Gunks easy routes
Eric Kirchner
I am taking my parents to the Gunks for old times sake (?)
They have not climbed since something like 1962. Any suggestions
for excellent easy routes (around 5.3). I was thinking of
maybe doing Beginner's Delight and/or Minty. I am looking
for big belay ledges and probably not too steep. Any
other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
--
Eric Kirchner
kir...@rpi.edu
Michael Langdon
Eric,
Both are great climbs, but of the two, I would say go with Beginner's
Delight. Both ledges are really big, the pro is good and the third pitch
is really great. There is a traverse on the second pitch that can be a
little tricky to protect, but the foot holds are relatively big.
I did Minty recently, its a great climb, but the better of the second
belay spots is a really small ledge (almost a hanging belay). I was
leading with a friend, this was his second triple pitch ever, he found
some of the corner moves to be tricky, especially the move onto the face
on the third pitch.
Bring two ropes for the rap down. Beginner's Delight climbs to the
top, you can rap down Snooky's (done in two parts) .Minty climbs to a
rappel on the ledge after the third pitch or you can climb an easy fourth
pitch to the top for a walk down.
Another climb to take a look at would be Northern Pillar 5.2. I took
my beginner friend up this triple and he had no trouble. The ledges are
big and at the top you can rap off that great free rappel for Madame G's.
Another great 5.4 would be Bunny, though its been too long to remember
the belay stations. Hope this helps, Have Fun!
Mike
bri...@ids.net
Minty (5.3) is your best bet. As is, Three Pines (5.3)
and the Northern and Southern Piller (5.3s). IMHO Beginner's Delight
(5.3) is very sustained with pumpy roofs on the third pitch and
is very sandbagged; even more so than other Gunks climbs.
Brian
In Article <4p52bm$o...@usenet.rpi.edu>
Rob Heineman
Easy Overhang (2) and Betty (3) are both quality, though frequently
crowded.
--
Rob Heineman
Greg Hoff
Better be careful, isn't the Gunks on PRIVATE land? (i.e Bill (Faerie
1) article Re: NYC Area) Bill might not like all you "sport climber
types" trespassin' on HIS land... How could you be SO insensitive?
Greg "where's my crag" Hoff
George Hoffman
Eric Kirchner wrote:
>
> I am taking my parents to the Gunks for old times sake (?)
> They have not climbed since something like 1962. Any suggestions
> for excellent easy routes (around 5.3). I was thinking of
> maybe doing Beginner's Delight and/or Minty. I am looking
> for big belay ledges and probably not too steep. Any
> other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> Eric Kirchner
> kir...@rpi.edu
How about the Northern Pillar? It's 5.2, three pitches and the first
climb in the Trapps (FA Hans Kraus and Susanne Simon 1941). It was also
my first climb (1959).
--
George Hoffman tit...@hooked.net
http://www.hooked.net/users/titangh
Webpage contents: Lawrence of Arabia Studies, Brough Motorcycle, SMLE
Rifle, Webley Revolver
Mkword
Twin Oaks and Three Pines are classic 5.3s.
I would try those before venturing onto Beginner's
Delight.
BD was my first full lead. I stood on that ledge at the start
of P3 looking for the climb, reading the guidebook description
over and over, thinking this can't be it ... this has
got to be 5.10. Well, it's 5.3-5.4 and it's EXPOSED!
Don't miss it. Not too pumpy as you are always over your
feet.
-Nick
John Young
In article <31C474...@hooked.net>,
George Hoffman <tit...@hooked.net> wrote:
>Eric Kirchner wrote:
>>
>> I am taking my parents to the Gunks for old times sake (?)
>> They have not climbed since something like 1962. Any suggestions
>> for excellent easy routes (around 5.3). I was thinking of
>> maybe doing Beginner's Delight and/or Minty. I am looking
>> for big belay ledges and probably not too steep. Any
>> other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> --
>> Eric Kirchner
>> kir...@rpi.edu
I haven't done it but by the looks Three Pines would be a good choice.
5.3 Three stars, plenty of space, nothing too steep.
The only problem is beating the crowds to it! Go during the week if you
can (tues-thrurs) it's like a whole new experience from the weekend mob
scene.
John Young
jyo...@monmouth.com
Iain
....re.gunks easy routes....
Can't remember the name,but there is a great 5.2 on the right of
one of the classic 5.6's....Madame something or other.Anyone know
the climb I'm describing appaulingly?
I remember clipping lots of old pegs and finishing up a large
corner to a platform from which people abseil off a big leaning
tree.
Iain
Steve LaSala
In article <4qbhnf$6mb$2...@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>,
Iain <10600...@CompuServe.COM> wrote:
>....re.gunks easy routes....
>
>Can't remember the name,but there is a great 5.2 on the right of
>one of the classic 5.6's....Madame something or other.Anyone know
>the climb I'm describing appaulingly?
Madame Grunebaum's Wulst?
I remember enjoying "Horseman" (5.4-5) as a new leader, and the 5.6 roof
variation on "Bunny" (my first lead). Also "Double Chin" (5.4-5). It's
not often you get to pull over a non-trivial roof at that level. Good
fun.
Jiggles/Wiggles
Black Fly
69
Boston
Harvard
Kens Crack (5.7, not beginner material, but very aestheticly pleasing,
and easily toproped)
Steve LaSala
Seattle, WA
William Speidel
You must mean Northern Pillar down on Guide's Wall (5.2)
Marc Chrusch
>> ....re.gunks easy routes....
Can't remember the name,but there is a great 5.2 on the right of
one of the classic 5.6's....Madame something or other.Anyone
know
the climb I'm describing appaulingly?
I remember clipping lots of old pegs and finishing up a large
corner to a platform from which people abseil off a big leaning
tree.
<<
You are describing Northern Pillar - off to the right of Madame
Grunnebaum's Wulst
Marc Chrusch
10306...@compuserve.com
--
Marc Chrusch
10306...@compuserve.com
The future is now, for sufficiently small values of future (or
sufficiently large values of now).
DBerthiaum
Dude,
try doing Three Pines (5.3) it offers three very large belay ledges
with, as the name implies a huge pine tree on each ledge. These pines
make incredible belay stations, and the views that they offer are superb!
Ryanclan
In article <4qkcao$k...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, dbert...@aol.com
(DBerthiaum) writes:
I totally agree; that's a great climb. Not to mention the little exposure
that would shake nerves. I saw a guide taking a 9 year old girl and her
father up that climb (and they would have finished if it hadn't been for
the rain, too!).
ryan...@aol.com (Kathy Harris)
Free your mind and your ass will follow!