best top roping at the Gunks??????
Jeffrey Krick
hi
i was wondering what was considered good top roping areas for 5.10 and under
at the gunks??? also are there any good guides in the area to learn to pace
gear from??
thanks for the advice
jeff
jk0...@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Faerie 1
roped and keep one busy for seemingly endless amount of time. However,
you might find yourself waiting in line for most of them (seriously). I
found that it helps to drag along a pair or extra, extra long runners to
set up some things that are normally not top ropable (i.e. Crowberry
Ridge).
- Bill
Michael Langdon
e area to >learn to pace gear from??
>
>thanks for the advice
>jeff
Hey Jeff,
To back up Bill's post, the top ropes that I have done are all in the
Trapps. I spent this past Saturday top roping with a friend, who up until
now has only climbed in gyms. The climbs we did were Little Rascals 5.9-,
The Brat 5.7 and Handy Andy 5.7+. All three are climbs I would recommend
doing and are the first set of climbs on your left, walking from the
parking lot at the Trapps. Three other good climbs which are good in that
area and I believe you can TR are Laurel 5.6, Rhodedendron 5.6 and Clover
5.7+?. These are located just down the road from Handy Andy and easy to
spot because the Ranger parks his truck there and is usually there all
day.
As far as guides goes, I used a guide last summer to do some triple
pitch classics, his name is John Dunn and he works for Mountain Skills, I
would highly reccomend him if you were looking for a guide. Write me back
if you would like his number.
Mike
Larry H White
>
> hi
>
> i was wondering what was considered good top roping areas for 5.10 and under
> gear from??
>
> thanks for the advice
> jeff
Yes, go to the Uberfall area. I have managed to set up TR's for the
following Climbs:
The Brat(6)
Little Rascal(9-)
Katzenjammer(7)
Handy Andy(7, but a dangerous TR)
Keyhole(2) don't bother
Black Fly(5)
69(3)
Short Job(4)
The huge roof between 69 & Short Job (7)
Hertie Gerdie(6 sandbag)
Dirty Gerdie (9-)
Red Cabbage(9)
Bunny(4) solo, long climb
Laurel(7), Junior(9), Rodedendron(6), Clover(7) all require you to solo a
5.0. I prefer to lead Laurel or Roddy or get someone to let me TR before
they break down.
Walter Middy(8)
Squiggles(4), also a 10 via Squiggles Direct
Kens Crack(7)
Boston(4)
Several others on Kens Crack buttress
Eyesore(6)
Baby(6) first pitch after leading Easu Overhang(2), note that 2 ropes are
needed to rap unless you intend to complete EO or Baby on the lead
Sone of Easy O first pitch(8), as above
Bob Wu
up by climbing up Radcliffe (5.0, or 4th class). You will
probably need some nuts/etc to set these up. Similarly, you
could probably set up Thin Slabs and Sente by going up on the
right hand side.
Rawdomg
<Larry_...@cv.hp.com> writes:
>Yes, go to the Uberfall area. I have managed to set up TR's for the
>following Climbs:
>(Larry recommends several TRs, including:)
>Eyesore(6)
Just to the right of Eyesore is Trapped Like a Rat (5.7). Scramble up the
chimney/ramp 100 ft to the rt to set up. An awkward move through a
shallow corner leads to a stance below a wonderful, SPOOKY step over a
ceiling. Welcome to the Gunks! Note also, this climb sees relatively
little traffic. (Ooops, now everyone knows).
Mike
Peter RLD
great - they have shown me a number of good toproping spots and they
provide a leader course in which you climb on a toprope but you also pull
a second rope which you clip into protection that you place as you go.
When you get to the top, the guide descends with you and discusses each
piece you placed and whether or not it would have saved your life.
Peter Lloyd-Davies
(203) 861-2000
IceNE
IMHO top-roping lead climbs at the Gunks is extremely lame and pathetic
and brands the perpetrater as a total poser wannabe. (Probably a
Yuppie!;-) Lead something you are capable of *climbing* instead. Or polish
your No Fear stickers.
