gregory A Kriss (kr...@nso1.uchc.edu) wrote:
> > Could someone tell me which type of paint I should use for a climbing
> > wall. I want the "sand finish" texture with durability.
>
>
Wow, this is a first. I agree with you.
Rachel
MTWFlip
I disagree with Wayne.... texturize you walls up to about 20 to 25 degrees
overhanging, then after that it is a waste. You don't necessarily have to
put on an extremely rough texture. I climb on texturized walls 2 or 3
days a week and I rarely scratch myself.
MTWFlip
I don't know what Lord Slime is talking about:>High-friction paint on a
climbing wall wears out the toes of
>your shoes incredibly fast. Especially on overhanging walls
>where you're doing a lot of drop-knee moves.
>
>Irregularities (texture) on the surface causes the holds to
>rotate more easily, often resulting in broken holds and useless
>T-nuts when you over-tighten them.
>
>Ever slip off a hold on an indoor wall? If the paint has texture
>this often results in leaving huge amounts of knuckle-skin.
>
>One of the local gyms paid a lot of money to have their wall
>painted/texturized. After using it for a year, everyone's
>conclusion was: 1) It looked nice for non-climbers who came in
>to gawk, and 2) It was a waste of money in terms of functionality.
>
>- Lord Slime
>
spinning becuase it provides friction and minor irregularities for the
holds to pin against. He is way off on that. Secondly, texture doesn't
cause a significant reduction in toe rubber for most climbers. With
beginners, there is increased rubber wear since they are scraping their
feet all over the wall, but with better climbers who use calculated,
controlled footwork there is very, very little additional rubber wear.
Besides, the more realistic enjoyment of a textured wall is worth any
small amount of extra wear there may be anyway.
Chris Weaver
MTWFlip <mtw...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970725152...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Texture actually helps the holds remain in place and keeps them from
> spinning becuase it provides friction and minor irregularities for the
> holds to pin against. He is way off on that
Actually, he's not way off. But then, neither are you. If you're talking
about a simple sand/paint mix or similar, then yes, it will help keep the
holds from spinning. If you're talking about *lots* of texture, like they
have at some gyms (Sportrock II in Virginia, for example) then he is
actually correct. That particular gym was a virtual funhouse ride with all
of the spinning holds that it had when they first put that texture on
there. The reason being that if the wall the hold sits against is not
relatively flat, the hold will have much less friction to stop the eventual
spin. It is also easy to break holds when the hold does not sit on the wall
on all sides. If you do decide to use this sort of texture, sand it flat
around all of your T-nut holes.
Chris Weaver
John Davis
John Byrnes (byr...@fc.hp.com) wrote:
> One of the local gyms paid a lot of money to have their wall
> painted/texturized. After using it for a year, everyone's
> conclusion was: 1) It looked nice for non-climbers who came in
> to gawk, and 2) It was a waste of money in terms of functionality.
our local gym went a similar way, except being cheap sods they went for the
'mix in sand with normal paint' approach. This looked nice to start with,
but yielded a surface akin to 100 grade sandpaper (hard on boots, skin etc),
and of course most of the sand started dropping off. This meant that for
quite a while you had so try and blow a coating of sand off any hold, real
fun (well I guess it makes it more like real climbing, maybe they should
have gone and deposited the odd lump of bird shit as well). After a couple
of years it's finally worn down to the stage where it's not totally
irritating, but of course it now looks tatty as their nice sandstone-yellow
paint now has gruesome black/grey marks in the areas around all the t-nuts.
So colour me firmly in the 'leave the walls bare and sod the spectators'
camps, better to spend the money on more holds
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|o John Davis email:j.d...@chem.canterbury.ac.nz phone:+64-3-3642-421 o|
|o (Depart)mental Programmer,Chemistry Department o|
|o University of Canterbury,Christchurch, New Zealand o|
steve clark
On 23 Jul 1997 13:12:44 GMT, gle...@aol.com (Gleshna) wrote:
[stuff]
...snip....
anything, as long as you fleck "off brown" paint on the walls to
disguise the bloody knee traces. got to luv climbing on that plastic.
