Justin D.
This is something of a personal issue; hence religious arguments might
ensue.
My racking philosophy is to put things that might not need a runner,
because they already have longish slings, on individual 'biners.
Everything else gets racked in clumps.
The only gear of mine that falls into the former category is
Rockcentrics and Rocks on Dyneema. (If I used cams with extendable
slings, like the DMM, those would fall into that category too.) Wired
nuts always need a runner, and most cams usually do, so they fall into
the clump-racking category. Specifically: I rack a double set of 1-6
Rocks on one 'biner and a set of 6-10 on another; cams get racked in
threes or twos, depending on their size. Of course, if I had a 5 or 6
Friend, it would get its own 'biner simply because it its size.
Tricams also almost always need a runner, so they fall into the
clump-racking category. I usually carry two pink and two red Tricams on
one 'biner and, if I bring them (i.e. in the 'Gunks), brown and blue
Tricams on another 'biner. I do not have any larger Tricams.
---------------------------------------------------------------
David Kreindler <ddd.hat...@well.com>
remove '.hates.spam' to reply
Rack the pink one on its own biner, rack all the rest together on a single
biner. Now clip the pink one to your gear sling and deposit the others in
the same place as all the other gear you bought but really never use. I
don't know, but it seems the more I climb the less I want to carry.
sprouty
> What way do most people find works best for racking tri-cams?
Pink, red, brown, purple, all on one 'biner.
JSH
I rack them on an old broken biner with a cracked gate pin. Seriously, I really
do.
They hang from the "curious, old pieces of crap" hook along side of a homemade
friend, some rusty pins and a few trashed cams.
Tricams have never found a useful or welcome home on my rack. I mostly encounter
them as fixed pieces on heavily traveled trade routes (like Jam Crack). I remove
them and use them like Christmas tree ornaments in my garage.
Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?
DMT
Tricams are great in horizontal cracks, as in the 'Gunks, which would
crimp the stems of my cams if I fell on 'em.
Sometimes I use them like hexes, i.e. instead of cams, if I am
travelling light.
I dunno about most, but I keep 2 reds and 3 pinkies together on 1 biner.
If I carry "The Boat Anchor" (#7) I clip the sling to one of the crossbeams
and hang it POINT OUT on the back of my harness. Better yet just leave it in
your partners pack.
>> Dingus Milktoast wrote:
>>
>>I rack them on an old broken biner with a cracked gate pin. Seriously, I really
>>do.
Thats where the larger sizes go...along with the CamLocks and Sliders and
various other "I might need these sometime" peices. I keep those in a
storage crate in my truck so I can wish for them from mid-pitch.
>> What do you use those boogers for anyway?
I use them instead of those archaic nuts. IE: When I have run out of
finger-sized booty cams.
nathan (who's only lead fall [so far] this year was on a pinky) sweet
> Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?
Toruturing big-handed people who hate them.
JSH
Justin D.
"Dingus Milktoast" <crha...@midtown.net> wrote in message
news:3BDEC814...@midtown.net...
In article <3BDEC814...@midtown.net>,
- - What do you use instead? (i.e. small light finger to hand sized
crack protection... ) I kind of like them, but I climb easy
stuff and I'm still dumb enough to carry a few camlocks.
- - Booker C. Bense
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>Pink, red, brown, purple, all on one 'biner.
I think it would have made more sense if the 3rd smallest one was purple.
> Besides, wether or not a piece gets used depends on what placements
> your looking for.
Ya reckon?
You mean, like, when I'm leading and decide to place ALL of the large cams first
(so my 2nd carries them instead of me!)?
I'm sure tricams are all about what you said, and more. I mostly climb granite.
The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs their
functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.
> This past weekend I was climbing and had someone say
> they'd never seen anyone place the 4.5 camalot before, and on the 5 pitches
> of trad I did, it was used to protect on 3 of them and halped build an
> anchor at the top or another.
Well dude, if you had carried a 4.5 camelot up each of those climbs without
placing it, I'd say a head examination was way over due!
If you build it they will come?
DMT
>Dingus Milktoast wrote:
>
>> Your mileage probably varies. What do you use those boogers for anyway?