Mark Dixon
Burlington, VT
Nothing better to do...
Brian Cairns
I know you're only trying to be helpful, but how about that sense of
adventure and people figuring things out for themselves. Its getting
to the point now that the only climbs you can get on at the Gunks at the
weekend are hard 9s and above without standing in a queue. Please don't
suggest people top-rope classics like P38 and Stirrup Trouble. If they
can figure it out for themselves so be it, but there are a lot of NYers
read this newsgroup and now I expect to see people TRing those climbs next
weekend.
If you want to top-rope try the Red Cabbage block, there's 9 and 10 versions
and it only really makes sense as a top-rope problem/solo boulder problem.
Just to the left of Nosedive on the detached block.
Donald Scott Macron
: Just curious to hear what others think...
: IMHO top-roping lead climbs at the Gunks is extremely lame and pathetic
: and brands the perpetrater as a total poser wannabe. (Probably a
: Yuppie!;-) Lead something you are capable of *climbing* instead. Or polish
: your No Fear stickers.
I kinda think that climbing is about doing whatever the hell you please,
and ignoring idiots who pass judgement on your activities. If I wanted
anyone elses' opinion about how and where to climb, I'd ask them. Since I
don't, I don't. Seems like you're a bit self-righteous, to me...
I personally think that ice-dancing and synchronized swimming are moronic
perversions of sports, but who am I to tell the people who do it that?
As long as I don't lose my pool-time or ice-time...
You don't own the rocks -- don't bother blathering on how *others* should
climb. Mind your own business, if you don't like top-roping. You'll be
just as ignored, and far less likely to get stuff thrown at you.
Rawdomg
writes:
>IMHO top-roping lead climbs at the Gunks is extremely lame and pathetic
>and brands the perpetrater as a total poser wannabe.
Just a comment here. Every line I've ever seen being TRed at the Gunks
could be considered a lead climb. I mean, ALL the routes at the Gunks,
with the possible exception of a VERY few 5.12-ish X variations, are
recorded as having been lead. Does the fact that somebody once led the
route (eg Jacobs Ladder, a totally unprotected 30' 5.10) make it a "lead
climb"?
I hope this doesn't start a prolonged debate -Mark was being sarcastic,
and I'm being trivial.
(There is a big difference between TRing a classic lead like Horseman, and
something like Red Cabbage, which is led maybe once every 10 years.)
Mike
Ghiz
I've led that route at least 5 times in the last 10 years....so I guess
Red Cabbage has been led maybe 5 times in the last 10 years ;) It takes
great gear...
HMAN
Mkword
TR P-38 and Stirrup Trouble. You can't set a
TR that will follow the line of Stirrup or P-38
(they angle off dramatically) so why bother?
They are classic routes for leading. Leave
them open.
Here's some other suggestions for TRs:
1. Mental Block (below carriage road near Bunny)
2. Pebbles (friction climb near Roddy)
3. Slightly Roddy (5.11a roof -- you climb Roddy to set it up)
4. Shitface (Near Trapps -- climb Roseland or the first 2 pitches
of Gelsa (5.2) to Roseland belay.
5. Wegetables (I don't want to encourage people
top-roping this too much, but if you are desperate and
no one is around who wants to lead it ....... you walk onto
the ledge from the left of the cliff.)
6. Tennish Anyone? (can be set-up the same way as
Wegetables.)
If anyone is interested in Gunks TRs 5.10 and UP, I got
the skinny.
Paul Bernhard Tieslau
Virtually all the climbs at the gunks can be done on tr. The Grand Traverse Ledge!
I spent 2 weeks straight camping on the sideroad below the Trapps 1.5 years ago by
myself. When I couldn't find a partner or just wanted some privacy I would rope solo an
easy route and then tr 10 climbs to the left and 10 climbs to the right. I got to see a
lot of territory I never would try leading. The gunks was awesome for this.
