Be aware that the crux move is on shaky pro (TCUs in a flared seam).
Better choices for long trad routes:
Eldorado:
Bastille Crack - 5.7
Ruper - 5.8
Touch 'n Go to Anthill Direct - 5.9
Yellow Spur - 5.9 or 5.10a
Green Spur to Rewritten - 5.9
Icarus - 5.6
Lumpy Ridge:
Mainliner - 5.9
Pear Buttress - 5.8+
Loose Ends - 5.9+
Kor's Flake - 5.7+
J Crack - 5.9 or 5.10a
Flatirons:
East Face of First Flatiron - 5.6
East Face of Third Flatiron - 5.4
North Face of Maiden - 5.6
--
Ron Olsen
rono...@lucent.com
Boulder Colorado
"The Martyr" 5.9, 3 pitches. In Aiguilles de St Peter in foothills above Colorado
Springs. Not in guide books. 2nd pitch is crux but finish of 3rd pitch is on a very
exposed and exciting but not difficult roof. 1/2 hour drive. True classic!
"Lost in Space" 5.9-, 3-4 pitches. At Sheep's Nose. 1 hour drive.
Several classic multi-pitch climbs at Garden of Gods. (Sandstone)
"New Era" 5.7 (excellent)
"Place in the Sun 5.8
and many others
Larry in Colorado Springs
> I'm leaving tommorow morning for an two week Colorado Mtn bike and CLimb
> trip.
> I was wondering if you folks had some suggestions for some long, fun
> trad routes. Not too worried about diffuculty, something 5.9 or less
> probably (I can climb hard short stuff anytime in Texas)
> We will be staying with friends in Colosprings, Denver and Boulder, so
> places within a two hour drive from there are a plus (not neccesary)
The Maiden, a pinnacle near the Flatirons, is a 5.7 but has a wild, 115
foot free rappel. Just did it last week. Highly recommended!
In Lumpy check out:
- Mainliner 5.9 on the Sundance Buttress. It is, in my opinion the best 5.9 in
Colorado.
- J crack 5.10a on the Book. The most popular climb in Lumpy.
In Eldo check out:
- The Yellow Spur 5.9-5.10b, The Green Spur 5.9, Ruper 5.8, Touch and Go to
Anthill Direct 5.9s, Rosy Crucifixion 5.10 on the Redgarden wall.
- The Long John Wall 5.8, Hand Cracker Direct 5.10a at the West Ridge.
- Over the Hill 5.10b at the Rincon Wall.
- Works up 5.9+, West Buttress 5.9-5.10b at the Bastille.
All of these climbs will be somewhat crouded outside of the West Ridge and Rincon
Wall climbs in Eldo. Don't be afraid of pushing the letter grades up when in
Eldo. The cruxes are relatively short and there are always rests.
Have fun,
Patrick