Julie explained:
>Toruturing big-handed people who hate them.
>
>JSH
Me? I like to fix them sos I got something to clip next time I lead that
particular pitch. See? Carry them once, never have to carry them again.
They'll always be right where you left them, ready to serve over and over as
needed. Love them. (The proceeding also applies to #4 Wallnuts).
Anne in NYC racks the tricams like so...whichever ones are left (pink, red,
brown) get a home all on one 'biner.
> Justin Driemeyer wrote:
>>Besides, wether or not a piece gets used depends on what placements
>>your looking for.
>
> You mean, like, when I'm leading and decide to place ALL of the large cams first
> (so my 2nd carries them instead of me!)?
A-ha: I just realized reason number 34.3:
To build an beautiful anchor with them, leaving my partner strangely
undecided between being happy I've left her all the cams for the next
pitch, and scared-to-death of a belay made of 'those things.'
JSH
Ask a question about Tiblocs.
nathan (I dare ya) sweet
I keep them on individual biners, just like my SLCDs. In
fact, for the limited amount of lead climbing I do I often
take my tricams along instead of SLCDs, and use them where I
otherwise would be slotting an SLCD. I think of them more
like SLCDs than nuts.
-Mike
>Ask a question about Tiblocs.
OK, did you see the article in Climbing about using a Tibloc on a piece when
simuclimbing? Has this been hashed out here in the last 2 weeks? Can this be a
safe procedure? Won't the rope get chopped? Does Petzl condone this rig? Can
I have another beer please?
If used in conjuction with a modified Reverso, yes, but Petzl denies this
claim.
> Can I have another beer please?
No you may not. You are back from vacation and need to suffer with the rest
of us.
Nice TR BTW...
nathan sweet
PS: Do they still allow Tricam use in Michigan? I hear the Gunks has
condemned them as "Fixed Protection"....
>PS: Do they still allow Tricam use in Michigan?
Only in the upper peninsula. Climbing is not allowed in the lower, following
the Access Fund's bailout, due to an extreme lack of rock.
Seems strange that some one 'authority' would preclude one type of pro and not
another (aside from destructive pro).
JNH
j...@ti.com wrote:
> Why would Tricams not be allowed? The way I read the question, other pro would
> allowed.
>
> Seems strange that some one 'authority' would preclude one type of pro and not
> another (aside from destructive pro).
Why would one man have no sense of humor while another does? It seems
strange that such an obvious joke could be taken seriously.
Andy
The little points have been proven to erode the rock with repeated
placements. There is a famous climb in the Gunks (Pink Baby?) that was
downgraded from a .9+ to an .8 because of this. Used to be a real woman's
climb, but now any sausage-fingered ape can get perfect finger locks.
>Seems strange that some one 'authority' would preclude one type of pro and not
>another (aside from destructive pro).
Strange? That's the type of attitude that got the entire state of
Connecticut closed to climbing. We all need to respect the land
owners/managers, no matter how subjective and ridiculous their rules become,
or we will be waiting in line someplace else next season.
nathan sweet
>
> I'm sure tricams are all about what you said, and more. I mostly climb
> granite. The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs
> their functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.
> DMT
I can testify that tricams work great in CA granite. They weigh a lot less
than SLCD's too. Used them all the time at the Leap. I used to rack them
all on a single biner: 1 pinks, and 1 ea. of the next three. Think of them
as a more modern Titon, Dingus. YMMV, IMHO, etc, etc.
Pretty close. Actually, it's pink, pink, red, brown, purple, all on one
'biner.
> >Julie says...
> >Pink, red, brown, purple, all on one 'biner.
>
> I think it would have made more sense if the 3rd smallest one was purple.
>
Color theory was definitely not a consideration when they slung
(slinged?) these things: the next three colors are Blue, Black, and then
hey, it's Blue again.
sprouty
JNH
Titons sucked.
I owned tricams. Back as far as 1986. Modified them by inserting coat hanger
wire into the sling to make them stiff for placing them like wire nuts. Added
tape to the back of the nut head to keep them from flopping around when
placing them that way. Used them extensively on southern sandstone.