-S
John Byrnes
MTWFlip (mtw...@aol.com) wrote:
> >
> Texture actually helps the holds remain in place and keeps them from
> spinning becuase it provides friction and minor irregularities for the
Your pet theory? Experience proves otherwise.
> Secondly, texture doesn't
> cause a significant reduction in toe rubber for most climbers. With
> beginners, there is increased rubber wear since they are scraping their
> feet all over the wall, but with better climbers who use calculated,
> controlled footwork there is very, very little additional rubber wear.
No kidding? So that grinding that I feel at the toe everytime I
pivot into a drop-knee on a small hold is just my imagination?
> Besides, the more realistic enjoyment of a textured wall is worth any
> small amount of extra wear there may be anyway.
Gym climbing is *training* for most experienced climbers. Realism
is for newbies who probably never get on real rock anyway.
Oh, and BTW... What good does the texture do you on an overhanging
wall?
- Lord Slime
Jeff Elison
MTWFlip (mtw...@aol.com) wrote:
: Texture actually helps the holds remain in place and keeps them from
: spinning becuase it provides friction and minor irregularities for the
: holds to pin against. He is way off on that.
No he isn't. Those irregularities break under use and the once tight
hold becomes loose. It takes a long time for this problem to go away
or you have to use very expensive texture. On a home wall, it just
isn't worth it!
: Secondly, texture doesn't
: cause a significant reduction in toe rubber for most climbers. With
: beginners, there is increased rubber wear since they are scraping their
: feet all over the wall, but with better climbers who use calculated,
: controlled footwork there is very, very little additional rubber wear.
Well I've never claimed to be a "better climber", but when I turn on a
foothold, it rubs on the wall. And even "better climbers" try problems
at their limit where they will be throwing for holds and dragging toes.
: Besides, the more realistic enjoyment of a textured wall is worth any
: small amount of extra wear there may be anyway.
Does that include the extra wear on knuckles and finger tips?
Don't bother with the texture. Spend the money and time on building a
better wall or buying more holds!
Mort
Tony Bubb
Jeff Elison wrote:
>
> MTWFlip (mtw...@aol.com) wrote:
>
> : Texture actually helps the holds remain in place and keeps them from
> : spinning becuase it provides friction and minor irregularities for the
> : holds to pin against. He is way off on that.
>
> No he isn't. Those irregularities break under use and the once tight
> hold becomes loose. It takes a long time for this problem to go away
> or you have to use very expensive texture. On a home wall, it just
> isn't worth it!
put a small amount of sheet-rubber behind each hold. Cheap at any
store. Neopreme if nothing else. Works for wood or texture.
-T.
John Byrnes
Tony Bubb (bu...@qntm.nospam.com) wrote:
> > No he isn't. Those irregularities break under use and the once tight
> > hold becomes loose. It takes a long time for this problem to go away
> > or you have to use very expensive texture. On a home wall, it just
> > isn't worth it!
> put a small amount of sheet-rubber behind each hold. Cheap at any
> store. Neopreme if nothing else. Works for wood or texture.
Besides being a hell of a lot of work, this is treating
the symptom and not the disease.
- Lord Slime
John Byrnes
Tony Bubb (bu...@qntm.nospam.com) wrote:
> > Those irregularities break under use and the once tight
> > hold becomes loose. It takes a long time for this problem to go away
> > or you have to use very expensive texture.
> put a small amount of sheet-rubber behind each hold. Cheap at any
> store. Neopreme if nothing else. Works for wood or texture.
Hey Tony, I checked with Mort. Our private gym has 1200 holds.
You are welcome to stop by, remove each one, put some rubber behind
it and put it back on.
I figure it can't take you more than a week if you don't stop for
lunch.
- Lord Slime
P.S. I'd guess that 90% of the population would say that Maroon
is a shade of red.
VrticlVice
Lord Slime wrote:
>Hey Tony, I checked with Mort. Our private gym has 1200 holds.
>You are welcome to stop by, remove each one, put some rubber behind
>it and put it back on.
