Trip Report: Warm SW climbing (J.T., R.R., H.T.)
Nate
written it with rec.climbing in mind, which means it is filled with
recommended routes, beta, shameless self-promotion :-), etc.
Contents:
J-Tree, rec.climbers
Whitney region, unknown gem
Red Rock, the choice of a new generation
Hueco Tanks
Quick Reflection on Trip: Meeting rec.climbers, gym vs outdoor shock.
The start of my trip came to light when I replied to Mattie
Thompson's partner request. We were to connect up in J-Tree. As it
also turned out, there were several other rec.climbers staying in Indian
Cove during my first weekend there. Since Mattie arrived late ( broke
car key off in trunk lock... slept in car... !! ) I spent my first day
climbing with Mike Rawdow(?) ( rawdowmg@aol) in Indian Cove. I also got
to meet Andy Gale, brother of Steven Gale, and several other San Diego
area internet climbers. Mattie, who was my intended partner for the
week, was injured and could not climb. I quickly found other partners
and set off to do the classics. I must say that Mattie is a very
interesting and fun person to have around.
Best routes:
Figures on a Landscape
Illusion Dweller
Spider Line
Best Food:
Thai Restaurant, Sunday all you can eat **
Mario's, next to Stater Bros. Italian. Monday eve all you can eat.
***
Other Valuable beta:
Wall Mart has a bad crate pile from which you can scam firewood.
Cheapest showers are in the RV camp in 29 palms for $1. Shower fast as
the hot H20 tank is pretty small.
Whitney region:
This place is awesome. Go there and climb, but don't tell too many
of your friends... I was very surprised by the area. Nobody talks
about the High Sierra. The granite is steep and very clean. Snow had
been down for over 1.5 weeks, yet mine were only the third set of prints
leading up the main trail. I only spent 2 days here, mostly gathering
information. I took 3/4 day and hiked up the standard Whitney trail and
then to Lower Boy Scout lake, and Lone Pine lake. The summit was
getting shrouded in clouds by 10am daily and a car-car trip up a good
route was looking like too long of a day for a cloudy summit. I
suspect a good bit of loose snow was gathering up there as well. I'll
be back. Harding route on Keeler Needle looks good. If someone knows
where I can get a topo for the route, let me know. East face, a
Fifty-Classic, looks good too. Lots of potential for new routes...
Red Rock:
I arrived around dinner time. I immediately met some people and
the plan was for Crimson Chrysalis the next morning. The route is
pretty good. It is the only one I did. It is rather easy. If you can
lead 7's or 8's in J.T., and are efficient, you should be able to bag
the route. The vast quantity of bolts on the route definitely reduced
the adventure. Actually , I am a little sour about the place because
upon returning from the route, I found my van had been broken into. My
alpine pack + contents still packed from Whitney had been taken. I know
the weasel who took it could not have been a real climber because they
left a vintage copy of Fifty-Classics behind. They must have tossed it
aside as they went for my first aid kit...
I also wonder about an out-of-town climber who comes in, writes a
guidebook, and names an easier, blocky finish to the famous Rainbow Wall
after himself; the "Swainbow Wall"
On top of that, the park was closed. Red Rock, IMHO, is
definitely the choice of a new generation. I'll go back for Levitation
29, but that is about it. But, I was only bummed out for a day or two.
I picked up the guidebook for Hueco, read Sherman's great intro
chapters, and I was psyched on climbing again. Sherman's style and feel
for the climbing world stands in stark contrast to Swain's and what I
found at Red Rock. I headed out for Hueco.
Valuable Beta:
Oak Creek camping is a rip-off at $10/night, no facilities. Sleep
in the desert about 1.5 miles toward LV from Calico basin. Just as you
cross the bridge, head off into the desert, find a depression and set
up. The athletic facility at the state university has showers that can
be easily accessed for free. If you are one of those paying types, they
accept money too ($3 or $4 for a day pass). Two shops listed in the
Swain guide don't exist at the printed address ( I have the latest
edition ) Go to Desert Rock Sports on Charleston. The only bulletin
board for the area that I could find is there, a 20 minute drive from
the crags. Hueco is 11 hours away, and is warmer.