I don't use them anymore. Don't care for them. Sorry I've offended all you
Lowe fans. Really, I'm sorry I said your favorite protections sucks. You go
right ahead screwing with your fickle gadgets. Enjoy and all that.
DMT
: I don't use them anymore. Don't care for them. Sorry I've offended all you
: Lowe fans. Really, I'm sorry I said your favorite protections sucks. You go
: right ahead screwing with your fickle gadgets. Enjoy and all that.
I'm really glad someone else doesn't like tri-cams. It's hard
to climb in the gunks without them. people look at you like you've
got three heads if you don't have at least two .5's.
If I climbed at the Gunks I'd likely use them. Same too if I'm ever allowed back
in my home state.
DMT
>I'm really glad someone else doesn't like tri-cams.
Trust me we are the (usually) silent majority. Their
proponents are just very defensive. ;-)
Wendy
Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."
: If I climbed at the Gunks I'd likely use them. Same too if I'm ever allowed back
: in my home state.
where do they work well in TN? i didn't find much use for them in
obed or at t-wall.
It's useful to remember that micro 3-cam units didn't always exist...
When I was first introduced to the harder sandstone grades, small horizontal crack
protection (of which we were aware) included pitons, slider nuts and tricams. Of the
3, tricams were the least evil. Sliders worked pretty good, until you fell on one of
those brass bastards. Pins worked pretty good too, but generated a lot of upside down
smiley faces.
The advent of flexible microcams greatly reduced the need to depend on tricams, at
least with the climbing that I do.
Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?" Or how about the old
international conspiracy... "The TriCam Commission?"
DMT
: It's useful to remember that micro 3-cam units didn't always exist...
: The advent of flexible microcams greatly reduced the need to depend on tricams, at
: least with the climbing that I do.
Damn straight. I can't even imagine climbing B.A. (before aliens).
: Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?" Or how about the old
: international conspiracy... "The TriCam Commission?"
They've totally got a chant. "Double up on pink, double up on pink"
Admit it Dingus, you're just jealous because we haven't shown you the secret
handshake :-)
T
I just wanna meet your women. Sweaty palms I can do without.
DMT
>>>Do you Tricam folks constitute a cult? "The Cult of the TriCam?"
> I just wanna meet your women. Sweaty palms I can do without.
Size doesn't count ... you gotta know what to do with 'em.
JSH
Dingus knows exactly what to do with them. Personally, my garage is a little
damp, so I keep all my useless gear in a box in the closet.
Bill
Always looking to advance my education Julie.
DMT
Tehe, earlier this year when Bill and I climbed together in Tuolumne, he
offered to trim down my rack for me. The first thing he plucked off my gear
sling and dropped back in the trunk was the biner o' tricams.
And no, I didn't miss 'em.
;-)
- Sumo
Wendy Joseph wrote:
> s...@mail1.sas.upenn.edu (Shilajit T Gangulee) writes:
>
>
>>I'm really glad someone else doesn't like tri-cams.
>>
>
> Trust me we are the (usually) silent majority. Their
> proponents are just very defensive. ;-)
Hear, hear. Give me Aliens. The only time tricams have made it onto my
rack in the past 5 years was on aid climbs. Even then it was only 1 pink
and 1 red.
Andy
That's (s.t.b.) _Dr._ Julie to you.
JSH
> The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs their
> functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.
...if only you could find an "f" synonym for "outweighs"...
The point Dingus presents provides a clear answer to the puzzling
problem, "how should I rack my tricams". Here is the definitive
answer.
The only reason you rack a piece with its own biner is so you can
place the piece and get it clipped more quickly in a tight spot.
Because of the fiddle factor of the tricams, you are not going to use
these things for this kind of situation. Thus, consolidate the weight
and bulk of your rack and combine the tricams on biners, as many as
you can without greatly increasing the possibility of dropping a whole
bunch of sh*t when taking the placed piece off of the racking biner.
If you are only bringing one or two tricams (which oughta be the
case), then you can combine them on a biner with your other fiddly
pieces, i.e. hexes.
Chuck
The first thing I though of when I saw that article was, "here comes another 300
post thread."