>I figure it can't take you more than a week if you don't stop for
>lunch.
Yeah, but, the real question is: are you providing the beer?
John Henley
Buffalo, MN
John Byrnes
Chris Weaver (cwe...@erols.com) wrote:
> Actually, he's not way off. But then, neither are you. If you're talking
> about a simple sand/paint mix or similar, then yes, it will help keep the
> holds from spinning.
No it doesn't.
> If you do decide to use this sort of texture, sand it flat
> around all of your T-nut holes.
Shit howdy! You guys are talking WORK! Just like Bubb's comment
about putting rubber behind every hold. You guys wanna climb or
spend all your free time f*cking with the wall?
Sand around the T-nuts? Even with a power sander this would be
tens of hours of work. Do you have ANY idea how many T-nuts are
in even a small wall? As I mentioned, our small gym has 1200 holds.
There are probably four times that many T-nuts (more?).
In conclusion: 1) Paint is slippery, and is for gawkers, not climbers.
2) Texture is a negative quality on a home wall.
(Commercial walls are different.)
- Lord Slime
Stephan514
Don't get the stuff Metolius has on the market. I put it on part of my
cave and it sucks
Paul Kowatch
byr...@fc.hp.com (John Byrnes) wrote:
>Chris Weaver (cwe...@erols.com) wrote:
>No it doesn't.
>- Lord Slime
I don't know if any of you have your own walls but on mine and three
others that I have talked to paint does help prevent the holds from
spinning.
None of us have used texture paint, I just used coloured primer. My
wall was bare first but after 3 months I painted it to prevent holds
spinning.
Paul K
Tony Bubb
John Byrnes wrote:
> Shit howdy! You guys are talking WORK! Just like Bubb's comment
> about putting rubber behind every hold. You guys wanna climb or
> spend all your free time f*cking with the wall?
$5/hour labor is not uncommon. Was teh question not about someone's
home wall? It takes about 2-3 minutes per hold, * 1200 holds for
your wall? Well, that's an on going process best for large holds,
which tend to be the spinners in my exp, eccentric jugs mainly.
It's time consuming yes...
1200 holds, * 3 mins per hold = 3600 minutes total, 60 hours of work.
If you just do it when setting routes anyway, I think you'd find that
it's not significant over time.
> In conclusion: 1) Paint is slippery, and is for gawkers, not climbers.
I agree in some part.
> 2) Texture is a negative quality on a home wall.
> (Commercial walls are different.)
Slab areas not so. Almost everyone at Purdue liked the texture,
added after 2 years without. No, they were not all gumbys.
-T.
L. Parker
On 1 Aug 1997 15:50:51 GMT, byr...@fc.hp.com (John Byrnes) wrote:
>Chris Weaver (cwe...@erols.com) wrote:
>
>
>> Actually, he's not way off. But then, neither are you. If you're talking
>> about a simple sand/paint mix or similar, then yes, it will help keep the
>> holds from spinning.
>
>No it doesn't.
Sand/paint mixtures don't stop holds from spinning, friction created
by a hold torqued to the proper specification does. Sand in the paint
only CREATES a potential slippage and actually decreases the total
friction provided.
>
>
>> If you do decide to use this sort of texture, sand it flat
>> around all of your T-nut holes.
Don't paint it in the first place....
>
>Shit howdy! You guys are talking WORK! Just like Bubb's comment
>about putting rubber behind every hold. You guys wanna climb or
>spend all your free time f*cking with the wall?
>
>Sand around the T-nuts? Even with a power sander this would be
>tens of hours of work. Do you have ANY idea how many T-nuts are
>in even a small wall? As I mentioned, our small gym has 1200 holds.
>There are probably four times that many T-nuts (more?).
>
>In conclusion: 1) Paint is slippery, and is for gawkers, not climbers.
> 2) Texture is a negative quality on a home wall.
> (Commercial walls are different.)
If all else fails, try epoxy. It will compensate (somewhat) for the
texture of the wall and if it comes off, it will at least take a hunk
of wall with it.
>
>- Lord Slime
Lee Parker
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