Cheyenne Wills
In <4lmdil$o...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, ic...@aol.com (IceNE) writes:
>Just curious to hear what others think...
>Yuppie!;-) Lead something you are capable of *climbing* instead. Or polish
>your No Fear stickers.
>Burlington, VT
>Nothing better to do...
Toproping has a long standing tradition at the Gunks, even by some of the
more notable Gunkies.
Most of the climbs immediately around the Uberfall are top roped.
As I stated in another post... if you don't like what someone else is doing, go
somewhere else. Alittle walking at the Gunks can put you into some very
neat places. One of the more enjoyable 5.9 (I think that is how hard it was
before the hold broke off) was MacReppy -- the whole way at the south end
of NearTrapps (it is now 5.11 I believe). As a 5.11 it still is a nice climb! At the
other end go and find Wegatables at the north end of the Trapps. Go exploring!
Cheyenne
Mkword
>Toproping has a long standing tradition at the Gunks,
>even by some of the more notable Gunkies.
True. But top-roping became acceptable when the number
of safe leads at the current top edge where few and far between.
When climbers started to hit 5.11+ and 5.12 in the Gunks, most
routes had poor to terrible protection.
Then came the brief bolt wars of the late Eighties. Top-roping
was already established, but it was around the late Eighties
that top-roping was widely accepted as a totally legit type
of climbing in the Gunks.
>>Most of the climbs immediately around the Uberfall are top roped.<<
Yeah. But any climber should try and avoid top-roping commonly
lead climbs ... unless it is a slow day ... or they are willing to let
people lead through. On the Gerdie block, almost no one leads
anymore. Most Uberfall climbs have become de riguer top-ropes. BUt some
climbs are good leads and you should not hog a line
all day with a TR on a leadbale route.
>As I stated in another post... if you don't like what someone
>else is doing, go somewhere else. Alittle walking at the
>Gunks can put you into some very neat places.
Very true. Especially if you can lead solid 5.10.
>One of the more enjoyable 5.9 (I think that is how hard it was
>before the hold broke off) was MacReppy -- the whole way
>at the south end of NearTrapps (it is now 5.11 I believe).
>As a 5.11 it still is a nice climb!
MacReppy used to be a 5.8. As a 5.11 is still good, but not as
good as it used to be. It's not a great 5.11. It's a one move
boulder problem. Weird, thin. MainLine 5.8 next to it is better.
Mnay good south Near Trapps routes to climb. Grim and Tonic,
Ground Control, Live and Let Die. I can't for the life of me figure out
why MacRepy gets three stars in Swain's book.
>At the other end go and find Wegatables at the north end of the >Trapps.
Go exploring!
Yes, go exploring. There are so many good climbs to be done
outside of the first 200 yards of the Uberfall.
Next to Wegetables is Tennish Anyone?
The trick to the Gunks is getting good. And leading.
The more routes you can lead, the more routes you
can top-rope.
George Schlossnagle
In article <4lo8h3$b...@newsbf02.news.aol.com> raw...@aol.com (Rawdomg) writes:
<Stuff about toproping standard leads vs. non standard leads deleted>
(There is a big difference between TRing a classic lead like Horseman, and
something like Red Cabbage, which is led maybe once every 10 years.)
Just as a side note, my partner and I led Red Cabbage last weekend. Just
a note- I actually fully agree with you. However, it did suck that Birdland
was tied up with TRers for most the day.
George "I have nothing clever to say here" Schlossnagle
Jeff Elison
Mkword (mkw...@aol.com) wrote:
: Yeah. But any climber should try and avoid top-roping commonly
: lead climbs ... unless it is a slow day ... or they are willing to let
: people lead through. On the Gerdie block, almost no one leads
: anymore.
Dirty Gerdie was my first lead fall, back in 1977! Glad I didn't TR it.
Later I went back for the redpoint ;-)
Sorry about the waste of bandwidth, but yowzahh we're talking OLD memories!
