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racking tri cams

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Justin Driemeyer

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Oct 30, 2001, 5:25:39 AM10/30/01
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What way do most people find works best for racking tri-cams? Nuts I keep
together on one biner, same with hexes. Cams each get their own biner. I'm
somewhat befuddled about how to best rack my tricams though. Thanks!

Justin D.


Tyto

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Oct 30, 2001, 8:21:30 AM10/30/01
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I have 6 tri cams and put 3 on a biner.

David Kreindler

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Oct 30, 2001, 8:25:45 AM10/30/01
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This is something of a personal issue; hence religious arguments might
ensue.

My racking philosophy is to put things that might not need a runner,
because they already have longish slings, on individual 'biners.
Everything else gets racked in clumps.

The only gear of mine that falls into the former category is
Rockcentrics and Rocks on Dyneema. (If I used cams with extendable
slings, like the DMM, those would fall into that category too.) Wired
nuts always need a runner, and most cams usually do, so they fall into
the clump-racking category. Specifically: I rack a double set of 1-6
Rocks on one 'biner and a set of 6-10 on another; cams get racked in
threes or twos, depending on their size. Of course, if I had a 5 or 6
Friend, it would get its own 'biner simply because it its size.

Tricams also almost always need a runner, so they fall into the
clump-racking category. I usually carry two pink and two red Tricams on
one 'biner and, if I bring them (i.e. in the 'Gunks), brown and blue
Tricams on another 'biner. I do not have any larger Tricams.

---------------------------------------------------------------
David Kreindler <ddd.hat...@well.com>
remove '.hates.spam' to reply

Stephen Prouty

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Oct 30, 2001, 8:27:03 AM10/30/01
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In article <aevD7.1143$Wa1....@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, drie...@uiuc.edu
says...
> What way do most people find works best for racking tri-cams...

Rack the pink one on its own biner, rack all the rest together on a single
biner. Now clip the pink one to your gear sling and deposit the others in
the same place as all the other gear you bought but really never use. I
don't know, but it seems the more I climb the less I want to carry.

sprouty

Julie

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Oct 30, 2001, 10:16:29 AM10/30/01
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Justin Driemeyer wrote:

> What way do most people find works best for racking tri-cams?

Pink, red, brown, purple, all on one 'biner.

JSH

Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 30, 2001, 10:32:36 AM10/30/01
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Justin Driemeyer wrote:

I rack them on an old broken biner with a cracked gate pin. Seriously, I really
do.

They hang from the "curious, old pieces of crap" hook along side of a homemade
friend, some rusty pins and a few trashed cams.

Tricams have never found a useful or welcome home on my rack. I mostly encounter
them as fixed pieces on heavily traveled trade routes (like Jam Crack). I remove
them and use them like Christmas tree ornaments in my garage.

Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?

DMT

David Kreindler

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Oct 30, 2001, 11:32:18 AM10/30/01
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Dingus Milktoast wrote:
>
> Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?

Tricams are great in horizontal cracks, as in the 'Gunks, which would
crimp the stems of my cams if I fell on 'em.

Sometimes I use them like hexes, i.e. instead of cams, if I am
travelling light.

nathan sweet

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Oct 30, 2001, 11:39:19 AM10/30/01
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>Justin Driemeyer wrote:
>
>> What way do most people find works best for racking tri-cams?

I dunno about most, but I keep 2 reds and 3 pinkies together on 1 biner.

If I carry "The Boat Anchor" (#7) I clip the sling to one of the crossbeams
and hang it POINT OUT on the back of my harness. Better yet just leave it in
your partners pack.

>> Dingus Milktoast wrote:
>>
>>I rack them on an old broken biner with a cracked gate pin. Seriously, I really
>>do.

Thats where the larger sizes go...along with the CamLocks and Sliders and
various other "I might need these sometime" peices. I keep those in a
storage crate in my truck so I can wish for them from mid-pitch.

>> What do you use those boogers for anyway?

I use them instead of those archaic nuts. IE: When I have run out of
finger-sized booty cams.

nathan (who's only lead fall [so far] this year was on a pinky) sweet

Julie

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Oct 30, 2001, 11:46:12 AM10/30/01
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Dingus Milktoast wrote:

> Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?

Toruturing big-handed people who hate them.