Somehow, I knew you would bring that up.
-Larry
I had no use for my Tricams in Tuolumne either. Nor my cams. I think I
used nothing but hexes (Rockcentrics) there.
OTOH, I have probably never placed a hex in the 'Gunks.
---------------------------------------------------------------
David Kreindler <ddd.hat...@well.com>
remove '.hates.spam' to reply
>Their proponents are just very defensive. ;-)
Defensive?
Defensive???
Tricams are cool but I only defend the smallest two, and within limited
application. If one wants a really light and/or compact, say for an alpine
route or maybe if you're trying to go all passive on a route you've led many
times, etc., tricams are the ticket. The thing is, there's not much size or
weight penalty when you just have the smallest two. There are places where no
other piece of gear will work, as long as you know how to use them.
>Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
>do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."
Did you confirm? Is there a corollary for women?
Mad "size 10.5 and hellifIknow" Dog
>If one wants a really light and/or compact, say for an alpine
>route
Part of going light and fast is having stuff with you that works. The cams
that are the same size as the two smallest tri-cams are very small, light,
quicker to place and clean, and way more versitle and secure.
>or maybe if you're trying to go all passive on a route you've led many
>times, etc., tricams are the ticket.
This is definitely a Midwestern thing - sheesh - I can recall getting
Yosemite Crack at Taylor's down to 2 or 3 hexes. I haven't set up a TR
with webbing since I moved away, either.
>There are places where no
>other piece of gear will work,
Yes - but far more commonly they don't work at all, and just about any other
cam on the market will - especially the equivilant sized Aliens. Unless I
have specific information that there are pockets or that somehow only a
tricam will protect a runout, those little things stay at home.
- Nate
>Somehow, I knew you would bring that up.
Me? No way! Nathan started it.
>>Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
>>do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."
>Did you confirm? Is there a corollary for women?
Did not confirm. *If* I were doing a survey, I would start
with the guys with big feet and, uh, work my way down,
just in case it's true.
As it is, I can't say I have a statistically significant sample
size, but I'm not finished with my research yet.
As for a corollary for women, I have big feet, so whatever
that translates to is definitely good!
Wendy (5'11", size 11 shoes, well, only 9-1/2 men's)
>As it is, I can't say I have a statistically significant sample
>size, but I'm not finished with my research yet.
Damn! I just love it when you talk dirty science.
>Mad Dog wrote:
>>If one wants a really light and/or compact, say for an alpine
>>route
>The cams that are the same size as the two smallest tri-cams are very
>small, light, quicker to place and clean, and way more versitle and secure.
That's your opinion and mine differs, but the numbers are clear:
0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams
0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams
I have no measure of bulk, but my gut instinct is that those two Aliens are
about double the volume of those two Tricams, if not quadruple.
>>There are places where no other piece of gear will work,
>Yes - but far more commonly they don't work at all, and just about any other
>cam on the market will - especially the equivilant sized Aliens. Unless I
>have specific information that there are pockets or that somehow only a
>tricam will protect a runout, those little things stay at home.
Debatable, but freedom of choice and all that. Remember, I didn't say I leave
small cams at home - but a couple of tricams total 61 grams (one gram less than
a single Oval) and are efficient gear since they work passive and as a camming
device. They are easily used as a short extender if you are going light on
slings and are in need. Like I said, freedom of choice.
Wendy Joseph wrote:
> Mad Dog <mad6...@msn.com> writes:
>
>
>>>Overheard at Josh this weekend: "Dude, what size feet
>>>do you have?" "7. And no, it's not true."
>>>
>
>>Did you confirm? Is there a corollary for women?
>>
>
> Did not confirm. *If* I were doing a survey, I would start
> with the guys with big feet and, uh, work my way down,
> just in case it's true.
>
> As it is, I can't say I have a statistically significant sample
> size, but I'm not finished with my research yet.
Maybe you and Jean should compile your research and do a meta-analysis.
It might be statistically significant then.