Hueco Tanks:
This is definitely where I had the most fun on my trip. I had
never considered myself much of a boulderer, but I ended up having a lot
of fun with it. I started out alone doing warmups on some sunny
boulders. I then did Cakewalk and came down something called Left Side.
Next I was off to the Mushroom boulder where I met up with 3 ladies from
LA, and Tim & Patty from City Rock gym. They were all really motivated
and friendly, and were very familiar with the area. I spent the rest
of the week climbing with them. Two of the LA girls, Cindy and Liz, did
the Zodiac in October. Sherri, whom I climbed with most of the time,
was pretty honed too. Tim was a sight to watch climb. Although injured
on a V10, he was still doing V5 with seemingly little effort. Patty is
an employee at City Rock gym. I had a blast. I climbed hard all of my
7 days there. I was really psyched by the area and the people I climbed
with. The weather was clear and sunny in the high 50s every day.
While drawing up ( as opposed to "racking up" ) for Window Pain, I
met Chris Herzog(?) of rec.climbing. Very nice guy. I think he
recognized me by my name, or perhaps from a picture on the net.
Apparently some flames had been passed between us. Immediately I
thought I would be the one apologizing, but such was not the case. We
both had a good laugh. (!)
Best Routes:
Boulders-
Ghetto Simulator
Finish to Snake Belly
Warm-up Roof
3-star arete
45 degree wall.
Roped-
Indecent Exposure (9+)
Window Pain (10+)
Sea of Holes (9+/10-)
Max Headroom (11)
Rainbow Bridge (11R)
Best Food:
Follow the star system in Sherman's book.
Valuable Beta:
First, buy the Sherman guidebook. For what you get, it is a steal
at $20.
Camping is cheapest in the desert. Take a right as you exit the
gate. Much quieter than Pete's, although far less surreal (plus you
stand less chance of catching something). Pete's is a strange place.
Best to take your shower in the evening when the line is shorter.
Showers are in the campground, and come with the normal fees. Try to
snag the gate lock combination off a friend in the campground so you
don't have to get stressed about the gate closing.
Don't miss the $2 movie theater. A first-rate theater with 12
current release films every evening can be found at the SW corner of the
intersection of Lee Travino and I-10.
The park fees are very taxing, and the staff are often too confused
to explain it to you. This is really the only drawback to the area.
Read the guidebook and decide if you want to get a Texas Conservation
Pass to perhaps save some money. They no longer give the student ID
discount (!) I was never asked for a receipt while in the park.
Whatever you do, taking care of the place is most important.
Trip Reflections:
Meeting rec.climbers was a strange experience. People are not as
they seem on the net. I was quite often surprised. One might think
they have a feel for someone by reading a few dozen of their news posts
and e-mail. Nope. No gossip here. The digital community you are in
now as you read this is very unique indeed.
My first "harder" route in J-Tree was Figures on a Landscape. I
clipped the first bolt on the first pitch. I then looked up, the second
bolt was hidden out of sight, and the following bolt was a long ways
away over hard rock. I thought it was going to be a big runout. This
is a sustained 120 ft pitch, 10b, 5 bolts (typical JT sandbag). I tried
to suck it in and go, but I stopped and came back after only about 5 ft
above the first bolt. (about the spacing in a gym) This really should
have been easy for me, but it had been since September since I had
climbed something outside. I ended up passing the lead to my partner.
I took the second lead (10a-b, 1 bolt) and felt a little redeemed. This
happens to me every spring. Here in Minnesota we are stuck in a gym all
winter. Gosh!, I thought, it had only been 3 months. Yet again I am
surprised how tame the gym is. Every year I lose my lead head. This
year I lost it fast, even after doing what I thought were several bold
climbs toward the end of summer. Less than three weeks later I got a
lot of it back, feeling Sea of Holes was well bolted, and keeping it
together on the Rainbow Bridge. So.... if you are a gym climber looking
to get outside, watch out...
Thanks for reading. Hope you enjoyed. Questions to e-mail.
--
Nathanial Beckwith (H) 612-698-5917 - St. Paul, MN
University of Minnesota (W) 612-625-7559 - ME 308 Computer Lab
Mechanical and Industrial Engineering-Operations Research
http://www.umn.edu/nlhome/m056/beck0238/