JSH

Justin Driemeyer

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Oct 30, 2001, 12:14:44 PM10/30/01
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Well, the places I mostly climb are sandstone and are riddled with pockets,
and I've never seen another piece of gear which protects pockets like a
tricam. Besides, wether or not a piece gets used depends on what placements
your looking for. This past weekend I was climbing and had someone say
they'd never seen anyone place the 4.5 camalot before, and on the 5 pitches
of trad I did, it was used to protect on 3 of them and halped build an
anchor at the top or another.

Justin D.

"Dingus Milktoast" <crha...@midtown.net> wrote in message
news:3BDEC814...@midtown.net...

bbense+rec.cli...@telemark.stanford.edu

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Oct 30, 2001, 12:23:59 PM10/30/01
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In article <3BDEC814...@midtown.net>,

- - What do you use instead? (i.e. small light finger to hand sized
crack protection... ) I kind of like them, but I climb easy
stuff and I'm still dumb enough to carry a few camlocks.

- - Booker C. Bense

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Mad Dog

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Oct 30, 2001, 12:11:46 PM10/30/01
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Julie says...

>Pink, red, brown, purple, all on one 'biner.

I think it would have made more sense if the 3rd smallest one was purple.

Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 30, 2001, 12:39:22 PM10/30/01
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Justin Driemeyer wrote:

> Besides, wether or not a piece gets used depends on what placements
> your looking for.

Ya reckon?

You mean, like, when I'm leading and decide to place ALL of the large cams first
(so my 2nd carries them instead of me!)?

I'm sure tricams are all about what you said, and more. I mostly climb granite.
The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs their
functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.

> This past weekend I was climbing and had someone say
> they'd never seen anyone place the 4.5 camalot before, and on the 5 pitches
> of trad I did, it was used to protect on 3 of them and halped build an
> anchor at the top or another.

Well dude, if you had carried a 4.5 camelot up each of those climbs without
placing it, I'd say a head examination was way over due!

If you build it they will come?

DMT

themadco

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Oct 30, 2001, 12:47:07 PM10/30/01
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Keep a couple of the smaller ones around on a biner for doing walls. Unless
you are are heading to sandstone then bring them all. Keep the #7 out on
your way through Fresno.
Ron

"Dingus Milktoast" <crha...@midtown.net> wrote in message
news:3BDEC814...@midtown.net...

AdeBK

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Oct 30, 2001, 12:58:26 PM10/30/01
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Re: the contoversial tricam:

>Dingus Milktoast wrote:
>
>> Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?

Julie explained:


>Toruturing big-handed people who hate them.
>
>JSH

Me? I like to fix them sos I got something to clip next time I lead that
particular pitch. See? Carry them once, never have to carry them again.
They'll always be right where you left them, ready to serve over and over as
needed. Love them. (The proceeding also applies to #4 Wallnuts).

Anne in NYC racks the tricams like so...whichever ones are left (pink, red,
brown) get a home all on one 'biner.

Julie

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Oct 30, 2001, 1:17:16 PM10/30/01
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Dingus Milktoast wrote:

> Justin Driemeyer wrote:
>>Besides, wether or not a piece gets used depends on what placements
>>your looking for.
>

> You mean, like, when I'm leading and decide to place ALL of the large cams first
> (so my 2nd carries them instead of me!)?

A-ha: I just realized reason number 34.3:

To build an beautiful anchor with them, leaving my partner strangely
undecided between being happy I've left her all the cams for the next
pitch, and scared-to-death of a belay made of 'those things.'

JSH

Choss35

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Oct 30, 2001, 1:44:46 PM10/30/01
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Is this a real thread? I hope its not. i cant believe there were actually 15
responses to "what is the best way to rack tri-cams"

nathan sweet

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Oct 30, 2001, 2:02:26 PM10/30/01
to
> cho...@aol.com wrote:
>
>Is this a real thread? I hope its not. i cant believe there were actually 15
>responses to "what is the best way to rack tri-cams"

Ask a question about Tiblocs.

nathan (I dare ya) sweet


Mike Garrison

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Oct 30, 2001, 2:00:21 PM10/30/01
to

I keep them on individual biners, just like my SLCDs. In
fact, for the limited amount of lead climbing I do I often
take my tricams along instead of SLCDs, and use them where I
otherwise would be slotting an SLCD. I think of them more
like SLCDs than nuts.

