Req: Exposed routes in colorado.
taimi metzler
route recommendations...
i have a bad head for exposure (yeah, don't we all) and the only way
i figure i'm going to Fix this is by leading more, exposed, traditional
routes. being a solid .7 leader and a reasonable .8 leader, i ask:
can anyone recommend routes from 5.5-5.8 that have some really good
exposure? nice flat walls where you're climbing through the air,
or vertical aretes. oh, and since i'm working on fear of exposure and not
fear of runout, adequate protection would be pleasant. i'll be going
back east next summer, so route recommendations either in the gunks
or anywhere in new hampshire would also be vastly appreciated.
many thanks for any help you can give!
taimi
--
*************************************************************************
MURAL: Yonder nor sorghum-stenches shut ladle gulls stopper torque wet
strainers!
go ahead, ask... metz...@stripe.colorado.edu
George Bell
> i have a bad head for exposure (yeah, don't we all) and the only way
> i figure i'm going to Fix this is by leading more, exposed, traditional
> routes. being a solid .7 leader and a reasonable .8 leader, i ask:
>
> can anyone recommend routes from 5.5-5.8 that have some really good
> exposure? nice flat walls where you're climbing through the air,
> or vertical aretes. oh, and since i'm working on fear of exposure and not
> fear of runout, adequate protection would be pleasant.
In Eldo, try:
Swanson's Arete
Rewritten
NW Arete on the Bastille (name may not quite be right, the 5.8 in that area)
Ruper
Reggae
Gambit
If you wanna try leading the easier pitches on a 5.9, go for:
Anthill Direct (an easy 5.9, definitely gets some air)
Yellow Spur
-George
Jeff Elison
: i have a bad head for exposure (yeah, don't we all) and the only way
: i figure i'm going to Fix this is by leading more, exposed, traditional
: routes. being a solid .7 leader and a reasonable .8 leader, i ask:
: can anyone recommend routes from 5.5-5.8 that have some really good
: exposure?
: so route recommendations either in the gunks
: or anywhere in new hampshire would also be vastly appreciated.
Since George posted a good list for Eldo, I'll point out that the Gunks
is THE place to go for your 5.5-5.8 exposure dose!! DOZENS of climbs
will fit the bill. Off the top of my head,
- CCK
- Thin Slabs direct finish is WAY out there!
- Ape Call
- Son of Easy O
- Arrow
- Modern Times - WAY OUT!
- Three Doves
- Limelight
- Horseman
- High Exposure
- Frog's Head
- Moonlight
- Shockley's Ceiling
And that's just in the Trapps. The Near Trapps offer many others.
Millbrook is a hike with few routes in the grade range, however it IS
exposed!
good luck,
Mort
Steven W. Tregay
with 200' straight down.
Adam H. Oppenheim
metz...@stripe.Colorado.EDU (taimi metzler) writes:
>
>following ilana's Sage Advice about being specific in requests for
>route recommendations...
>
>
>or vertical aretes. oh, and since i'm working on fear of exposure and not
>
>taimi
One of my favorite exposed classics in colorado is the Ellingwood Arete
on the Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Christo rrange.
Its about 2000'of exposed alpine rock: 1000' or so of 4th class, w/ the exposur
e and difficulty increasing until the 5.7 crux pitch at 14,000'. However it is
a VERY serious route with great potential for epics. Like a typical east facing
route, the incoming weather cannot be seen until you are in it. Oppurtunities
for retreat are marginal ftom the top part of the route: not technically speaki
ng but more in terms of relative safety- retreat is not necessarily safer.
One of the '50 Classic Climbs'; outrageous line up a continuous arete that
leads directly to the summit of perhaps the most stupendous 14er in colorado.
Hope that was of help,
Adam Oppenheim
wayne trzyna
taimi metzler <metz...@stripe.Colorado.EDU> wrote:
>can anyone recommend routes from 5.5-5.8 that have some really good
>exposure? nice flat walls where you're climbing through the air,
>or vertical aretes. oh, and since i'm working on fear of exposure and not
Check out Kor's Flake on Sundance buttress, but bring some BIG protection
if you're not comfortable in a run-out squeeze chimney.
Montezuma's Tower in Garden of the Gods has excellent exposure,
but is a bit run out.
Speaking of exposure, has anyone done Slipstream (1000m, WI 4+, VI)
in the Canadian Rockies? It ends on a prow with 1000 meter drop on
both sides. If anyone reading this has done this route, please
send email.
--
-Wayne Trzyna
trz...@CS.ColoState.EDU
Ron Olsen
> > can anyone recommend routes from 5.5-5.8 that have some really good
> > exposure? nice flat walls where you're climbing through the air,
> > or vertical aretes. oh, and since i'm working on fear of exposure and not
> > fear of runout, adequate protection would be pleasant.
>
> Rewritten
The fourth pitch traverse and hand crack on Rewritten is
one of the best, exposed 5.7-5.8 pitches in Eldorado.
Be sure to do Rebuffat's Arete on the 5th pitch of Rewritten,
climbing up a knife-edge arete, with the ground falling away
steeply on all sides, avoiding the easy gully to its left.
One of the most exposed, aesthetic 5.5 pitches I've ever done!
> If you wanna try leading the easier pitches on a 5.9, go for:
> Anthill Direct (an easy 5.9, definitely gets some air)
If you're not up to 5.9, try the Old Anthill, which starts
up Pseudo Sidetrack, then goes up a ramp and turns the corner
to a wildly exposed 5.5 traverse to connect up with Anthill Direct.
> Yellow Spur
The exposed belay stance atop the fifth pitch of the Spur
is one of the finest spots in Eldorado.
Icarus (5.6) is an easier route
which finishes up the same exposed, run-out 5.6
knife-edge final pitch as Yellow Spur.
The lower face-climbing pitches on Icarus have lots
of exposure, but the pro is thin in spots.
The Bulge (5.7) has great exposure, but the
runouts may not be to your taste.
Breakfast In Bed (on the Bastille) is an exposed, steep 5.8
with a committing start.
Ron Olsen
r...@dr.att.com
Boulder Colorado
Rawdomg
writes:
>And that's just in the Trapps. The Near Trapps offer many others.
At Near Trapps don't miss Yellow Ridge, Birdland (do both pitches) or
Gelsa (the airiest 5.3 pitch around!) Back at Trapps, add Bonnies Roof to
the list (it may be a 5.9 in some books, but I'd call it 5.8). Also take
a shot at Directissima. It's a 9, but not too bad, and the arete pitch is
terrific.
Mike