:)
Andy
>That's your opinion and mine differs, but the numbers are clear:
>
>0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
>1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams
>
>0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
>1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams
I was checking my Mountain Gear catalog for some other numbers [I can't
believe I'm replying like this ...] and double checked yours while I was at
it. They list the 0.5,1.0 tricams at 70.8, 73.6 grams, and the Aliens you
quote at 83,88 grams. I got confused so I walked out to my gear box and
picked up an alien and a tricam. I couldn't tell the difference, but I
don't think I could detect a 75% difference at those masses anyway.
Anyway - let's say you have a numerically simplified rack of say, 5 # 1
Camalots and 5 Nutrino biners. My catalog has puts this rack at 5*151+5*36
= 935 grams. Let's toss in a couple "other" things to put this DMT approved
minimalist rack at 1000 grams even. Now let's say we upgrade from tricams
to Aliens using the mean values from above - we've increased this tiny
rack's weight by about 5%. For most, I would guess this increase is going
to be way less than 1% when all is accounted for.
But, as you mention, Personal Preference trumps all, as it should. And -
yeah - a few tricams are really nothing much extra - but neither are a few
Aliens.
BTW - nice pix. Opland and McCoy - twins seperated at birth?
- Nate
>Mad Dog wrote:
>>That's your opinion and mine differs, but the numbers are clear:
>>0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
>>1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams
>>0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
>>1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams
>I was checking my Mountain Gear catalog for some other numbers [I can't
>believe I'm replying like this ...] and double checked yours while I was at
>it. They list the 0.5,1.0 tricams at 70.8, 73.6 grams, and the Aliens you
>quote at 83,88 grams.
I got my numbers from the Mountain Fools cattle-log. I have a very hard time
believing the pink tri-cam is anywhere near 2.5 ounces, but I'll bring in the
above four devices into the lab and weigh them to check. Hmmm, interesting, MEC
lists numbers within 1 gram of what I show above - perhaps they bought the same
good or bad company line? Actually, I think the numbers I posted before are
probably close. A #7 Wallnut has about the same amount of aluminum as a pink
Tricam and the 7 Wallnut is listed at 40 grams. Since it has a steel wire
rather than thin web, it makes sense.
>BTW - nice pix. Opland and McCoy - twins seperated at birth?
You mean separated at the buffet?
In article <3BDEE5CA...@midtown.net>,
Dingus Milktoast <crha...@midtown.net> wrote:
>
>I'm sure tricams are all about what you said, and more. I mostly climb granite.
>The fiddle factor of fucking with those fuckers far outweighs their
>functionality, in my ever so humble opinion.
>
- - But that is the beauty of tri-cams. You spend 10 minutes at
that really good rest[1] "because I was having trouble with that
tri-cam", not because you were sucking wind at 8000 ft.
- - Booker C. Bense
[1]- Tricam placing and good rests seem to go together...
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--
> 0.5 Tricam: 0.63-1.13", 26 grams
> 1.0 Tricam: 0.75-1.19", 35 grams
>
> 0.75 Alien: 0.67-0.98", 68 grams
> 1.0 Alien: 0.91-1.34", 74 grams
I remember Malcolm doing a study once (well, at least I think I remember)
comparing failure forces on SLCDs and ball nuts of equivalent size.
I think the ball nuts were quite a bit stronger, lighter too. I'd be
interested... well maybe not that interested.. to see a comparison of
aliens or tcus with the pink and red tricam.
It doesn't matter to me how strong those ball nuts are. I still dont see
ever incorporating them into a free climbing rack. I keep a pink tricam
with my midsize nuts. I seem to use it at a lot of belays.
Amanda
>I think the ball nuts were quite a bit stronger, lighter too. I'd be
>interested... well maybe not that interested.. to see a comparison of
>aliens or tcus with the pink and red tricam.
I once had my ball nuts tested by aliens.
Mad Dog wrote:
Did you have flames come out of your ass like Cartman did?
Andy
>Mad Dog wrote:
>>I once had my ball nuts tested by aliens.
>Did you have flames come out of your ass like Cartman did?
No way. I mighta been a little high at the time, but I knew better than to sign
up for the Saddle Wedge testing. And I stayed WAAAY away from the anal flossing
tests, thank you beddy much.
did not.