-Mike

Mad Dog

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Oct 30, 2001, 2:27:41 PM10/30/01
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nathan says...

>Ask a question about Tiblocs.

OK, did you see the article in Climbing about using a Tibloc on a piece when
simuclimbing? Has this been hashed out here in the last 2 weeks? Can this be a
safe procedure? Won't the rope get chopped? Does Petzl condone this rig? Can
I have another beer please?

nathan sweet

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Oct 30, 2001, 3:17:36 PM10/30/01
to
> Mad Dog wrote:
>
>nathan says...
>
>>Ask a question about Tiblocs.
>
>OK, did you see the article in Climbing about using a Tibloc on a piece when
>simuclimbing? Has this been hashed out here in the last 2 weeks? Can this be a
>safe procedure?

If used in conjuction with a modified Reverso, yes, but Petzl denies this
claim.

> Can I have another beer please?

No you may not. You are back from vacation and need to suffer with the rest
of us.

Nice TR BTW...

nathan sweet

PS: Do they still allow Tricam use in Michigan? I hear the Gunks has
condemned them as "Fixed Protection"....

Mad Dog

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Oct 30, 2001, 4:23:27 PM10/30/01
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nathan says...

>PS: Do they still allow Tricam use in Michigan?

Only in the upper peninsula. Climbing is not allowed in the lower, following
the Access Fund's bailout, due to an extreme lack of rock.

j...@ti.com

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Oct 30, 2001, 5:00:27 PM10/30/01
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Why would Tricams not be allowed? The way I read the question, other pro would
allowed.

Seems strange that some one 'authority' would preclude one type of pro and not
another (aside from destructive pro).

JNH

Andy Gale

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Oct 30, 2001, 5:55:19 PM10/30/01
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j...@ti.com wrote:

> Why would Tricams not be allowed? The way I read the question, other pro would
> allowed.


>
> Seems strange that some one 'authority' would preclude one type of pro and not
> another (aside from destructive pro).


Why would one man have no sense of humor while another does? It seems
strange that such an obvious joke could be taken seriously.

Andy

nathan sweet

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Oct 30, 2001, 6:13:14 PM10/30/01
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>j...@ti.com wrote:
>
>Why would Tricams not be allowed? The way I read the question, other pro would
>allowed.

The little points have been proven to erode the rock with repeated
placements. There is a famous climb in the Gunks (Pink Baby?) that was
downgraded from a .9+ to an .8 because of this. Used to be a real woman's
climb, but now any sausage-fingered ape can get perfect finger locks.

>Seems strange that some one 'authority' would preclude one type of pro and not
>another (aside from destructive pro).

Strange? That's the type of attitude that got the entire state of
Connecticut closed to climbing. We all need to respect the land
owners/managers, no matter how subjective and ridiculous their rules become,
or we will be waiting in line someplace else next season.

nathan sweet

Michael Creel

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Oct 31, 2001, 4:12:02 AM10/31/01
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Dingus Milktoast wrote:

>
> I'm sure tricams are all about what you said, and more. I mostly climb
> granite. The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs
> their functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.

> DMT

I can testify that tricams work great in CA granite. They weigh a lot less
than SLCD's too. Used them all the time at the Leap. I used to rack them
all on a single biner: 1 pinks, and 1 ea. of the next three. Think of them
as a more modern Titon, Dingus. YMMV, IMHO, etc, etc.

Michael Creel

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Oct 31, 2001, 4:18:33 AM10/31/01
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Julie wrote:

Pretty close. Actually, it's pink, pink, red, brown, purple, all on one
'biner.

Stephen Prouty

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Oct 31, 2001, 7:22:36 AM10/31/01
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In article <9rmn0...@drn.newsguy.com>, mad6...@msn.com says...

> >Julie says...
> >Pink, red, brown, purple, all on one 'biner.

>
> I think it would have made more sense if the 3rd smallest one was purple.
>

Color theory was definitely not a consideration when they slung
(slinged?) these things: the next three colors are Blue, Black, and then
hey, it's Blue again.

sprouty

j...@ti.com

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Oct 31, 2001, 9:55:58 AM10/31/01
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In this world - who knows what nut will do what - or for that matter what nut will
fit in what crack until ya try it.

JNH

Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 31, 2001, 10:51:25 AM10/31/01
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Michael Creel wrote:

Titons sucked.