Mort (who is now on about his 2,000th lead fall)
Bryan Cunitz
IceNE wrote:
>
> Just curious to hear what others think...
> IMHO top-roping lead climbs at the Gunks is extremely lame and pathetic
> and brands the perpetrater as a total poser wannabe. (Probably a
> Yuppie!;-) Lead something you are capable of *climbing* instead. Or polish
> your No Fear stickers.
> Mark Dixon
> Burlington, VT
> Nothing better to do...
OK.. here is my opinion about top-roping.
I personally rather see everyone leading routes. It is faster, more elegant, and
just tradtionally better. But for those who cannot lead, or cannot afford the gear
to lead, top-roping is the best way to improve your climbing skills in a !!!SAFE!!!
environment and is a careful environment for practicing anchor systems. My one
problem with top-toping is that it allows people to hang out on a route all day
trying until they can climb it, which limits everyone else so that they can't climb
it.
If anyone is going to top-rope. PLEASE... 1. Be safe 2. don't hog the climb and
3. realize that this is not TRUE rockclimbing.
just my opinion... if you don't like it... whatever.
--
+---------------------------+---------------------------------------+
| Bryan Cunitz | They were typical mountaineers- |
| 6619 Colby College | outcasts from society, discontented |
| Waterville, ME 04901 | with the world, comforting themselves |
| (207) 877-4948 | in the solitude of nature by the |
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| Talk: 137.146.145.35 | -Clarence King |
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Mkword
>Dirty Gerdie was my first lead fall, back in 1977! Glad
>I didn't TR it. Later I went back for the redpoint ;-)
Dirty Gertie is an excellent little lead.
Sorry to hear there are people camping out with TRs
on stuff like Birdland .... especially when Birdland is
so leadable ... and especially when Birdland is the route
you need to lead to set up the TR on Slammin the Salmon
and Bird Brain.
Here's actually a sacriligeous but thoroughly fun thing to
do ... and it's not too big a transgression because this
route is often devoid of climbers ... though it is one of the
best 5.10s anywhere.
You can actually TR Fat City Direct with two ropes.
But you didn't hear it from me!
Reto Hartmann
> Mkword (mkw...@aol.com) wrote:
>
> : Yeah. But any climber should try and avoid top-roping commonly
> : lead climbs ... unless it is a slow day ... or they are willing to let
> : people lead through. On the Gerdie block, almost no one leads
> : anymore.
>
> Dirty Gerdie was my first lead fall, back in 1977! Glad I didn't TR it.
> Later I went back for the redpoint ;-)
>
> Sorry about the waste of bandwidth, but yowzahh we're talking OLD memories!
>
> Mort (who is now on about his 2,000th lead fall)
Wow Mort, Your first lead and it was on the Gerdie!! Mine was about 100
yards away Black Fly, talk about sandbag, back in those days it was 5.4
now it, up to 5.5!! :-) I even got the rope jamed in the crack as I was
pulling up to the belay, had to reverse the roof to free the rope. Since
then I have never jamed the rope on lead. Good fun, those days in the
gunks.
Cheers,
Reto
--
Reto Hartmann CPO/ISREC
Jeff Elison
Reto Hartmann (rhar...@isrec.unil.ch) wrote:
: >
: > Dirty Gerdie was my first lead fall, back in 1977! Glad I didn't TR it.
: > Later I went back for the redpoint ;-)
: > Mort (who is now on about his 2,000th lead fall)
: Wow Mort, Your first lead and it was on the Gerdie!!
First LEAD FALL actually. My first lead was Three Pines.
Mort
Mkword
>>: Wow Mort, Your first lead and it was on the Gerdie!!
>First LEAD FALL actually. My first lead was Three Pines.
>Mort
My first lead fall was on P1 of Enduro Man. Just 1 foot from craterville.
Hoo-boy!
Should have TRed that one first!!!
-Nick
Sandie Marchesssault
Don't be such a fag Falacci man.
-Brooks