I owned tricams. Back as far as 1986. Modified them by inserting coat hanger
wire into the sling to make them stiff for placing them like wire nuts. Added
tape to the back of the nut head to keep them from flopping around when
placing them that way. Used them extensively on southern sandstone.

I don't use them anymore. Don't care for them. Sorry I've offended all you
Lowe fans. Really, I'm sorry I said your favorite protections sucks. You go
right ahead screwing with your fickle gadgets. Enjoy and all that.

DMT


Shilajit T Gangulee

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Oct 31, 2001, 10:59:23 AM10/31/01
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Dingus Milktoast (crha...@midtown.net) wrote:

: I don't use them anymore. Don't care for them. Sorry I've offended all you


: Lowe fans. Really, I'm sorry I said your favorite protections sucks. You go
: right ahead screwing with your fickle gadgets. Enjoy and all that.

I'm really glad someone else doesn't like tri-cams. It's hard
to climb in the gunks without them. people look at you like you've
got three heads if you don't have at least two .5's.

Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 31, 2001, 11:17:09 AM10/31/01
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Shilajit T Gangulee wrote:

If I climbed at the Gunks I'd likely use them. Same too if I'm ever allowed back
in my home state.

DMT


Wendy Joseph

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Oct 31, 2001, 11:17:09 AM10/31/01
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s...@mail1.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) writes:

>I'm really glad someone else doesn't like tri-cams.

Trust me we are the (usually) silent majority. Their
proponents are just very defensive. ;-)

Wendy

Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."


Shilajit T Gangulee

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Oct 31, 2001, 11:18:33 AM10/31/01
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Dingus Milktoast (crha...@midtown.net) wrote:

: If I climbed at the Gunks I'd likely use them. Same too if I'm ever allowed back
: in my home state.

where do they work well in TN? i didn't find much use for them in
obed or at t-wall.

Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 31, 2001, 11:29:54 AM10/31/01
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Shilajit T Gangulee wrote:

It's useful to remember that micro 3-cam units didn't always exist...

When I was first introduced to the harder sandstone grades, small horizontal crack
protection (of which we were aware) included pitons, slider nuts and tricams. Of the
3, tricams were the least evil. Sliders worked pretty good, until you fell on one of
those brass bastards. Pins worked pretty good too, but generated a lot of upside down
smiley faces.

The advent of flexible microcams greatly reduced the need to depend on tricams, at
least with the climbing that I do.

Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?" Or how about the old
international conspiracy... "The TriCam Commission?"

DMT


Shilajit T Gangulee

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Oct 31, 2001, 11:31:04 AM10/31/01
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Dingus Milktoast (crha...@midtown.net) wrote:

: It's useful to remember that micro 3-cam units didn't always exist...

: The advent of flexible microcams greatly reduced the need to depend on tricams, at


: least with the climbing that I do.

Damn straight. I can't even imagine climbing B.A. (before aliens).

: Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?" Or how about the old


: international conspiracy... "The TriCam Commission?"

They've totally got a chant. "Double up on pink, double up on pink"

Troutboy

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Oct 31, 2001, 12:06:49 PM10/31/01
to
>
> Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?" Or how
about the old
> international conspiracy... "The TriCam Commission?"
>
> DMT

Admit it Dingus, you're just jealous because we haven't shown you the secret
handshake :-)

T


Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 31, 2001, 12:16:01 PM10/31/01
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Troutboy wrote:

I just wanna meet your women. Sweaty palms I can do without.

DMT


Julie

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Oct 31, 2001, 12:48:03 PM10/31/01
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Dingus Milktoast wrote:

>>>Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?"

> I just wanna meet your women. Sweaty palms I can do without.

Size doesn't count ... you gotta know what to do with 'em.

JSH

bill folk

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Oct 31, 2001, 12:41:48 PM10/31/01
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"Julie" <jh...@fu.bu.edu> wrote in message
news:3BE03953...@fu.bu.edu...

Dingus knows exactly what to do with them. Personally, my garage is a little
damp, so I keep all my useless gear in a box in the closet.

Bill


Dingus Milktoast

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Oct 31, 2001, 12:48:27 PM10/31/01
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Julie wrote:

Always looking to advance my education Julie.

DMT

Jeremy the Sumo Climber

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Oct 31, 2001, 5:07:08 AM10/31/01
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"bill folk" <wf...@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:wJWD7.7009$86.2702821519@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...


Tehe, earlier this year when Bill and I climbed together in Tuolumne, he
offered to trim down my rack for me. The first thing he plucked off my gear
sling and dropped back in the trunk was the biner o' tricams.

And no, I didn't miss 'em.
;-)

- Sumo


Andy Gale

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Oct 31, 2001, 12:46:10 PM10/31/01
to

Wendy Joseph wrote:

> s...@mail1.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) writes:
>
>
>>I'm really glad someone else doesn't like tri-cams.
>>
>
> Trust me we are the (usually) silent majority. Their
> proponents are just very defensive. ;-)

Hear, hear. Give me Aliens. The only time tricams have made it onto my
rack in the past 5 years was on aid climbs. Even then it was only 1 pink
and 1 red.


Andy


Julie

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Oct 31, 2001, 1:25:13 PM10/31/01
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Dingus Milktoast wrote:

That's (s.t.b.) _Dr._ Julie to you.

JSH

stinkwagen

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Oct 31, 2001, 2:13:45 PM10/31/01
to
Dingus Milktoast <crha...@midtown.net> wrote

> The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs their
> functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.

...if only you could find an "f" synonym for "outweighs"...

The point Dingus presents provides a clear answer to the puzzling
problem, "how should I rack my tricams". Here is the definitive
answer.

The only reason you rack a piece with its own biner is so you can
place the piece and get it clipped more quickly in a tight spot.
Because of the fiddle factor of the tricams, you are not going to use
these things for this kind of situation. Thus, consolidate the weight
and bulk of your rack and combine the tricams on biners, as many as
you can without greatly increasing the possibility of dropping a whole
bunch of sh*t when taking the placed piece off of the racking biner.
If you are only bringing one or two tricams (which oughta be the
case), then you can combine them on a biner with your other fiddly
pieces, i.e. hexes.

Chuck

Larry Lindeman

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Oct 31, 2001, 2:21:27 PM10/31/01
to
In article <9rmuv...@drn.newsguy.com>, Mad Dog says...

>
>nathan says...
>
>>Ask a question about Tiblocs.
>
>OK, did you see the article in Climbing about using a Tibloc on a piece when
>simuclimbing? Has this been hashed out here in the last 2 weeks? Can this be a
>safe procedure? Won't the rope get chopped? Does Petzl condone this rig? Can

>I have another beer please?
>

The first thing I though of when I saw that article was, "here comes another 300
post thread."

Somehow, I knew you would bring that up.

-Larry


David Kreindler

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Oct 31, 2001, 2:49:43 PM10/31/01
to
Jeremy the Sumo Climber wrote:
>
> Tehe, earlier this year when Bill and I climbed together in Tuolumne, he
> offered to trim down my rack for me. The first thing he plucked off my gear
> sling and dropped back in the trunk was the biner o' tricams.
>
> And no, I didn't miss 'em.

I had no use for my Tricams in Tuolumne either. Nor my cams. I think I
used nothing but hexes (Rockcentrics) there.

OTOH, I have probably never placed a hex in the 'Gunks.

---------------------------------------------------------------
David Kreindler <ddd.hat...@well.com>
remove '.hates.spam' to reply

Mad Dog

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Oct 31, 2001, 2:28:39 PM10/31/01
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wsjg...@aol.comxyz says...

>Their proponents are just very defensive. ;-)

Defensive?

Defensive???

Tricams are cool but I only defend the smallest two, and within limited
application. If one wants a really light and/or compact, say for an alpine
route or maybe if you're trying to go all passive on a route you've led many
times, etc., tricams are the ticket. The thing is, there's not much size or
weight penalty when you just have the smallest two. There are places where no
other piece of gear will work, as long as you know how to use them.

>Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
>do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."

Did you confirm? Is there a corollary for women?

Mad "size 10.5 and hellifIknow" Dog

Nate

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Oct 31, 2001, 3:39:50 PM10/31/01
to

Mad Dog wrote in message <9rpjd...@drn.newsguy.com>...

>If one wants a really light and/or compact, say for an alpine
>route

Part of going light and fast is having stuff with you that works. The cams
that are the same size as the two smallest tri-cams are very small, light,
quicker to place and clean, and way more versitle and secure.

>or maybe if you're trying to go all passive on a route you've led many
>times, etc., tricams are the ticket.

This is definitely a Midwestern thing - sheesh - I can recall getting
Yosemite Crack at Taylor's down to 2 or 3 hexes. I haven't set up a TR
with webbing since I moved away, either.

>There are places where no
>other piece of gear will work,

Yes - but far more commonly they don't work at all, and just about any other
cam on the market will - especially the equivilant sized Aliens. Unless I
have specific information that there are pockets or that somehow only a
tricam will protect a runout, those little things stay at home.

- Nate

Mad Dog

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Oct 31, 2001, 3:19:24 PM10/31/01
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Larry says...

>Somehow, I knew you would bring that up.

Me? No way! Nathan started it.

Wendy Joseph

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Oct 31, 2001, 4:02:52 PM10/31/01
to
Mad Dog <mad6...@msn.com> writes:

>>Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
>>do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."

>Did you confirm? Is there a corollary for women?

Did not confirm. *If* I were doing a survey, I would start
with the guys with big feet and, uh, work my way down,
just in case it's true.

As it is, I can't say I have a statistically significant sample
size, but I'm not finished with my research yet.

As for a corollary for women, I have big feet, so whatever
that translates to is definitely good!

Wendy (5'11", size 11 shoes, well, only 9-1/2 men's)


Mad Dog

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Oct 31, 2001, 4:48:50 PM10/31/01
to
wsjg...@aol.comxyz says...

>As it is, I can't say I have a statistically significant sample
>size, but I'm not finished with my research yet.

Damn! I just love it when you talk dirty science.

Mad Dog

unread,
Oct 31, 2001, 5:00:31 PM10/31/01
to
Nate says...

>Mad Dog wrote:

>>If one wants a really light and/or compact, say for an alpine
>>route

>The cams that are the same size as the two smallest tri-cams are very

>small, light, quicker to place and clean, and way more versitle and secure.

That's your opinion and mine differs, but the numbers are clear:

0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams

0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams

I have no measure of bulk, but my gut instinct is that those two Aliens are
about double the volume of those two Tricams, if not quadruple.

>>There are places where no other piece of gear will work,

>Yes - but far more commonly they don't work at all, and just about any other
>cam on the market will - especially the equivilant sized Aliens. Unless I
>have specific information that there are pockets or that somehow only a
>tricam will protect a runout, those little things stay at home.

Debatable, but freedom of choice and all that. Remember, I didn't say I leave
small cams at home - but a couple of tricams total 61 grams (one gram less than
a single Oval) and are efficient gear since they work passive and as a camming
device. They are easily used as a short extender if you are going light on
slings and are in need. Like I said, freedom of choice.

Andy Gale

unread,
Oct 31, 2001, 6:24:41 PM10/31/01
to

Wendy Joseph wrote:

> Mad Dog <mad6...@msn.com> writes:
>
>
>>>Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
>>>do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."
>>>
>
>>Did you confirm? Is there a corollary for women?
>>
>
> Did not confirm. *If* I were doing a survey, I would start
> with the guys with big feet and, uh, work my way down,
> just in case it's true.
>
> As it is, I can't say I have a statistically significant sample
> size, but I'm not finished with my research yet.

Maybe you and Jean should compile your research and do a meta-analysis.


It might be statistically significant then.


:)

Andy


Nate B

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Oct 31, 2001, 10:38:40 PM10/31/01
to

Mad Dog wrote in message <9rps9...@drn.newsguy.com>...

>That's your opinion and mine differs, but the numbers are clear:
>
>0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
>1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams
>
>0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
>1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams

I was checking my Mountain Gear catalog for some other numbers [I can't
believe I'm replying like this ...] and double checked yours while I was at
it. They list the 0.5,1.0 tricams at 70.8, 73.6 grams, and the Aliens you
quote at 83,88 grams. I got confused so I walked out to my gear box and
picked up an alien and a tricam. I couldn't tell the difference, but I
don't think I could detect a 75% difference at those masses anyway.

Anyway - let's say you have a numerically simplified rack of say, 5 # 1
Camalots and 5 Nutrino biners. My catalog has puts this rack at 5*151+5*36
= 935 grams. Let's toss in a couple "other" things to put this DMT approved
minimalist rack at 1000 grams even. Now let's say we upgrade from tricams
to Aliens using the mean values from above - we've increased this tiny
rack's weight by about 5%. For most, I would guess this increase is going
to be way less than 1% when all is accounted for.

But, as you mention, Personal Preference trumps all, as it should. And -
yeah - a few tricams are really nothing much extra - but neither are a few
Aliens.

BTW - nice pix. Opland and McCoy - twins seperated at birth?


- Nate


Mad Dog

unread,
Nov 1, 2001, 8:39:36 AM11/1/01
to
Nate says...

>Mad Dog wrote:

>>That's your opinion and mine differs, but the numbers are clear:

>>0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
>>1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams

>>0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
>>1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams

>I was checking my Mountain Gear catalog for some other numbers [I can't
>believe I'm replying like this ...] and double checked yours while I was at
>it. They list the 0.5,1.0 tricams at 70.8, 73.6 grams, and the Aliens you
>quote at 83,88 grams.

I got my numbers from the Mountain Fools cattle-log. I have a very hard time
believing the pink tri-cam is anywhere near 2.5 ounces, but I'll bring in the
above four devices into the lab and weigh them to check. Hmmm, interesting, MEC
lists numbers within 1 gram of what I show above - perhaps they bought the same
good or bad company line? Actually, I think the numbers I posted before are
probably close. A #7 Wallnut has about the same amount of aluminum as a pink
Tricam and the 7 Wallnut is listed at 40 grams. Since it has a steel wire
rather than thin web, it makes sense.

>BTW - nice pix. Opland and McCoy - twins seperated at birth?

You mean separated at the buffet?

bbense+rec.cli...@telemark.stanford.edu

unread,
Nov 1, 2001, 9:29:59 AM11/1/01
to
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <3BDEE5CA...@midtown.net>,
Dingus Milktoast <crha...@midtown.net> wrote:
>
>I'm sure tricams are all about what you said, and more. I mostly climb granite.


>The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs their
>functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.
>

- - But that is the beauty of tri-cams. You spend 10 minutes at
that really good rest[1] "because I was having trouble with that
tri-cam", not because you were sucking wind at 8000 ft.

- - Booker C. Bense

[1]- Tricam placing and good rests seem to go together...

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Version: 2.6.2

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--


Amanda Tarr

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Nov 1, 2001, 12:45:26 PM11/1/01
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Mad Dog <mad6...@msn.com> wrote in message

> 0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
> 1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams
>
> 0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
> 1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams

I remember Malcolm doing a study once (well, at least I think I remember)
comparing failure forces on SLCDs and ball nuts of equivalent size.

I think the ball nuts were quite a bit stronger, lighter too. I'd be
interested... well maybe not that interested.. to see a comparison of
aliens or tcus with the pink and red tricam.

It doesn't matter to me how strong those ball nuts are. I still dont see
ever incorporating them into a free climbing rack. I keep a pink tricam
with my midsize nuts. I seem to use it at a lot of belays.

Amanda

Mad Dog

unread,
Nov 1, 2001, 1:37:33 PM11/1/01
to
at...@soe.sony.com says...

>I think the ball nuts were quite a bit stronger, lighter too. I'd be
>interested... well maybe not that interested.. to see a comparison of
>aliens or tcus with the pink and red tricam.

I once had my ball nuts tested by aliens.

Andy Gale

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Nov 1, 2001, 2:11:00 PM11/1/01
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Mad Dog wrote:


Did you have flames come out of your ass like Cartman did?


Andy


Mad Dog

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Nov 1, 2001, 3:27:22 PM11/1/01
to
Andy says...

>Mad Dog wrote:

>>I once had my ball nuts tested by aliens.

>Did you have flames come out of your ass like Cartman did?

No way. I mighta been a little high at the time, but I knew better than to sign
up for the Saddle Wedge testing. And I stayed WAAAY away from the anal flossing
tests, thank you beddy much.

Cartman

unread,
Nov 1, 2001, 10:50:32 PM11/1/01
to
Andy Gale <ag...@scripps.edu> wrote in message news:<3BE19E44...@scripps.edu>...

> Mad Dog wrote:
>
> > at...@soe.sony.com says...
> >
> > I once had my ball nuts tested by aliens.
>
> Did you have flames come out of your ass like Cartman did?
>
> Andy

did not.

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